If the U-Tube had Academy Awards for best video this would be a contender. No fancy 30 second graphic introduction followed by another 30 seconds of "I'm going to tell you what I'm going to tell you in the video." No out of focus, juggling camera angles. Perfect. Good Job!
Really? Because he straight up lied about the difference in price and why. He tells you for 130$ you can do exactly what the Mr cool pre charged lines do but then he totally fails to mention that the refrigerant is gonna up the cost to what or more the price of the Mr cool lines are. You were deceived by his advice.
Sorry J M, but that’s completely false. There are no extra steps in this process besides what’s shown in this video. You don’t need additional refrigerant. When you attach and open the lines, the coolant that is stored in the condenser is let into the lines. If I’m wrong about that then my mini split is a miracle because it works amazingly well without having added any separate refrigerant. Just because some setups require that, don’t assume they all do and that I’m a lier.
I researched ductless mini splits for months when I was looking at replacing my RUUD central air. If you have a smart electric meter on your home go look at your KWH usage for an entire year. You will see that your heat-pump was sucking electricity all winter as well as summer. We live in FL so winters are not bad but the heat-pump was still running up the electric bill in winter. My electric averaged $300 month all year. Long story short I installed an 18K ductless in the living room / kitchen area, a 12K in the master bedroom and a 9K in the guest bedroom, all separate units and all inverters. I did all the work myself for less than $3K. This is for a 1650 sq. ft. house and those 3 mini splits are cooling the house better than the central air ever did. The best part is we can turn off the units that we are not using. At night when we go to bed we turn off the 18K in the living room and close the bedroom door. My electric bill has gone down from $10 - $16 a day to $4 -$6 a day even in August. I cannot report on winter yet because we just installed them this summer. The smaller units are using about $22 a month in electric and the bigger 18K is using about $25 month. Ductless mini splits are the best thing I could have done to this house. My old RUUD R-22 system is turned off but I kept it in case we need it for an emergency back-up system. Something I learned: Ductless mini splits are subject to damage from surges and local utility outages so I put a "whole house" surge arrestor in my main panel to help protect them. BTW good video!
I installed a 18K Mr. Cool unit 2 years ago in my garage shop. I couldn't be happier and now spend more time in the garage than in the house. Even when it's 100 degrees outside, I can maintain low 70's in the garage (***note: garage has insulated walls, ceiling, and doors). As for pros and cons......here are 3 I wish I knew before installing Pros: 1) Adding the unit actually made me much more productive. Not only can I spend more time in the woodshop, but also have the perfect place now for car repair or home repair projects. 2) The mini split unit uses very little electricity. I run it all the time, and my electric bill is maybe only 10-20% higher than normal. 3) The heating function is almost as nice as the cooling function. I had almost bought a unit that just cools to save some money. Glad I didn't. In the winter when it's 30 degrees outside, I am able to hold the shop at......you guessed it.....low 70's. Cons: 1) The most difficult part of the whole installation was shaping the copper lineset against the wall and inside the lineset cover. I kinked mine and had to get it repaired. 2) The condensate line can be a bit of a nuisance if you have no place good to drain it. Having it constantly leak over a concrete slab leads to algae build up. 3) Unless you spend more money to get a multihead unit, the cooling and heating can be uneven if your shop has an odd shape. I have to run a small fan to get the air to equalize to the far side of the garage.
@@jaandel1 Not sure exactly because I didn't have permanent HVAC before. I upgraded from a small rolling portable Whynter AC unit. The electricity usage between the two is about the same, but the results are like a night and day difference
Bad thing about pre charged is you can’t the line sets. So basically if you have 25’ of lineset but only need 10’ then you have 15’ of extra lineset that you gotta coil up and just becomes a eye sore.
I put in two pioneer units in last year and just noticed yesterday that one wasn't blowing air like it should so I shined a light and it was totally clogged with dust and mildew. I never thought to look at the blower drum because i wash the filters pretty regular, but keep an eye on that. After cleaning it, it made a huge difference.
Very no-nonsense, good writing and delivery. Practical, low-key yet still professional direction and editing with a touch of a sense of humour. Thanks for the informative vid!
I have two mini-splits now. The first was a Mr. Cool, but the second one is a Senville 9,000 BTU unit. I saved quite a bit over the Mr. Cool model, and was able to do a no-hassle self install, thanks to watching your very thorough installation video! I even found a perfectly operating, professional-grade line-gauge set just lying in the middle of the street prior to buying the Senville unit. I was vacillating on whether or not to buy another Mr. Cool, but took the discovery of the line-gauge set as divine guidance to move forward with the self install.
@@flyingjoed it was more inside one of the side tool boxes, so it did take a little effort to make it "fall off the truck". No, it was lying in the road. I also looked around for a service truck the night I found it, and talked the next day to the HVAC service people who had been working at the house next door all week to see if it was theirs. No takers though.
As an HVAC installer in primarily mini and multi splits, this is one of the best reviews and intros to high efficiency heat pumps yet…and he didn’t even mention most mini splits today(2023) use half the power of a window unit and three times less than a central ducted system.
I just looked, and for a 12,000 BTU 17 seer mini-split, it's draw was the same as as 12,000 BTU window unit - 8.5 amp, but the mini-split went up to 20 amps as a possible draw! (going to need to dehumidify and somewhat cool a workshop/storage building)
You are my kind of guy. You people help us educate ourselves and I appreciate your effort very much. Thank you for that. I also bought all tools and learned to do all the job. I even have nitrogen tank and brazing equipment. For comparison: My neighbour installed 12kW heat pump and it cost him around 13.000€. I bought two 7kW inverter air condition units, 850€ each, copper pipes for exchanger (around 450€), nitrogen cylinder with regulators and brazing torch (about 250€). I invested some time in researching how to do it and connected it to an existing 2000 liter buffer tank. So it cost me approximately 2.500€ for 14kW heat pump. That is some real saving. But that's not all yet. Since I bought two split systems, I had two surplus internal units, since I only used the electronics from them. Then I got the idea... If I let water thru and start the fan, it should heat. So I installed one unit in my workshop and connected it to existing central heating. And it not only works, it works beyond my expectations. Also you can buy a "Smart Wi-fi remote control" for 10€ and control all your IR devices with it. This thing is so under-priced and useful, I can recommend it. I'm here to help if anyone is interested. Stay safe and warm. 💖
We have a sunroom that is very difficult to heat and cool. We tried numerous solutions and none really worked. Finally had a mini split installed and it works great.
