Modifying a boring bar (Carbide Shank) 

You should watch the Fireball Tools video :P *ducks*

Amen Brother!

A quality file is like what 30.00? If I have to replace it twice in my life because is “didn’t use it right”, it is what it is.

@@paulerenberger1286 I buy used ones for like a dollar per...it they are worn out I just soak them in acid...most of the time that fixes them.

Everything’s disposable for you kids. Back in my day, we had to make our own sandpaper from sand and paper, and if the sand fell off, you had to glue it back on. And God help the apprentice who asked the foreman for more sand.

@@8__vv__8 Ask for sand? We had to make our own sand by grinding rocks...

Oh no! Stefan is a scotch brite abuser.....

Get a marker pen and draw arrows on the scotchbrite and then you can use it in the corrent direction evsry time. All my scotchbrite pads and sandpaper squares have arrows drawn on them. So does my carpet mat, so I can walk through the doorway at the correct angle. I'm not going to mention my wife's tattoos...

@@wizrom3046 I know you're joking, but scotchbrite does seem to have a direction. If you want to put a finish on stainless steel then you have to start at one end and use the same piece of scotchbrite in the same orientation using one clean stroke with even pressure. If you turn it 90 degrees then you get a different cut and it looks different. We made some matte finish stainless backsplashes once and had to figure out how to get even finishes. We found out that direction and orientation of the pad was crucial to getting an even finish.

@@oldscratch3535 haha now I dont know if youre serious (and giving us cool info) or a master troll playing a prank. 🤔🙂

@@wizrom3046 I'm being serious. We tried putting a grain on polished stainless sheet metal and tried a few different methods to get an even result. We found that if you did a pass, then turned the scotchbrite 90 degrees then the next pass would look different. If you did a pass going away from you, and then one towards you, it would look different. It would catch the light differently. If you did evenly pressured strokes all going in one direction without changing the orientation of the scotchbrite then it would all look the same.

Bocking as dipping in a strong German lager?

@@super8hell I should not spell while drinking.

@@pontoonrob7948 expexially dirgking Bock

Especially that short of a distance of stick out.

It's a sad day when you have to accept your favourite file's best days are behind it.

PGS. Very good point.

As Stefan demonstrated in a video a few years back everything is made of rubber. Put an indicator on a vise jaw and clamp something up. The fixed jaw will move. How much depends a lot on the design of the vise.

Fancy seeing you here ;)

@@NML666 lol, ditto!!

two ways to increase the precision of the messurement or to judge it. (regarding the movement of the bars in the vise ): 1 put a bar with a bigger diameter in the vise, and messure the deflection. now you will almost read only the reading the movement in the vise. this is the offset, you can subtract from the other readings. 2 put the other end of the test indicator / magnet also on the bar you messure. so you will messure only the bar itself, regardless it moves in the vise

Did he file a range of materials? Lifting the file on the return stroke is only useful, in my experience, when filing materials which are comparable in hardness with the file.

Whats sleep? 😬

And the stiffness diminishes with age!!, See Fireball Tools and his experiments with filing, works on the back stroke just as well.

@@Dave.Wilson that's what she said toooo 😳😂

I've never heard of such a thing...I'd like to see that done

A chinesium solid carbide insert boring bar this size costs about €30. (Remember the business end is Chinese here also). Probably just the blank with coolant holes costs as much

Working on it 🙂

Yeah, but not by much, especially between different treatments of the same alloy. You're not going to find a steel with a 600 GPa modulus.

Although ferro-tic is really interesting...

Exactly right, sensible pragmatism beats petty and pedantic finger wagging any day.

I was hoping someone posted this. That said on such a hard material it's pretty much irrelevant, the file is going to get hurt whether it's dragged or not.

I have to mention that the demonstration fireball tool did was great but only applicable to modern off the shelf files. I inherited a couple dozen files from my great grandfather that where still brand new in the paper sleeve, if you drag these files the teeth will chip and you will kill the file in a couple of swipes. I absolutely murdered one because i wasn't thinking about it. They don't make things like they did 100 years ago, but in the case of files it might actually be a good thing. Now if you have a modern carbide file, then the old time methods still apply. Nothing like killing a $200 file in 2 seconds, only thing worse than dragging is dropping.

@@pcsmachineworks if the file is strong enough to cut metal going one way, how tf is it going to be damaged going the other way on the same metal? that sounds like some old wives' tales horseshite.

@@douglasharley2440 hard brittle materials chip easily, simple as that. The rest is basic metallurgy. When cutting the tooth is under compression and the force is directed into the tooth, this is when the material is the strongest. Dragging is just bouncing the tooth across the top and pulling the cutting edge away from the body of the tooth, the weakest for a brittle material. Spin a carbide endmill backwards once and try to cut with it, let me know what happens. Modern files are no where near as hard as the old hand made pieces where, and a solid carbide (not the crummy cheap grit ones) are even harder. I've smoked a few old files by dragging them, teeth stripped right off. Newer files are better metal which is more durable and slightly softer so not prone to the brittleness. Same as many other metals or materials. Well used punches and chissels chip at the strike end because they get hard and brittle, bandsaw blades with a lot of miles will shed teeth even though they are still sharp because they work harden and get brittle and chip off. Even concrete works in the same manner. No wives tales, just basic physics and science. Every one revered a file with such regard back in the day because each tooth was hand formed and they where very expensive, some still are. It definitely doesn't apply to most off the shelf mass produced files of nowadays, but at one time in history there was real truth to how a file should be used and why.

@@pcsmachineworks video proof, or I don't believe it. also, I don't got no ancient files so idgaf.

Yeah, I used these machines, because they where the easiest way for me to accomplish the task :) It should be easy transferable to many other classes of shop equipments - The head could also be milled or filed (dont drag the file :D ) at 45° and the carbide blank can be 45° Cut on a benchgrinder with a green silicon carbide wheel and careful checking with a protractor.

If only AvE did videos like that... Nowadays he's just sitting in front of a stove rambling about this that and the other. Quit my subscription to him after many years recently.

@@herrgerd1684 yes less rambling

I sent already a sample to the Bureau International des Poids et Mesures in France, to have it listed and referenced as an SI unit.

Hmm, what about bananas...?

Don`t you have a tractor show go to

@@rldoyle5705 well the most stiffness comes from the material furthest from the axis so if the goal is ultimate stiffness those are the last ones you would want to remove. Sandvik and Kennametal both preach about using only clamp style holders on their deep hole bars as the screw type on flats aren’t stiff enough. Obviously Stefan got the results he wanted so it doesn’t matter but I thought maybe the info might help someone going after stiffness gains for a job someday. You are right though I should probably just go back to the barn and not comment.

@@rldoyle5705 this is a curious comment. what do you mean by it?

@@warrenjones744 He may not be aware that Brian has a Master's in mechanical engineering. Very sharp guy.

I would hope Brian is thick skinned enough to let ignorant comments fly straight past him.

You would be astonished how many gifted and practical metalworkers,, machinists, and even engineering designers, do not have that knowledge, or have forgotten it. Well maybe you wouldn't, but I constantly am. For instance one of the leading follformer builders where I come from insisted that we could reduce the deflection of the cross shafts, which were at maximum feasible diameter, by going to a stronger steel alloy. He refused to come and look at a simple test rig I set up to allay his misconception, and the client (for whom the machine was being built) took his side, not mine. I was the project engineer. The client turned out to be not merely a wally and a poor judge of character, but a crook who went on to cheat me of the best part of a year's pay, whereas the rollformer guy was a good fellow, just very sure of himself, like most self-made men.