Model Railroad HO Scale Build - Walthers Plant #4 HO Scale Building Construction 

I am glad you found them pleasant, that was the goal! Appreciate the feedback.

Thanks for the comments.

What happened to this guy?

You bet, I am glad I could be of help. I am a bit slow sometimes to reply, I dont get on the computer everyday. Thanks for the comments once again!

Tony, I am glad I can help. I know I could have used video's like this when I was getting started! Enjoy all you like!

I will do that. I have learned more from the guys on here than anyone or any where. The instructional videos are a blessing to me. I lack the knowledge, and now thanks to you I have a vast network of friends and model railroaders like my self to learn from.Thanks for turning me on to this, I owe you one.When are you moving? Tony

Hey Tony, we are counting down the days, it will be within the next few weeks and I will be out for a while during this time. I hope to get back in line again once we get settled.

Cheers! Thanks for the comments and glad you found something useful to use.

Thanks Glen, I have a few more you might also like, people seem to really like the mine video.

Thanks! Check out the new river mine video, its got a lot to

Thanks Andy, appreciate you leaving the feedback on my video's. There are a few more also.

Hello Rueben, thanks for the comments and more over, your concern. I have been away for a few years now due to my son having cancer, he is still in treatment and we get closer to him being put back together inch by inch. We have recently moved into a new house that may give me room to possibly put some more video's together but priority is my son right now. I do miss it and really miss the modeling as well. Glad you enjoy the video's and some day maybe I can get some more up here.

@@ModelerManMike I am very sorry to hear about your son. Thank you for taking the time to get back to me. Completely unexpected, but very appreciated. Family always comes first. I wish nothing but the very best for you and your family. You seem like one of the good guys.. one of the few channels I've ever commented on. I'll keep watch reruns of your builds. When you do come back.. I'm sure itll be great. Take care "ModelerMan"

@@ruebenglab4939 Some day, would be great to get a model put together. We'll see, thanks for staying in touch and look forward to seeing some of your work as well.

You bet, you know, I struggled with this for so long getting this down and now, its just so easy to do. So many of my buildings should have been done this way. I would be very reluctant to start a brick detailed model due to not being able to get realistic looking brick, these days are over! Glad these video's are helpful and that you enjoy them!

ModelerManMike I've seen you do brick in two ways. 1, with the thin white acrylic paint and the other using white chalk mixed with alcohol. Which do you think works best? I did the chalk/alcohol on my train station model and that worked pretty good. I guess whatever works. Thanks again. I learn so much just watching you make stuff and there's a lot of "hey I can do that".

HOTrain Novice I dont think I have ever captured using chalks with alcohol, but, I can tell you from experience in doing both, the water based acrylic with a touch of glass cleaner works the best. Using chalks it has a tenancy to be a bit splotchy to me. There is a bit of technique to getting the water and paint mixed about right and takes constant stirring during the application. Its really the easiest and best looking way I have found to do this and I have tried many.

Simon Waite glad you like them simon.

Thanks for the comments! Glad you enjoyed it. You might find the other video's on my channel a good watch also, people really seem to enjoy the mine video.

I think it would work as one! Thanks for the comments.

Any new videos? @@ModelerManMike

@@josephtaf5507 Not as of yet, but hopefully in the near future. Check this out patreon.com/ModelerManMike

If you like this one, you may also like some of the others I have on my channel. Check out the Mine video, people seem to really like that one. Thanks for the comments and the compliments.

Thanks James, I try! :)

Hey! Thanks for the comments. There are not to many out there, I said the same thing when I wanted to watch some and felt that making some would inspire others to make some. They take some time to put together and put up. Its been a while since I have made any but hope to get to some more in the future.

Thanks Jim.. :) I do appreciate the comments and compliments!

You're welcome!

How did yours come out?

ModelerManMike Ok, but not as good as yours. I did lights in mine.In about a week I'll have a new video out and it will probably be seen.

