It would be a awesome video segment if you could do a video over mechanical fuel injection (Alkydigger assassinator, Ron’s toilet , Ron’s terminator etc.)would be awesome content and I’m sure there’s a lot of people that would love to watch it!!
With the vein on the Cadillac head. Darin Morgan did a video about wet flow and said if you spray dyechem blue in the port while its flowing you can see where the vein needs to be.
With my Jessel shaft rockers i had to run shims for the proper alignment and was able to run the head studs with about 80 thousands of clearance under the rocker mount and very minimal grinding on my AFR heads i was able to run a 3/8 .135 wall pushrod.
Im curious about the "off the seat" rocker ratio. i.e. The angularity between the cup, the roller, and the fulcrum at any specific ratio. This is rarely ever recognized and mentioned. David Vizard mentioned it.
I vaguely recall some comment along those lines. In other words, not all ratios are made the same way: cup to fulcrum centerline vs fulcrum to roller centerlines can vary while maintaining the exact same math ratio. All depends on how much lift needs managing, while affording proper spring clearance from rocker. If you don't like clearance, try a different rocker, but try to avoid notching rockers seemed to be his main point.
Your not the only one that has fun with starter wires🤪🤪🤪👍 ask me about my 1977 Buick with a 350-H motor in a regal sedan and the BS I have to go through for the solenoid wires , a real pain. But I like your ideas about installing disconnect plugs👍👍I never thought of that😜
@@michaelangelo8001 I’ve been recently buying them on Amazon because theirs a big selection of connections and other stuff, then what’s available in my local auto parts and hardware stories
If you put an old school Ford solenoid on the firewall, you can turn your setup into a one wire starter. You'll need to make a jumper wire from Bat + to start position on your solenoid. You'll need one big and one small ring terminal at the starter and about 4 inches of wire. With the Ford solenoid on the firewall, the one big wire going to your starter will be cold, unless the key is in start position.
Yep. Been down the starter road before. A pigtail [preferably with a deutsch connector] is a gift to yourself. 15 to 18 inches puts it where hookup is easy. You can add a secondary plug in [off of battery] for bumping over with a trigger for maintenance without ignition on: just don't forget to fuse it.
We had a hell of a time adjusting the jessel shaft rockers on the profiler heads i believe because our engine builder didn't use the right offset but we kept breaking adjuster cups!
You are correct about shaft rockers. I bought my son a T&D Sportsman for his all iron dirt track 422” Dart SBC. No more poly locks or bar. Adjustment stays the same all season. No guide plates. Best $1100 I ever spent.
Excellent video here..I subscribed..can you tell me when its time to start looking into offset shaft or roller rockers ? i plan on doing a build thats not super high horsepower but want to use top quality parts..I am thinking about using AFR 195 cc with the 2.02 intake valves or even down to their 180cc cnc ported 2.02 heads and not sure if I would need offset or regular rockers.. I will use a hydraulic roller cam in the intake duration 236 @ .050 and exhaust duration 242 @ .050.. I am sure AFR can tell me but you seem to do lots of work on aluminum heads so I figured I would ask you first. any info greatly appreciated.
Eric, I have a question for you on the Jessel sportsman rockers. I'm having trouble using arp head studs clearing the stand. Info on heads AFR 227 race ready. Enginge gen 2 LT-1 reverse flow.
I got Crower Stainless Steel shaft rockers because I didn’t want to deal with the fatigue issues that aluminum has. Took about three weeks to get them.
Eric, I like your humility. One thing I'd like to learn more about with shaft rockers is how they relate to different valve spacing. I think I need to find a buyer for these 195s and have you set me up with some bigguns for my 427 sbc.
There's an LS vendor who's a big fan of Yella Terra Pro rockers but I'm nervous about aluminum fatigue. I'd like to see which steel rockers offer the least weight over the nose and compare against oem LS rockers.
Starter wire,,, for decades I have had a wire to the starter and a joiner where it is convenient. Ona Ford I have a piece of steel bolted to the starter main power that goes just behind the bellhousing so simple to connect power and alternator wires and keeps them away from header heat as well
I'm bad with names, so just say one well respected guy says spray dye while flowing it will tell you were to put the tail and it sounds like you could easily add that to Sunday's test
It's a fulcrum. Change the position of the pushrod cup to the fixed trunion, change the ratio. Further out, less ratio, less push on the valve. Further in, more ratio, longer push, more lift. Doesn't really change duration @.050"all that much, but does speed up valve speed, especially at .200" and further up the lobe.
