I'm a TV technician - I started working on CRT sets (including monitors) in the late 1970s and continued into the early 2000s. First thing I will say is don't beat yourself up for installing the replacement IC backwards. I have done that a number of times myself, it's easy enough to do! As for the failure of the replacement, there's a few things I would be checking. The first is the DC resistance of the vertical coil on the yoke. It should be between 2 - 7 ohms (and 4 - 15 mH if you have an inductor tester). Also check it for shorted turns. That will kill a vertical output IC in short time. Next check the voltage rail going to pin 2 or 10 - should be within the range of 9 - 18 volts (20 volts absolute max). It is possible (can't be ruled out) that when you powered the board up with the IC installed backwards it compromised it. The results of such a situation can't be predicted. I have had ICs survive just fine, others fail immediately (let the magic smoke out) and some which worked fine for a while only to die further down the track. Those dark stains on the original chip are indicative of an IC that's been running really hot. I suspect the thermal connection to the heatsink wasn't great. It needs to be very well thermally bonded. Use the white thermal paste. Lastly I would question the authenticity of the replacement IC. Where did you source it from? If it's from eBay or Aliexpress etc it's likely a chinese fake. They'll often work for a while then go toes up after a period (as this one did). I would attempt to find a genuine IC from a known seller to be absolutely sure it's a good one. As far as I can see, the KA2130 is a pin-for-pin replacement for the uPC1031H2. Looking forward to part 2 of this saga.
@@cheyannei5983 Yes, it is possible but unlikely. If there was more than 20 volts on the vertical IC it would mean the rest of the supply rails were likely high as well and there'd be other weird symptoms (or capacitors starting to vent off). In any event, you would check the voltages as a matter of course before replacing any ICs like this.
@@telbee I've seen more than my share of yokes with shorted turns over the years but in this instance I would want to know that the vertical IC is a genuine part - there are way too many chinese fakes on the market and this is typical of what they do. If they work at all, they'll run for an hour or two then fail.
It seems like a frequency issue. Caps and resistors together can be used to create frequency. If there's a resistor that went weird then the SIP would work until it gets damaged again from too high current then you'll get the same issue. Something going to the SIP is probably messed up and replacing that SIP will cure the problem for long enough for it to get fried again. I'm thinking blown resistor.
For a clone of Space Invaders, the machine is nearly identical to a real one. I fixed one up a few years back and the internals are nearly 1:1. Although mine had a breakup letter in it instead of a dime lol.
This is just an idea, and probably odd, but hear me out. You remember how the sticker on the side said it is made for 100V 50/60Hz? Well... Everything on it indicates it definitely was made for the Japanese Market, and maybe the place this has been in before, actually ran it at 100V AC. My guess would be, use a multimeter, and look up the pin out of the IC you replaced, as well as some other connections. The parts can't exceed certain voltages. If they do, the power supply gets too much power, and doesn't step it down properly. It could also be a faulty power supply, but given this machine has a sticker on it that says "Made in Japan" and has a Japanese start button, I would presume this really was made for that very specific voltage and was never changed. The arcade this has been at, might have run it at 100V, then they sold it or got rid of it, someone else tried to use it at 120V, which broke it, so they got rid of it and eventually you got it. I just believe, it certainly wouldn't hurt to try and check some DC voltage readings on the board, to see if that is your issue. Hope that helps ^^
I did wonder why he was so quick to discount the idea that it was made for the Japanese market, especially when seeing literal Japanese text on the game buttons
We had a similar issue here in germany with very nice vintage Sound Amplifiers, where germany used to be 220v and than they raised the voltage slightly to 230v going up to almost 240v in the night from experience, the amps still work but they get quite a bit warmer than they were suppose to back in the day, which just makes them break alot faster, i mean they lasted 50y and now they only lasting for like 1-2 more years, naaah. everytime i get one of these amps i immediatly change the voltage stepping to the transformer from 220v to the already existing but unused 240v stepping on the transformers which makes them run noticibly cooler. Noted: 220v to 240 is only half the amount of more volts than 100v to 120v is so that would mean it would be a even bigger issue in the case of this arcade table. back than they probably used an external 120v to 100v transformer which arent that expensive because they are quite basic just a tranformer with a multiple of 6:5 wiring ratio and like 100-200w of power capability, back than when copper was cheap. i would suggest seeing if the integrated transformer maybe already has wiring ready to convert it to 120v where you would just need to unsolder the power wires and solder them to another wire pair on the transformer
@The 8-Bit Guy, I don’t know if you will ever see this comment David but I want it said regardless: I THOROUGHLY appreciate your videos, ESPECIALLY the moments in which you discover an error in the process. It’s largely because of the honest, detailed record of your process in refurbishing electronics (a discipline of which I only have a passing interest) that I have followed your content over the years. Your candor and transparency are refreshing and I wouldn’t have you change a thing. Thank you sincerely for the effort you invest in my entertainment!
