I have an 06 Toyota Tacoma. I love it when I can get an OEM Exhaust system for under $100. Due to how often people want after market exhaust and suspension when they buy thes trucks new😂.
Sanderson Headers in California have a precision weld bead around the port flanges. A tube of Permatex Red High Temp is included with them. The instructions say to apply a bead around the ports on the header flanges. Allow to skin over, then install the headers on the cylinder heads. Then wait until the silicone fully cures before starting the engine. After a short warm up then check the torque on the header bolts. You have made a wise choice for the repair.
Ditto here. While stationed in NAVSTA GTMO, I fixed my cars muffler by driving over the edge of a drainage ditch, crawled in and used a Pepsi can and coat hanger with JB Weld to fix my muffler. 😂 MacGyver would be proud of us!
Do you think for those who don't have access to a welder they could use the high temp silicone on the long seems? If applied liberally to the outer half and have it squish out over inner half, maybe even with a third clamp in the middle.
Thank you sir. I have had some difficulty following a dual catalytic converter delete on a 1999 Chevrolet suburban LS C1500. This works very well as an effective, lasting, and cost effective solution.
Note to self: - Before doing any electric welding to vehicle, disconnect negative cable from battery. Why? Avoids accidently frying onboard electronics.
Steve, after all those years at Canadian Woodworker I'm glad you've branched out to BLR and wish you the best. Thank you for sharing the bounty of ingenuity. We are not worthy.
Great video tip. Thanks. Had a problem @ Cdn Tire. Mine doesn’t do welding! Google, “car exhaust pipe flexible connector”. A flexible metal basket woven connector is what I used. PS. Pls use an N95 dust mask when cutting. Lungs are like vacuum cleaner bags, but you cannot replace them...
John S. Richards "Lungs are like vacuum cleaner bags, but you cannot replace them.." For sure. It really hit home for me from a Navy Seal(You Tube, Buds class 234) who had both of his replaced because of job related hazards. He was given 8 years after the operation, has since run a half marathon and is 10 years plus and doing well. Oo-rah!
So you welded a homemade flange when you could’ve just welded a regular flange and you used high temp rtv? I give you props you went all out when you already have the tools to do it correctly is amazing
Could you have sliced the repair piece only once....instead of on opposite sides 180 degrees apart? It seems you could still use the "overlap" method...but then you would only need one welded-seam..
Thanks for posting. I'm 72 with bad knees to be crawling up underneath a car maybe just to change the oil at most, lol. But one thing's for sure, I've got this bookmarked just in case some one can use the video's info and the comments. Have a safe one.
Here's a link to the famous, and top notch, South Main Auto doing the same, but welding a pipe in, no silicone, no clamps: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-i6rzKU4jy9Y.html
Couldn't you silicone the sides of the pipe halves instead of welding? It looks like enough of an overlap in the halves to allow the silicone to seal properly.
@2:50 I bought my fist Toyota seven years ago: 1999 Solara 3.0,L Auto Seller told me many came by to look at it, but none wanted to pony up the $1,600 USD asking price. Noob me thought I was getting a good deal despite my right foot being roasted by a leaking exhaust system. I would have had to pay for the car again from manifold on back with Toyota and Midas quotes. Internet for about $550 USD in parts and $259 USD to a shop to deal with stubborn studs and I only shaved about $700 USD.
Good Morning! Thanks for your note and kind words. I've had good results with this kind of repair lasting many years. Drop by my website baileylineroad.com for a visit sometime. You'll find lots of stuff there, including tool giveaways, articles and videos of interest to hands-on, how-to people. I've got a give-away on the go now for a 6500 watt tri-fuel generator. Bye for now and thanks for watching! Steve
They sell a "butt joint exhaust band" for us lazy guys. This replaces your pipe you cut as well as the clamps into one unit. They do sell it in different sizes for the various diameter exhaust pipes. I'm going to try one of those along with the high temp silicone, I don't have the capability to weld anything but I'm hoping my repair works.
That donut is there so the exhaust can move. Your engine will naturally shift on the mounts when you accelerate and decelerate. Not allowing that flexibility of movement is going to put more strain on the exhaust system overall. Your exhaust is now much more susceptible to cracks and leaks because of this "fix".
Not a bad idea but what also works well is buy yourself a stainless steel band clamp and if you want you can cut a small piece of pipe to fill in the space that you cut out and put the band clamp over the whole mess with exhaust sealer or high heat silicone also sometimes piece of aluminum siding flashing underneath the band clamp makes it more of a leak-proof seal I've done it plenty of times but I still like your idea pretty good
Hello and thanks for watching! I have used band clamps in the past, but they don't last long enough. In this application I'd be especially uneasy about a band clamp because if it ever fell off, the noise would be deafening so close to the engine. Thanks again! Steve
Good Morning Andrew! Clamping first and welding second is essential for a tight fit of the repair. Without clamps the two halves would never fit tight around the existing exhaust pipe. And if you weld the two halves without them being tight around the pipe you'll never get the right fit with clamps after the welding. The clamps simply can't crush down and seal such a short length of pipe. Clamping just takes a minute or two and is essential for the welding to work. Thanks for watching! Steve
You would of better off with a slip in one side with weld in one end or middle to to tab in to give enough room to tab the other side n slide in , but you could of use one of the u bolts to tighten it n tap it in the other side , the u bolts are correct
Good idear. But in maine no splice on exhaust and on brake line is allowed if you do will not pass inspection. You have to replace whole exhaust. Very F$%^ck up and stupid law. So I drivening no inspection
You could cut it out, get a small section of pipe and use a band clamp. Edit: Never mind you did that lol, just using u bolts instead. Im glad you took of that excess RTV though. lol
A little late but for anyone else, you can do the same fix he does by using a cheap pipe connector and clamp only (with the high heat silicone ofc), no welding necessary.
BS any good mechanic would buy flange ends with the same diameter exhaust pipe . Then just weld them on and bolted back. three hours of labor and $100 in parts. What a hack job that I just watched
@angelatyler4951 It wont even work ass. The caulk will melt and all the noise will come back. A shop to weld on that sleeve,,,well with modern inconsiderate towards others American prices. would be like 80 bucks!!! Dumb as hell
This seems to be a genius muffler hack! Esp if you know someone who’s a welder… which I do!! Looks like a fun weekend to try this out! Thanks for sharing!
Good video. I have done this with soup and tomato paste cans without welding. Using cans you only need to make one cut up the side of the can. I also used a soda can to fix a cracked sway bar bracket on my son's Camry. Putting the can between the bushing and the bracket gave enough strength to the bracket to prevent the bracket from coming apart. Happy Motoring.
The problem today, as everyone knows, is that we're still driving around with very old technology cars. Gas engines, exhaust systems, haha, that is over 100 years old. Compare that with what the brick hand-held cell phone was in the 90's and by only 10 years later it had improved by leaps and bounds of upgrades, new versions.... E-cars may not be the solution, but let's see how super simple some car manufacturers can build to have ZERO $ repair maintenance. Like my dad would say. Sure, I will give you some money for that product, but what's in it for me. Fairtrade, fair exchanges, and not the one-sided Capitalists hell-bent b-shit reasoning.
Haha I would never try To repair my own exhaust and spend more money on BS then the guy charge me at the shop just the weld piece of pipe this is waste of time
