Great vid. Most people think the bushings pivot around the bolt instead of flexing like you showed. It's hard to believe, but the rubber is bonded to the inner and outer pieces and the movement is just from the rubber flexing. It's a wonder the rubber doesn't rip from the metal and fail a lot sooner than it does.
Wow I never knew about that having it tightened only when the car is at ride height. Mine were semi shot when I purchased the car used in 99 but now I know when I finally do get around to replacing them what to do. Only downfall is my car has Air suspension setup so its a bit more tricky to just crawl under the car like that but I'll figure something out when the time comes. Great videos though man, From one DSM owner to another keep up the great work.
GREAT VID! Helps me a lot! Im going to be changing both my lower control arms this weekend and I was desperate to learn how to do it myself rather than paying over 100 buks for a shop to do it. Thank you!
Your welcome, that's a Pittsburgh-pro 1/2 drive love the style its similar to my snap-on ratchet i use often, been putting this one to the test, holding up well
Robinsonsauto-- Thank you so much for making this Eclipse Control Arm video. I had so many problems with my 1997 eclipse, now after watching your video I will fix the problem for good.
When I did this job, on a Dodge Avenger, I made this mistake. Also I replaced both of the lower control arms to try to fix a problem with the vehicle jolting in random directions while driving. It didn't fix the problem. The front susp was tight then and I was confused. I was in my shop a few weeks later and I kicked one of the rear tires and it turned. A control arm on the back had caught something and popped out of the bushing. Good Video!
I agree by far its my most used harbor fright tool i own i purchased the 1/2 drive first knowing how much i like my snap-on similar style longer handle this one seemed a perfect length i liked it so much i went back and got the 1/4 and 3/8 drive i striped out the 1/4 drive internals after hrs of hard use, cant let that knock it i have done the same with high end tools as well, i need to exchange it, every time i go for a 1/4 ratchet i get disappointed and realize how much i like that style
I torqued them with a long Snapon extension and utilizing the gap in front of the wheel to work the torque wrench. Was still difficult. Braced the head of the torque wrench on a 2x4 so I could focus on tightening. I had to attach the new arm in a different order than you, as the strut fought me pretty hard. Did that first, then ball joint, then inner bushing. Wore my back out doing this job on the ground. Took longer than expected too.
Love your vids! I share this video link to a DSM group in MN where I'm from and snow cold weather potholes streets can be pretty brutal on our 20 year old cars. This vid has contributed thanks a lot for the knowledge. Much appreciated!
Yup. I have the ratchet in 3/8 inch. It's the best ratchet I have, and I dare say it's the best ratchet Harbor freight sells. They have improved their ratchets a lot recently. The first time I saw this swivel head type was an SK a few decades ago. I don't know if they first made it and their patent expired so others can make it, but it's the one to get IMO.
Cant recall the style bushings used on that model However, this will apply to any suspension component that uses molded bushing like i demonstrated, hope that helps
Was nice and unfortunate to have one of these on my driver side drop out on me when i was going about 25/30. Busted the axle and smashed up the front fender a bit on the bottom since the shock mount was bouncing off the ground. You'd think there'd at least be an aftermarket solution to anchor the shock to something in case of this happening so the vehicle is still movable in the event of the ball joint pulling out, considering the lateral arms have a recall.
Thank you so much for making this video! I just did this on both sides of my Eclipse with your video playing in the background. Only difference is, I had to disconnect the ends of the sway bar because I could not manipulate the shock fork as easy as you. Great tip on torquing the bolts only when the spindle is in stock configuration. I put a jack under the ball joint when torquing everything to spec.
I have a 95 eclipse. a few years ago my control arms were worn out. I found out that there was a recall on the lower control arms. I brought it to Mitsubishi and had two brand new ones installed for nothing.
Should always tighten the bolts at rest position but most Technicians don't.I always tighten at rest position though.Audis' are very specific about doing this.This don't matter on bushings that can move like the other control arm that was next to the one replaced in this video.
set the tires on a brick or 2, or 4x4 post sections, you will get the height and be able to have some more room to work. All the body weight will be on the car and the right height to tighten the bolts to specs, of course, you will need to jack the car a second time to remove the height adjusters, ie bricks or 4X4's. old race car tricks at the track. get er done..(CAUTION) MAKE SURE YOU SET THE BRAKES AND CHOCK THE WHEELS!
I just bought a 1999 Eclipse GS and took it to a shop to get it looked at to see what kind of work it would need. The guy said that the control arms are bad and being held together by bolts and they at rotting away. I asked how much it would be to have it fixed and they said they don't mess with that stuff since its structural. Does that sound right? Can it actually be fixed?
I try to loosen the nut and seem like it’s not loosening it self up I’m doing the way he doing it and it seem like I just losing it for hours someone help !
