MistBox - Review & installation 

Please see my new Mistbox Version 2 video for the latest updates. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3389SDB660Q.html

Hvac units are designed and built to be in the weather. Rain, heat, snow. So this won't subtract from it's over all service life. I do industrial, commercial and residential Hvac for 35 years and have been using water to cool the condenser of my unit for over 20 years and it works beautifully if done correctly. Super heat is typically only a concern in refrigeration. Sub cooling is mainly affected by your refrigerant charge, too much will flood the evaporator and slug liquid refrigerant, too little will starve it and not have the capacity to remove heat thru the evaporator. Adding water to your condenser is no different than the outside temp dropping. So if its 90 degrees outside your supply temp in the house will rise as the condenser can't cool the refrigerant any cooler than the outside temp will allow, it is a slave to the ambient air around it. But if you spray 70 degree water on it thus your supply temp will drop and now the condenser has the lower temp to reject more heat thus lowering your supply temp. Your Delta T (Supply temp and room temp differential) will improve and it will now remove more heat from your home. Your suction pressure, discharge pressure and hot gas will all change when water is added. It will bring it back to a more normal operating temp and pressure range thus work more efficiently. My system is a bit more control oriented than this method. The water is usually not needed until the ambient temp is above 85 to 90 degrees if it is sized, clean and installed correctly. My system has to have (3) things happen to be engaged. (1) Call for cooling... I use the Y2 signal from my unit's stat( Y is a 24 volt call for cooling from the thermostat and starts the compressor) to pass thru(2) an outdoor mechanical air sensor set to 90 degrees, it's set of contacts are normally open and close only when the outside temp reaches 90 degrees. After Y calls and the outdoor air sensor closes at 90 degrees it passes thru the last device, (3) a head pressure switch that measures condenser head pressure and temperature. It has to be above 250psi (R-22 Freon) to allow the voltage to hit a 24 volt water solenoid coil that opens and sends the water to the misting lines that spray the water on the coils. And if the water with the fan is able to drop the pressure below 175, it shuts off the mister until the pressure rises above 250 again to keep from over cooling in low ambient conditions. I also use a two stage thermostat that has the ability to control a system that has to compressors. My system only has one compressor but the stat doesn't know that. What it does know is on a call for cooling it will measure how much time it is taking to drop the temp in the house and if it doesn't start seeing a few tenths of a degree falling in an allotted amount of time it will then call for the second stage Y-2 in this case the 2nd stage is the beginning call for water. Hope this helps anyone considering using water with your Hvac system.

You may want to raise your misters to direct more mist at the top of the condenser coil - since this is the hottest portion of refrigerant as this is where the compressor discharges to - may gain some efficiencies

You can also take an amp draw reading in real time with the mist on verses with it off. If it is not dropping your cost is not dropping either. Also consider the cost of water. For instance the house I'm in now the owner pays $350 a month.

Snake Oil. Nobody has ever posted any hard data that shows actual overall savings. I have seen a few people post NO savings, but added cost, when you figure the tiny amount of savings they did see, but that was offset by the cost of the system, cost of water, and cost of replacing the filters. If this was so great, you'd see these things everywhere. Manufacturers would produce compressors that had this already built in. Much better to just buy a higher SEER rated system and then you WILL see savings.

I purchased this product last year. I removed it before the end of summer. It was causing mineral deposits to form on the fins of my unit and to be honest I really did not see any real savings? I do live in Florida so the more humid the climate the less effective this product will be. This device never worked at all in collecting data. My biggest complaint is with the company itself! They are very difficult to get in touch with, support is almost ZERO! I had one of the engineers call me and make a promise that they did not deliver on. They never return my emails or any other attempts to contact them. I am telling you this is way too expensive for what it will return and it will shorten the life of your unit with rust and mineral deposits. Best advice update to a modern AC unit.

How did you connect it to know when to turn on and off with the AC unit?Isn't there some type of electrical connection to the thermostat wire?

What if your a/c is in the shady side of your house, solar won't work if there's no sun.

thanks for the video helpfull .. i just built a new house and thinking of buy 2 units for the house.. interested in seeing how its doing maybe updated video .. also i seen lowes dont carry it so im looking around to see other than ebay

So, is there a follow up video to this one? Does this thing work in the south? I live in the Dallas area. :-)

Hey, thank you for make the video, question what battery use and how it charge?

Question: The tax credit is only if you own the unit or will you get it if you subscribe to the service (e.g: $99/month subscription versus $399 cost).

Does this mister turn off when the a/c shuts off?

That's just overkill. You have a 24 volt signal on the condenser when the thermostat calls for cooling. All you need is a 24 volt sprinkler valve, some plastic tubing and some mister heads.

Ok its 8 months. Did you save any money?

Did you realize any savings this summer?

Did this deal work???