These are good, but I'd say the floor pump should be the first thing to buy. Checking your tyres is something you check nearly every ride. Ones with a pressure gauge can be as little as $20 AUD, so bugger all really. Also I think I've had my Park Tool chain whip for 20 years
Great tips video Doddy. Fortunately for me being a HGV Trailer fitter (mechanic) I have most of the required tools although I am going to get some specific dedicated bike tools. Cool stuff #GMBNTech 👊 🤘
U usually get a valve core remover of some sort with all tubeless valves, sometimes a little plastic one with a square hole (expect many chuck this away as not sure what its for)
For pumps, I would recommend one of the 'mini floor' pumps. Much smaller than a proper track pump, but they usually have a little fold-out foot and a better handle which makes it easier to get up to pressure, and they'll fit in a riding pack. Something like the Lezyne Micro Floor Drive.
As one of my most used tools. I highly recommend as an upgrade a bike specific mini ratchet with bits. I find myself using this tool almost every single time I work on my bike whether it's at home or on the trail. It would be a very good upgrade from the basics. I like the Pro Bike Tool mini ratchet myself but the Topeak would be just as good.
Does anyone make a little box/bag to fasten down where a water bottle mount is- I don’t use a water bottle!! Another simple reminder- Having tools with you and the knowledge to use them, can come in handy when someone ELSE has a problem on the trail to which you can be a DECENT person and help them out 😀
don christie so muc off make a thing that goes in a bottle cage you will have to buy both a cage and a bottle thing its like a little barrel and they sell a insert so stuff doesn’t rattle around in there
Talking about trail tool.. I have one that has allenkeys from 1mm all the way to 8mm... Has chain breaker.. flat head... Torx T25.. screwdriver and spoke key.. cost me £5 and works amazing...
If your going to buy tools I would recommend not buying anything made by Park Tools, that is not a bicycle specific tool. There's already tons of high quality tools out there that are inexpensive and manufactured by BIG TOOL COMPANIES . There are however some tools that are made by Park Tools that are bicycle specific that you will absolutely need to acquire. Your really going to need a quality set of metric hex t handles in size 2-10, buy the BONDHUS 13389 they are made in the USA and have a lifetime warranty.
Tools for home are sometimes different to what you want for MTB work... if you are working on your kid's bikes, you will have cones, schrader valves, and conventional bolts... so a socket set or ratcheting spanners are useful... same if your partner has a simple conventional bike... less high tech fasteners, and more old school nuts and bolts... I know that I have some tools that are need to keep 25 year old bikes running that I would not find a use for on a modern MTB... One thing that I think is important, because any other tool would be a disaster, is a spoke spanner...
Very good idea putting this vlog together. I live in a flat and store my bike in the spare room and have a lack of space so good to know the minimum tools needed. I have tin snips for cutting thin sheets of metal, would that work ok on cable cutting?
Working on your own bike saves you money while you're spending them on expensive parts. Which brings me to the conclusion that the biggest money saver is not doing mountain biking at all. 😅 It's not about the money, I guess. 😄
#AskGMBNTech - I'd like to see a proper video on changing cassettes, using cassette shims (I never knew these even existed until I removed my cassette to replace it), and aligning the cassette & crank sprocket for proper chainline. My question for you: I've just removed a SRAM 11-speed cassette (11-42) to replace it with a Box Components Box 2 11-speed 11-46 cassette. With the new cassette mounted I can't get the rear derailleur over far enough to the largest cog. The limit screw is completely backed off but the derailleur has reached it's physical limit of movement. It appears to me that the cassette needs shimmed over closer to the chainstay (further away from the hub). I'm afraid by adding shims the cassette locking won't bite on enough threads. What is the proper way to handle this?
I've had that problem. In my case I was trying to match all my bikes and wheels spacing to be able to use them in the indoor trainer without adjusting the shifting. One needed about a 5 mm shim, another 1 full mm. But it's hard to coach you through a video because the issues will be specific to your setup. You have to try it, test it, and see if there is enough "bite" on the lockring after you've shimmed the cassette. There are even longer lockrings with more threads precisely for this issue. EDCO has them for their 11-to-10 cassettes that are meant to be used in older (or MTB sized) cassette bodies. The KCNC lockring I've got also seem longer than the standard Shimano/SRAM ones. Same issues with disc brake wheels, and trying to make all of them match for quick wheel changes!
I stay away from bike branded tools if possible. They cost more than getting an equivalent tool. I get bondhus hex/torx. For screwdrivers, pliers, etc these are common and need not be park.
Hey guys here's a #askgmbntech for you. When I am pumping up my presta valve in the past I have been pumping and the head of the pump jerks around a bit causing the tip of the valve bending then breaking off leading to it leaking air. Any ideas how I can stop this from happening thanks doddy.
sorry im not doddy, but i have had this problem and the easiest and most effective solutions were to get a better pump for presta or get a presta to schrader valve adapter and use a standard pump. the adapter does a great job of protecting the valve pin. by the way you ARE using the pumps clamp to hold it to the valve right? not just pressing it on?
There are actually a few options. I remember the "All In Multitool" that used magnets to hold it to steel spindles. Not very cheap though. Also a couple that go inside the thru axles and inside the handlebars.
Don't bother with the air booster, it works worse than a cheapo CO2 canister. You still need the good pumps though, the CO2 is for the races, out in the cold or when the stubborn tyre refuses to seat with a compressor
Depends on your definition. Could be an electric lift-assist work stand, in the thousands of dollars. Or could be a frame prep tool such as a headtube reamer and facer kit, around five hundred dollars.
@@jurijrozanec I do use a work stand for everyday maintenance (not a fancy electric one, however). But if you want to limit this to frequently used hand tools, then I would guess cable cutters might be the most expensive one.
