I remember watching my dad set 330 coni's with one hand when I was a kid and I couldn't wait to get older so I could do it like him. Well I'm 31 now and still can't do it like him. ha loving the trapping vids
Thanks for the great video, only real video on RU-vid where someone goes over the larger traps. Didn't realize how strong the 330 was. Just got 3 110's today cuz you said they were the most versatile for a short term situation, you're the best Mr. Canterbury!
Interesting perspective... I was surprised that you didnt mention the fact that these conibear traps, when laid flat on the ground will jump up and hold higher on the animals limb...much better hold if you get two points of grip...much better than a simple leg hold trap...very usefull trap
hey dave, love your videos. I am going to start trapping this coming season and have no prior experience or anyone to teach me. Your videos have been a great help in getting me a general understanding of trapping. I was wondering if you will continue to make videos during this coming trapping season. it would be great if you could. I very much appreciate all the knowledge you spread brother!
sorry im on my wifes acount.my name is matt and im trying to learn some bush craft and loved your show.i dont have the money to buy gear so im just watching for now but cant wait to get out in the bush.your the man.......
A couple of comments, Dave.... It doesn't hurt to wax a body grip trap. Any help keeping the mechanism from freezing is a plus in winter. To rely on those "safety catches" on 220's, 330's, etc, makes you a trusting soul. They will fail, and the trap WILL fire. A single, or pair of "safety grips" is the better way to do it. The "X" style trap setters do not always grab the springs well. The slip. Try something like a Gem Body Grip trap setter, much safer.
As always great info, and a good vid. One thing we do in our packs is skip the 110 and instead carry the 150 which is 5x5 and pretty close to the same weight. and then we also use 160s double spring 6x6. 2 of each size in the camp bags. In our trap bags we keep a dozen 150s , a dozen 160s and 2-3 of the 220s The whole focus is the weight vs size on our backs. If it was a mule's back it would be 220s and 330s lol
Awesome video, I am enjoying learning about trapping from Dave, This is something I never really learned about. Im getting ready to order some 110's soon, cant wait to try em out. Thanks for the knowledge brother, it is very cool of you to give these lessons for free!
Galen..... The dog centers into the traps trigger. The middle notch is usually the one most people use. If you want a more sensitive, or less sensitive setting, you can use one of the other two notches.
Maybe it has already been mentioned but you can set a 330 with a rope. I sure there are plenty of RU-vid videos demonstrating. I prefer the aluminum setter since it is also handy in setting strong long spring footholds, but the rope is much lighter and easier to carry. Check out the Beslisle conni's, the spring safeties are niiiiicceeeee. I've set the 330 Beslisle a lot and it's by far the strongest I've used.
the 110 worked wonders on the ground hog. I used the same sweet mellon that he tore up earlier as bait. Stuck the trap in the middle of the hole he had dug under my building foundation. baited each side of it and had him the next morning.
I once saw a documentary where a wildlife biologist used leg hold traps to capture foxes for a tagging program he was conducting. Every one of the dozens of foxes he caught was completely uninjured by the traps. So yes, leg hold traps do not injure animals if used properly.
Dave, there is a way to set the 220's with a rope... I work as a Wildlife control nuisance operator. We always carry the set tool in our trucks but, my boss showed me a way to set the trap with a rope. Just in case the tool broke or what ever. If your worried about weight in a a pack rope would be the way to go.
Dave, While totally not related to this video, this is the only way I could find to give you a heads up.....A while back you mentioned talking to Springfield about bringing back the M6 Scout Combo Rifle. Just saw a Jeff Quinn video and saw that Savage is remaking the Model 24. It is now called the Savage Model 42 combo. .22/410 with a polymer stock. Looks good.
I watched this video when you first posted it. I just bought a 110 conibear. lol Now I'm re-watching this vid as a refresher on how to set it. Not sure if I will ever use it. But I make my living from trapping lobsters. Anyway's I really appreciate all the video you make. Thank You!!!
The 160 body grip would be a good one to carry with you I think. Smaller than the 220 and it only has one spring. It would allow you the go after smaller critters but yet big enough you could catch some of the larger critters.
The springs on the 330 are enough to hurt you if your hand is in the way if it pops loose. Also, I found, for me, using a 1/4-3/8 rope and a Canadian(?) slip knot (knot on the long side) worked well to set the springs on mine. I was able to use my foot on the spring to pull them tight, then didn't have to hold them to set the safety. Just a thought. Mr. Beaver thinks they work well, but he ain't talking. ;)
Excellent Dave. You might want to look at "Conibear trapping part 2 Rope Set" here on youtube just as another way. I gave it a try and it works very well. Thanks for the video, I really like to see the different ways of doing things by different Pros.
A short piece of rebar or heavy steel hook from flat stock on the end of some para cord will set the traps easier and it is lighter and easier to carry than that big tool. Also you will be using your back muscles which are much stronger.