Thanks Deryk..

Glad this worked for you, thank you for the comments!

Hey, this is a great suggestion for a standard unlit building, however, I am going to light these buildings and I want to have the light through the windows. I found that using yellow masking tape and white masking tape work well to. I need to work on this some more of course, but in all, the light through the windows with masking tape as more of a blind or something really looks good. Maybe soon I can get something up on this with some lighting to show how this looks, it really looks good. Thanks so much for the compliments, they are very much appreciated and I really enjoy hearing idea's and you my friend are sending some. Thanks for that.

I Have painted just the top part for the shade and left the bottom clear with lighting and it looks pretty GOOD?!!

Thanks for the comments.

Thanks for the compliments! If you like this, you might like the others on this channel.

Thanks for the compliments! This video really doesnt get much traffic, I am not sure why. Its good you found your way here though, I liked this build, its a nice lil building I think.

Hey Ethan, thanks for the compliments. This little building was really a quick easy build, of course HO but it was a quickie. It did turn out nicely I think, its really kind of small but it blends in really nice with other buildings to. If I had thought of it, I might have built the other panel with this and connected it for a longer background building. I may still do this as well. I have a few other build video's you might like including the other one we were talking about the NL&P building. Appreciate any feedback and of course, a builder yourself any suggestions are always welcome!

I really appreciate you taking the time to reply to my comment! Like I said your building skills are very inspiring, I'm looking forward to seeing much more. Thanks again for sharing! Ethan

efitter7 You bet! I hope to have another one up very soon! :)

Thanks John!

You got it

Thanks William!

+Memphis FahmiDepay Thanks for the comments!

Thanks Steve! I have a few of these build video's, have you seen them?

Still alive, just no where to build right now :( I went with HO for that reason, N scale is a great scale for making a miniature large area, miles of fun, but making the scenery and structures are not so easy with hands like mine.

@@ModelerManMike ahh ok so assuming you don't have a layout right now? I am finally about to start building a smaller one after years of collecting. Hopefully you get to start building again soon.

@@TruthBlitzMedia Right, no layout. I have a large collection to just waiting on a location! Good luck and put up a channel to document your build!

@@ModelerManMike same problem I always had. I have been collecting N scale everything on and off since I was 13 and I am now 37! Never had a big enough place to build the layout I always envisioned. Only recently did I suck it up and decide to not wait until I get a house with a basement and go for a smaller layout. I will definitely be documenting the build on RU-vid starting after Christmas. Thanks Mike!

@@TruthBlitzMedia Looking forward to following your progress on your N Scale stuff, be sure to let me know when you get your first video posted, I will check from time to time to.

Thanks for the compliments! I am planning to do some sort of bash with this extra piece it should be interesting!

Hey Frank, did you happen to sub my channel? I appreciate the compliments and I do hope to continue to produce these until atleast I feel I have covered everything. I am building the majority of these buildings for a future layout. They of course would look great on a diorama. thanks for the comments!

Thanks Chuck, from one builder to another, your comments are very appreciated. :)

Most all the paint I use is a water based acrylic, anything should work I would think. thickness is the key tho, so when you mix it, you want it mix well, the cheap stuff sometimes doesn't mix as well. There are a few other brands that work well, one called American I think. Just look for water based acrylic and you should be good to go!

Thanks

Hello Moose, thanks for the compliments, they are much appreciated. The "Glue" is actually a solvent based product that melts the plastic together. The product I am using is made by a German company that makes modeling adhesives and models called Revell. The chalk is, if I am understanding you the powders used to weather the models is actually ground rust, its made by a company named Bragdon, they produce weathering powders for models. Also in some videos you may see crayola pencils used to weather and detail models also. As far as not being able to hear, just so you know you arent missing much at all, you can see way more in the video's that explain much better than I can express through speech.

@@ModelerManMike thank you for a most awesome reply! ^^

@@MoosesWorkshop You bet, anytime!