Bout to be doing this myself. Building a 16x12 shop from scratch. Finished the subfloor today and starting framing my walls tomorrow. I've been a project manager for the last couple years so it's not exactly fresh on my mind. Pretty sure it'll all come back to me as I go. My wife is telling me just to do a window unit but like you said, the mini split is so much better and quiet and with a line set cover, it looks pretty too. I'll check out your other videos so it'll be fresh on my mind when I tackle that. Thanks for posting this brother I appreciate it
I was surprised how low cost the Ductless units are at Amazon. I bought a 120 volt 12,000 Btu unit for my nephew's rental house, and actually mounted the indoor coil to a TV cabinet, and ran the tubing out the window, plug it into a 120 volt plug in the living room, and it is totally portable, so he can take it with him when he moves! I cut a 2XX4 that is the height of the window, and drilled holes for the tubing to go outside in the 2X4. Then sealed the window to keep out heat and bugs. He had electric 1,500 watt heaters in each room, and bill was huge last winter, and about $75 less each month this winter! Cooling is great, and it is nearly silent! It took us about 4 hours to install, I have been installing HVAC since 1984, so it was piece of cake for me!
For our shop we run the table saw, compressor and small shaper (which we sold) off of 220v. Those units just run much better than 110v devices. I'm always surprised how many home shops don't have 220v available.
240v amperage is half, thus moves easier through the wire which reduces losses due to resistance. The double amperage of lesser 120v moving through wiring have greater losses due to heat. Also, your devices were probably more powerful.
You do know you can "borrow" the vacuum pump and gages from most auto parts stores. (You pay a deposit, use them, return them! Usually no charge.) Also, you can cut the long line set and get rid of the "coil" behind the unit. You need a flare tool or have an AC guy cut them before you vacuum the lines. Makes a cleaner install and looks better as well. Nice video, thanks for the wifi tip. Mine had an available option to add one inside the unit. Worth the $$.
Just wanted to add you *should* cut out the excess line set. It can cause a trap, just like a p-trap that keeps oil from getting back to the compressor. I don't think our flare tools are special, you should be able to find the flair tool online as well. I do commercial hvac, and if it were me in this fella's shoes I'd stalk a commercial hvac van and ask if he's interested in doing the flairs and pulling the vac, or knows someone who is. Residential hvac guys can get in trouble for doing residential side work, commercial guys generally don't have to deal with that. Might cost you as much as buying the tools yourself, or just a bit less, but then you don't have to deal with the pump and gauges you've only used once, and will probably never use again. ...unless you're trying to start a new side hussle, then by all means go for it.
The reason for the "extra" coil of lineset is because its charged. If you cut it youll loose your refrigerant. Otherwise completely agree about how sloppy it looks.
@@jamese9888 Just FYI the charge is generally in the COMPRESSOR not the inside unit! Thus I think you can cut them and not lose charge. Once you open the valves on the compressor the gas goes through the full line set. At least on the unit I installed from Panasonic.
I think something else to keep in mind is the vacuum pump and gauges are the same equipment you need to work on your cars AC so it can be something worth having around. We did two mini-splits on our house this spring in Arizona and are loving them. I plan to install more after the summer for next year. Its so much nicer being able to cool the rooms we want to use vs the whole house when its this hot out.
@@151mcx Gotta wait until just walking outside doesn't cause 3rd degree burns! Just saw our July bill and its running about $100-$150 less than it would have been without these units.
Nice work. I did the same thing and switched the whole house over to three ductless mini splits. I did all the work myself including pumping a vacuum on the lines and flaring the line-sets. The worst part really was running the electric, but I was an electrician for 12 years in the military. A note on efficiency: Our electric bill here in FL went from $10-$16 a day in August to $4-$6 a day. I am expecting a drop of 1/2 or better in electric utilities. Our central a/c was an old RUUD unit R-22 and I don't think it even had an efficiency rating. Like you said..... we love it that we can turn units off and on in rooms that we are not using. At night we turn off the 18K in the living room and just the run the 12K mini split in the master bdrm and close the door. I did some calculations and it looks like our mini splits are pulling from $22 - $25 a month in electricity each. That is a HUGE cost savings. I would say installing these a/c units was the best thing I have done to this house so far.
One other thing to consider is the warranty. I purchased a Senville 9000 btu mini split and it was $800 and I also purchased a 3rd gen Mr. Cool DIY version. The Senville is supposed to be installed by a license HVAC contractor but I purchased the vacuum pump to do it myself. By doing this it voided my warranty. Both of my mini splits failed and the Mr. Cool was the only one that was covered under warranty. If you don’t use the DIY version, I would also recommend that you redo the flare to ensure a proper seal.
My Senville has started icing up after less than a year, more than likely a small refrigerant leak. But since I installed it myself, I have no warranty. A service call would more than make up the difference of a DIY Mr. cool, and Senville. When I purchased my Senville I also bought an extra 25-pound tank of 410a anticipating such a leak. The warranty is a big deal and a big roll of the dice.
@@greco2189just for future reference, Pioneer, which is almost the same price as Senville, WILL honor their 5 year warranty on a DIY install. I confirmed this by calling their customer service. Also other reviews on Pioneer have confirmed this as well.
I Bought a Cooper & Hunter 12000 btu , 19 seer on Amazon for $1079.00 ! 5 year warranty on the unit , 7 year on the compressor ! But here's a additional perk I look at buying from Amazon . If you'll log onto " Smile Amazon " instead of just " Amazon " ,,, 0.05 % of the purchase, goes to " St. Jude " Children Hospital" ! So I know it doesn't sound like alot ,,, But $21.00 of that purchase went to help a child with Cancer ! And even though that donation goes to them from " Amazon " instead of My yearly donation to them ,,,,, who really cares as long as they get it to help a child !
It's worth noting at this juncture there are a lot of 12kw 115v plug in mini splits these days. So for a single room system, you absolutely can just plug it into a standard outlet now, if that will provide for your needs.
I think you mean 12K BTU, not 12 KW. What brands are you referring to? I also do not think NECode would allow for putting a plug on an appliance that did not come with one, but maybe an electrician on here will tell us for sure. On most minis, certainly those like the 2 Pioneers we installed in 2015, mains power connects to the outdoor condenser, and the indoor cassette gets its power run with the lines from the outdoor unit. There is no way to "plug it in" or otherwise connect it to mains power inside.
