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Mixed Climbing in Switzerland 

Jon Murua
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Laélian Schaeffert & Jon Murua
Leysin Contournable, Tour d'Aï West Face
TD+ M6+
Winter ascend of this delicate and sustained mixed climbing route on solid limestone of the Swiss pre-alps, Vaud.
Transcript:
Today, we are going to visit a local mountain, the Tour d'aï.
It's only 2000 metres high, but it offers some fun mixte climbing routes in a solid limestone and frozen turf.
It's a good place to train before engaging in more alpine routes as it's very well bolted and the access is straight forward by the ski slopes.
There is a new topo coming up describing the routes in the area. There are multi pitch routes on the North Face and the West Face and a dry tooling crag on the East face called le Mayen or Leysin. So I suggest you wait until the topo gets published.
We were surprised with plenty of snow on the approach which got us pretty warmed up before starting the climb.
The route was covered on snow so we had to clean it to find the holds.
This is rather tiring, but it's part of the game in winter climbing.
There are 4 pitches, out of which 3 are pretty sustained.
The holds are good, specially the frozen turf which gives a fantastic feeling of security.
It's delicate climbing, quite steep, but it doesn't get overhanging.
The difficulty is mainly due to the small holds which require good technical skills.
We got to the top smoothly, but wanting more.
We'll be back!
Have fun and stay safe!
Music credits:
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2 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 18   
@laszlobencesimon7743
@laszlobencesimon7743 3 года назад
Please do Eiger North face! You provide the best climbing content on RU-vid, and I wold really like to see a documentary of one of the Great North Faces.
@jonmurua
@jonmurua 3 года назад
Haha, hopefully that will come next autumn. Fingers crossed for the conditions!
@benwilkinson5457
@benwilkinson5457 3 года назад
Agree
@khrumkashan6954
@khrumkashan6954 3 года назад
Thank you John, awesome videos.
@physiosoins2416
@physiosoins2416 3 года назад
Gran vídeo!
@jeztv9014
@jeztv9014 3 года назад
Jon as always a great video...cheers me up on another lockdown day 😆😢😂
@akisg6959
@akisg6959 3 года назад
Pppp
@akisg6959
@akisg6959 3 года назад
Pppp
@JamesBeilharz
@JamesBeilharz 3 года назад
Picks will need a sharpen after that
@gt4joe
@gt4joe 3 года назад
How do you find the ergonomics over the normal nomics? Looked like the steeper handle got in the way!
@jonmurua
@jonmurua 3 года назад
I have mixed feelings about the new ergonomics. The steeper angle didn't get in the way, but the swing feels awkward. They are very stable, specially in small holds offering a nice feeling of security. They are quite heavy though which result in harder to move them around and sore forearms and shoulders at the end of the day. I think they are good for this type of mixed terrain, but not that good for ice and definitely not for North faces.
@gt4joe
@gt4joe 3 года назад
@@jonmurua I agree with the awkwardness, that's what I was trying to get across.
@The00khall
@The00khall 2 года назад
When are you coming to Scotland for the mixed climbing jon
@jonmurua
@jonmurua 2 года назад
When the sun shines over there 😂 Jokes aside, I'd love to come at some point!
@m5645n
@m5645n 3 года назад
Macht man das so, eispickel ohne schlaufe verwenden?
@jonmurua
@jonmurua 3 года назад
When climbing short routes, I don't carry the leashes, but in alpine terrain I always do. Dropping an ice ace there would mean the end of the day, but I could recover the ice axe on the way down. In alpine terrain, dropping an ice axe could mean to be blocked unable to go up or down creating a dangerous situation.
@marcobenetton4065
@marcobenetton4065 3 года назад
Were you already not wearing a mask at the ski centre?
@jonmurua
@jonmurua 3 года назад
No, the mask is mandatory
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