Yeah yeah, but it's not a good look to chastise his own audience by deeming certain thereof "arm chair warriors" or whatever, or to otherwise complain about his own comments section. He should recognize that he is not that special, his grievances there are commonplace on any kind of channel like this. And overall one can choose to be butthurt about the obnoxious attitude of commenters who know the topic of a video better than who produced it, but the truth may just be that those commenters too are contributing something in the form of their knowledge which is a good thing.
@@annyonny1224 You can interpret it that way if you choose to. I personally feel that’s a unfair characterization of a guy who uploads his experiences tinkering away at a hobby he enjoys and asking for nothing in return. I don’t believe he was referencing anyone other than that certain brand of comment section troll that stir shit for lulz and not those genuinely interested in contributing instructive feedback.
I'd rather see mistakes and folks own up to it, rather than see a problem, and then there's a magic cut and it's fixed without any discussion. Thanks for keeping it honest. As to the unit itself: I recommend checking the output voltage of that power transformer. I have a lot of old synths from Japan, and they work on US voltage, but heat up way more than they should (some have tuning issues if run on US voltage). It's really a good way to have them fail early, and maybe toast some unobtanium. If the voltage coming out of the transformer is too high, just run it off of a 120v->100v step-down transformer external to the cabinet, or maybe even down in the coin drawer. PS: That pic at 19:43 is, erm "inspired", right from early Yamato/Star Blazers. It's the Comet Empire.
Looking at around 4:56 you can see the transformer is marked with 220, 230 and 240v taps. Thus it's more likely a case of moving a wire on the transformer primary, rather than using an additional transformer.
The comet empire was right there and I didn't see it! Something in my brain registered though, I could feel it trying to tell me something at the time...
@@Legend813a Star Blazers and Force Five (New England-area, and a couple others, mashup of serveral different giant robo anime series) were my hour of *my* TV time when I was younger. Well, that and my weekly COSMOS on Channel 2.
Former software developer here and I definitely know how maddening it can be, especially when you finally figure it out and then realize how close you were many steps ago and went down the wrong path.
Try FPGA development. 5.5 hours to build and test my current design on a 10-core Intel i9. We try to simulate everything we can, but for some high-level changes that's not feasible or, in some cases, even slower.
You have no idea how important your videos are. You really keep the spirit of those who have restoration problems like you. Sometimes fixing something old is soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo hard and seeing someone having similar problems means that at least I am not the only one.
I think it's a power supply diode, here's why: From my experiences with TVs I can tell you have 60Hz ripple in the monitor circuitry. Since the fault is causing decreased picture size it's most likely in the power supply circuitry. The odd thing is the monitor has a full bridge rectifier so regulation issues _should_ be manifesting at 120Hz. One explanation is that one of the diodes in the rectifier is intermittently failing open. Since Adrian was testing with DC instead of AC input such a failure likely would not have shown up in his testing.
This seems incorrect to me and here's why: for one, the chip replacement fixed the problem for a time and then failed again meaning it most likely was getting too high of a voltage. And for another, the chip that was pulled out was visibly damaged and replacing it again fixed the issue for a bit and then failed in exactly the same way. I presume, with my knowledge of chips, checking any pot for voltage or checking the other components that are involved in the power rail and replacing them would fix the problem. If you have a better argument for your theory though feel free to say something. If I'm severely wrong it would be helpful to at least know.
@@deathdeathrevolution3499 I was also thinking overvoltage or a problem related to the power supply; the sticker mentions 100V, as far as I know US is 120V so potentially the difference could be over 30V once rectified. But I'm taking for granted he tested the voltage before installing the chip.
I appreciate seeing and hearing about any mistakes - its honest and educational and it covers the whole process without cutting too much just to make it look nicer - which makes a difference.
IT Pro here - Anyone pointing and laughing at a small mistake after weeks of gruelling troubleshooting has never been through a frustrating troubleshooting process. That's life in tech. There's a fine line between people jokingly taking-the-piss at you for putting a part in backwards versus acting like that's any reflection on your actual ability or competence.
exactly....and we all have to start somewhere... instead of some of these armchair warriors pointing and laughing, how about engaging in a more positive fashion and throwing out some tips, or suggestions on possible troubleshooting techniques. when I started working on electronics in my teens, I definitely failed more than I succeeded. I'm in my 40s now, and enjoy being able to save old electronics from the landfills.