I was kinda hoping this follow up vid would cover the things done wrong in the DIY guide video. Stuff like the wrong circuit breaker size, coiling the lines horizontally instead of vertically, torquing the flare fittings, etc. Instead, it was an infommercial for the brand of mini split he installed. : /
We've got minisplits. Had to replace 3 old ones for efficiency and end of life reasons. One disadvantage is that when they have a problem, you don't pull them out of the window and swap it for a new one. Other than the electrical, it's pretty much a complete do-over.
you can totally connect mini splits to a 110 outlet, I'm surprised high priced units don't have a prewired plug or at least the wiring coming straight out from the back of the inside unit.
4:47 In addition to the differences you’ve outlined, the MRCOOL condensers come with lifetime warranty, which some people might find worth the extra $350.
Also, all Mr Cool units come with lifetime tech support so they'll walk you through troubleshooting any issues you may run into down the line. Can't put a price on piece of mind IMO.
Say about your Comment "you just can't plug it into a 110v outlet" I am sorry to tell you that Confortotal (Spanish For Total Comfort) 12000 btu Plugs into any 110v outlet. The Head Unit powers the Outside Condenser, No need for HVAC guys or any Electricians. The cord is about 6 foot however you can buy a Longer one at any electrical shop and replace it to reach an outlet or get an extension cord. The Compressor is a Toshiba and has Gold Fins not Blue fins. It is not an inverter so it is either on or off (running or Not). The Seer is on the Low end but not the worst I think a 15. It does its Job Cools and Heats and it is $500
Heat pumps are hugely efficient for 1kw in with up to 5kw out...How? they use energy to move heat from either inside to the outside or the outside to inside......this is why they are called Heatpumps! Minisplit RC Airconditioners are HEAT PUMPS...... 💚💚💚💚💚
Yep! You get to keep that money in your pocket AND you have a new vacuum pump and other toys. Just got a vacuum pump off of Amazon for a paltry $65 and used it on my car. Mini split system is next.
I installed 2 cooper hunter mini splits in my home 6 years ago. We have had no problems with them and saved big $ over the window units we used before. We love then and so simple to install.
1. You didnt say where you lived so most of what you said was useless. 2. There are 3 manufacturers in the entire world they are all Chinese, GREE..HAIER...MIDIA everything else is just stickers and injection molding to your liking. Each one of these manufacturers have good better best. This is why your Japanese units come in a box that says made in China. 3.SEER ratings mean nothing when you use them to dehumidify. High seer less dehumidification unless on dehumidifier mode. High SEER units are great for Arizona but dont mean to much in Florida. 4. Once you are in a latitude that requires more energy for heating than cooling you should go to a unit with a duel stage compressor. These units are more expensive but they all make them. 5. Just because they say the unit will operate down to -13 or whatever you must look at the performance charts to see how much heat they are producing at those temps. Most single stage units will barely produce 50% of the rated BTUs at 0 degrees. Most DUEL stage units will produce undiminished BTUs at zero although the COP at these temps drop considerably. 6. When doing your heat load you will calculate how many BTUs you need on a design day (coldest expect day in your area) Then you must look at the output of the unit you plan to buy for THAT DAY! This information is contained on the performance chart for each unit. 7. When the unit breaks and it will and it will happen when it is 90 degrees out good luck finding someone to fix it if they didnt sell it to you.
Just beware of a flooded floor. The minisplit will seem to stop clearing humidity in the room, hinting that condensation is not draining through a hose to the outside the way that it should. Moisture which doesn't get through the drain hose builds up and begins cycling through the room until it finally stops draining at all and just floods the floor. Also, with time, it gets noisy. This is curable. Dust and debris settle in the drum fans inside the indoor part of the unit, causing turbulence, which causes noise. A bottle brush, for example, can reach in and scrape the inside of the drum fans clean. A vaccuum cleaner helps remove the loosened debris.
We had a mini split installed in our Master bedroom. At night we turned it on to our comfort sleep temp. While the rest of our home stayed the same night time set point. No muss, no fuss. Lower electricity bills overall. We calculated the maintainence and electricical savings to "go ahead" and get the mini split.
Most people sleep better at cooler temperatures. If I had a mini-split I would let the house get much warmer (cooled by central A/C) and keep only the bedroom really cool.
I am about to do the same thing! I already bought the equipment, just waiting for a good day to install it. I have a 1,800 square foot home with 2014 Goodman 14 SEER heat pump, and I think I can cut my cooling costs by 60%! My heating a lot less too. The ductless Della brand unit is 17 SEER and 9 HSPF. And Silent!
Central air is highly overrated and inefficient. Minis are the only way to go. I've installed a 12,000 btu 110 volt in my sunroom and the same in my dining/living room. If my central air ever lays down on me, I'm installing one more in my bedroom and I'm set. No more slave to the big HVAC companies and their maintenance contracts. I live in Florida so when I installed them, I made provisions for being able to simply plug them into a small 2200-watt fuel efficient generator during power outages from hurricanes. Everyone always wants these whole house generators not realizing that by day 2 they can't find gas to run them anymore. If these are incorporated into new builds they can be installed very attractively. There are ways to dress them up for existing structures, so they look nice also.
I live in Canada and picked up a 24,000 BTU Senville concealed duct unit made in Montreal. Almost everything you showed applied to my unit as well and I found it clear, informative, practical and a damn fine video. Thanks a bunch.
Very good video. There's something else about buying those tools, you have them if you ever have to repair your unit or install another one. Mr. Cool is expensive and if it does have a leak down the road you'll likely have to buy new lines. I just bought a mini myself and the tools to install it, I also bought the offset flanging tool and the NyLog blue sealant and the line covers. I have flanging tools but the off set does a better job and at the pressures of mini's you want everything in your favor. I looked at the mounting brackets but my unit says it should be 12" from the wall and I don't think the commercial brackets do that so I'll make my own. Thanks again, worthwhile video.
I'd like a video on how to take out and clean the inner wheel/fan in the unit. This has to be cleaned every 2 years for proper air flow. I clean the curved 2 part pull out screen on top, but the inner spinning wheel gets really dirty and doesn't allow air ro flow or the AC to run. I had a mini split installed in 2014 and wasn't told about this and I had it cleaned in 2021 and it was disgusting. I watched it being removed, but do not remember how now. I had to hose off and brush the caked dust and grime off the wheel for a good ten minutes. I let it dry and put it back in. Of course I do not remember how to now. I have photos of the dirty long inner fan wheel. I used it for heat and AC in a 600sq ft 2 room 20x24 since installation. I supplemented with a woodstove and I'm sure that added to dust. I just tried the AC and it doesn't cool. I only used as AC for 2 seasons 2022&23, not for heat. I used a propane heater. I would find it hard to believe it got as dirty as before.