Hello Loren, wish I had a really quick answer. This model is a background building, when I built it, I didn't think much about the windows really. I probably should have sealed it with dullcote then added the windows. I did look at this model and the windows have a nice "film" on them from the sealer. I didn't have dullcote on this model and used some clear matte spray. I don't use the clear matte spray anymore just because it seems to destroy a lot of the weathering I do. I think on many of the models I do, including many that I do not do video's on, I have stopped using a sealer all together. Good example is the Coal Mine, I just didn't use any sealer dullcote or matte finish at all. The weathering powders look much better without being sealed I think. Some of the smaller models I built over the past couple of years I plan to go back a dullcote them covering the windows. I used a matte finish (or so it said it was matte) and they have a horrible sheen on them that look like they are wet! you can see some of these buildings in another video : Model Buildings: HO Scale Buildings Comments and Review. In all, now with the understanding of how the finishing coat will work on the powders, chalks and pastels I use, I may or may not seal the model with a finishing sealer. If I have a lot of weathering, I just dont seal it, if I plan to seal it I will add the windows after its sealed. Loren, I hope this answers your question, if not let me know ok! Mike

ModelerManMike Thanks for the thoughtful response. The wonderful aspect of this hobby is that it is very forgiving. If you do not achieve the results hoped for you can almost always just do it over. I personally know that I have some buildings that need windows replacement.

The glue is actually a solvent that melts the plastic together, be sure to clean the paint by masking before paint or scraping after its painted or the solvent will not work as well. I dont see any reason that the make up wouldn't work. Just thinking about it does it not contain oils for skin though? If so, this might could cause problems much later as the model ages or when using other modeling products maybe? Not sure but it sounds like something to try. If your looking for cheap, you might look around for an old shovel or some metal anything that is rusted and simply start scraping that off. You can also find different shades on the same shovel I bet! Just gotta grind it down is all. Real rust is completely dry and no additives at all. Crushed ground leaves are also a good source I think. But all good stuff and idea's, thanks for the comments, much appreciated.

@@ModelerManMike Yes, Mike, I do use real rust for my rust. I take about 2 rolls of 0000 fine steel wool and put it into a quart jar and cover the steel wool with white vinegar. I set it in the kitchen window (the one that gets plenty of sunlight) and leave it there until most of the steel wool is consumed by the vinegar (usually shake it occasionally); leave it there for about a month. After that I pour the mixture into a glass square or rectangle baking dish my wife gave me to use for my modeling. I then put the mixture in my closet and leave it until it completely dries out. I then use a single edged razor blade scraper and scrape it from the dish and pulverize it with my razor blade until it's a fine powder. I store it in small containers like snuff cans or tins. When I want to use it I mix the powder with some water, alcohol and Elmer's glue and add a couple of drops of water soluble glycerin. I then use it on my models. Sometimes I even gouge out the plastic some and use the rust mixture in the gouges. Nothing like simulating rust like real rust! You can vary the colors you get by the amount of time you leave it in the sunlight. I've gotten several colors or deep red to orange-ish colors from varying the time. You can make plastic look just like metal with my rust by making it up as a wash and using that on the model which gives it a metal appearance when dry.

It sure does work great, I used brush on for a while and moved to this, I like it. I am not sure if you can buy it in the states, I purchase it from ebay. another option is to get a solvent bottle with a needle tip, also from ebay.

Maybe I'll try that... I definetly need to do something different. I am tired of covering up my glue runs on my models they just look BAD!!!

Dee Troit, um, I dont think weathering powder would be enough here :) You know, I havent dont a broken window, but, I think it could be done easily by simply scoring the material to indicate a crack and actually cutting it for a break. to highlight the break, a bit of gray paint maybe. You have me thinking on this one, I will surely work something out for you.. And, probably a couple more weeks and its on to the lightkit! :)

Eric, I just wanted you to know that I have really been putting a lot of thought into this. I will do some experimenting and playing around with some detriot looking buildings and see what I can come up with for you. Do you have a picture of a building or can you get one you want to replicate? that would be a great start. I have a left over piece from the plant #4 we could experiment with.

