Thanks for the video. I just picked up a pre owned model fs41 elite and my tables need adjusting to make the co planer. I’ve got no idea how to do it on this machine but I’ll find out. Your video helped me a lot so thank you.
I very much appreciate the time you took to create this content to share with everyone. I am still on the fence between this machine, the 410, a used felder combo or three machines, a planer/jointer combo, a shaper a track saw with a well built/designed cutting table and a drill press/jigs for mortising. One issue with this machine is that the fence needs that rod for flex support and the 12" width for planing/jointing. The 410 or a 41c has 16" which seems like a tremendous upgrade. - Again, thank you for the content.
One other comment you have made a few times in this video and others is that you don't trust the settings of the machine. The Felder videos, admittedly from Felder, state that you can always trust the settings exactly. That seems like a HUGE bonus to me.
You don't need the rod unless you press too hard against the fence. I've had my CU300 since 2003 and I've never needed it. Just adjust the fence to give an easy pass through. then just follow the fence.
Is there a way to use feather boards when joining? I noticed the multi directional tensioning being utilized when shaping. Any way exert lateral tension to register the work against the fence either at 90° or other various angles? Thanks. Great videos. Maybe give the bandsaw a reiview.
ckent1975fm Sorry to be slow to respond, I've been traveling. There's nothing available from MiniMax that I'm aware of that will give you the functionality of a feather-board when jointing. But, there are an number of third-party products out there that are feather-boards with magnetic bases that will work on the CU300.
Hi Peter , great videos, and very helpful all. Do you know anything about tensioning the jointer's chain, because mine seems really loose before the cog. Many thanks
Thanks for the videos. I appreciate the in depth descriptions and not assuming everyone watching the videos are woodworking experts. I recently bought a used CU300. I’m new to planing/jointing, so forgive my ignorance. My issue is that the out feed table is too high. I’ve adjusted it as far “out” as it will go, and when my ruler is on the out feed table, it still doesn’t touch the blade. I don’t see any other adjustments for the table. Because it is used, I don’t have a manual and it seems the Internet doesn’t either. Any thoughts?
Joshua, was that the source of your problem? I hope so, because I don't have any other ideas about why your outfeed table could not be adjusted to the correct height (and I wouldn't have thought of that one). I don't know if you're aware that's there's an email discussion group for MiniMax machines. You can find it at groups.io/g/MinimaxOwnersGroup. It's a great place to ask questions and get feedback from some really knowledgeable people. There's also an area where there are MiniMax related files, including owners manuals for many machines. For the CU300, check the folder named 'Archived Files From Old Yahoo MiniMax Group'. The parts manual is actually much more useful than the owner's manual. I'd guess that you'll have to join the group to access these. Best of luck. --Peter
Fortunately for me, but unfortunately for everyone else, my jointer/planer bearings seem to be working as they should. If I ever do have to replace the bearings, I will make a video of the process, but until then I'm afraid you're on your own. -- Peter
Hi Sunnybeeches. I got a used VG condition CU300 Smart with an 8 foot slider and accessories. Not sure I have all of the accessories (including the clamp / hold down) I have seen you use. My search for "CU300 Accessories" doesn't seem to get me far. Please post a link to your source(s).
Congratulations on your new machine. Unfortunately, I don't know of anyplace where you can see a list of all CU300 accessories. If you didn't get a parts manual with your machine, I'd suggest you get one. It shows most accessories, along with other repair and replacement parts. The website for MiniMax parts and manuals used to be partspronto.com, but this has apparently been changed to spareparts.scmgroupna.com. To get into the site, you need to request an ID (click on 'Request A New Account' on the login page). I had an ID on partspronto, but it doesn't work on the new site, so at the moment, I can't get in. On the partspronto site you could download manuals without an ID, but apparently on the new site you can't do much of anything without first getting the ID. Best of Luck --Peter
@@sunnybeeches8534 Thanks, Peter. I am awaiting their approval of my registration application for their website. (Don't you love that European marketing and sales culture?) - Alex
It ha been 5 years since you did your video's on the MiniMax. What are3 your feelings about your purchase today? Still happy? What would you do differently (if anything)?
I continue to feel that buying the CU 300 was a good investment, and the machine has held up very well over the years. If I were to go through the purchasing process again, I'm pretty sure that I would end up making the same decision about the brand and model. The only thing I've changed in how I use the machine is that I no longer depend on the stop block in the cross cut fences to set them up for accurate readings of the ruler for the stops. The stop block is too easy to knock out of position. Instead, I set a stop block at the 3" mark, and use a 1-2-3 block to set the stop 3" from the blade. --Peter
Well, no thumbs up from you then I'll guess. I will study your many videos to see how it should be done...oh wait, you have none. Let me know when you've created some content, and I'll give it a view.
Wasn't trying to be a jerk. I apologize if it came across that way. You did get a thumbs up from me. The product information in the vid was good if not succinct. You did help me make the decision to get a MiniMax SC. Video production for RU-vid isn't my forte but some pro-tips can't hurt.
Perhaps I overreacted to your constructive criticism. In light of your comment, I re-watched the video, and I have to say that I don't see that there's 15 minutes of fluff in there. What's in the video is there because I thought it might be useful to someone, not because I'm too lazy to edit it out.
It's not all fluff, and I most certainly wouldn't presume to call you lazy. it's all the little stuff like footage of you walking to turn on the dust collection and some over-explaining (there aren't many beginners considering/buying a $13,000 combo machine). I look at editing with the attitude- don't think about what needs to be cut out, but what needs to be left in. If it doesn't NEED to be there, it shouldn't be. You are obviously a skilled craftsman and like I said, talked me into a MiniMax :-)
Peter, thank your for the thorough and detailed presentation. I'd never heard of the minimax until a friend recently offered me a used one to purchase. If it wasn't for your generous presentation, I may have passed on this great opportunity. Thanks again.
Great movies you make, although I can see that you are not professional. Allow me to give you a piece of advice. You spend far too much time when you are planing thin layers of the board. The biggest problem in your work process, however, is that the cutting blades are worn down too quickly. The machine should be set so that the board is planed purely by a single pass. Please continue the good work ;-) Greetings from Denmark
+gaden0114 Thanks for the feedback. I can see your point that multiple passes mean more blade wear. I'll have to try experimenting with removing more material per pass and see how that works.
I think a single pass would produce chips and heavy tearout, if there is a lot to remove a first deep pass and then ever decreasing passes until it is to size and smooth. Deep passes are for people with expensive drum sanders. Final passes should be 1/32 and finer.
Have you ever used a power planer or jointer? It doesn't seem like it. Yes, aggressive passes can be made, but that can be risky and those must be followed by a few light passes to end with an acceptable surface; and then there's the thing where the craftsman wants to see the grain as it's exposed.
