Explaining the hot water settings on a Mitsubishi Ecodan Main RC hope this helps :) #airsourceheatpump #mitsubishielectric #mitsubishi #heating #heatpumps #efficiency
Hi, Many thanks for these no nonsense videos. They are very useful indeed! I was wondering if you would post a video about Weather Compensation Curves, an explanation and perhaps a guide to editing them would be wonderful.
Thanks for that Madame Vino. However, I know now what happened and I'll gladly share as it is simple and may help someone with the same problem. It was the high temperature from the legionnaire prevention system that kicked in on that day. This is normal and happens regularly every 14 days for safety purposes. I hope this helps
Great content. I was looking for explanation so desperately. In Holland no engineer wants to come over as theyre swamped with work, so got to do it myself then.
Thanks a lot for making a proper video without the fluff. Would it be possible for you to reply with, or even make a video about the most important changes to make in order to get the most efficient COP? Compensation curve fine tune settings would be nice as well, mine range from 50c heat at -10c outside, down to 25c heat at 35c outside. Cheers.
I had a problem with my heat pump in that the cylinder regardless of settings would go below 30*c and I would rarely have hot water. Called a technician and they had a look. One of the internal filters was blocked by dirt and calcium deposits to the point that all circulation stopped in the heat pump. The guy was surprised I knew all the settings (thanks to this video) but said that this had nothing to do with me or what I changed. It just needed to be cleaned by a professional.
Just to add to this. The buildup that occurred in the heat pump was due to the water/fluids that were used during the installation of the in floor heating. The minerals were already in the system and simply all got blocked at the internal filter. Hopefully this helps if you recently got a new heat pump installed.
Thank you for a very helpful video. Can I set the timer to only allow the hot water to heat at certain times while not affecting the central heating which is on the Melcloud timer?
Hi, very good video, extremely well explained. I have essentially copied your settings, not that mine were way off to start with. What I am noticing is that if my child has a bath, then I need to wait 30 mins or so for the water to heat back up. Similar, if x2 people ahve showers in the morning then the kids have to wait a while to have a bath. Not sure of the size of our water tank but it's on the bigger scale. The water does not seem to be recycling quic enough. DHW is set to Large too. My plumber suggested increasing the max temp from it's current 50 degrees. I dont how this would help. I should have a full tank of water at 50 degrees to cover x2 showers and a bath?
does your system go into at E6 Or EE Fault code on the controller ? try resetting this completely by turning the outdoor unit off and the indoor unit off, then turn all back on if so. this will simply reset the communication for the unit.
Hi great video as always however I don’t have a DHW RECHARGE setting in my DHW options. ?? Also it would be great to know what curve is all about ? Thanks
Hi Dean, you may have the older FTC4 controller which doesn't have this function and tbh I wouldn't get to caught up on that setting at all, 30 minutes in factory standard. I will certainly get round to the curve at some point. Cheers for the feedback
Thanks for the video! It's very helpful! What exactly settings do I have to change as I find that the water in the shower is not hot after one person shower so when the second person wanna take a shower the water is not hot anymore.
My Ecodan has previosly been able to heat hot water to 53 degrees without using the immersion heater. But now during the summer when its 25+ degrees outside, it has started to use immersion heter between 50-53 degrees. How can this be? Is it becoming to hot? The flow water in the system looks to be 65 degrees when the immersion kicks in. Why does it go so high? Perhaps better to heat water during night when air temp is cooler?
Hi Baxtexx, do you have solar pv assistance on your property ? if so does this feed back into the hot water cylinder via an Iboost system or equivalent? The immersion will be used, specially on an R32 Unit. if your heat pump model starts with PUZ on the model number outside then this is completely normal, during summer months the unit is calculating weather or not the immersion is actually cheaper to run in order to heat the last little bit of the tank, rather than the heat pump running during warmer weather and causing issues with the compressor. believe it or not, this function happening is actually cheaper in the long run.
Thanks for your reply! No I don't have anything solar related at all. My model is: :Outdoor: WM85 YAA, Indoor: EHPT20X. It does indeed use R32. Is it really cheaper? The display reports that this process results in COP 1.5 which seems quite bad? Yesterday I actually scheduled it to run during night/morning instead when it was about 16 degrees outside. This time, no immersion was used at all and it claimed to be at 2.7 COP which is significantly better.