ModelerManMike Sure, google the Amtrack station in Detroit. It's a very prominent building in the downtown Detroit area. It reportedly is being restored by a local wealthy business owner, Mady Malone, or something like that. Or you could just google Detroit buildings. The old Amtrack station is a historic building. I will also get back with you on the lighting project. Still interested in pursuing those ideas once I get free time. ~Eric

I use mostly the revell brand for most everything. Its actually not a glue, its a solvent that melts the parts together. You can get just about any type of solvent, most all works fine. I like the revell because of the needle applicator. I have purchased also, solvent from ebay with needle bottle applicators that are solvent safe. If you looke on the web for best solvent for evergreen styrene you will find all the info you are looking for as to how to get your stuff built. Hope this helps.

wish I could, it would be a big seller, imagine having all that great stuff in a can. Glad you enjoyed it, have a good one.

Sometimes I do but its rare. I think the dullcote takes away from the dusty appearance of the chalks. some do spray it though and dont complain. I would suggest trying it both ways and see what you may like. In all, I would say no! Hope that helps James!

+Werner Sievers Die 1 2 3 Blöcke sind tatsächlich von Maschinisten der Arbeit mit Metall verwendet . Sie arbeiten für unsere Modelle aber perfekte Größe und gute Gewichts groß.

The models are made of plastic, the glue used is a special type of glue. Its actually a solvent the slightly melts the parts so they bond together. There are several types of glue out there, I use solvent, they also have a cement glue. Search in google for plastic model solvent, glue, cement. I hope this helps.

Hey 5d, sorry so long to reply, just ran across this. I hate it when that happens. I have frosted windows so many times using super glue on stuff I lost count! I usually just replace the window material unless its really thick stuff. If its really thick, I have actually sanded it off, then, using like 1000 grit, 2000 grit and 3000 grit paper through the entire process to buff cleans it up. I only spend that time on windows that are specific to a model though. If I can come up with any way to replace them, this is usually what I do.

Thanks for the reply! :D I think I will try taping my windows in from now on instead of using glue. Seems that no matter what, even if the glue isnt on the window when I apply them, they frost up on me. So taking the glue out of the equation will hopefully remedy the problem. All my windows are made out of the clear plastic containers from Peco Electrofrog turnouts, so I got plenty of the stuff!

If you get a chance, post some pics on the community, I would like to see how they come out.

ModelerManMike will do, though i am not heavy into social media, which community? Model Railroader forum? or do you have a facebook community for followers?

Here you go, check this out... plus.google.com/u/0/b/107934973242857840131/communities/104964959974656005095

The powders I use are from Bragdon enterprises. Good stuff, I really like them. Thanks for the comments Jim.

Thank you I've been looking for some weathering powders

There are so many brands to choose from.

I think most of this was done with a revell brand. Its actually a solvent that melts the plastic together. You can find it online, Ebay, Amazon I think. I use this mostly because of the applicator, its thin and can reach nicely into models. Hope this helps, thanks for the comments and compliments.

Hey DunkOnDunks, can you tell me what point in the video you see the bottle? I will surely look for you. There is so much here, not sure what bottle your talking about.

ModelerManMike The glue bottle you apply the glue to windows and edge of walls. Lil blue bottle.

ModelerManMike 2:57

ModelerManMike You said in another video. "Revell Glue'

Oh, that is a brand of glue sold in germany, I am not sure if it is sold in the states. I like this glue though, it dries slow and really doesnt hold as good as some of the other glues, if I make a mistake, most times I can just pull apart the stuff. It also uses the small applicator. Check local hobby shops and see if you can find it, I think its usually sold for model plastic planes and cars. Let me know if you find some in the states, would be curios to know.

