So glad to see Monday mod tips. This one is so simple it makes me want to put this setup in every flywheeler I own. With the addition of a knob which can twist that speed setting from the outside. Select fire core ...
Duuuuuuuuude, I haven't even watched this year but I am so thankful you put this out. I am actually planning a build that might really benefit from a solenoid and didn't even know where to begin. Thank you!
Update: Pusher works great, though the FTW cage needed a lot of shell work to fit... and the selector switch I setup needs to be switched out for something that is more akin to that on an M4
Oof... If i know this trick with the solenoid and blinker relay... would have made some projects a whole lot easier! Thanks for informing the hobby with this amazing video!
I gave the full auto setup a try! The problem I'n encountering is that the blinker relays keep dying. They work fine under most conditions, but the moment there's a dart jam or if there's a mag that's not properly seated, they die. And I'm not spending minutes holding down the trigger while the solenoid slowly cooks itself (which would be silly); the moment a dart doesn't feed properly, I'm off the trigger and putting it into safe- but that's still not fast enough. I suspect that the solenoid is drawing too much current under even the briefest stall conditions and frying the blinker relay (makes sense, as the ones I have access to are rated for 40-some watts, and 8A stall current @ 12V is close to 100W). I have this set up in a Nerf Halo MA40 blaster (it's gorgeous!). I suspect that, it being a bullpup, the extra friction and force required to move the pusher is exascarbating the current-draw problem (despite copiuos amounts of lube). In addition, I have a rubber bumper that acts at the forward stroke to muffle the clanging, and that may be providing some added resistance. All these factors indicate to me that the blinker relay system may be just on the knife's edge of function, and thus is a bit finnicky and picky on the exact pusher geometry and setup. That's not to say that the system doesn't work: just perhaps there needs to be careful thogth put into the design in order to minimize resistance. Of course, this is just the experience of one person, which is far from a definitive universal truth. I'm just wondering if you or anyone else has had the same experience (lots of trial and error and blown relays), or if it works right the first time, every time and I'm doing something silly (which happens with alarming regularity). Thus far, I am treating the relays as a semi-disposable item that can be accessed and replaced via the battery housing without needing to disassemble the blaster (like a fuse). I will try to put the blinker relay upstream of a solid-state switch-relay module, but that's a project for next month. I can let you know how that goes, if you are interested.
I once thought about achieving this same setup with a far more complicated system by using a motor, a wheel, and a switch rather than the car blinker relay. This is far better and less drain on a battery
This makes wiring a solenoid so amazing simple to understand. Now i want to make all my flywheelers selectfire solenoid pushers. Grate work Sir...... One question; can you get relays that'll give you fater rate of fire??
I've had a Solenoid Rayven build for years but never could figure out how to make it full auto without an arduiono in there. Excellent video and I'm certain its going to help a lot of people.
Thanks for telling me how to make a full auto solenoid because i wanted to put a solenoid into my modded infinus and didn‘t know how to make it full auto
Finally. I've been looking for a video like this for ages. I got a mk3 and it crapped out within the day and since I made an aesthetic modification prime time couldn't fix it, so I wanted to make it solenoid driven. Too bad this came after I stopped messing around with nerf
Was just in the middle of a go burr build thank you! Found the small FJ-Z05 generic solenoid for my next builds rather than the expensive brand label ones, going to give those a try.
Thank you VERY much for such a straight-forward guide on something that is seemingly very daunting when you have no knowledge about such things. I do have one request, and that is that you find some way to share diagrams, and maybe parts lists too, that doesn't involve Facebook. I deleted my Facebook and I refuse to subject my mental health to that dumpster fire of a website ever again. Something like a Google doc in read-only mode or something like that, perhaps?
I put this circuit into Winter's Breath (which is a built on a Stryfe) in my most recent Diagnostic and Repair videos. So search either for "Winter's Breath" or "Diagnostics and Repair"
Thanks for this! I wanted to rip out and stomp my shitty Worker full auto pusher kit i have in my Doninator for awhile now. Now I can without fancy Nerduino stuff! Ha!
Hello Captain, I watched this video to help me build a select fire stryfe. One question, where would I run the positive and negative wires for the flywheel motors?
Same as any flywheel blaster. Positive goes tue the rev switch and then the motors. Negative goes straight to the motors. The flywheel circuit is mostly independent of the firing circuit.
I am wanted to build similar system with mini 5v solenoid and 555 timer battery based .(My only concern on this application solenoid working non stop 50-60 stoke a minute (do you think it can do that without breaking?)
Sadly not- it might be possible to modify the circuit inside the relay to make it go faster, but every design I've looked at is limited to about ~4 flashes per second max unmodified. You would have to either go the Arduino route, or do what I did and use a little pulse generator circuit + mosfet setup. Do a search for 'full auto solenoid wiring' on google and you'll find everything you need in terms of parts and wiring diagrams.
thats about as fast as they go. to make it faster, replace the 25v 100uf capacitor on the relay with a 25v 47uf capacitor. do note, that you will need to use a Flywheel the world solenoid, or a neutron solenoid, as the standard 35mm solenoids cant cycle fast enough with this modification. I've built a few blasters with this system, and ended up modifying the one that took the 35mm solenoid to a FTW solenoid because of cycling issues.
@@pintotheevil thank you for this info, although I do want to know if you know if a neutron solenoid can be mounted to a 3d printed bracket meant for a FTW solenoid. I am asking because I don’t want to deal with the hassle of sourcing a FTW solenoid. Again, thank you for the wiring info, I will likely use it.
Brushless motors require a micro controller. An Arduino or Narfduino. There is no "simple" brushless build. And I am not well versed enough to be confident it teaching how they work.
That's...not how it works. LiPo/motor combinations don't really affect fps (unless you under/over volt the motors...which you shouldn't) What really affects fps is motor/cage/wheel combinations. Unfortunately, there are simply too many possible combinations (literally tens of thousands of combinations) to make a video on it.
Hi I wired my setup for select fire, but I’m having a problem when it’s flipped to semi the pusher stays forward until I turn it off and the full auto works great. Got any tips why this is ?
@rickhutchison5923 well, without knowing what you are using as a controller or how you have it wired, I can only assume you wired it in such a way that power is going directly to your solenoid rather than passing thru your trigger switch first. So nothing is breaking the circuit.
Yep, went back to the wiring, and found the positive of the flywheels was going right to the pusher. Thanks again for the tip and video really helped my build. 👍
I'm just wondering, why are the solenoids so large. I mean it's not much force it has to push? There's probably a good reason but just wanna hear it :)
You might be surprised. It does have to overcome the tension of the mag follower spring and it has no mechanical advantage. A smaller one would be possible if a lever of some sort was used but that would result in a much shorter throw. Now if you could get gears involved that would be a different matter. But using the solenoid directly is very inefficient so a large one is needed.
@@CaptainXavier thx for answer, but also I had another question, why use solenoids instead of those metal gearbox solutions for full auto? I have seen both solutions but dunno wich one to use.
@@CaptainXavier I didnt notice this. Thank YT's notif system. But basically, I want to learn how a Rapidstrike/Turbine pusher works, so I can make a reverse engineered version if that makes sense