FWIW, Mr. Cool has the same contractor install version for similar price. One thing to remember also with a pre-charged unit, you can't shorten the lines if you have a closer installation the outdoor unit in the indoor unit. You have to figure out what to do with the extra line set coiled up inside or outside.
@@Gbfaninnm just don't leave the excess lines coiled up vertically otherwise it's a possible oil trap waiting to happen, lay the excess coil horizontally above or below the unit or in the attic when possible.
@@SavageOne420 I never knew this. I have one full vertical circle at my compressor. Partly to get the approach angle right to compressor connection and partly because I was afraid to cut without much extra. Do you think one 3-4' diam circle could be a problem?
4th advantage of the Mr. Cool DIY line. They will honor the warranty if you install it yourself. If you choose to put in another brand by yourself and you are not a licensed HVAC technician, you will void the warranty and they will not honor any repair work on it. Beware!
Good coverage on the vid but, one more thing that should be covered is the SEER rating. Most basic mini splits can be anywhere from 15 SEER to 30. + SEER so, there could be considerable savings based on your usage. Just a note SEER is the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating. 👍😉
Looks like the unit he bought is seer 20. The window unit is likely Seer 11. That means it will uses about half the power in cooling and in heating mode it will use less than a third over resistance heaters ! (He must not be using his shop much)
I just had a unit installed in my house. I had a friend install it (with my help, okay I wasn't much help) and the important tip was the condensation line. We love it! With purged it with nitrogen, pressured it for leakes, and then vaccummed it. Put some step stones around the outside unit and filled it with small rocks. Put a bowl under it to catch the water and now wildlife has fresh water to drink.
Ken Hurley very nice gesture! I’m an Hvac mechanic for past 25 years and I generally always try to talk clients out of them and go with conventional if possible to!!! Best Is when I get a service call and upon arrival system is all apart pieces and wires everywhere and then the dreaded “I’m an engineer!” Hahaha!! That’s when I sell em a new unit!!! I’m
@@matsudakodo you're definitely right. I currently have a 400sqft room that was an add on to the house. There's no air ducts over on that side. Previous owners installed a PTAC window unit and it's horrible, loud, always running, and not efficient to say the least. This week I'm Installing a mini split and I am excited about next months power bill. Maybe next year I'll put one in the garage.
I'm learning that if you do an install yourself (on any other brand besides the Mr Cool DIY), then the warranty is void. So if there are problems later on, you have to deal with it yourself, or pay someone. Which means that any great warranty that any of the units come with (5-year, 7-year, 10-year - whatever) are null and void if you install it yourself. So, if/when there are issues later, and you need to pay someone to fix an issue you can't or don't want to deal with, is money really being saved up front? Thoughts?
I installed one recently and it's the biggest quality of life upgrade I've ever made. I bought a cheap vacuum kit and a line flaring tool and cut my lines to length & made new flares, drew the vacuum and connected everything up - you can get it done in a day pretty easily. Probably just a few hours if you plan properly. Hardest part for me was finding the right place to put the condenser.
Biggest mistake I made was that the disconnect box didn't come with fuses, so I had to make another trip to the store. I bought the Pioneer brand, and I'm pretty happy with it. The WiFi dongle is about $75, but if you look at the model number it's common across many brands and I got one on ebay for $30. So nice to set my office to cool or heat while I drink my coffee.
Which unit are you calling "the condenser"? The reason the documentation refers to the indoor unit and the outdoor unit is because the role of the condenser can be in either depending on which mode, heating or cooling, the unit is operating at that time.
@@elgringoec The default term for the outside unit is condenser because that was correct for A/C units that were around for a long time before heat pumps became popular, and it's where the compressor is located.
@@robertball3578 Okay, makes sense that would be a logical confusion. Thanks for the explanation. Though I wouldn't consider the term "default" to be appropriate to describe this situation since a condenser is not technically defined or used to indicate an outdoor unit by anyone in the industry literature. By industry standards, default would be "outdoor unit" with "condenser" a slang usage.
so glad I click on this video! I live in southern Louisiana and my central air went out 5 days ago! It's been hitting 93 degrees each day and 80% humidity. I'm a teacher on break so I'm just living in my bedroom with a window unit. All Heating/Cooling businesses are backed up a month busy and I can't afford to replace a full Central Air unit, anyway. But I MIGHT be able to do this with a little help and your videos! Guide me, Yoda!
@@tecnikstr0be I looked into it and can’t afford to set up the house right now. I bought a large window unit for the front of the house. When the time comes for some renovation and I’m doing other stuff, I’ll pull the funding for it. Keeping that bedroom window unit for hurricane season. It was my savior running on a generator when the lights went out!
I installed mini splits in 2021 It was easy and I did the entire job myself and met code as well. They have been amazing and we got a rebate from our power co op that paid for half the price of the units Summer electric bill is almost exactly the same, winter heat bill is $150 a month less than running our pellet stove
That is incredible savings in the winter time. Makes me wonder if I install them in my house will it be cheaper than my natural gas boiler and baseboards, of which it cannot keep up when it dives below 15F in one of our rooms.
@@raymondjohnson8522 Depends on the setting you pick Mine has Auto, cool, fan and heat settings If you choose auto and set the temp you want it will only run when it needs to All other setting run continuous
@@raymondjohnson8522, Most mini-split units run at just the right speed to meet the demand. So some times they do not shut off. During the summer, you might decide to stop the unit from time to time, say it is about 75 overnight, and you want to shut it off for a few hours, That is fine. It will draw a little more power at noon when you start it again, but overall you will save a few watts per day by shutting it off.
Other tips: 1. between 3 and 5 years you're going to need a new motor. The motors become off center, wobble, and that wobble extends thru the squirrel cage. Buy the replacement motor when you buy the unit because the manufacturers are always discontinuing models. I've got 28 I take care of in a lodge. Also try to get buy or download a service manual when you buy the unit. Some mfg's don't make them available. If you buy a replacement motor where the model has been superceded, make sure the connector is the same. Often the wiring will be different or the connector is a little different. Also, the shaft length seems to change a lot so make sure if the shaft length is different that you can still use it. My replacements had a shorter shaft (still worked fine) as well as a connector that differed slightly(shaved a little plastic off with a knife and they worked). 2. clean the filter once a month. Clean the squirrel cage every 6 months unless your in a dusty area that also gets rain. The squirrel cage gets dusty then wet creating wobbles as the muck dries unevenly. 3. Be extra careful when removing the plastic parts. It's always the kind of plastic that breaks before it gives. 4. Remember that they never stay as quiet as the day they are installed. I try to keep mine no higher that 42 decibels 3 feet away as long as there is no wobbling noise. Once a wobble noise starts, it will get louder. Often i can get a decibel reading in the mid 40's with a wobble, and in that case the wobble wakes people up not the decibel level. You can get a decibel app for your phone for free. I take the squirrel cage out to clean it but you probably could clean it while it's in with a sponge and toothbrush if you didn't have the time.
