While I don’t have your programming skills, I am still a kindred spirit when it comes to automating my house(and being the only one in the house that gets excited about). I totally agree with you about the next step in home automation being the ability to move physical things. If someone started offering an affordable, nice looking retrofit kit for windows, I’ll bet they could clean up.
your approach is wrong :) I do the following: i installed a vacuum system in the bathroom that can be used to demoisture air after shower/bath. Then i ask: i can make a switch on the wall, or i can make it automagic when there is moisture sensed in the air. She goes like.. oh no dont make more holes in the wall en extra switches to push.. fin hass it is :) same same with lightning in the backyard --> honey, where in house can i drill the big holes for the garden switches?? :-)
If anyone else is using this video as a jumping-off point... I am using an ESP32 and found that I have to set the mode of my binary sensor GPIO pin to INPUT_PULLUP to account for float. I'm pretty new to this, so I was very confused when the state was looping On/Off every second or so. But hey, now I know about pull up resistors :) I've also set up a delay to ensure the button is actually pressed, but this might be unnecessary. binary_sensor: - platform: gpio pin: number: GPIO14 mode: INPUT_PULLUP name: "Window Control Button" filters: - invert: - delayed_on: 100ms - delayed_off: 100ms Thanks for the video DrZzs- learning a lot.
I'm 3 days into prototyping and printing a rack & pinion set of gears to accomplish this, then I found this video. Easier, faster, and has the force needed without a bunch of gears. I wish I would have seen this a week ago!
Yep I have a very large whole house fan system I need to do this to. Lol I'll be back with many questions after I get Home assistant up an running. The joys of going local
This is awesome thank you so much for sharing I hope to automate our green house vents and fans this winter and this is just the thing to do it. Much gratitude to you for taking the time to make these videos and spread this knowledge.
Man we really share the same goals in life. Please keep us updated on how the system is helping you save energy. Ive been thinking about this for a while. However in Florida not only we have to battle with the summer weather but also we have nasty pollen season. Not sure how to mitigate that last one.
excellent! Great minds! These next couple months will really show the difference. I wonder about any type of filter for the pollen. We have some here too. Probably not as bad as Florida. I'll have to look into filters. Maybe we could put one on the window like a screen.
I love this have made one for my sliding metal chicken coop door. No more dancing about in the rain to open and close the door. I will also make to auto close at dusk and open at dawn. I am also going to use this idea for a hidden robo vacuum bat cave in the kitchen!
If you get a longer linear actuator, you can connect it on pivots at an angle across the window and it would be able to open the window further as it tilts up when the window slides back.
I actually didn't understand this... could you guys explain it a little bit more? Why would a longer actuator be helpful? Do I connect the actuator diagonnaly in the window? I'm confused... thanks in advance
@@Brunozumba Maybe easiest to think about a right triangle, where the vertical side is a fixed length. As the hypotenuse (the diagonal side) get shorter, the bottom also gets shorter. For this example, let's say the actuator can shrink by half its length. Now, if the actuator goes straight across the bottom of the window (i.e. the height of the triangle is zero) the furthest the window can open is half the length of the actuator. Now, let's get a longer actuator, so, when the window is closed, it makes a triangle that's height is 3/10 the length of the actuator when the actuator is fully extended (which forms the hypotenuse of our triangle). For the sake of example, we will say the actuator is 10 units long and attached 3 units higher to the window than to the frame. When the actuator is fully extended, the base of the triangle is Sqrt(10^2-3^2)=9.54... units (just a little short than the actuator) When the actuator retracts to half its length, the base of the triangle is now Sqrt(5^2-3^2)=4 units. So the window opened 9.54 - 4 = 5.54 units If the actuator had to fit directly across the base of the same window, the window would only open by half of 9.54, which would be about 4.77 units. It might be easier to see if you get out some straws and popsicle sticks and make a model to see it with. Sorry if that is hard to follow. Would probably be a good video topic for someone.
@@aviphysics Nice!! It took me a few days to answer because I have to read it with time, a pen and a paper so I could draw the triangles and understand. Thanks!!! =) Other way to approach it and maximize the window openning is attaching the actuator on the other end of the window. For example: A B C | | | |______|_____| How Dr Zzs made was: A is the wall where one end of the actuator is attached. B is the one side of the frame where the other end of the actuator is attached. C is the the other side of the frame. If it's possible for your configuration, if you get an actuator long enough, you can continue to attach one end on point A (the wall) but the other end on point C, instead of point B. Like this you can open the window a lot more. Anyways, just another tought in case it helps someone. Thanks!
Hi Doc Jetson. :) While I was watching your presentation, I had a flashback going back 50 years! I was in college in the Industrial Controls class. But back then, it was relay logic, resistor-capacitor timing and some vacuum tubes thrown in. The hardware has changed a lot, but the reasoning remains pretty much the same.