I agree, being stumped on a seemingly non issue or small intermittant fault is frustrating, then when people have absolutly no idea about anything make fun of how long it took, its very annoying as theres nothing you can say or do to educate them. Having said that, i am looking forward to it being thrown in the trash on another channel 😂
not just tech life. Ive been stumped by house issues, car issues, and tech issues over the years. learned a lot from all of it. Most of my working life there was no youtube to fall back on.
These restoration videos are so interesting and weirdly therapeutic. People online have a tendency to be overwhelmingly negative, don't let it get ya down.
Dave. That putting the IC in backwards was a honest mistake on your part. In my decades of working with electronics. I can tell you right now that the fact that that board was designed to hold that chip in backwards was a violation of industry standards. Any time you have an electronic component that need mounting to a heatsink. You always mount the component with the label side facing the same way as the mounting screws. I'm surprised that you haven't came across some DIP IC sockets mounted in backwards on some of your old computers you work on. I had this happen to me a few years ago when I ended up frying a very expensive microprocessor because the service tech before me decided to put the IC socket in backwards on the board. Had I look closer and saw the silkscreen markings or remembered the orientation that the old IC was in. I would've spotted the mistake.
@@peterferguson2344 it isn't really facing the heatsink though, as the heatsink has a cutout. I don't believe there's an industry standard for such cases.
@@mjouwbuis However he did have the data sheet for both the old and the new device and the silk screen on the board. As well as that you can see in the video which way round the device was mounted originally. Schoolboy error I'm affraid he's lucky that it didn't damage the new device or take the board out altogether.. As for industry Standard Whilst we might all now get our asses kicked because it doesn't comply to IPC J-STD back in the 1970s and 1980's you were lucky if the thing was soldered up properly in the first place or earthed properly Especially American electronics equipment had to be the shoddiest workmanship on the planet before the chinese started making stuff. The only two electric shocks I've had working on stuff has been US built equipment and on both occasions got shocked taking the covers off. Ironically to rewire it for 240V opperation
Looking at the video at round 10:17 he unscrewed from the textless side. Then at 10:33 he is screwing in the new part text facing him. Honest mistake. But sending the whole thing off to a nother guy who taes a look and point directly at the mistake must be one of those things life throws at you and makes you smiles becasue afterall we're only human.
@@mikkelbreiler8916 Yep just spent about 3hrs staring at a circuit diagram trying to work out what the design guy was thinking of when he designed it? And just when you think you've understood it, the scope tells a different story. Ironically the fault ought to be a simple fix but the way the boards are stacked it near impossible to probe anything. But theres always tomorrow!
Check the output voltages on the PSU and check the Vcc and other voltages on that part you replaced. My only guess is that the PSU output is too high and it's quickly wearing out that part. I've seen Adrian's video on fixing the part, it was an interesting piece. Yeah, it's crazy, the bigger your audience the more likely it will draw in jerks. You did good, but it's important to take several pictures befure you disassemble stuff so it will help you puting stuff back together. Sometimes you think you'll remember where each screw goes but it's easy to forget little details.
When the original PSU was not adapted to 110/120V and is expecting 100 V, the secondery voltages could be to high. Dukefazon is right. Are there any solderpoints at the transformer for different voltages ? Wich Voltages does this arcade game need? You have a schematic diagram, so no problem to look for it. Wish you many success !
I was just going to add the same, Possibly Regulator for main supply is faulty, I watched Adrian Black sort out Daves error and mentioned to him that you need to know what the supply in is and what the regulated output should be, guessing and saying that’s fine will lead to tears. Is there a schematic for this board, PS I’m just about to return 3 faulty monitors to a customer, 2 Electrohome 805-801/2 and a wellls gardener K6100 from Asteroids and tempest
I wouldn't just check the voltage level (of course that is the first step) but also the possible ripple after rectification (time to get the scope out). Those caps may also be dry and not properly filtering the DC to a level that this IC likes.I am not familiar with the internals of this arcade, but I could imagine that while the actual game runs off 5V, where a separate regulator may be able to filter any ripple away, the CRT board is powered by something around 12V, maybe even unregulated. So really looking at the voltage there may lead to what is causing the problem. When I watched the video and saw you swapping out that SIP IC, I thought "wait.. I have seen this. I need to look back where that was and maybe it helps you too" until you showed the clip from Adrian's video and I realized that it is the exact same boards. 😅
Your mistake and you addressing it actually gave me some needed hope. I've had a couple of mistakes working on my own small projects too and seeing you and others stumbling on them yet keeping on trucking gives me much needed relief and understanding. So thank you for that, I appreciate it.
It did by then need the second pair of eyes. Though given it sort of worked, then didnt , would be indicative of the last thing you did was wrong, but I can understand that having had the item apart and back together so much with frustrating results it can wear you down (mentally !)
I personally love your humility in including the mistakes. Nobody is perfect. It gives us an understanding in the substantial time it can take to try and get something to work. I really value your channel.