@@mikeratkowski3506 God, please, never. What about a 20 head VRF? Your pump could sit there for 2 days. I'd go one further, water spigots within 50 feet of every rtu.
Darenator, While the National Electrical code revision in 2018 said that you need a 120 volt GFI protected receptacle within a certain distance of a HVAC outdoor unit, they do allow for a exception if you have one within 25 feet already installed. Oregon decided not to adopt that section of the new revised code, so it is not required in Oregon. Yet. Still it is handy to have a outdoor receptacle on the home. I put several on my sister's home to run Christmas lights! Just under the eves, so 9 feet off the ground level. When I installed a new HVAC at my sister's new house, I put in the disconnect, and a box under it with a 120 volt GFI receptacle. So she is ready when the inspector shows up, if it might be required in Washington. Anyway it is handy to have when running the vacuum pump. And the extra cost is only about $25 to install? I was able to connect the disconnect and receptacle box by running the wiring through the garage, even avoiding tearing up the drywall very much by installing a new double box inside the garage, just behind it I have the outdoor disconnect. So the 4" square hole that I had to cut into her drywall was filled by a double receptacle in the garage, and a 1" hole through the wall into the back of the disconnect finished the job, with no conduit at all. Just ran one 240 volt #12 wire to the A/C unit and 1 #12 romex to the power receptacles.
You missed the biggest advantage of Mr. Cool: the warranty. Yes, they're significantly more expensive, but they're also the only units that provide a warranty on DIY installs. I debated going the "buy a vacuum pump and refrigerant and do it all" route but decided against it because I really wanted the warranty.
@@matsudakodo If you read the warranty for the Mr Cool DIY type, it does not say that. They also make non-DIY types, and I'm sure it says that in those warranties.
@@bmay8818 correct, the current language states the licensed install is not needed for warranty if it's the "DIY" unit. I don't think it always said that.
My propane guy was doing a 10yr sniff check of my outdoor tank and informed me that a propane tank now must be located 10' or more from anything that could spark including a light switch, AC unit (the contactor) or even a crawl space vent that's not encapsulated. I'm just barely okay with my older 90's construction. Thanks for you video, I just bought a 4 ton Mr cool precharged, can't wait till it's hooked up.
I've built cars, airplanes and done massive remodeling but the installation of my mini split took more than a month. It's a lot of work and requires electrical skills, fabricating skills, assembling the covers and then u have a unit you cannot remove easily for repair. In contrast, the window unit is done in an hour & when it breaks, you take it out of the window/wall and into the shop for repair. My mini is 18k BTU which is twice the requirement for the room but the time it takes to cool the room from 81 to 74 is < 30 min. I see little purpose to wifi other than bragging that u can turn the AC on before you get home. No Big Deal. Another important consideration is service after the sale. Make sure the seller has a tech u can talk to during and long after the install. My unit reqd a vacuum pump and gauges but I had both. The seller wouldn't honor the warranty unless an HVAC tech did the work so I took the HVAC online course, passed the test, and that qualified me for the 5 year warranty.
ty for the advice, good points! Some quick feedback, I suggest stopping the random walking around side to side. Doesn't really work too well on camera. But otherwise great video!!
I'm in the Phoenix area. I installed 60,000 BTU/5 tons, with two 30K BTU units in my 30x45x16 metal shop with R-10 insulation and an insulated 14' high garage door. Ready to battle the occasional 120 degree days! Realistically, one unit does it all in most months.
Watched your video about a week ago of your install and came across this on today noticed your license plate in the window and realized that this is something that for sure should work in my situation thanks for making these video's. 1 thing that hasn't been covered is maintenance compared to other brands and even central air as most people don't realize you have to change filters once ( or you should ) a month. Haven't heard about mini splits
Look at your blower wheel in the case of mini splits, they become your filter and they get clogged with mold and dirt, pretty fast. It’s alarming sometimes
First off, I have to say I am not an electrician. But in my jobs, I have worked with electricity, and it was ALWAYS drummed into me to me that you never put jacketed wire in a conduit. Yes, if you over size your conduit it is legal but with what you had I think you should have taken the outside jacket off the wire and then put it in the conduit. If this subject has already been discussed I apologize ahead of time.
I’ve had a Fujitsu unit since 2011 in my garage and it’s awesome. Serviced once in 2021. Service guy said it was still nearly full with refrigerant and operating in great shape.
Unless he pulled out all the refrigerant into a tank and then weighed it(very doubtful) there is no way to tell how much refrigerant in in the unit. There shouldn't be any missing anyways. You can't use the same method to check refrigerant level like you do on a normal central air AC unit. He probably checked the delta temp difference from the intake and the exiting air and determined it was working properly. Also Fujitsu units are great! I prefer them over Mitsubishi
@@randybobandy9828 If the tech attached gauges, he could determine if the amt of freon was adequate. He could also attach an ammeter to see the current draw. If low on freon, the current draw would be lower. 99% of all home inspections are done by measuring temp differential which is woefully inadequate.
I'm with you on the Fujitsu's, they seem great. I've got a client who's got 5 of them in a wood mill (I do commercial hvac). The outdoor coils get plugged up with saw dust and they trip on high head pressure occasionally, but they're all about 10 years old and are still running great under some pretty severe conditions, extreme vibration, dust, set at 68f most of the time. Best thing about them is I'm able to get parts for these machines still. That's what really scares me about the mrcool's. A 300 year warranty on the compressor doesn't mean much if the inverter board fails after 2 years and is no longer available, or they claim it failed due to voltage fluctuations, if you read their warranty on their site it seems pretty vague. Most failures I find I could attribute to one or two of those exclusions. I'm guessing that must be a part of their business strategy - planned obsolescence. I'm also guessing in a few years there's going to be a plethora of poor reviews based on their warranty.
The Mr. Cool unit you show puts out 12,000 BTU with just 115V input. You said yours is 12k BTU @ 230V. Not sure if the amp difference balances out actual power consumption, but I would guess the Mr. Cool machine to be a bit more efficient in the long run. Not to mention some DIY'ers have already maxed out their 240v slots in the breaker box.