Hey in mechanical fuel injection setup because of the increased cylinder pressure MFI motors tend to blow the cylinder wall out more often. I was wondering if going with a bigger exhaust valve would help with the increased cylinder pressure?
O ok that’s makes since, And I have herd that before.Is there any other way to help the mfi atomize the fuel better? Maybe move the nozzle father up on the intake ports?
@@WeingartnerRacing plumbing and part choice adds to that equation. High RPM combined with positive displacement pump flow combined with a lack of adequate high speed bypass(es) adds to the very real chance of hydrolocking. All fuel pumped, that isn't going over a bypass, is going into the engine.
Exactly I never had this problem with the mfi on my setup but I’ve had a couple people blow there’s up and blame it on the injection. That’s why I didn’t know if there was something different you could do with the heads for a mechanical injection setup?
You touched on the offset rockers and how that makes the push rod canted, good to note you can get lifters offset to straighten the push rod up when running offset rockers
True, IF you offset the same amount. Most real offsets vary between .450" and .750" at the rocker. Lifter is .150" to .180" on an .842, up to .210" on a .903" Not nearly enough to straighten it, especially with inline valve arrangements. Pushrod angle is a necessary evil.
@@timchadwick8245 Agreed, as that is what my reply was hinting at. You're not always going to have that perfect scenario, and will usually have sacrifice somewhere. That's the point I was trying to make to the original comment.
Good stuff. I think people would love to see the difference between the Jesel BBC Sportsman and Po series. Also a setup of each would make for great viewing. Nice vid for sure.
Gday mate from Australia! I'm enjoying all your videos! I have a question for you on valve sizes, I'm currently porting a set of edelbrock performer rpm oval port heads that are going on my 540 big block chev I know they are too small for the size of my motor but I'm on a budget with this motor as I have two other big block motors that I have spent alot of money on and I'm trying to put this motor together on the cheap for my street car. The heads come with a 2.19 intake and I have a spare set of 2.3 inch valves that I was considering using and blending the ports after cutting the seat's. My question is with porting the entire inlet do you think it's worth putting the larger valve in? Thanks in advance.
At what rpm point etc do you recommend shaft vs regular stud rockers?!? I was seriously thinking of going this route with my AFR 210 race head version 350CI FORGED Dart block bottom end.. XFI 292 HYD ROLLER cam 9.5:1 compression and 10-15lb of boost. Shooting for 700hp at wheels on down the road. 6500 RPM limit. I just want a engine i can beat on and i know it will handle it. Thoughts?!? Currently a 9.8:1 2 bolt gm ZZ430 clone FB heads, LT4 HOTCAM engine. Plan to add a supercharger next year... 8-10lb boost max. Just don't trust the bottom end past 8-10lb. I was thinking maybe a 383, or competition 195's but the 210xx port isn't much bigger than the comp 195 port and flows about the same plus the springs are already setup for .650 lift.
I like shaft rockers because they are easier to me. I don't know that you need them on a hydraulic roller setup. I am an AFR dealer and I would be happy to sell you a set. I would do the AFR 210
@@WeingartnerRacing I am coming to (YOU) when it's time.. I got to get the TKX trans and supercharger for it, Got everything ready minus the hydraulics which i am going factory 91 formula as i got the (1) bellhousing that uses factory hydraulics but bolts straight up like the TKX requires.. Cost me 250 for a used bellhousing, rare part, only made them for like 5 years... Then i am gonna start the dart block build (GOD WILLING) next year sometime as that 2 bolt factory bottom end ain't gonna handle 6500rpm and 700hp long, so i plan to be (GENTLE) with it until i get the dart/afr engine done. Then with proper ring gap and 4340 bottom end, i know she will handle the beating or "FUN" i plan to have with it.
I think Moroso makes a starter wire harness that makes swapping out starters much easier because the connections or remotely located and down on the starter itself add a quick disconnect stuff
Is there a reason you picked the driver side mount for your supercharger vs the passenger side? It seems there is more room / less interfering components on the passenger side that could make installation/ fitment of charge piping and intake piping easier.
Looking at your headers it looks like Jet Hot has expanded their processes, it appears they are starting to utilize a molten application process like Swain Tech, when you pointed out the rough texture that was the give away. PS; Swain is a nice white finish rated for 3000 degrees.
@@curtisendicott5989 Because fake news keeps shouting the sky is falling, spreading lies and fear, so businesses shut down or don't have enough people, slowing manufacturing down. Therefore demand goes up while supply is down. And prices go through the roof, and you wait.
Put a Ford style solenoid in the truck, and make a brass jumper from the main battery cable to the solenoid, then all u need is the bat cable goin down to the starter, no fighting the little wire......just a thought
