@@FarmallFanatic points don't last long when converted to 12 volt has been my experience. A dollar bill slide between the contacts a lot will get you going again though
My dad's 350 would do the same thing, check your distributor cap, condensation forms inside causing arcing between cylinder firing, this is what you think as out of time, we always had a spare distributor cap to install on cold mornings
Get Er done FF! I’ve only had to plow snow here once. I had a little trouble getting my tractors started in this cold weather, soon as it warmed up they started right up, I think my problem was water in the gas froze up.
🤣🤣🤣 That reply to that comment was spot on! We even use 4 wheels and SxS in certain areas where it's straight the flip up and down and depending on depth....Plow on Plowman...💯
That one gauge on the Super C says it all. LOL Hope the Super C issue is a simple one. I've not had to deal with snow yet this season but, the winter season isn't over yet. Thanks for sharing.
Out of all the John Deere's, Farmall's, and Ford's we have, the John Deere 520 and the Farmall H start well in cold weather. The rest of them not so much. The H is still a 6v system too. The 520 is 12v.
Grew up in your neck of the woods on the farm using red farm tractors so I'm hedging my bet on water........ You have condensation that has formed in the ignition bits and you have water in the tank/carb. Not sure if your Super C is were like this but I KNOW for a fact that my dad's old 450 was just a BEAR below 40 degrees and that C is acting just like the old 450 did. The venturi effect in the carb would actually cause the jets in it to freeze over any water in the fuel and cause the carb to instantly flood out and stick the float. Just because you have dry gas in it doesn't mean a thing. The pressure drop from the air running through that venturi will freeze things well before their normal atmospheric freezing point. IF,,,,,,,, we got that tractor running we had to let it run for about 20 minutes to build some heat up in the carb/manifold so it wouldn't freeze over the carb. Any adjustments to the throttle position before warming up would instantly cause a freeze over in the carb and then it would flood out.
Back in the day our IH 1066 used to do that on the throttle. We would use a rubber bungee tensioned around the throttle shaft as an interim improvised brake pad till we could fix properly. Has to be a rubber strap though and not a fabric elastic one. The rubber provides just enough grip such that the throttle is still easily adjustable throughout its full range of motion and the grip of the rubber strap keeps it around the shaft where you put it. In other words the bungee strap is not on the lever but around the shaft.
Out of all of the miles I’ve used a back blade to move snow through the years I found the finish on the blade makes a huge difference! We took our 7 footer and wire wheeled it then coated it with slip plate! Snow rolled off as slick as you pleased! Cool video!
This was really interesting in watching what could be wrong! I wish I knew but I don't know nothing about starting engines on cars, tractors I have hit the battery cable with a hammer before! LOL But I'm interested to see why it will not start~ Would it help if you had doors or big tarps on each end of your building so snow wouldn't blow in on them! just wondering~ I always wanted a garage to park in, in the winter away from winter snows and ice. Darn it looks cold there~!
Man you ought to try spraying that carb with some carb cleaner real good with that cold of temperature just a little bit of moisture in that carb will lock everything up. Your getting fuel and spark it seems I'd try that first then go from there.
Having once worked on airplanes . If nothing is broken and the engine will not start it is either ignition or fuel. From watching the video , it's fuel.
My Farmall M and 400 were always cold blooded under freezing point. I learned never to use the choke no more than a small bit before it flooded itself or the float stuck.
I’m having the same issue with my 504. Crank and crank and it doesn’t want to start. I know it’s not timing or spark because after a couple sprays of ether it starts right up. I shut it down to try and start it regular and it would only start with choke. Carburetor (which is fairly new) is dripping gas from the bottom and seeping from the gasket so I can only assume it’s a stuck float and the carb is flooded. The fuel tank is rusty and you can see it on the inline filter so the jets could be clogged too perhaps. I bought an MD starting gas tank to use temporarily while I restore the 504 tank. I plan on draining the carburetor, make sure the float is free, and use that clean MD tank to see if it starts up any different. Anyways, hope you find the issue with the Super C and get that resolved!