Pre-charged linesets are for folks who have no idea what they're doing. And pulling a successful vacuum on a closed system requires more than half an hour. The industry standard is less than 500 microns held for at least 15 minutes. You have to pull much lower than the 30 inches of vacuum referenced on a set of gauges. That's another mistake folks make when they have no idea what they're doing. These "DIY" systems, overwhelmingly, don't last long due to improper installation practices and techniques. Whereas professionally installed systems, installed with quality practices, often last upwards of 30 years of efficient operation. If you wouldn't DIY overhaul the engine in your vehicle, you shouldn't DIY an HVAC installation. There is SOOOOO much more to it than connecting point A to point B. Also, minisplits in a shop environment tend to be a nuisance to clean due to dust and other material clogging the head coil.
Great video! One thing you missed was the efficiency rating of the unit (HSPF for heating and SEER for cooling). The Tosot unit you got has an HSPF of 9 and a SEER of 20, decent but not amazing numbers. A $1500 Gree Saphire 9k BTU heat pump has insane ratings of 15 HSPF and 38 SEER. If used a fair amount it will quickly pay for itself in energy savings.
Once again you have to look at your area. If you live in Arizona or New Mexico a high seer number is a better option. Look at your sensible heat vs latent. High seer units remove very little humidity. This is why ducted systems are coming with a variable ECM Blower and a DEHUM terminal. When this terminal is deenergized the blower will roll back to 75% airflow thus turning your central air system into a big dehumidifier. All SEER rating go out the window at this point. If you turn your ductless to dehumidify or dry the same thing happens. the unit is no longer temperature controlled or has any SEER rating. If your air is dry enough you can run the unit at the same specs it was tested at. At that point you may consider a swamp cooler or a large coil with well water running through it. In PA we have a lot of humidity to deal with.
Gree makes compressors and maybe other parts for MANY brands. 38 SEER sounds like knife's edge, wondering if, like Li-Ion batteries, the performance runs down over time? More likely to fail? More costly to repair? And consider the premium $ vs savings, raking into consideration the life of splits (less than most central units), carefully. 22 SEER Pioneer 9K unit, etc, might make more sense.
I installed a cheap chinese made Gree 3KW mini split myself in our bedroom fourteen years ago. I did my own pipework and bought a vacuum pump and gauges to set it up. It came with a normal 220v plug we use in the UK so there was no extra wiring required although I did get the main electricity supply to the house upgraded professionally as I also installed a large induction cooker in the kitchen at the same time. It's never gone wrong once in fourteen years and requires minimal maintence, only involving keeping it dust free. It's definitely one of the best purchases I've ever made. The air conditioning is on all night most nights from the beginning of June until the end of September. It keeps the room at a comfortable temperature at all times and is quiet enough it doesn't interfere with our sleep at all.
Gree isn't actual that cheap. I mean the price is but the product is quality. I have installed a couple brands that are just green units with a different name and they have been going strong for 5-7 years now. I had a 3 ton Mitsubishi that definitely didn't cool as well as a cheaper (blueridge) unit that was also a 3ton. It was literally half the price at the time! $1700 vs $3600 for the Mitsubishi. I'm not super sold on Mitsubishi because the price is simply too high for whatever extra reliability you get. Pioneer/gree/senville/blueridge are all inexpensive and very good units. I have installed Single head units, double head units, and triple head units. So far all is good. I invested in really nice hvac tools that ensure a proper install every time like micron gauges/torque wrench set(not the same as a socket torque wrench)/ a nitrogen tank to pressurize the line too 300psi to see if there are any leaks before pulling a vacuum down too 500microns. You could probably get away with a cheap pump and gauge set but it could be a risk that you might have a slow leak Overtime but since I was installing many minisplits the proper tools where worth it.
If i'm not mistaken Gree is the biggest manufacturer of AC's globally. Along with Daikin some of the best brands you can buy. At least that's the sentiment here in southern Europe for a couple of decades at least.
3 дня назад
Surprised the Geely lasted so long. Chinese machines are usually built to get you 3 months beyond the warranty! That was why I went to a more expensive brand.
You didn't mention the difference between warranties. Some of that upfront cost is for the longer warranty with MrCool (7 Yr Replacement on Compressor + 5 Yr Parts) whereas the other brands you may only get 1yr if you install yourself. Have to use a licensed hvac contractor to get the full 5yr warranty, which we all know will add 800 - 1100 to the cost. I installed a Mrcool unit in 2017 and had leak on the lineset at the bend to go out the wall in late 2018. Lucky for me the unit I had bought from Homedepot was discontinued at that point, so Mrcool sent me a whole new unit. So there is a trade off.
I wouldn't install a minisplit without a micron gauge and making sure the line holds a vacuum under 500microns for atleast 4hours. Those gauges aren't accurate enough to do a proper job. A micron gauge is about $150 by itself. Torque wrenches are a definite help but not completely necessary along as your lines hold a 500micron vacuum you're fine.
I was talked into installing two Gree Mini splits in my dining room and home office. It was the worst decision ever. They have been problematic since installation. I've had the condensers replaced on a yearly basis. They are noisy and don't appear to be cost effective.
We're they installed by a professional? That is not normal at all to keep replacing the outdoor or indoor unit. The most common problem with mini splits is incorrect installation.
@@JohnnyBfromPeoria I agree, just as long as his tool of choice doesn't exceed the amps that the breaker and wiring are rated for. If the existing wiring and breaker are only 20A 240V it won't run a welder that requires 50A.
A few years ago, an AC tech changed a household 120VAC circuit to a 220VAC circuit without seeing what else was on that 120VAC circuit. The homeowner ended up frying 3 Dishwashers before calling me to check it out. And did not install the local disconnects. Don't go cheap cheap.. Just run new wire as needed and install the local disconnects. I do not know if he got sued or not, but sure could have been. A couple of things you did not mention: 1. Is that the condensate drain tubes will get clogged over time and you will have water streaming down inside, rotting out your walls and floors. That can get very expensive. 2. Is that your local thieves love to steal the outside units for scrap. That will also get expensive.
Hi, regarding legal requirements in other regions: In Greece, where I live, smaller units come with a plug, so you don't need an electrician if there is a power outlet nearby. On the other hand, you need an F-Gas certification to work in refrigeration and air conditioning, systems charged with R407C, R410A or R32. That certification requires a refrigeration technician license. So you can't DIY them, legally. Also, in order to have a warranty, most units require installation and regular service by a professional.