Same here. It's also much more realistic than so many channels that only show the success and not all the huge amount of preparation and trial and error that went into the finished article
It's almost definitely a voltage issue from the power supply. I worked on vintage arcade machines for quite a few years, and with these issues, it tends to be an issue with the power supply for the cabinet or the power supply section of the monitor, and there's a small change it could even be the horizontal drive transistor next to the CRT flyback transformer causing voltage issues damaging the vertical drive IC. I know that was an issue on one of the upright space invaders systems I worked on before. If you could make the schematics available for both, I may be able to give you some ideas of where to look next. As for the joystick, an appropriately sized nylon washer under the nut should fix the issues with it being loose...
That would be my suspicion as well. You need to go over the power supply with an o-scope and make sure the voltages are all within spec and well regulated.
Mistakes are so much easier to see from a distance. When you have been staring at a problem so close and working on it for so long its easy to miss things, even things you would normally spot. The amount of work you have put into this is really cool to see and I am sure you will find a great solution and have it working 100% again in no time! :)
watching the video from adrian's digital basement, he mentioned that david was doing the replacement of the chip in front of his brother who mentioned that he's putting it the wrong way. well now we know his brother was right all along.😀
20:01 I believe you could add some washers to it, I'm sure it had play because of the tolerances and supposed to have washers but the previous technician forgot to put it back in or lost it
@@Octojen the nut with some spacer would be for in and out of said joystick but you can clearly see the stick itself is like throwing a sausage down an alleyway 😊
Dave. THANK YOU for showing the mistakes. I'm new to electronics, and it's all bewildering. I honestly take a lot of comfort with the fact, that the people I look up to in this world, You, Adrian, Perry from Retro make mistakes, and own up to them.
Don't heed the armchair warriors. You're only human, mistakes are how we learn. The haters just want something to complain about or point out so they can feel superior about themselves in the absence of any other notable qualities. lol. Much appreciate the teardown and repair videos, it's fascinating seeing old toys of the era taken apart and worked on.
Or they're older people drawn to this channel because of its content, and probably have decades of practical experience behind them. He can't have it both ways - someone points out he's made a mistake, he then says he will learn from it, but blames the person for telling him in the first place... If the only comments he wants are of glowing praise, well... toadying being regarded more highly than honesty, that's a slippery path - may end up President.
@@cyberwomble7524 like seeing him short live and neutral on the power supply for a monitor on an antique system, then wondering what he did wrong. That was terrible and not what I expected from a channel with this kind of content.
For the rust on the chromed leg: 0000 grade steel wool will clean the surface rust off without dulling the shine of the chrome. In fact, it should make the whole leg assembly look better.
Oh man, I feel your pain! There are multiple things crossing my mind: - Power supply: does the supply for the burnt out chip do ugly things? Did you already watch it on an oscilloscope? - what about the insulation on the deflection yoke? Maybe you could check if it has broken throgh between the windings. As it is exposed to mechanical stress during the play this could be a problem. You would need to do som HV measurements there and also measure the impedance of the yoke The easiest way to deal with it would probably be to replace the board and the yoke with a vudeo unit from a different similar machine. But finding one.... hmm... difficult.
the process of troubleshooting and learning is the value here! Really enjoyed this video. As much as I enjoy seeing success stories, I really enjoy the times where there is an issue and then there is the problem solving to get it resolved. Thanks again!
I love it when you keep the mistakes in the video, as it tells a much more real and well rounded story of whatever project you are working on. Any project I have ever done includes mistakes, and you are right that making them is where learning comes from and also provides a real sense of satisfaction when you figure it out. Keep it up!
I've learned from watching Techmoan - Japanese runs 100v and 50hz in one area, but 60hz in another. Seeing the 100v 50hz/60hz on the label made me think of it being made for the Japanese market right away.
If you look at the transformer, there are a multitude of taps for different voltages. Japanese ham radio equipment manufacturers have been doing this for years now.
@@Okurka. most would mistake japanese text for chinese due to the common writing system and sometimes the same phrase or word could look the same between the two languages further adding confusion for those who don't speak either language.
@@mhammadalloush5104 except it said "Made in Japan" in English so one word more likely assume the text was Japanese. Plus the first two kanji / hanzi were 日本 (Japan)
I highly recommend that you try liquid Bar Keeper’s Friend (in the gold-colored plastic bottle) to clean the oxidation off of the chrome parts of the cabinet like the legs and feet. I used that stuff to clean oxidation from chrome parts on an old drum kit, and the results were completely amazing. Good luck on this restoration! Love your videos!
It’s definitely a bummer when the problem returns 10 minutes after you thought everything was good. However, if that means we get a part 2 to the video, I’ll take it. Great video, as always!
