Keep the expansion tank cap off and hold the revs at 2k for 10 minutes. Also ensure the fans are on full and the heater is set to hot. These are notoriously hard to bleed. This method sorts it 100% of the time
I think 🤔 that would be a great idea 💡 as he’s videos are I’d enjoy watching flipping cars more till he’s got a car worth putting time and money into it. My opinion only and still love whatever he wants to upload 🎉
Check the heater matrix pipes at back of engine to make sure they both hot but I think your problem is going to be a blocked matrix I've done loads on these corsa's for same reason they are such an easy job to do and they only about 20 quid off of the flebay
These can be a pain to bleed! Take cap off expansion tank, turn heaters to hot rev to 2-2.5k until heaters come through hot then expansion tank cap back on and wait till fan kicks in. There's definitely an air lock so you may have to rev it harder. Hope you get it sorted 👍
Yeah the mayo is no biggie. Ecotec engines are prone to condensation especially with stop-start driving like you said. It will look worse during the winter but nothing to worry about
Had all of these problems not long ago on my vxr after changing the thermostat housing. Squeezing the coolant pipes for about 10 minutes helped. Still had to do it about 3 different times over a few days to get hot air back hot 😂 New radiator fan resistor because it would spin the fan at full speed even when cold or in traffic. Got a new coolant temp sensor also because it would show -40 constantly in the hidden menu. Think it was both the pipe squeezing and the temp sensor that sorted the hot air. I remember just letting it run for ages and ages with the cap off doing that and it came back eventually
Same on my vxr. It took 3 attempts and I always tried to do it with car pointing up a hill so the tank is at the highest part of the cooling system and with the heaters on full heat ,wait for the fan to come on then off twice then cap on and job done
You have an air lock. As per some of the other comments. Raise the expansion bottle when filling and crack the hose clips going to the bulkhead for the heater hoses and get some of the air out. Or…..remove both hoses and put a garden hose down one of the heater matrix pipes and make sure the matrix isn’t blocked up. But 99% you have an air lock.
Yooo been a mechanic just want to let you know so you learn not been smart ass helpful , bank 1 means one side of the engine and bank 2 would be other side as a v6 has 2 banks and a 4 cylinder has got one bank so it would say bank 1 s1 which is the first one then the other one is bank 1 s2 which is further down the exhaust prob a temp sensor mate 😢
It’s 100% just an air lock in the system did my golf the other day and I had to keep it running for ages before the fans got hot try squeezing all the pipes with the expansion tank off 👍
That’s going to need power bleeding, any garage that has a power bleeding kit will be able to sort it out. There’s still air in the cooling system which isn’t coming out by just removing the cap, and therefore a power bleeder is needed to force all the air out 👍
Great video on the Corsa again bro! Watch out with using screwdrivers to get the gasket residue off the block, as it could cause little groves and not let the gasket sit flush
Jesse just seen your vid drain system fully and flush with a hose get 50/50 coolant and fill system to max start engine put heating on full and it will cure air lock at heater matrix
You should get into flipping cars mate, you got good editing skills and you would be making money on flipping cars 🚙 as well as great content, a win win situation ❤
Your system will have bleed nipples for the air in the coolant system. It’s not blowing hot from the heater because the heater matrix is air locked. Put fans on hot and on a low setting 1 or 2. Fill coolant and open the bleed valves until no air comes out, only coolant. What’s going to happen now is when the car gets hot, your dash might say 90 but the coolant will be over that, boil and piss out of the expansion bottle because it can’t flow with an air lock
I thought I was the only one with shite luck when it comes to cars mate! Glad I’m not alone! 😅 Top vid. Hope all goes well and can’t wait for the next.👌🏻
If you’re going through the faff of bleeding the system, would you not change the old rusty coolant that’s caused the thermostat to fail in the first place? Definitely air in the system. The temp dial will go down as you’re pouring cold coolant back in. Which means the sensor is doing its job.
Had similar problems with my insignia, changed everything you did and bled it but no luck so ended up changing heater matrix and still was blowing cold. A mate lifted from end then bled it for me as apparently they a nightmare to bleed once airlocked and jobs a gooden. Hope you manage to sort it out.