Also in Italy. You need to be a certified thecnitian to install one and you need to make a declaration of conformity of the installations when the job is done. Reguarding the plug, usually unit comes with a plug attached to them (I don't know if it's a requirement or not), and I've seen some situations where that had been used, even if the best option is to cut the plug and hard-wire it (better if on a dedicated circuit, but if not available to a socket circuit but with a bipolar switch). Also differently from the US the power is connected to the indoor unit that then sends it to the outdoor one (makes more sense, since inside you already have power and you have to bring only one multicore cable to the outdoor one, the outdoor unit doesn't have power when the AC is off since a relay in the indoor unit cuts the power and you don't have to make connections outside).
You legally need to have your EPA-608 certification to install a mini-split. You must have the type 2 certification if you work on, install or do anything that could release refrigerant.
If you needed the certification the retailer would not be allowed to sell the unit to anyone without the certification. If you try and buy freon you need a certification but not a pre charged sealed system.
I just installed a Senville mini split in less than 4 hours after watching your video. Great detail work with the video. I was between a mr cool and senville and went with the latter after looking at the price. 600 dollar difference. Keep up the good work
....And Daiken has parts available for when the system fails. Daiken is a quality company who stands behind their quality equipment. That really bugs me about the MrCool's. A 300 year warranty on the compressor doesn't matter if the inverter control board fails in 2 years and they claim it was a phasing issue.
Nice video! One more thing I wish I had known was the inside unit needs to be cleaned periodically to remove mold that grows on condenser. The outside unit should be cleaned as well but I didn't realize the inside would.
I'm sorry I ever bought one of the mimi splits. I live in Florida and the dank musty smell is almost always there when not actually cooling just fan on. I have it cleaned and even took it all apart and cleaned it and 3 months later you guessed it musty smell is back. There is no getting around this as I literally have tried nearly everything and no one gas found the solution. Great now I'm back to a window unit with a miminsplit hanging useless on my wall!
@@fuzfire mini splits do not dehumidify as well as central AC, or window bangers, in Florida where dehumidification is most important I wonder if this is a common issue.
@@fuzfire is there no way to change setting so it only has fan on while cooling not always on it will lower humidity and musty smell not pushing air over damp warm coil when the compressor is off
I'm moving into a new place and the Family room has a mini split, I wanted to move it but found out that it was fairly expensive to have it moved so I ended up keeping it in place, I also didn't realize how expensive the unit was to have initially installed. I did research to add the ability of wifi to the unit and found something similar to the Sensibo you listed. My current house is very smart equipped and most of that is coming with me to the new place, we used the mini split one time and it is amazing how quickly it cooled the room, so far I'm impressed with it for the same reasons you list.
It seems insane that some installers want to charge about $4,500 to install a mini split unit that they buy for about $1,800 from a supply house and it takes them about 6-8 labor hours to install. The "Off Brand" units that come from China or Israel, they tend to be about $1,000 including the copper lines that run between the two units. For my nephew, I was considering buying one of the traditional units, at about $1,200 and the lineset (copper lines between the two units) is a $250 add on. Then I found the units at Amazon for $719, 12,000 Btu and 120 volts. Perfect for his rental house! And so silent! Took us about 4 hours to complete the install. I have been repairing HVAC since 1984.
So far Mr. Cool is the only one that honors the warranty for DIY, the others you have to have a licensed A/C man install it. There went your savings and then some.
I have seven mini splits around our home. I live in Florida and I wanted to get rid of the duct work; God only knows what’s in there. There are some maintenance issues overtime. The condensation drain hose gets clogged overtime; I cleaned it out with a small portable shop vac used on suction and attach it to the water drain exit outside. A considerable amount of water will accumulate in a short period of time and my unit does not have an automatic cut off like larger units have for the air handler. I have my AC guy (I am not as handy as you are) come by once a year; he takes the inside unit apart and cleans the fan water trough,etc. The filter also needs to be cleaned at least once a month. Otherwise I really like the units and our electrical bill changed significantly. Thanks for the information about the Wi-Fi set up. Great video and thank you.
@@matsudakodo I live in Miami so minimal unintentional fresh air. My home was built in the ‘30s and it is far from airtight. I have several air purifiers to keep things fresh and several dehumidifiers to control damp Miami environment.
The higher SEER ratings may not be worth the money. For each SEER rating (aka 12 to 13, or 18 to 19) you save about 6% in energy. In a central city like Little Rock, Arkansas in the United States where you will need to both heat and cool, a 1200 square foot house will cost about 300 to 500 to heat and cool year round. In my case, it was 75% ($400) heating and 25% ($100) cooling.6% of $500 is $30. When I was searching units, the difference between a 18 SEER and 20 SEER unit was $450. (24K, 18 SEER for $1,300; 24K 20 SEER for $1,750. That is a $450 difference.) The more effcient unit cost 35% more. The break even period $450/$60 was 7.5 years. The Unit would have to last more than 7.5 years before it would begin to pay off. Now I generally believe these units can last a long time (10 to 15 years), but there is also a high risk of breaking something during install, or breaking before that time is up. If your unit is on the smaller side (12K instead of 24K) you are going to use half the energy and only have half the savings. These units are more effcient than central HVAC (generally SEER 12 or 14) so putting in a Minisplit with a SEER of 18 will save about 24% of the power. (18-14= 4, 4 times 6% equals 24%) (Yes, technically it is more complicated, but this math is close enough very simple and will get you close enough to make the right decision.) Please consider this basic math, then look at your historical energy usage, what portion of the house you are planning on heating (all in my case), insulation quality, (fair in my case), and prices of the units that you wish to install.
Great well edited video! I installed a Mitsubishi 18000 btu unit in my new 1000 sq ft shop 10 years ago which was a great decision….Unlike the in floor radiant heat system which I never use! Lol I ran into a few issues I didn’t know about like the ac disconnect and the precharged line had a max lineset spec shorter than I required. I also wall mounted mine and despite using all the vibration dampening gaskets I did notice a deep thrum at first but have gotten used to it. Minor compared to other heating cooling options except the radiant floor option which is expensive to setup and very expensive to run and of course only heats…. Fantastic tips on the bluetooth setup and the diy lineset options…. Thanks!
Your radiant heat must have been improperly installed. There is nothing more efficient than radiant heat or as comfortable. They all make air to water mini splits and that is very popular in Europe where everything is hydronic but do to the lack of hydronic systems in the US and because most systems here are high temp beyond the range of heat pumps most companies wont bring them here. Daiken has the ALTHERMA unit in this country. This unit will not only heat your radiant but also produce domestic water as well.