Dave you should have your blacksmith buddy make you a trap tool with a latch to hold your tool closed once your springs are set than if you had to work hands free you could, just an idea!!!
great video, safe and informative. any chance of a "on the water's edge video" in the next week or two, love the pole set up you made in that series. I heard you might be looking at the yo-yo auto reels?
Hello Dave, I dont mean to tell a man his business, But I know you like feedback. Just a friendly suggestion, When you do a video series. I recommend 2 things. 1. For a guy to watch your series strait thru, The video intro gets to be repetitive. after all its a series and each video picks up where the other left off. No need for an intro on each video, 2. Once you get them all uploaded make sure they are in a playlist, so that the viewer doesn't have to search for the next videos. Hope it helps.
Dave, are you going to be doing any more herbal medicine videos? How about edible/useful plant videos? Maybe some things that are good for bait? What about things you could use for a trap that isn't specifically manufactured that way? Like a more hardware store type of thing, "common man" might be the word for it.
Dave, Thank you for this series on trapping! I find it very interesting! You said you are taking an advanced trapping class. Does the same outfit put on a beginnng trapping class? I've always wanted to try my hand at trapping, but I don't know any more about trapping than a hog knows about Sunday! I've always felt the best way to learn would be from an experienced trapper, but I don't know one. My feeling is that trapping is one of those things that would be hard to learn from reading.
how would i set up a 110# conibear in the high desert juniper forests of New mexico? there is a bunch of tracks of coyotes but if I want to go for rabbits, how would I attract them into the trap? If you can do a trap video series demonstrating how to use the traps for different animals that would be great. I have been following your channel since your first video and have watched all the Dual Survival episodes. I have learned alot and I am hoping to be a future student of you school. Sean
When I'm out traping marten I use a rope to set my conibear 160s and belisle 160s. Search for Coniebear rope set method and you'll see. A light weight method in comparison to that tool.
A short piece of rebar or heavy steel hook from flat stock on the end of some para cord will set the traps easier and it is lighter and easier to carry than that big tool.
Dave, I like the video. However I think you're overlooking the fact that the body-hold trap was developed in part bc with the leg-hold the animal might have to gnaw its own limb off in order to escape.
I have bent my conibear traps snapping like that. They are a pain straightening back out. I use a wide soft board on the 330. 220 I use the setting tool to unload the spring.
Hi Dave, I looked at both the ODNR and the Oneida Victor Inc. websites. The largest set allowed in Ohio on land is a 5" inside jaw spread, the rest are water submerged traps. Oneida Victor sells Northwoods conibears both in 5"x5" #150 #155, which is said to be good for racoons, not much bigger than a #110-2, #120-2. Also, the 3 1/2"x 4 1/2" #50-2, #60-2 might be a little more narrower and lighter weight, more ideal for smaller game than the #110-2, #120-2 which is 4 1/2" x 4 1/2". Your thoughts?
would deff be a good idea to put 2-4 in your pack like ya said. i might have to go pick myself up a few of them now....... thanks for making me spend more money dave! lol
Hi Dave. In one of your earlier videos, you talked about using rat traps in your survival pack. The 110 looks much more effective and versatile. I assume you would recommend the 110 over the rat traps now, correct?
Thanks for the video.. I had picked up some 110's on ebay a few months back and never knew about dye'in the metal. I'm not a trapper by any means however my question is in the larger traps when you catch an animal how do you open it to get the animal out with out loosing a finger or take the stress out of the spring to remove them. Any advice/know how / video would be great.
Dave, what stops the sudden snapping of the trap (especially the large one) from rupturing the intestine in the animal? I'm not a trapper but I believe in my own state you are required to check traps every 24 hours. I'd imagine it'd only take an hour or so of wandering gut fluids to run any meat on any animal. Is this a problem with these traps or am I letting my imagination get ahead of me?
Dave, I'm enjoying the trapping vids, but I am curious about something. Is there any method of animal trapping you would consider inhumane or otherwise irresponsible? I ask so that I may avoid these practices (if possible). Also, thank you for alleviating some of my concerns regarding the conibear style trap(s) .
Hey Dave, I put a light layer of wax on my 110's for lack of dye to waterproof them, I know you say that you don't or shouldn't wax any conis but the 110s only sting if they snap you so I don't find dangerous
I've got 6 dozen 110's hanging in the barn now, 2 dozen 220's, no 330's tho, damn things scare me. But for all out meat production, you CANNOT beat the 110's, add 3-4 dozen snares and you and ur family will not go hungry, even in a suburban environment, IF you're semi capable.
hey dave it's a good that you made this video because people look up to you. so now the people how think traping is very bad have better under standing i hope thinks for that. it make my traping look better. :)
Hey Dave I have a dozen conibear's and I keep trying to set them by hand but I can't seem too make it am I just too weak or is it something that needs to be worked with, with new conibear's??
Obviously nobody is going to give you trouble if it's a survival situation, but don't you need a trapping license for anything else other than self-reliance?