Great video thanks. Would you suggest using "large" option for a 210ltr tank, 8 5kW ASHP in a 2-storey house with 3 kids, 2 adults? Also, the DHW max temp is set to 50degC and drop of 10 but it gets down to 23ish before it starts warming and uses a lot of power. Any ideas? We have PV panels and a battery
100% Set your tank setting to large, and also ignore the 23ish drop your relating to, the sensors on the pre plumbed cylinders are extremely slow to react, althought this says 23 on the main Rc, we actually find its just a delay in reading the correct temp when the pumps kick in.
Fantastic videos thanks you so much, I'm a newbie to this but learning lots from your videos 🙂Can I ask why my dhw heater used the immersion heater ( I think near the completion of the cycle)when only heating the water to 45c it was 14c outside and I had it set to heat the water at 11pm just in case that makes a difference, water temp had dropped to 35c before the cycle came on ad it took about 30mins for the water to reach 45c. Also would setting the dhw to 'eco mode' prevent this from occuring again? Sorry for all the questions just trying to run this thing as efficiently as I can. ps the tank is 175 litres🙏
AHHH Thanks for your comment it is much appreciated, sounds like your having some serious issues, hope you can get this sorted soon ! maybe send the engineers attending our link to youtube -_-
Should the immersion be heating the water in tank or the heat source pump? The immersion symbol shows on my panel each time it comes on - set for a couple of hours each afternoon.
Hey, If your heat pump is on the R32 Gas, your immersion will be used on most hot water cycles as soon as it gets to around 48Degree tank temperature, another reason it may come on earlier than this is if the heat pump is struggling to build temperature quick enough within the tank, this could be down to installation error. another reason it will certainly come on, is if your hot water temperature is set to 56 degrees or above. Hope this helps.
Great video! Just a quick question: What can I do if I don't have a notepad button? How else can I access the settings? I've noticed this with the heating settings as well, and even the compensation curve display doesn't have the higher or lower settings for me. I would appreciate your assistance.
i have air sores and it’s always going wrong i tried to follow your step by step video but my box wouldn’t do what your one done i’m lost £27000 i spent on airsorce and solar panels And it’s gone wrong from day on i’m 80 and have no hot water or heating and i’m disabled
Hi Nerby, This is a rather low temp drop, I would say that the recharge time is being held of by the restricted time of 30 minutes. this is why the tanks not kicking in. or it is set to a timer and outside of these times.
@@renewableheatingengineer8537 I’m having the same problem. My cylinder keeps going to 29C or even lower while the DHW is set to 50 with a 5C drop setting. Should the recharge time be higher or lower? I’ve played with it but it doesn’t seem to make a difference.
@@JacobIspas hi Jacob, your recharge time should be set lower or to its minimum at 30 minutes, just a thought... do you by any chance have the Mitsubishi pre plumbed cylinder ? this can sometimes read a really low tank temperature as the cylinder stat is so low ( close to the cold main point ) meaning the slightest bit of hot water drawn off can make the sensor read a cooler temperature than what you actually have stored. this is why they dont allow the hot water recycle below 30 minutes
@@renewableheatingengineer8537 thanks for the reply. I’ve called a specialist to my place to resolve the problem. My guess is that the heat pump itself has an issue since my heating has also been very lacking lately. I’ll post what was my issue after.
@@JacobIspas please do, it will be interesting to see the issue, if heating temps are also lacking, that could be a refrigerant issue, although usually you would experience p8 fault codes with this. drop a comment in once its been diagnosed :)
Hi, Thanks very much for useful explanations. Keep em coming :-) About the Large setting, does that mean one need to have two sensor put into the tank? E.g. a 230 liter tank. Thanks..
Heya, yes, usually if you have a pre plumbed cylinder from Mitsubishi this will already have the top sensor installed. if its a 3rd party cylinder then you would need the additional installing.