As a guitar amp tech/ amp builder and guitar tech, I came here to praise your for your honesty and the frustrations we face in tracking down unknown issues. I feel you brother
That "moon" on the cabinet is really the Comet Empire (Gatlantis is the Japanese name) from Space Battleship Yamato. So I am guessing this was some kind of Space Battleship Yamato themed game in Japan. Thanks for sharing the "failure", it is great to see you sharing the problems as well as the successes.
Nichibutsu was a bootlegging company (among the first as far as video games are concerned). They stole all their art, even on their handful of games such as this one which were legitimately licensed clones. The poster for this very game had Darth Vader on it.
I was taught that 'every mistake is a learning opportunity'. I have more respect for 'tubers who include their mistakes, rather than edit them out simply to look good. You're M.O. is the correct one imho, David. You do everyone a good service this way. Ignore them, 'empty vessels make the most noise'. Many thanks 8-bit Guy, can't wait for part two.
yeah he shows the entire process of fixing it and learning from his mistakes if he made non I would call bs on his fix cause how the hell does he get it right the first time everytime
10:19 oh how far you have come since the iBookGuy days when it comes to your soldering equipment Awesome soldering iron, suckers and a desoldering gun Man All those nice tools must make soldering SO MUCH easier and a much more pleasurable experience I'm guessing
I, for one, enjoy it when the mistakes are left in and explained, so we can all learn from it. I'm not sure why anyone would roast you for this. We're all human, and we all make mistakes. I hate that the internet has basically turned into a pack of hyenas. Anyway, keep up the good work, David!
Wow, when I read the "gone wrong", I feared it might be the same story as when he fried that IBM (clone?), and people went apeshit over it. Would have been a much greater shame if it was a 70's arcade cabinet. Glad to see this, great work!
I watch videos like this MOSTLY to learn from the mistakes! It's a joy to watch a machine like this slowly come back to life, but the real lessons are in the hiccups and missteps along the way. As someone who owns an arcade cab but has very little experience doing maintenance beyond replacing a handful of components, videos like this are gold.
If that chip was powered up while being installed backwards, it could have been damaged. I don't know what those chips cost, but if they're cheap enough try another one, now that you know which way it goes.
See Adrian's video. He had a second chip. Adrian replaced it with the fresh/unused chip. He didin't even bother to check the chip which was powered backwards. He assumed, it had no chance of surviving the ordeal anyway.
David, sometimes the NEC and NTE MOSFETs have their pins revered like that as well and I have made the same error as you have in the past. It was an honest mistake to assume that the flat side and written sides were identical on both parts.
@@highpath4776 There's no copyright on that sort of thing, no. It's just a matter of how they decided to do their plastic molds. Some companies did it differently than others because they already had the molding machines set up to make them a certain way for other parts.
Technically, the pins weren't reversed -- if you look at the part where the guy is holding them side-by-side with the markings face-up on both, the original part has the pin-1 stripe on the left, and the replacement part has the beveled edge (also pin 1) on the left as well. So both parts have the same orientation and pin 1 in the same spot -- what happened was that David was going by (faulty) memory as to which way the markings on the chip were facing when he took the original part out, instead of orienting it according to the silkscreen on the PCB.
@@ballyastrocade5672 But that looks like the flat part mounted to the heatsink was as David took out, so indeed 'reversed' between the two part numbers if the bolt mount is offset
The difficulties with probing the board in-situ can be resolved by getting the appropriate probing tools -- some good hook-style probes will let you get in there with very little issue, or a set of mini-grabbers. And if not, you can always just go with the universal probing solution: temporarily soldering in some thin wires. But, if you're getting the same problem again, it's because the same chip broke. If the chip broke, it's because its inputs exceeded the specifications you can find on the datasheet -- and if I had to guess, it's that the power supply voltage is too high. Regardless though, that means the circuit generating that input is defective, so you can trace back and find e.g. the voltage regulator that's failing to regulate the voltage down correctly, verify that its own input is still within specifications for what that regulator _should_ tolerate, and if so just replace that regulator.
i was thinking the same. someone above mentioned using an iso transformer. maybe that could help with the voltage problem i think he is most def having.
@@mattlastnamehere6403 : Damage could have been caused, but the duplication of the previous error renders that unimportant- the duplication of the problem indicates a more fundamental issue elsewhere, which in turn means the cause of that problem needs to be fixed.
The greatest failure is in not learning lessons from our failures. Thank you for honestly sharing your process, and to heck with anyone who doesn't grock the ups and downs of experimentation and learning.
I have Satellite TV with the full premium package (family plan shared subscription). LNB failed early in the summer. Took me a month to getting around to order a replacement. Now it's working.. But I haven't turned my TV on for weeks because RU-vid has better content completely on-demand at my fingertips.