Hello Zebulon, this would really depend on the model, if it has detachable windows and the like. Can you dissasemble the model? If not, to answer your question in short, yes, you can redo a model that has already been assembled and painted. it would however require a lot of masking, masking the windows and doors for a shot of paint, then, masking off all the painted area to only expose the windows and doors and painting them. This is how I would do it. If you paint with a brush, the doors and windows, careful paiting you can cover the existing job on the model. dont be afraid to take it to the sink and wash it with soap and water before you try this! many models can be dissasembled, I build my models with glue that will allow me to do this. check out the other video's on my channel to see the paint and how I go about covereing the models with rattle can paint. this works well for me. Hope this helps, and, let me know how your project goes, I would be curious to know exactly what your working on and doing to understand the process you work through to make this happen!

I've only started building models in the last year or so. The buildings I have are already completely put together. I don't think I can disassemble them. The glue I use is Testers cement for plastic models. I know it says for plastic models, but when I applied it, it molds the edges together. I probably used the wrong kind of glue. They came out looking good though. I haven't painted the buildings, I didn't think about it until I came across your videos. I just need to figure out what kind of paint I need for cheap. Thanks.

Zebulon Pritchard Testers is great glue for this stuff, it really does bind. As most of the plastic glue for models really does do a great job making sure the parts dont come apart, some do allow for this. Most plastic glues are actually a solvent that melts the pieces together, so, what your doing is joining the plastic pieces by melting them together and hence the strong bond that doesnt come apart! :) If your looking for paint to paint the assembled models just about anything will do if its not some finger paints or something :) pick up some water based acrylic, American sells some good stuff that you can pick up at craft stores like michaels or even some hobby shops, just ask the attendant for some decent craft water based acrylic and that will get you started. you may see some of this in my video's sometimes. I do the window seals with a water based acrylic as well, you can see this being mixed on my worktable. The thing about this cheaper paint though, it is sometimes difficult to hide brush strokes and things like this, I usually resort to spray paint and masking where ever I can. A good thing about water based acrylic though is if you catch it before it completely dries, you can wash it off, its harder to take off after it dries a day or two though. For the ultimate look in painting though, you might want to look into modelers paint, this is high quality really nice smooth paint like creme and goes on woderful, for a perfect paint job, I will go to this stuff but it isnt cheap, upwards of 5-6 per 1-2 ounces.

Okay. It sound that I have been using the correct glue. I figure that as long as the building come together with no problems everything is fine. I will check in to a craft store and see what I can find when it comes to the paint. Thank you for the advice and assistance in helping me in the right direction for my projects. If I need anything else, if it's not to inconvenient, I will message you. Thanks again.

Zebulon Pritchard Your very welcome, I like the chance anytime to talk to a fellow modeler. Good luck with your build!

Hey James, I find the powders the easiest. They all have their place though.

+G Alan I get these from ebay, they work great to! If you build much I would recommend them highly. Search for "1x2x3 block" or machinists blocks. Hope this helps.

no. we move around a lot with the military

Hey James, I have used them but its been a long time. The simple truth is, wash's can be easily made by mixing thinner with the color of paint you want. If its a water based paint, mix water. Once you thin it down to the desired wash, it works just the same. To answer the question though, I havent seen this brand of wash, but there are several manufacturers that sell wash's. Are you wanting only this brand?

I sure dont know, they are solid steel (less the drill holes). Pretty heavy, perfect for modeling.

ModelerManMike They are a tool of sorts used mostly by Machinist I used them during layout of steel material before building ( small electroplating cranes ). Used in clamping ( some of the holes are tapped for clamping ) , leveling. ect, when you need precise thickness, angles ( like Mike used to get good 90's ). 1-2-3 blocks mean the are exactly 1" x 2" x 3" in dimension . They also make a 2-4-6. They 1-2-3's usually weigh about 1 lb. each.

Nate Carpenter I'm not tho!

Cant please everyone all the time, you know you can mute it, I dont say much of anything anyway.