Great video, but I have a question about the ASHP flow temperature and the DHW temperature. My understanding is that a typical flow temperature, from the ASHP, is 45 C, but you (and others) mention that if you go over 50 C then the immersion kicks in. Surely, the immersion, or some other electric heater, must kick in for DHW from about 40 C? I have allowed for a 5 C loss over the plate heat exchanger here. This would go some way to explain the woeful COP obtained during the summer months, which I observe on our Ecodan 8.5 kW system. Thanks Richard
Hi Richard, Generally speaking on the new R32 Model, this will usually bring the back up immersion on when it reaches around 48D tank temperature, this is because the unit is calculating which is cheapest and quickest to raise the remaining temperature. on most older R410A models, you can actually achieve a tank temp of 55 before the immersion is required. although its better to get your tank temp to around 50-53D to avoid this happening. its more an advisory for energy savings, some people like boiling water for their baths .. but its costly to get it to 60 from the heat pump. Fyi your fixed flow temp is different to your hot water flow temp, the unit will generally max out on hot water mode. Hope the above helps.
@@renewableheatingengineer8537 Hi, thank you for your reply. I did wonder if the hot water flow temp would be different from the fixed flow temp. Our system is the new R32 model, so turning the DHW down to 48 C seems like a possible solution, at least in the summer months. Don't think the better half would thank me in the winter. Thanks again Richard
This is brilliant video so many thanks. I have qq please.. I have my hot water on timer which comes on at 00:00 but if temp of water drops during the day what will happen?? The reason for asking is that I have noticed pump is always on even though heating is off and it's not the time to heat the water
Hey Discoparty, if your temperature drops outside of your desired times, your heat pump will not run to replenish the hot water, with regards to you saying your heat pump is running 24/7, is this just the pumps inside the property ? if so, this could be the anti freeze protection which is completely normal specially at this time of year with the colder weather. or it could simply be a setting on the controller known as fixed flow where the heat pump will always run to provide the set temperature.
Hi, Your video's are very good and helpful, actually better than the Ecodan ones ? I have a question if you can help ? The engineer was here last week to service the unit etc, ( 18 months since installation). He also altered the max tank temp which was a bit low, from 42deg up to 48deg which is now fine. However, now when I go into the hot water settings as on the video, there is no 'notepad' showing below the Tap icon ? only the Normal/Eco icon. consequently I am unable to check or alter any of the Max temp, Max Temp drop, run time settings ?? Can you advise Thanks
Hi Scott, make sure you are pressing and holding the engineers setting / note pad button from the main screen until it prompts you into the next menu, then you should see it.
Thanks for this very helpful video. We are a family of 4 with two little kids who barely use any water, but we have a 189L cylinder. I was actually trying to see if there was a way to heat up only a part of the cylinder and your video answers this well - however we seem to have the "old" unit as I don't see the standard option. Is there a way to get the newer unit? Apologies if it's a stupid question as I'm very new to all of this.
Never a stupid question as you dont know until you ask :) - the answer is Yes, you can get the newer unit, however the cost for this would be extreme, for little to no gain and wouldn't warrant the cost in my opinion. You could however, drop your hot water temperature to 48Degrees for example, this would effectively work in the same principle, as the hot water will shut of quicker, but you wont notice a massive difference in temperature. this will make the unit run less as the hot water sensor will shut the heat pump off quicker, but because heat rises.. the top of the tank will still be warmer than 48Degrees :) its a good way of saving energy if you really dont use that much hot water. if you found that you are running out, then you can always boost the hot water for an hour or increase the temperature again.
Hi great video!!! Just wondering if u could help Ecodan set to standard when calling for hot water set at 50 keep starts fine then after a few mins keep switching from air unit to immersion to heat water, timed it today and took 3 hours to complete cycle 🙈🙈 which was at 25% already any help b much appreciated any way of stopping the immersion from kicking in
@@leshutch3166 heya, did reply on your other message, I think you may have either a flow problem, or the heat pump isn't providing the heat required, this is the only reason this would be happening. Where abouts are you based ?
Hi there fella, I onow im late to the party, hut firstly, great video 👌🏼 Secondly, I have my hot water on timed, so its heated up during the cheap rate electricity (1am - 4am) but ive discovered that even in timed mode, the air source will kick to replenish the hot water, when I've had a bath, regardless of being in the timed mode. Does this have something to do with the temp drop (water set to 50 degree's with a 10 degree drop) & if so, hows best to deal with this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks
Hi, thanks so much for these videos! We just got our ASHP installed and this is so much help. We have a question: is it true that if I set a timer to turn the system off completely overnight, then when it has to bring the water/heating up to temperature from a low starting point, this would cause the heat pump to wear out faster? / Would it use more energy that way?