I've noted in the past that you've shared your errors as well as your successes and I've always appreciated that about your videos… Because you're right we learn more from our mistakes and we do from our successes… And I've also picked up a ton of best practices watching your videos… So thanks for sharing both of successes and the "failure "
Learning from mistakes is the way we improve. I find it helpful to see these issues when they arise and enjoy watching the troubleshooting process too. Great video. Good luck in part 2.
I so much appreciate the honesty and humility in approaching problem solving. Even owning up to not knowing and seeking outside help, even when that outside help solved it "too easily". This is so refreshing and uncommon in technology.
You are truly one of my greatest inspirations. You acknowledge when your mistakes and learn upon it. Please do not take the keyboard warriors words to heart. As much as i believe criticism is important, i believe it's only important if the recipient does not know what they did wrong or how to fix it, which you learnt before posting this video. I've been watching your channel for about 5 years now and every video of yours has been a crucial lesson in the process of fixing and creating solutions to problems.
It would have been interesting to test those old capacitors, before they got binned. Rubycon capacitors of the time were pretty good quality. It wouldn’t perhaps be surprising if some of these old Rubycon capacitors, measured better than their smaller modern replacements.
hi greg, i think its nice to run a device on old components as mutch as possible. but its mutch safer to replace them down the road. they are around 40 years old after all. i would do the same as david. but im relativly new to vintage electronics.
@@dantemalus6533 Yes, my comment was prompted by my own experiences with capacitors in old CRT monitors of the same time period. Specifically, I have seen 40yo Rubycon capacitors that are still well within spec, and with lower ESR than new replacements. It has made me less prone to just automatically replacing all old electrolytic capacitors. i.e. Some older, quality capacitors, may still have more life in them than some modern cheaply manufactured replacements. Hence, why testing old removed capacitors (and their replacements), is always an interesting exercise.
True. I would even appreciate longer form content, uncut, with all the mistakes. Like vlog style troubleshooting on a second channel or so. Just following the process as you go with the troubleshooting.
I also appreciate your content including when things don't always go perfectly. I hope you do get this unit working and pay off all the time you've spent on it
I appreciate the approach to mistakes. I've watched you for a long time and you have made exceptional content for many years. And I have seen the mistakes you have made along the way, and you handle them well. It's not the end of the world. Everybody makes mistakes, and as much as they can be an eyesore, you just have to grit your teeth and eat it. Keep doing what you are doing, I would rather you attempt to give old hardware a second life than have it collect debris and disintegrate in a landfill.
Can we, for one moment, appreciate all these experts and people who actually know sh*t and make these videos for us for free? Each and every one of these videos is more educational than a lot of school stuff. *appreciating for a moment*
I absolutely agree, tho if you search for stuff on a lesser known channel or videos, you have to know how to filter good content from bad content even more now that youtube fricking removed the dislike counter. So it sometimes happenes that people think they know stuff even tho its just fake information (like ny mom...) thankfully she always comes to me first and asks if this is true for like pcs, phones cars and stuff like that
Oof! I've done my share of electronics work, and I know the pain of having to rebuild the whole gadget just to test one part! I was working on a board (my design) that didn't have programming headers. So I had to desolder and resolder the micro everytime I made a change to the code. Even when I got wifi OTA working, if the board crashed, I had to desolder it! But, not to be an armchair warrior, I suspected a different pinout as soon as you mentioned that you had to get a new IC. It is a huge issue at the company I work at that every time we switch to a new IC, the board has to be reworked for a different layout. So it's a very good lesson to keep in mind now that you have the experience of replacing an IC!
Enjoyed the vid! I'm assuming the Vin is rectified then filtered tp produce B+. The 20% increase in supply-voltage ( from 100Vac Japanese Voltage) may force the filter-capacitors to their extreme Vmax, thus limiting life. The regulators, horizontal output-transistor & driver IC might not be rated for such a high Vin; they might go into "protect" mode or break. Compare power-supply values with schematic or IC datasheet. Cold-Spray might help diagnose this. If overvoltage is suspected, try a 10ohm in-series with the line-cord.
The monitor had 35 volt caps after the rectifier, plenty of margin for something which is dropped down to 12 volts. The only thing which makes sense to me is increased heat.
PANIC!! The 8-Bit Guy DID SOMETHING WRONG! THIS IS THE IBM INCIDENT ALL OVER AGAIN! PANIC!!!!! Right, got that out of my system. I am happy that videos that include failures are still released, as it's a good learning experience for all of us.
I love seeing the mistakes. It helps clarify the "why" something works. I don't want to just make something work, I want to understand WHY what i did made it work, or maybe not work anymore. Changing a variable a time and seeing the outcome gives a new result that informs the next change.
