Let's look at a machine in very worn condition and one in good condition then moving a full featured 14X30 geared head Axelson lathe in to replace. the heavily worn Monarch 10ee manufacturing lathe and moving machines around to fit.
Thank you so much for the tip on hanging your tool out to left. My won’t South Bend 13” cut with .0001 taper all, the way up next to the chuck. Never been able to do that before.
I really don't rehearse or reshoot, I have overcome stage fright pretty well I think. Everything I am doing is what I have to get done anyway. It has become sort of lonely in the garage when the camera is off! That old Axelson is going to be fun I have a lot of small things to do with shuffling machines around to get it in place, thanks!
DD thank You so much for your comments and insight on the EE Lathes. Also very interesting other points in this video. It would be great if you secure more shop space and can spread out a bit. Overhead sucks when your not 25 years old anymore, just like a cold shop is no fun.
The term you were looking for is Power Factor and is a function of the voltage and current phase relationship of the AC used by a device. Because it's an AC waveform, in addition to normal resistance, it's also affected by what's called reactance which can be capacitive or inductive. They are inversely proportional so they will cancel each other out in equal parts and the power factor will be 100. Things with windings like motors will appear inductive to the incoming power which will shift the phase of the current ahead or lead the phase of the voltage causing the power factor to drop. This phase difference increases the impedance of the circuit which requires extra power from the power company to overcome. On the other side of the coin, devices can also have capacitive reactance which will cause the voltage to lead the current, but still drag the power factor down. Industry has historically been very motor intensive and therefore had excess inductive reactance. Large banks of capacitors are installed that can be switched across the power lines to help balance out the inductive reactance and get the power factor as close to 100 as they can. With the huge increase in the use of switching power supplies in modern servo drives, VFD's, soft start motor circuits, etc., all of which are on the capacitive side of things, is helping to balance things out and reduce the need for these huge capacitor banks in many plants. Most consumer electronics nowadays have power factor correction built in to help reduce the power that would otherwise be wasted. Traditionally meters that could measure power factor were expensive therefore only used in commercial and industrial settings where large amounts of motors were typical. Household meters were much simpler as they didn't tend to have giant motors running therefore only measured the watts used. But nowadays measuring power factor is trivial therefore modern household electric meters measure that too so the power companies no longer have to eat it, you do. In your case, the capacitors in the phase converter box are the only thing that's affecting the power factor, the dead generator lump has no effect on the power factor at all, just costs more to get the additional mass spinning. Clear as mud? I suspect so. Disclaimer: I'm getting old and confused, I might have my current lead/lag backwards and other minor details incorrect but the general idea is there...
I've been trying out your techniques for the monarch 10ee's on my own 1953 square dial and I have to say it's quite incredible now that I've tried it. I was just goofing off with some stainless making a custom boring bar for reboring some transmission housings and I was able to get sub tenth taper over about an inch. I was using a Chinese 6" 6 jaw chuck which isn't ideal but I was still getting phenomenal results. I tried the same technique on a longer section of the part and got .0005" taper over 7" with tailstock support. I imagine I could get that last little bit out by tweaking the tailstock into closer alignment. I really appreciate these videos keep up the good work!
I have been applying some of his techniques in terms of brazed carbide, feeds and speeds, and depth of cut, to my little 13x40 Jet lathe. They are less noticeable on that rubber machine, but I am definitely realizing the good points of a properly ground brazed carbide tool.
@@RichieRichOverdrive I wasn't even using nicely lapped brazed carbide but just an ccmt insert with a tiny nose radius and it worked fairly well. I need to go sort through my wheels I have for my surface grinder I think I've got a nice diamond grinding wheel and I'll try some brazed carbide next. But so far the results are really promising my 10ee has some wear but it's been a workhorse for the 2 years I've had it and paid itself off several times over.
I feel the same way Dee Dee. I wish I could drop by for a visit with you, your shop, and a cup of coffee. Elizabeth CO is a long way from Walla Walla Washington. Offer stands for you as well if you ever find yourself in Colorado.
Good one . My Jung surface grinder has an AC electric motor & DC generator as well , in a separate cabinet to run the variable speed direct DC spindle drive motor . German electrical technology from the 60's & still all original . 👍
I love your house ..... seems like more a shop than a house :) you have it made don'tcha. If I lived close to you I'd offer to come help you move your machines, but I'm on the east coast. That's not going to be a fun day is it lol....... of course once the big lathe is place it will be
Greetings from Canada Dee Dee! I've really enjoyed your video's, what a wealth of information! I recently acquired a 1940 10EE that was originally sold to Precision Laboratories on New York. I have no idea how it ended up here. It has been converted over to hydraulic drive, has anyone ever run into this? Swapped the three phase motor for a five horse single phase and it runs like a top.
The very first machines had a Sunstrand hydrostatic drive before going with motor generator and DC spindle motor it sounds like it may have come that way.
I was hoping you could add on to your garage 10 feet longer and have enough room for that lathe. I was thinking you were going to upgrade that AA and put a threading lead screw on it and a quick change gearbox.
That cant be done on this machine because the factory did not fully machine the headstock or even the spindle shaft for the threading components found on the tool room models. I may add on but I would prefer to find a place with more room.
Dee I think the term you are looking for is In-rush current. Me being the good student that I am I only know that term because you taught it to me in an earlier video. Looking at your layout I see you intend to relocate the Brown and Sharp at an angle in a corner. Having been around professional tool rooms for about 40 years myself it seems to be the standard of locating milling machines. I know there is a reason related to the travel of the table but never have totally understood why. I am asking because my new to me Bridgeport clone mill is being delivered Wednesday and I am struggling with whether I want to put it in a corner at the normal angle or to locate it at 90 degrees with the wall.
@@deedeeindustrialsuperprecision how do you keep them from rusting? I thought you mentioned something about a light bulb under the tarp. That burns off the moisture?
Dee dee is there any change you could do a episode sometime where you open up the covers on your one of the 10EE, I don't understand how they work? Is there another motor under or in the head stock of the spindle or is there a drive shaft from the lower motor the other end or hydraulics. I basically don't under the drive train. Has it got 3 motors the first 3 phase in, second motor converting to DC then third DC drive with a Frequency converter in-between, is that what direct drive means mate?
17:51 can you do a video on those static phase converters? I have 2 of em but haven't tried them out yet because I don't know how they work. The wiring diagram is listed right on it but still ..... I have enough VFD's where I haven't needed to use them yet. Do they 'only start' the motor?