@@DrZzs The closest I can come to that is if you watch an old Ma & Pa Kettle film, where Pa Kettle wins a "house of the future". That is what got me interested.
"Making physical things move" (21:04) - my thoughts exactly. As a software engineer, I yearn to make physical objects scriptable, it gets boring to just move data around. Let's work for a fantastic future, not just an "OK" one.
Great watch, this has given me an idea to use all of these components to push open and close my TV storage unit in between some wardrobes. The TV is an ambilight linked to home assistant. I will take a state of Off to stow TV away, On to push TV forwards by 100mm using the delay of how many seconds it takes to reach 100mm (the delay you are using to drop power) or use a reed switch or limit switch for this. When TV is forward by 100mm the whole wardrobe frontage can benefit from ambilight. I will then have a push button inside the wardrobe to open by 350mm (end of actuation) to access the storage behind the TV unit. using the L289N saves me from using a relay board.
I know this is an old video I did this awhile back but was meaning to ask you if there was a way to stop the window from closing if say a crazy 4 year old decided it was a good idea to stick his finger in the window while it was closing. Kind of like a garage door sensor type setup. I have no idea how it would be done but any help or pointing in the right direction would be helpful. I'm surprised no one has done this as far as I can tell.
Being someone who just installed one of their attic vent fans, I completely agree on the disappointment with the QuietCool name. It's FAR from Quiet, but it sure moves some air. Love your vids, keep up the good work.
Genius, simply genius. I have an area at the top of the staircase that just collects humidity and heat due to not very good insulation in a 100 year old building. Since I am rarely at the property I just look at my raspberry pi temp/humidity sensors and say ARGHHH. Now I know I can install a simple small window and open and close it to vent the stairwell from miles away. Wondering if I can run the motor with a motorcycle or car battery that gets charged with a small solar panel?
Nice vid! Hopefully you have another similar window like this in your basement as these are frequently considered a fire exit. It would be easy to make a mount for the wall mount of the actuator that could allow you to slide the actuator up and out in an emergency. Also, I'd modify the QC fans display to be an input select rather than three switches, but that's just my preference.
that's a good idea! Yes, there is another window right next to this one, so the fire exit is still open. I saw another way to mount the actuator that would allow the widow to open all the way, but it needs to be a lot bigger and I haven't found one big enough yet. Yet...
@@DrZzs They have those sliding door "lock" bars that swing down into place. You could implement a similar system here. Put the back end on a hinge and 3d print a "catch" for the window side.
What to do when there's a fire and the power is out and I need to open the window? I am not joking since I am thinking about making this window opener and have this question.
also use central power factor correction to really save on your electricity bills...try automating that and interface it with home assistant...it will be a nice challenging project requiring both embedded systems and power electronics knowledge.......plus it will give you great set of stats to observe your power usage by your smart home
Great Video! installing this in 2022, there are some updates to the esphome yaml that i needed to do. I'm wondering if this can be accomplished with a motor, track on the outside frame of the window, and installing end stops. The Linear actuator works, but its slower and loud. I'd assume the motor with a track would be more quiet, open the window faster and be able to open the window almost it's full length.
As always, thank you so much for your videos DrZZs. Dumb question...This type of motor controller does not report a position, does it? So, the only way to stop and report if the cover is open/close is by using end stops (binary sensors), is that correct? I know that the linear actuators that you used here have an stop, therefore you didn't have to have other end stops. Thanks for confirming the info.
Thank you for the wonderful video. Do you know if they make an automatic switch which make the linear actuator will automatic go in/out continuous until I kill the power?
Hi DrZZs :) Would it be easy to add a motion sensor as well? I was thinking to use this project to create an automatic sliding door for my dog. Could you give your two cents about it please? Thanks!
Thanks had the video this is something we've been talking about for the last few weeks now at home I do like the interlock option as well because in the chicken coop I run the same linear actuator but I run it off of two separate relays and then I just use the normally open to normally close to cross my polarity and then in my automation I have a switch setup that if the door is to be opened it checks to make sure the door close is off first before it opens but I like your user interface right at tasmota to ensure this doesn't happen.
@@DrZzs everything is thru hassio but the coop is run on nodeMCU with a 4 Chan relay 5v.. my next builds are going to incorporate din rail devices.. humm have you seen that stuff yet
Looks great. I've looked at doing it with a stepper motor and a lead screw - that way you can open the window all the way. But yours looks more elegant so the WAF will be higher! lol
That would work too! For the maker faire my buddy made a treasure chest that opened with a stepper and lead screw. Worked great. I still haven't mastered stepper motors using any of the noob friendly firmware (tasmota, esphome, etc). I will at some point!
Thanks for this, DrZzs, love your work. You're pretty inspiring. I would love to see how you tackle a window that swings. I'm pondering a servo and a linear actuator, but, it's gotta have that WAF. Also, this sounds very noobish, but I would dig a tutorial on how to use the secrets file. Probably seems obvious to a person who already understands it.