I'd check/replace all the diodes (in particular zeners). They're often used for voltage regulation and/or other heavy loads. I have no idea about how that thing is configured but if it's driven by a comparably low voltage from the power supply it could also be a good idea to check all power rails. (Well, it's always a good idea to check those but depending on how it's configured it could be pointless in terms of troubleshooting the monitor) :)
Absolutely Love This Episode. This machine brings back a lot of fun time memories. I would sacrifice my school lunch money that day just to play this arcade.
Had one of these in my living room at one point in the 80s. It was a table of space invaders. Not sure how it came into the possession of my dad, but he had a Take Away shop in Australia and I assume it was at one point obtained to be put there. But after some remodeling, there was no where to place it (we didn't even have chairs or tables in our store, it was all order and pick-up) so it was brought to our new home and it became the gathering hud for us kids as we used it as a dinner table, a sitting table (I was small enough to sit on it and not break the glass) a game table and eventually, a piggy bank for me, until one of my older brother's friend's figured where I hid my money and robbed me as we were playing doubles. It was a nice little piece of functional furniture for a time.
A very fun video! As an arcade collector and hobbyist, I appreciate showing mistakes and learning from them. My only criticism is adding the Freeplay button. There are non-destructive ways to add this functionality (for example, wiring the coin return button to add credits) that keep the cabinet in original shape. Your game though so it's your choice!
I LOVE that you fail and share it with us! Makes it more real, shows your extreme dedication and let's me see that in my own projects I'll fail and that's OK. It's inspiring.
Not an EE, but I've worked with quite a bit of 100V stuff. Since 120V is only 20% higher than expected, it may still work, but as others have said the DC voltages from the internal power adapter may be ~20% higher than expected. I have seen this happen You might be better off replacing the internal AC/DC adapter with a modern one. But as others have said, the place to start is definitely finding out why that chip failed! Good luck!
You really do remind me of my late uncle and his ability to figure out how things work. Coincidentally, I'm running into a similar problem. The other day, I gave my Colecovision a test run, and in the middle of gameplay, the screen went black. I could hear the game audio going, but the video was completely out. I tried replacing the RF cable with a digital coaxial audio cable from Best Buy, that didn't work. I tried hooking the RF cable to an old fashioned switch box like what normally comes with old consoles like the Atari and such, that didn't work. I had already had it plugged directly into the TV with an RF to coax adapter, and that didn't work. People on a Facebook group recommended I check the capacitors or the power supply. I'm stupid when it comes to futzing around with ancient electronics, but I'm sure my uncle would have known what to do if he were alive and still with us. And might I say how lucky you are to be able to acquire, much less work on, full-sized arcade cabinets in your home while my already-crowded apartment must settle for emulation on computers and game compilations on consoles.
Great video and a wonderful channel! I absolutely love watching your process - be it successful or not - rather than just a pre-scripted, TV chef pre-prepared, how-to video.
Never- NEVER reach into the voltage area of a cocktail machine monitor and make adjustments while your other arm is grounded to the frame. 8:18 Love your channel David, take care.
I commend you for your tenacity on this project. I spent my youth playing these and think its important to keep them alive. When you look at the volume of components in these cabinets it demonstrates how the gaming industry started. The youth of today don't seem to appreciate tech and take it for granted with their mobile phones!
Lots of Japan original arcade machines run on 100V including those from Nintendo/Williams. You should use an isolation transformer and they sell ones which go from 120v to 100vac. Not isolating creates a shock hazard. Overvolting the PSU and CRT is bad as in this era, linear regulation was poor and resulted in excess heat and short service life. B+ and a lot of reference voltages are user adjusted and part of service/setup and routine maintenance. Good luck! It's a fun hobby rife with setback and success.
Learning from mistakes of others is the best way to understand WHY not to do something. Keep showing us your mistakes and how you fixed them! Some of us appreciate it. :D
What I like the most about this channel is that it uploads everything, including mistakes. That's why I like to see it. Don't worry, David, we're all human and we all make mistakes.
Hi David, I have been a subscriber to your channel for 14 years now, I always watch your videos and almost never comment but I always leave my like because I love your videos, I find them very entertaining, educational and at the same time nostalgic because I am also "old school"... this was the 1st channel I subscribed to back in 2008. Sir, I hope I can continue to enjoy your content for another 14 years, Congrats and thank you. Greetings from mexico.
I remember seeing a thread years ago where you weren't successful in fixing another computer and people being insanely angry at you for daring to post yourself making mistakes. I think it proves you're human. Thank you for sharing the highs AND lows of your restoration processes! Hoping this will help you learn for future.
