Model Factory Hiro 1/12 1967 Ferrari 330p4 

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Thanks! It’s one of my favourite kits I’ve built. 15 MFH kits? Wow!! Heaven😀.

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Thank you for your kind comment. The real art is the design of the Ferrari 330 - it must be one of the most beautiful sports cars ever!

Thanks for your kind comment :-)

Thank you. Much appreciated.

Thank you kindly

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Hi and thanks for the kind comment. Rivets - yes!! I did buy them all (900+ were needed) but I was fortunate that I found someone selling a load of them and I bought all he had for a good price! - otherwise i don't think I would have done it. The rivet positions were marked (you could leave it as it is, unriveted, and it would still look good), so drilling wasn't too much of a problem - but time consuming. And trimming the rivet stems so they don't protrude inside the bodywork. Don't be put off the build because of the rivets - there were far trickier parts to the build than the rivets! And, there was no problem painting and lacquering after riveting - and any polishing needed was straightforward. If you achieve a good paint and lacquer finish then not much polishing is needed anyway. I'm currently building the 250LM. I won't be doing a full rivet job! Have fun!

Thanks for your helpful reply John. I wonder if there's a home solution for the rivet marks like gluing poppy seeds or something like that, who knows? So that's not the only tricky part of the build, ha? lol. I wish there was more of a selection in available kits for this subject. I have a 1/24 fujimi 330p4. The rivets are tiny on that body and i'm worried about how easy it would be to sand them off during the body prep work. I'll probably start that one soon before I pick up anything else. Once again, thanks for showing the inspiring build! It's awesome! I salute you.

@@jgsu27 Thanks again. I know there are 'rivet making machines' out there, but I've never used one. There are ways of making plastic rivet heads as well. For me, the problem in simply placing rivet heads would be too tricky - I'm not skilled enough - although I know there are plenty of modellers out there who do it, especially aircraft and military modellers. Using actual rivets is far more accurate (for me) - but expensive. With your 1/24 Fujimi kit (which is a fab model) yes, I agree, sanding/prepping the body could easily affect the rivets. But....have fun anyway. Cheers.

Excellent!

Thank you

Hi. For the various washes for different parts of the model, I basically start with a few mls of Tamiya Acrylic thinner and add to it small drops of colour of Tamiya Acrylic paint to get the shade I'm after. For 'yellow' effects I often use Clear Yellow and/or Clear orange. I usually add Semi Gloss Black as well to give a dirty look. But it's really trial and error. I don't buy or use and pre-made washes. These Acrylic mixes dry very quickly. Hope this helps.

Thank you!

Thank you. Most of the metal chassis pan structure is not painted - I sanded it to achieve the finish I wanted and then used a thin wash to add some realism. The cooling parts were prepared in the same way. The 'shiny' engine parts (like the heat shields, oil and fuel tanks etc) were sanded and polished to achieve the finish.

@@defenderjohn9972 Who did you get the rivets from? What size and type of head?

@@tomaszzamiara1180 I already had the rivets in stock ( I had bought them in bulk (at a good price!) - at 6.10 on the video you will see the rivet packets - if you Google MFH P1008 rivets you will see the size of the rivets and where to buy. Hope this helps.

Thank you. The suspension is fixed. Springs are real and the hubs rotate, but I don't think that the soft metal construction of the kit would allow it to articulate.

Hi again. It’s a while since I built this model, but if I remember rightly there were some issues with the fit of body panels ( not unusual with MFH) so some reshaping with gentle heat probably did happen, along with careful shaving of resin to achieve a fit. I remember the inner door sills on the body recess were a pain to get right as well. But with patience, care and test fitting it all worked out ok. The metal window frames etc needed a lot of shaping and test fitting. A bit frustrating bearing in mind the cost of the kits, but what I will say is that the end product is really satisfying and MFH are superb and so realistic when finished. I’ve built several newer MFH kits since this one and with each newer kit the build quality improves significantly. Have fun!

Thank you for your kind comment.:-)

Thank you. But, no the kit does not include all the extra rivets. Fortunately I was lucky to be able to buy some cheaply!

@@defenderjohn9972 nice, thanks for the information! I just bought one like this to build and I'm trying to find references and photos. I'm sorry but I have to ask if you have some to help me. Again, congratulations for your work.

Hi and thanks for your kind comment. The floor panels are kept as the original metal kit parts - but buffed to give a slightly dull finish and then black was airbrushed on the tubular parts to give a ‘shadow’ effect. I tried to get a ‘dirty’ metal finish.

@@xbn999 That's awesome! i ordered one and it's on the way! can't wait. what buffing wheel did you use for metal? I use normal wool for plastics

Thank you :-)

Thank you. But unfortunately no - it doesn't come with all those 'extra' rivets. I had a stash of them which I had had for a while.

Obrigado! Thank you.

Hi and thanks. The rivets I used can be seen at 6.15 on the video. They are 1mm diam head, 0.7mm diam shaft. I used these because I had a stock of them! I think, maybe, a size a little smaller could have been better - but overall I was happy with the appearance.

@@defenderjohn9972 Thank you :)

The year before Amon ‘won’ Le Mans along with McLaren in the GT40 in the famous Ford vs Ferrari battle.

Thanks. I get what you mean about your opinion on the rivets (and I have commented on this in a previous question). A couple of things though - the rivets on the 'original' are actually quite prominent - and, the actual bare rivets here are to scale, but of course when you prime and then paint several coats over rivets you start to run into scale problems with paint - paint isn't scale thickness! So, we end up with painted rivets gaining bulk. Looking at the model in real life (which I can do) the rivets look much less prominent than in a photo taken under photographic lighting. Have you tried this drilling/riveting/painting - be interested to know how you deal with it. My model making skills reach a bit of a ceiling here. Cheers.

Thank you!