According to our ag teacher, years ago, adjustable wrech, to dad, cresent wrench/hammer. You've got juice, so my guess is a fuel problem. It does need some cleaning and adjusting. Maybe timing off a little. It don't take much. Either way it's firing. It'll run. Check for spark at the plugs. Then for gas at the cylinders.
Float sticking on top of timing and that NON Ethanol fuel lol we always burned a gallon or 2 of ethanol in the old IH gasers in the winter months . And we never had issues with them since they ran every day on the dairy farm . Good friend of mine even burns Ethanol year round in all his Antiques from F series and all the way to his 706 and in the Allis WC and CA . Trick is to use PTFE fuel lines and he always runs Carbs dry for storing. Thought you might like to know that
Try stepping on the clutch and staring it. My IH 350 utility had water condense in the transmission fluid and froze the transmission up. I could start it with the clutch in but even in neutral as soon as I let it out it killed.
@@FarmallFanatic that works too, but you gotta heat the radiator too, mu suggestion is to bring it nice and close and crank it up and let it sit for an hour or 2
Say FF, do not rule out your fuel source. I do know some truckers that deliver fuel to stations all over, when the stations order too much they still have to take the fuel that was delivered. the delivery people have said that the station will have them put any extra in whatever gas tank that has room. they say it happens more often then not.
I think by now you already got it running lol I can’t remember if you went through the carb on that one can’t keep up lol. Whatever it is you will figure it out
Doubt it's a sticky valve...wouldn't think you would get that issue with it only being parked for three months. Was gas left in the carb when it was parked? Maybe its gummed up. Or a tiny water droplet froze somewhere. It seems condensation inside tanks and blocks and tranny cases are always problem on vintage tractors. That sea foam will do wonders when you get it running. I had a garden tiller I had to run at half choke for the engine to not surge. Dumped nearly half a can in that tiny tank and it blew whitish blue smoke for a while and now it runs perfect with no choke. I'm a believer.
FF the manual suggests only 1/3 throttle when starting and have the clutch pushed in. You should only need full choke for a couple cranks then move it to half to get it to fire up. The choke looked to be about 1/2 or better which would explain the excessive gas giving you the backfire. At least that's how my Super C operates. Good luck!
I’m guessing it’s the timing. That would explain too why it didn’t run perfectly this fall either. Good thing is it’s easy to fine tune the timing just by turning the distributor.
If the super C not electronic ignition I'd be tempted to check the condenser in the distributor as have had summin similar on a petrol Ferguson ☹️ be interested to seein what was wrong, 🤔 good video 💥👍
I use sea foam too. The dealer told me dry gas doesn’t help when you use ethanol fuel because you’re just adding more of the same and actually making it worse. Did you dump your tank and start over? That’s kicked my ass before and it’s very frustrating. 🚜
My dad used in gas also desiel motor gasoline antifreeze bottle plus bottle fuel injection and carb cleaner to every month for gas and 100ml Automatic transmission run every month ! Plus 91 octane gas on farm gasoline and desiel add Automatic transmission 100 ml never has carb stick or plugged needle to or float stick ! On desiel fuel gel up of water get fuel filters or problems with injection pump or injectors! But when super add bit Automatic transmission in filters with desiel let bleed screws up till squirt then tight up!
spray the distibutor with WD40 inside and out. .my H was hard to start in very low temps.it had a delco after market distributor. these are bad from getting moisture condensation in the cap and frosting up the points. many times i flooded my H and had to clean the plugs
Most of my experience is the electrical. Weak spark, wrong timing, bad points, bad cap, even a bad condenser. If you have gas leaking from the carburetor, chances are it's one or more of the electrical parts
@@FarmallFanatic the only tractor I have that won't start in the cold is the H. And that's because of the turbo. The intake pipe from the carburetor to the turbo is too long. It's too cold for the gas and air to stay mixed in such a long pipe.
I’m a farm all guy I got one Farmall H when he gets colder in the winter it won’t start I never figured out why I got another H she’ll start all the time but I only need one in the winter so I’ll let the other one rest
@@FarmallFanatic I've almost got enough education for a masters, but not quite. Maybe some school we aren't aware of offers that degree. I'm 63 and wanting to get more schooling.