@@Cappsy He wasn't "shockingly" careless, he used tried and true methods that work on other computers but didn't on this particular model because it was a worthless prototype that was thrown away probably because it didn't work right in the first place. It would've been non functional anyways, so he had to try to fix it.
@@doigt6590 Tried and true methods like dremeling a screw because he couldn't be bothered to get the right bit, and then shorting the PSU with a paperclip?
@@Cappsy the paperclip trick isn't supposed to destroy the machine. It's a tried and true method that works on other computers of the era. The screw on that computer is not a common model and he was short on time to produce the video, it's not that he couldn't be bothered but that he couldn't get the right "bit" within the time frame he had to do the video. Also, there's nothing wrong in altering this kind of very minor thing as a screw, something which is easily replaceable. For easier future repairs, it would have to be changed for a more convenient model anyways otherwise that screw would have stayed a major obstacle which needs not be. What's more, the screw is not part of the outwards appearance of the computer, so any alterations there doesn't matter in the end because you can't see it when it's fully assembled. To me, it seems incredibly petty to care about that screw at all.
Maybe the chip that you put in backwards is getting to hot? Why not replace the heat sync with something with better heat displacement? Question: does it work again if you let it cool off for a few hours?
Beautiful repair. Glad Adrian was able to come to the rescue; but it's a shame that it broke again. I hope you are able to figure out the issue overstressing the IC which failed. Even though I never smoked, I really miss the good old days when people smoked indoors. Those days may not have had as clean as an indoor air quality; however most aspects of life were much more stable and enjoyable during those days. And, I miss my older friends who were alive during those days.
16:59 ... armchair warrior here! I like crimping the copper vs pure solder especially for high current wiring. 70Watts ain't much and it'll probably do, butt ARMCHAIR WARRIOR! rawr! lol,
It really pains me to see you drill a large hole in an old machine like this, I don't know how rare or important it is but I always dislike seeing mods in old equipment that can't be easily reversed. Couldn't you have added a micro controller to the 1 and 2 player buttons so when you press both of them it activated the coin mechanism? Or remove the coin mech and make a blanking plate to mount the button in so it can be removed and made original if you wanted to.
Something tells me the 110, or 120 voltage current is burning that one chip you mentioned. You might need a step down transformer to feed those boards the lover voltage. Hope you eventually got it all sorted. Will keep an eye out for that part 2. Thanks for sharing. :)
I came across this video two or three weeks ago and had it loaded up on a tab in my browser. Few weeks go by, a couple of restarts and cleanups of open tabs and I kept this one each time because I really wanted to watch it. (just not then) So I finally get around to it this evening and I'm glad I kept it. This kind of thing really interests me and restoration of an old game is something I really want to try someday. Not going to roast you for your mistake because a) who hasn't done something like that? b) it added to the drama of the video, and c) It was a little amusing when we learn it was only in backwards. Really hope you post a follow up. I'm subscribing (can't believe I wasn't already) so I can keep an eye out for it. Love a many of your other videos too. Keep up the good work.
I was white knuckling my phone every time you put the CRT back in, waiting for that familiar hiss followed by a sinking feeling that the neck had cracked! Ah, the memories. Thanks for all your hard work, keep on trucking’, mistakes n all.
'Adjusting yoke' The main problem with getting shocked inside those cabinets is all the sharp stuff you find yanking your hand out in a millisecond. I worked as a coin op tech for 30+ years.
16:18 I worked in a computer repair shop in the late '90s when everything came in with a CRT. Although I've been shocked by 110v, welders, spark plug wires, electric fences and such... My understanding was the risk of cardiac arrest was high enough that I never found out what it felt like to be shocked by a CRT flyback transformer.
Absolutely love your videos! Your one of my favourite retro tech channels next to LGR. Your videos are educational and really fun to learn old tech. You’ve inspired me to start collecting old tech I’m only 23 but just wanted to say thank you for the awesome / wholesome content! - Joseph V.
"I've invested way too much time to just give up on this project" - literal definition of the sunk cost fallacy 😜. Keep at it though, when you finally succeed it's so satisfying.
Regardless of what the trolls say. I actually think, its a sign courage to leave in the mistakes. When you could've easily, edit them out and pretended to never make errors.
On recapping, you always want to check if you can upgrade the caps to a type that is less likely to fail. This generally means checking the manual to see what frequencies the cap will handle and see if it is within the nominal range where a more reliable type of capacitor such as a polymer cap, thin film cap, or thin-film polymer hybrid. As of the removing/installation, making a mounting jig. You might want to make a mounting jig, preferably adjustable, so it can mount other tubes.
To be honest magic erasers are amazing. I scratched my rental car and got some new paint for it, used a magic eraser to sand and polish after I painted and it worked perfectly, didn't even effect the clearcoat around it.
