Agree that is not cost effective if you are trying to run a business... Disagree if you are just at home sorting your own car... As I explained in another comment... Thank you for watching and for your comment!
@@tam1381 I repaired one yesterday on a Peugeot 407 rear caliper. Piston was fine just the rubber dust cover was torn. New caliper £120 new boot/repair kit £6. I think being £114 richer sounds better to me.
I would have removed the handbrake part of the caliper also, you need an special longnose circlip pliers for that job but there can get rusty also and seize. Anyhow, good job! 👍
They were not seized... otherwise I would have obviously done it as well... Actually, that part was working quite freely if I recall correctly... Thank you for watching and for your comment, appreciated! 👍👍👍
This is what happens after 10 years being cheap and doing no maintenance. Brakefluid needs to be changed at least every 2-3 years as it absorbes water. When it does it will cause rust from the inside of the brake caliper and it will get stuck. So, change the brakefluid every 2-3 years, change the discs and pads in time and this will never happen. How did this car ever pass the MOT, this is an absolute fail for MOT.
Nice video, thanks for the upload. I have one where it neither winds in clockwise nor unwinds counterclockwise with the rewind tool. Do you think it's easier to get the piston moving once off the car ? Would that be my best bet ?
You did a fine job . It is actually an easy repair and saves the customer some money . Dealerships won´t do this because there is way more money to be made selling a new calliper . I am all about making money but changing a calliper where a rep. kit does the job is a bit over the top so I change a fair share of pistons and dust covers while changing pads .
Masterfully executed. Whenever you're unsure whether to make a video or not, ALWAYS make the video :) Thanks i really enjoyed watching it and learnt alot as usual.
Another fine fix that makes a great training video for a competent home mechanic attempting something similar. Now as to not charging for the full service kit..might I suggest you charge full price and offer the spare parts to the owner..maybe they’ll take them , maybe they’ll leave them but you are not out of pocket. ..either way looking forward to the next fix.
Yes... And as explained the way I found it easier, was by removing the piston, install the seal on the caliper and then insert the piston... That's all... 👍👍👍
Easily possible. Parts worn close to breakage. Shit and grime in brake lines and add really harsh conditions like road salt and that damage is possible within year.
@@LMAutoRepairs My part of the world they are expensive ~$20 each piston and prefer to buy new caliper for $40 each…. That’s why I try to repair the piston if possible. Can you share the repair kit cat# and price?
As an example... www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283015499349?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=EeNOHQI-R3G&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Ov28jkvyTx2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Good video as always. Interesting to see how it works internally. New (or allegedly new) caliper on eBay is about £40. Kit looks to be £20. Is it worth the time? Be interested to hear your thoughts.
I would say for a DIYer... definitely! For a business, probably the labour of doing this would overcome the price of the whole caliper... but if the business has time, I don't see why not... Cheaper for the customer, same quality result... and an happy customer, is a customer that is more likely to return...😋 Thank you for watching and for your comment!
I wonder if every time the rear pads are replaced on minis - with that type of twisting piston - it would be worth unseating the dust cover, relubricating the groove where it sits in the piston? If seems most of the damage is caused by the twisting action of the piston on the boot which then allows dirt into inner seal.
Possibly no a bad idea... That said, this twisting movement, should only takes place when rewinding the piston... During normal operation should not twist... this obviously if everything is moving freely... Which again takes you to your suggestion of keeping everything lubricated... 👍👍👍 Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Shouldn't... but again, and as you said, if everything is lubricated even if he has to slightly twist, would be ok... That "screw" in the caliper, is for the hand brake... when twists pushes the piston out... if the piston twists at the same time as the "screw" then will be no forward movement... Hope it makes sense...🙄
Is that an O ring or seal? Love watching you and learning. I realized I hadn't seen you for awhile and found that you tube put you at the bottom, so I wasnt receiving new videos from you!
I have the exact same problem on a 2010 Mini so this is just what I needed to see. I will probably purchase a rebuilt caliper but I admire your skills in using the rebuild kit. Thanks for make this video, very interesting and informative. Also, now I know what the inside of the piston assembly looks like. It really does screw in! 😁
I’d of just put a new brake calipers on it would of been quicker and easier for nearly the same price and as for copper grease on brakes there is nothing wrong with it it has been used for years and has never caused any issues
@@LMAutoRepairs there is no such thing as a standard procedure in craftsmanships even a nail can be hammered in a plank many different ways... haha ;) Cheerz and thanks for your fine videos :)