@@anthonyspadafora1384 I have an electric boiler with a longterm plan for a solar array to augment my hydro bill, after which it will be more economical but will look into the air to water as an alternate solution. Thanks!
Mitsubishi has been in the game for a long time and I'd regard them as one of the best. My friend of 50 years works as an engineer for Trane/American Standard, and recently told me that they had partnered with Mitsu due to their reputation and knowledge in the product niche.
I put two units in ten years ago one in the shop ( big open 1000 sq ft shop with second floor) and one in the common room in basement of house. Both are single head MSZ-GL18NA-U1 units. My Australian hvac friend said to go with Mitsu and I sourced the 18 k btu units that performed most efficiently in colder climates (I’m in Canada). Very happy with the shop setup. House unit is overkill and hardly gets used as we heat primarily with a wood stove but very nice as backup or for when we are away in the winter. I set up a destratification duct with a timered fan that circulates the warm air from shop loft down to the ground floor.
By going the cheaper route and doing the vacuuming the lines yourself, don't you end up voiding the manufacturers warrantee if you are not a licensed HVAC technician? I was thinking of doing the same thing, but with the Mr. Cool, you don't have to worry about voiding the warrantee since the lines are pre-charged.
2 minor corrections. 1 - the condenser doesn't pull air - it compresses the gas used to make the cold and pumps that cold gas through the inside blower unit. 2 - you can use the 220 outlet - it can make 2 (110) outlets and/or you can change the outlet connection type to most any other 220 style of outlet. Other than that, good video. I live in Central Americana and the mini splits are 99.5% of the ac units down here. They work great and are nice to not have to cool the entire house.
2 minor corrections. 1- The condenser doesn't compress the gas, it removes heat from it and changes the state to a liquid. 2- liquid is fed to the inside evaporator, not gas.
I believe to make the mini split work for 20 years instead of 5 you want to vacuum extract air from the lines before releasing the precharge otherwise your mixing the coolant with normal air in the lines. Seen that on another video.
It's summer 2023, and the Tosot website says the unit is R410 Pre-Charged. Also, if you get a 110V unit (9000-12000 BTU), technically you can use a dedicated wall outlet. I'm saying this simply because I could not find a definite "NO!". All it says is that it needs a dedicated circuit breaker, which a dedicated outlet has. I happen to have a dedicated 20A outlet for a central vacuum unit in my garage and I'm giving this a consideration.
A couple questions, do you need a receipt from a licensed A/C contractor for the final installation to get the warranty? Is there a way to install a box "pre-filter" around the air intake for better filtration than the little plastic filter that comes with the unit? ( I made one for my window unit out of quilters fluff that has helped in my shop) Thanks for the link to the inexpensive vacuum and accessory equipment!
My (Senville brand) units require a form to be filled out with the install company's license number and name, but I don't see a requirement to provide a receipt.
Yes you need a licensed hvac to sign off on the Install. I never did and installed 10 or some mini splits and haven't had a single issue with them in 7 years. They where mostly senville or blueridge units and one Mitsubishi. I wouldn't hold my breath on a warranty unless you paid a installer to do the work.
@@randybobandy9828 Thanks for that, it gives me more confidence in doing the job myself. Did you vacuum down the lines? I haven't bought one yet as my old window unit still works but I called two local A/C companies and they both basically said no on final install and that they couldn't guarantee their work unless I bought the unit from them, when I said I didn't need a guarantee from them, they said sorry, company policy.
@sam Tollefson yes I vacuumed down the lines. You want to get a micron Guage to make sure you pull a full vacuum down too 500 microns. You can get away with regular gauges but you might want to just vacuum down the lines for atleast 12hours then shut the value on the gauges are let it sit for a day and make sure the vacuum doesn't move the gauge at all. Ac install companies not wanting to install the unit I bought was one of the reasons I installed it myself. I did find a company who agreed to install the minisplit I bought but they tried to quote me $2400+ tax to install it... they where trying to charge more for the install since they couldn't make money on the mark up for the ac unit that they usually sell. I was able to install a 3 ton minisplit that I paid $1750 for(including the refrigerant lines and shipping) with about $300 in tools and another $75 in electrical. That would have been $6,000-$8000 from any local hvac company easily. A 3ton unit is a very large one that can cool a full 2,000sq ft home. You can buy a smaller one for alot less. Watch a bunch of videos on install and take your time doing it and you will be fine! The hardest part is honestly bending the copper line sets as they get pretty thick on the larger units.
@@randybobandy9828 Wow, thank you for all that! I am copying and pasting all this info in a file for when I do get one. One clarification if you don't mind, did you mean vacuum down the lines for 12 hours?
Warning on DIY on a non pre-charged unit, the EPA has requirements for an exam and certification to handle refrigerants. See the EPA 608 certification for more info. Yes there is a charge for the course and exam. You need your EPA certificate to purchase the refrigerant. If you do a non DIY system as non DIY, you may need to hire a refrigeration tech to evacuate and charge the system for you to EPA standards. Violation of the standards has very expensive penalties.
@@JohnnyBfromPeoria Nobody does. The only time this will ever matter is if the manual says your line set is too long and you need to add additional refrigerant.
3:30 that disconnect is not wired to code. Can't use neutral as a phase leg, have to reidentify. Dropped wire gauge means your breaker and fuse if it's a fused disconnect need to be the lower ampacity. The data plates on most of these units are confusing because the manuals say breaker should to be 1.5x peak amperage which for a 18K BTU is typically like 22A but specs a 30A max circuit protection. And you also need a flare kit (Harbor Freight or auto parts store) and a tube cutter so you can cut the lines to length and flare the ends. Whan you buy literally ANY of the DIY kits it weill say in the manual "All electrical connections must be made by a qualifed and licensed electrician".- I don't know if the seller or manufacturer will use that as an excuse to avoid a warranty claim by demanding a copy of the electrician's invoice, so bear that in mind as a possibilty. Typically you are looking at $500-$800 for a new panel run with the associated wire, disconnect, and whip, vs. about $100-$150 if you DIY depending on how much wire you have to buy or if you can get 6' of flex instead of a whole $40 roll.
In our house (Central Europe) the outdoor and the indoor unit (2.5kW split) the have a single wire that is plugged into a grounded 220V socket. Installation was done by technicians (coolant tube, wire connections, vacuum etc) but the entire electrical hookup consisted of finding an extra socket and plug in. This, being an efficient unit, does not use more than 880W at any point though, maybe larger units would be hardwired here too.
