Miter Saw Dust Collection || Dust hood and Cyclone 

The sliding doors are probably my favourite feature. Just makes it easier!

Lol thanks! I can just picture that ;) I think I slapped my own forehead when the idea hit me, so I can totally relate!

Thanks! Agreed with the 4" connected to the dust collector. That would mean having a hose on the floor (trip hazard) for me, so it's not in the plans for now, but maybe one day if I pipe out my dust collection.

lol I hear you Barry! That was my thought going into the project... I can't just make another cover.. how can I improve it...? Glad I seem to have succeeded! :-)

Thank you so much!

Thanks Russ! Agreed that finding the right hoses and adapters is the most frustrating part, so just trying to lend a helping hand! As for using your daughter's old room... You'll definitely need to optimise dust collection!! Hopefully this will help with that. Best of luck!

Thanks!

Thank you and it's my pleasure!

@@DIYMontreal 😃🙏

The duststopper is on option, but I could not find it at HD where I live. Not sure they sell it in Canada, at least not Quebec. It's definitely the simplest solution, but tests show that the cyclone is more effective. It's a good easy and cost effective alternative though.

Nice! Glad I could inspire :-)

I like the wooden box idea but wonder how to create a box with a tight seal that still has an easy removal lid. Any thoughts?

Try building the box like a very strong drawer with a bottom that slides into dadoes. The sliding "bottom panel" can be on the bottom like a drawer, on one side, or even the top. The thin plywood typical of drawer bottoms is not beefy enough for a dust box because a good shop vac is strong. As long as the rest of the joints are tight, the sliding panel will be pretty tight under vacuum, which pulls it together. A hinged panel works, too, because the vacuum will pull it tight. The configuration of the lip could be anything that looks interesting to the maker. On a much larger chip collector for a planer I used a weather seal strip between the box and the lid, which lifted off. That was great for sealing the box but then the lid stuck to the seal. After a few sessions with a screwdriver to get them apart each time it needed emptying, the seal was probably no tighter than some nice joinery like a half-lap lip would have been. It still worked fine. On several dust collection boxes I used window locks to lock the lid down firmly. The "Everbilt Window Sash Lock with Tight Seal" worked very well, for less than $4 at the orange big box store. Just mount it so it pulls the lid into the box. Compression from ordinary window locks might be enough but usually my box configuration didn't work for them. Again, the internal vacuum will pull the lid tighter. You just don't want some annoying whistling noise while you're working. The vac is loud enough already. Depending on the wood you're cutting, the dust can itself be a hazard, aside from the particulate count in the air (which you showed so compellingly). Wood dust that is inherently hazardous is another reason to collect it to start with. So, why be exposed to it again when emptying the container? If your container has a lift-off lid, a plastic bag can hold the debris for dust-free disposal. However, a simple plastic bag does not work as a liner because the vacuum pulls the bag up into the outlet. If you put a heavy object inside the liner bag then the plastic behaves nicely. Cut a heavy piece of plywood in the shape of the container, a half inch smaller than the container's inner dimensions. Or glue something heavy to a light piece of ply. It's easy to forget the liner weight at the bottom of the bag at disposal time. Tying a string to it makes it easy to get the liner out of the bag without having to dig around in that hazardous old dust. Something a little lighter than paracord may be thin enough and soft enough to just close the lid on it, leaving one end to hang outside where it is easily seen and remembered. Or, just consider the piece inside the bag to be disposable. Scrap drywall works for that. If a five-gallon bucket fits, putting the Dust Deputy on the bucket lid, as you did, is much faster than building a box. It quickly gets inconveniently tall with the bucket, the Deputy, and the vac hose curling out from the top of the tower. But it's fast, and it works great. Sorry about the long reply. It was a great question.

Thanks!

Thank you kindly!

Merci!

Merci!

Yes, I've seen that done before, but they never seem quite right. Maybe an upgrade idea for one day down the line.

Thanks, I that means I did something right! ;-)

I debated a few different ways of doing this, and a single dust hood with exhaust port was one of them. Not with a leaf collector though ;-) There are many options to experiment with. I find that at least the dust that doesn't get sucked up will get trapped, so at least I'm not constantly cleaning my workbench!.

Thanks! Nothing wrong with making mistakes in my book, that's how we learn. From my research (and video from @Jay Bates - woodworking videos) this is the most reliable particle monitor for the price range. I highly recommend based on my experience with it so far.

@@DIYMontreal Jay Bates' video where he made a bench out of 8 2 X 4's is what got me started, so of snow balled from there , lol. I really enjoy working with wood.

Happy to hear that! Thanks :-)

Go for it! Happy to share the ideas. 😊

LOL thanks for making me feel better ;-)

I just bought the 12 inch version of this as well, and was wondering if you follow the same plans for the sliding door? I am new at this, and I am very confused about burying the knobs for the fence.

Thanks JP, hope the video comes in handy.

Your very welcome Marie! Have a great week! 😎

Thank you so much! 🙏

Thanks! One step at a time. You'll get there 👍

Thanks, Glad to help!

Agreed! This was long time overdue.

Yeah a curtain near the motor might improve things marginally. Near the handle would just annoy me personally! And I'm fearful of having things flapping around that might get caught in the blade. Something to experiment with though. There is definitely room for improvement.

Et encore merci Jeannot! :-)

Super, ça fait toute une différence!

I was just reading another comment about adding bristles or pvc to close the gaps. While I can see how that might help, I personally feel I would get annoyed by the material flapping around and be concerned of something getting caught in the blade. I suppose it would be worth experimenting with. As for WBC, I went the last 2 years but not sure if I'll make it out this year. We'll see!

Thanks!

Thanks, appreciate it! The US links are simply because the majority of my audience are US based.

Ha thanks! 😊

Thanks, appreciate it! I don't make that many mitered cuts but when I do, I simply slide open the doors.

The zero clearance is a simple piece of tape made for this application. Check it out here: www.amazon.com/dp/B07C68GTVK/?ref=exp_diymontreal_dp_vv_mw

DIY Montreal thanks!

This is my first experience with a cyclone and no issues with collapse so far. Perhaps because of the smaller bucket. For the larger bucket, they recommend using 2 buckets pilled together to prevent cave in. My seal seems good but I think I could make it better with silicone. Perhaps I'll make that modification down the line but for now I am satisfied.

No it's never tripped the braker.

Btw i am a complete noob at this lol