Thanks Sam! I can see why Lego made theirs the way they did; mine is a little fragile in some areas. It would’ve been nice if they got the colour right at least!
In my opinion, the detail of the locomotive and rolling stock is good but it stuns me of why the only time Lego made a realistic coupling rod (that they could get away with and wasn’t to hard to construct) was in the Emerald Night set...
Love this! Great modifications that really make the train feel so much better. I especially love how you've reduced all the gaps and given the interior the love it deserves! When I eventually build mine, I'm going to have to try these myself. Thanks for sharing!
Brilliant, I was very uncertain if anyone could really get the rigid underframe to work, since the original was so flexible. The lights really add a lot to this, too!
Impressive work once again! Very tempted to buy the set and do the same now, can’t quite explain my fondness for the American 4-4-0s.(Jupiter and Leviathan)
Great build, I will use it as inspiration. Looking at the original train, I will make the grey boiler part 4 studs long. Now I just need to find a deal for those pesky red wheels🤯
Man those passenger cars it comes with are nice & huge. Wish lego would sell the cars/train separately from the building for those who don’t want another building.
This is amazing! As a suggestion, I highly recommended finding a set of The Lone Ranger steam engine. It’s a nice set, and I modified mine to make it look like a Union Pacific 2800 Series 4-6-2 Light Pacific.
This is really good, love the headlight and the firebox illumination as it adds a sense of warmth and coziness to it. A great modification Andrew. Such a pity that Lego are so over pricing their sets of late especially considering the current world economic situation, hence I for one will not be buying this set :-(
Many thanks. I know what you mean about the price; I almost never buy the very big sets. I made an exception for this one because it combines so many things that I like. And I could also see the potential for mods in there.
I believe the reason that this set is so expensive, is not because Lego are overpricing their sets, but rather the Disney license/ copyright. It includes Disney cartoon characters and has the name on the box, this will inflate the price quite a lot. But considering that the Lego Hogwarts Express was about 80 pounds, and the Lone Ranger train was something similar. This set seems decently priced if my memory serves me correctly, I believe it's 200? For a loco and a well built station, that's quite good.
The LEGO set designers have to be good at designing a big range of different themes, not just specialising in one particular area like steam locos. They also have to follow a strict set of guidelines. I'm sure they're really good at what they do.
What a brilliant update and improvement! I hope you will consider selling this and some of your other trains io Studio files on Bricklink one of these days! I'd be happy to make several purchases!!!
That single-rod piston, articulated drivers, and misplaced cylinders hurt to see every time I looked at that engine. Thank you for fixing that, and it looks amazing!
Great job! It's unfortunate Lego & Disney decided on the 'DISNEY TRAIN' & 'DISNEY RAILROAD' decals as opposed to 'C.K. Holiday' and 'Disneyland Railroad'.
You mentioned how MODS of the set have been around for some time in the eurobricks forums, but I think yours might be the most detailed and sophisticated to date. I know this is selfish of me to ask, but did you plan to publish the LDD file for this?
Hi, love your mod! Can you share a cad file or parts list? I like the idea of using something like Ldraw with students and this is a great example of modifying an existing model. Thanks!
In my opinion I would take out the funnel stack and try to rebuild it by brick because it looks to big in my opinion and I go to Disney alot so I think it is kinda oversized. My second reason is because its too small but you did a handy dandy job nice job techno.
I won't be making a video specifically about the rods unfortunately. I'd recommend looking at the close-up pictures I've put on Flickr (linked in the description).
Are you able to provide detailed instructions on how to order the additional pieces from lego used to make your beautiful modifications? Thank you kindly!
My only question in how you make the rods connect to there cylinder, I see you have 2 bars that hold what looks to be a technic stud pin connected to the half width technic arm, is that what you did or is that round piece squeezed between the 2 grey bars a 3d print, or some other element I am not familiar with? this is the best look I have seen for connecting rods for steam train mocs, great job! Also a little question I've had for the longest time is why no flanges on the pair of inside drive wheels, the ones closest to the cylinder? Why are those wheels not resting inside the track like the back pair of drive wheels?
Hi Joseph. The part you refer which slides between the 2 grey bars is indeed the technic half pin/stud pin, not a 3D print. There are no custom/3rd party parts on the model. As for the inside drive wheels having no flanges, I explain this in the video at 2:32. Essentially, if I had flanges on all the driving wheels, then the front bogie would have to move side to side, which would cause it to hit the cylinders. The front of the loco would also overhang lots on corners. Using flangeless (blind) inside drivers allows the bogie to spin on it's spot only. The front bogie acts like a set of flanged drivers if the loco was an 0-6-0.
@@technoandrew Thank you for the swift reply, I must have overlooked that part of your video when writing the comment. I had first seen that style of piston rod on a moc found on ebay, just last night (as I am writing this) I am new to the train side of lego, mostly because they are so expensive that my parents could never afford me any, though I am in the process of getting one or more in the near future so I have been doing research on custom steam mocs. Thanks again for the quick reply and nice job on the set rework! PS Although one thing I would like to see done differently is instead of those 1 stud wide X bars connecting the drive wheels, I would swap those for a pair of half width technic arms, one connecting the drive wheels and the other connecting the rod to the piston.
I wonder if you have any instructions on how you went about doing the modification so others might, unless you don't feel too comfortable doing so, otherwise it is a fantastic fix to a problem that lego could of used
Oh wow, the redesign is a beauty! I really love all the minor details as well as the cylinders. This will sound old because most people direct this at you but this will be slightly more generic; do you know any videos or other sources that showcase or explain how to do those techniques? Such as having the double sided piston or having those wrenches become steam/ support pipes?
The lego creationist Thanks. I’d advise to look at the photos I’ve linked in the description, along with the link to the forum discussion. Otherwise, I don’t know of anything else to suggest.
@@technoandrew I just got 2 of this set one to keep normal and the other to modify and i made it the same way u did and I got working lights to but I used a sky blue for the boiler instead cuz i love sky blue
When I was building this one, I considered No. 1 'W.F. Cody' from Disneyland Paris, as that was the first one I actually got to ride behind. The colour scheme is so different that it shares very little parts with the set. But for the time being I'm going to hold off building it. Maybe eventually.
Don't worry, their shipping aren't too expensive. (Also, I'd highly recommend adding space around areas of the boiler so you can add the boiler bands, if you're tempted for those as well.)
I have a question did buy this set in person if so how much did it cost in person I’m askin cuz it costs like 600$ online but I’m trying to find out if it’s cheaper in a retail store it was about 300$ for early access vips if I’m correct