You need the front up high. The expansion bottle needs to be much higher than the matrix. Some times helps to pull a pipe off the bulk head an use a hose to fill matrix.
20:05 sounds exactly the same as mine, a bit rattly mon. Might be worth changing the timing kit I know they’re meant to last the lifetime of the car but the tensioner is poorly designed and they usually get rattly around 80 to 100k. That said mines been rattling for over 8,000 miles now and had no problem it just sounds horrific when I’m sitting a traffic lights
It’ll be the heater matrix. It gets blocked, needs flushing or replacing. Apparently get to it at the back of dash. I have the same problem. Not fixed it yet, but it is that.
I think I'd consider giving the cooling system a good flush out if I were you. Clean the rest of the rust out. The coolant has probably never been changed.
When I had this problem if you get the car up to temp put the heater on run car up to 3000 rpm if it starts to get hot it's the headgasket if it doesn't get hot it's a air blockage and get a good lighting on the drive for night videos
What u need to do is open that bottom tap put the old housing back on with out thermo in put heaters on full run the car with a hose in the header tank looked real rusty n cruddy could be a blocked matrix and keep it running till it runs clear then when clear let it empty put the new thermo in run the car with blowers on lid off tank n keep topping up till all bubbles are out and it’s sitting correct
Cold heaters are usually a sign of low coolant level as the waterpump can't cycle the coolant so as you have no leaks I'm hoping to say it's possibly your water pump buddy...
But what you could try first is have the heaters set to hot and run the car this will divert the coolant into the heater matrix, might take a bit of time but better than doing a waterpump if the pump is actually OK.
If you're finding it hard to bleed the system take off one of the horses to the heater Matrix and fhil with water until it comes out of the other hose in your hand
Your cooling sensor is probably fine mate,when mine went the car used to stutter and crackle like a dodgey spark plug or coil pack ,took me ages to figure it out changed the plugs and swapped the coil it was still the same ,changed the sensor and it ran spot on lol,cars can be nightmares sometimes
I had an idea mate on what you could do for videos in the winter I would look into getting a carport at the side of the house and add some lighting would give you something waterproof to work in lad 😁
Do you need to tell the insurance company for changing the silver part to black as a modification? I mean its not like a whole paint job or changing the main colors of the car. Thank you.
Hi jesse best way 2 bleed these with no tools it take the little pip off the water pump that works its way to.the water tank and blow through it see if its free if so put the water pump side back on start the car with it off the water tank and put your finger over the nipple on the water tank and blow down water tank and water will.start coming out the pipe do this with no antifreeze in 1st then top up after
I think it's defo heater matrix pal I had the same issue on mine, only problem I had fixing it was it was in middle of winter and when fixing it it was snowing😂😂😂
I do like the videos I swear lol, but you poured oil all over the heat shield in the last video 🤣 Of course it is going to stink of oil. Quick, easy and a good idea to change the rocker cover gasket as well. Its probably leaking anyways.
Heater matrix will have a air lock or full of crud mate. Hopefully won't need a new one as some cars it's a nightmare my matrix on my St has gone and it's a whole dash out to get to it 😂
Can be a bad heating matrix as well ? Mine was running warmer then usual until i replaced the heating matrix then it ran cooler also alot more heat out the vents
Probably just bad timing for the heater resister to go which is usually under the glove compartment, try that. There cheap enough it might fix your problem
I had all the same issues you are having with my like corsa and it end up being head gasket mate and it never smoked at all even when the oil cap and the dip stick where both creamy
Your heater matrix radiator is blocked. You need to take the flow and return pipe off and run the water hose into the flow and clear it out. That’s your matrix not the car radiator
@@JesseCollinghamit would only need one it’s had a poor service history and is rattly, moreover the oil pressure switch is quite black so that needs changing as it is another oil leak
Sounds like a diesel 😂 you need to do the timing chain and tensioners also the head gasket thing on these engines is a misconception there is a Gasket that separate's the water pump from the oil used to lubricate the chain over time and heat cycles the gaskets fail slowly dripping water into the oil which most garages will miss diagnose as head gasket failure that is why they seem to fail again not long after being fixed they usually start giving out between 80-90000 miles, chain tensioners and gaskets from that side will ensure the longevity ignore it and its only a matter of time