Hey Francis, it wouldn't necessarily cause it to wear out quicker, however, take into consideration it's easier for the heat pump and quicker to achieve your hot water temperature if it only needs to increase by 10 degrees or so. Depending on what your temperature drop is over night in the tank it's self. Some people only lose 7 degrees or so over the evening because their hot water tank is in a well insulated area, others lose 20 if their hot water tank is in the garage not insulated for example. Quite a few variables to take into account, my opinion, if your tank is in a well insulated area, it wouldn't make a difference if you turned it off over night on a timer.
Hi, can you please explain: My space heating is off (set temp is lower than actual room temp) - then the hot water production starts but it seems to also pump hot water to the space heating radiators increasing the room temperature even further. What could be the reason for this?
Hey @Janventer6410 - This could be 1 of 2 things, if you have an older version Ftc panel . i.e version 4 - sometimes after completing the hot water, the 2 port or 3 port valve will move to the open position, this is to remove any excess heat from the primary circuit, thus causing some radiators to warm up. - The 2nd and most common cause is that you have a faulty 2 port or 3 port valve, which is slightly open to the heating circuit when hot water is in demand, this would need to be replaced. I hope this information helps.
@@renewableheatingengineer8537 -Hi, first off - great videos, they have been really helpful. I think I might have the faulty 2 port issue you described above. Is there a simple way to detect this or do I need a heating expert callout ?
Hi Kate, We are based in Lincolnshire however do cover the surrey area, usually booked in advance once we have 3 Jobs on the same day due to travel. We would be happy to discuss this further if required. enquiries@enviroheatingteam.com Cheers Dan
Thanks for the video it is extremely helpful. However, I have a problem in that the actual hot water temp is not shown on the main screen. The water emp is set at 48 but this morning it was almost boiling. What could be wrong?
We had this problem - it turned out the thermostat probe in the tank was faulty (it never worked properly with our iBoost and kept overheating). Thankfully, as this was within the first month of it being installed, the plumbers came back and swapped it over - no more problems
if this is ran through the main Ftc panel then yes it does, however, this does not mean its running 24/7, it just means its on and ready to be used when the unit calls for legionnaires cycle, or if you was to put the unit into emergency mode
Thanks for tour video. Can I please ask question. I have set my water heating similarly, however. Every time water is reheating it starts with bolt on the screen and immersion. When I stop it and re start it than starts with heat pump and heat all way through until reach set temperatures. Can I just ask what could be the reason for immersion? Any help will be appreciated.
does it show a padlock symbol at the top of your controller when you press the notepad button? if it does, press and hold the tick button and return button together. this will remove the lock, you can then use the controller as seen.
Hello, my tank isn’t keeping the hot water it keeps dropping and I can’t have a hot bath it comes out lukewarm. I have changed all the settings the same as your videos but I can’t work out why I don’t have hot water upstairs. Keeps dropping to between 16-40 degrees and doesn’t stay that temperature. Please help
Hi. During this cold snap the anti-freeze system is kicking quite a bit, which as I understand it involves the water pump next to the hot water cylinder being on while the outside temperature is 5 degrees or below, so that the water in ahsp doesn’t freeze. However, the temp of the water in the cylinder seems to be dropping quite significantly during these periods. Is this how it should be?
Hi Marko, Eco mode allows the unit to run at a slower rate whilst in hot water operation, where as during normal operation it will deliver a quicker hot water recycle time.
@@zlmdragon. sounds like there may be a delay with the THW5 sensor which is effectively your hot water sensor, although on the controller it will show 49-51 as youve mentioned, it may actually be sending a signal back to say its at the 10 degree drop point, to test this theory, decrease your temperature drop to -15 and see see if this then delays the heat pump coming on to recycle. if it does .. the THW5 Sensor needs replacing. although for what it is, I would just keep the maximum temp drop to 15 to allow for that delay. hope this helps.
My water temperature dropped down to 10℃ and it stayed like that for 2 days, suddenly on the second day the water started heating up again. My water always drops around 10℃, but usually it just heats it back up without much delay.
when you say it dropped to 10c, do you mean actual tank temperature or did it drop 10c below your asking temperature ? might just have been coincidence you saw it so low before it kicked in
