@@Pseudify Except when the conglomerates own all of the garbage brands and whichever product you buy , your money goes to the same conglomerate corporation. There are only a few choices in reality.
That happened to me on a no heat call a few months ago. The unit was a 2013 Carrier 95% with an ECM motor. About the same thing happened in this video except there was also dirt in the trap and one of the pressure switch hoses had water clogged in there as well. Cleaned the living crap out of the trap and cleared the hose leading to the pressure switch. I also did a little maintenance by cleaning the flame sensor, making sure the filter was good and making sure the sequence of operation was not interrupted during the heating cycle (Customer didn't have maintenance done in a bit). Unit came back on like nothing happened to it. Definitely not fun to do in a crawlspace with a bunch of those massive cave crickets (sprikets or criders as some call it), but was glad to see the customers was heating again before the winter months hit. Thanks for the video! Extremely helpful for a tech who is beginning to get their feet wet in this field! 😎👍🏾
You did a good job! I always do flame sensor, condensate, filter, and capacitor check (if applicable) on any furnace I check even if it's just a bad thermostat. It will help you avoid call backs
I'm surprised you said the trap needs to be cleaned. I rarely see that problem. I usually see poor drainage from the exhaust to the drain. The slope of the exhaust is usually not good enough. Honestly, if we all just started using a exhaust trap drain bypass these furnaces would work much better for longer.
Agree 100%. They should provide a tap fitting and hose for the air switch connection. And we could field build a trap in the condensate drain then, could also then install at the top, to make flushing the line annually super easy. Failing this just mount the trap externally to the jacket of the appliance.
Another nice video as always I like your videos. When you’re publishing another book like steps by steps heating gas furnace procedures like the same book you had for Air Conditioning?
Great videos as always. There is 1 problem carrier also has. The male fitting where the pressure switch tubing connects to is sometimes filled with water and this is due to the 6 to 8 aluminum fins behind the inducer need to be bent 90 deg towards HEX. Please let me know if any of you came across this, causes a lot of issues on the carriers.
Hey I’m having an issue with a Bryant furnace we installed about 3 months ago. I’m thinking this is possibly it it keeps giving me code 32 intermittently How should I bend the tabs ????
I believe trap issues are caused by incorrect plumbing after the trap and incorrect temp rise ( too low) over the heat exchanger. Correct those issues and the trap will not plug up
@@NorCal-refrigerationI installed an 80 percenter for my parents 2 years ago. I did new home build warranty service for 3 years and the amount of issues the 90’s have there was just no way I’d put my parents through that. There’s variables like horrible duct design in new homes too but still
My inducer motor makes a loud constant vibrating noise on startup. When I firmly press on the motor the noises is gone. Are there any quick fixes for that vibrating noise?! Maybe some love taps?!
I think the key was the choker. However, the design is very poor. the condensation trap has no room for slope. They should design the trap clear and 1/2" higher for better slope(positive slope) and better water flow.
up to how many degrees celsius the external ambient temperature can the motor of the split and vrf air conditioner withstand, minimum and maximum temperature
It's a condensing furnace. It takes so much heat out of the air , water vapor in the air condenses to water. It collects in the secondary, to the collector box, to the condensate trap.
Latent heat. If liquid water at 100°C is changed into steam, the heat added (the latent heat of vaporization) is 540 calories for every gram of water. If steam at 100°C is changed into the water at 100° C, 540 calories for every gram of steam must be subtracted. What this lazy on my part cut /paste is saying is that when the water re condenses in the flu and then drains to the drain you are recovering about 970 btu per 28.33 liters of drain water.... theres a reason it's 28.33 liters... 1 btu is about the same energy as 1 wooden match ( 1055.06 joules of energy ) So you are getting a lot of energy you otherwise would lose, the byproduct being acidic water. :)
My case was similar to this (Day and Night brand) which is Carrier. Cleaning trap- condensation didn't solve the problem because the problem still exists. Called technical support and recommended inducer replacement. replaced inducer work for 3 weeks then started making a noise like a 1960 Chevy muffler. Called tech support again and recommended replacing the trap and inducer with a choker install. I did what they asked me to do, and it worked ever without any problem.
Had a situation where the condensate drain was backing up and the inducer and fan motor just kept on running with a 3 blink error code showing pressure switch stuck open. The pvc drain wasn't allowing any air into pipe and water was stuck inside. Added a Tee and water began to fall out better.
I’m doing new construction on these carriers now two of the biggest issues are pressure switches stuck closed and exhaust flue pipe not draining back to the collection box because the PVC is bowed back to the drain. And nobody wants to check static and gas pressure to set the blower speeds up. The new carrier furnaces have an app to set the profile on carrier service tech app. Goodman has coolcloud app… great video
Make sure no condensate gas entered the line TO the pressure switch, and check its orientation, if its horizontal at all it can cause issues as these operate on very low pressures. VERY IMPORTANT . Never ever blow into any line connected to the air switch, if you used a vaccume or compressed air on ANY PART OF THE DRAIN LINE, to "clear it" you've likely destroyed it and need to replace it. No joke, I just replaced one, it was the day after the customers wife cleaned their mech room, and vaccumed using a shop vac around the drain connection, I knew to ask cause there was no dust in mech room and the vac was still sitting there.
Had this problem with a Goodman furnace. It would intermittently trip during the night time and It took me 3 recalls to the customers house to figure it out 😢
I had an issue with the condensation in the trap with my dual fuel unit freezing up. It is in the attic, and when the outside temp dropped into the teens, the gas heat would quit. I built a foam box around the unit and piped a little bit of heat into the foam box. End of problem. I was wondering if I could just have switched back to the heatpump to thaw it out?
My red air hose that goes to the bottom of the round sensor you were talking about gets a small amount of water in it during winter time and shuts down my furnace. And so I have to climb into my attic and pour the water out of the hose and use a twist tie in the bottom of the round sensor to help the bubble valve inside it not be frozen shut to get my unit to run again. Any thoughts on this?