I'm really considering doing this in my brand new home as well. With it being super insulated, even when the temp outside drops to like 50 outside, the house will keep heating up to like 73 just from people/cooking, etc., so it'd be nice to crack a window and turn on my HRV to get some free "AC". Are there any issues drilling into the vinyl windows?
@@DrZzs Is there a rule to thumb to select the length of the linear actuator. For instance the gap between my window frame and window is about 24 inch and the longest actuator I have found is 18 inch. Any pointers to select the size of the actuator for my case.Thanks
Hi Justin, do you have an example that will include a dependency on a PIR sensor, if it will be allowed to close? (trying to get this to work with a sliding door for my dog -- it's working great so far, but I just don't have the motion sensor setup to make it safer for her if she decides to run in/out while it's closing
ooh good question. I don't have that off the top of my head. Seems like what you want would be like the laser line break sensor like on a garage door. I'd suggest poking around in the ESPhome docs and see if there's an example of how to use one.... I just did a quick search and I couldn't find anything in ESPhome about a breakbeam sensor. I'd bet it would be interpreted by ESPhome as just a switch. Maybe get a cheap breakbeam sensor and play with it.
Dang, I picked up a different linear actuator from Amazon, and it's loud as heck! I'm hoping to find one that's quiet enough to not disturb people when sleeping.
Great tutorial! Did you try this with tasmota on the ESP8266? I have the same devices and flashed tasmota-lite on the ESP8266, from the configuration (generic) any idea on how to select the pins and connect to the L298?
id like to open and close a tilting window in the bedroom based on a few variables. but it will be opening closing during the night. I find most linear actuator still a bit noisy. what would be the quitest option for this situation?
11:43 interlock working on version 6.5.0.16. According to documentation 1. Need to create interlock groups. Example command: interlock 2 1,3 where created two groups with single switch 2 and group 1,3 2. Enable interlock by command: interlock 1 Test feature. SW#2 working as usual and SW#1 , SW#3 works in group.
Nice, been looking for window opening for a long time. Still haven't found 100% opening of slide windows. Aesthetics also need addressing in home automation...i.e. power cables fed inside the wall to power (maybe to the closest light switch?).
Hey Doc, i got some same fan in my house, but it was installed when the house was build. it got 4 pipes through the walls to different rooms. i got it automated with just a sonoff basic. the reason i didnt want to do multichannel like you did is because of the possibility of turning multiple relays (even with interlock on, this is just software safety!). and i do know what happens if that fails. the almomst 1k fan is not gonna survive it (copper coils are shortened and it will take a while to earn that back on energy savings). since i always want fresh air in house the fan is always in low mode. and if the sonoff gets served it will switch high mode. that means that medium mode is not connected and a sonoff basic will do :) (forgot to mention that lowMode and highMode MAY be switched on together.. in fact it will always be the case when the Sonoff kicks in (any mode may be 'mixed' with lowMode, you have to see the electrical schematics for that))
oh cool! Nicely done. I didn't even know these fans existed until someone at work told me about theirs last summer. It's been great so far. ya, I really don't want to fry this fan. It ain't cheap!
@@DrZzs yes, but when i count my ip adresses in DNSmasq i count 60+ adresses (and growing). those devices consume less in a week then an AC in one hour. but those devices run 365/24h. maybe they still consume less than other devices in our home, but i think it will be a close call.
Is it possible you just rendered the window into a "fire code violation"? I know you can just yank the window out in the case of an emergency escape but the fire marshal would probably see it differently. Very cool use and implementation. Perhaps you could use some kind of locking bracket on one end that allows you to pull the end up and out (similar to the bed rail brackets that hook and lock).
that might be true, but there is another window in that room right next to the one I motorized. But you are right. Probably would be better to use some kind of removable pin on one end of the actuator so you could pull the pin and push it up out of the way.
I used the code to automate my Chicken Coop Access Door. Everything works as expected (up, down, stop) using the HA interface. Automatons (Sunset-close and Sunup-open) work as well. However, I just cannot get the physical button switch to do anything. From what I can tell, the way it is wired is to ground D3 (binary sensor) to stop or go up or down depending on the condition. Any hints on what I should look for to get the switch working?
There is a way to simplify both of those automations pretty drastically by adding all three entities to a single trigger. I think it makes the code much easier to understand at a glance, without overwhelming anyone. See my comment at the bottom of the Gist link. Love your show!
Firstly, I love your videos! I do have one question, of your window opens and closes automatically (So cool) if the window is closed does the actuator secure the window? Can someone just pull the window open? I’m thinking about trying this on my sliding glass patio door. Would be better then placing a bar in the jam every evening assuming it’s secure. Thanks for the inspiration!
The actuator is pretty solid when it's extended. I can't push it back in. It's as strong as a bar in the window jam. Someone would have to break the window glass to get in.
DrZzs Thanks for the reply bro! Any recommendations on how I could setup how I would open the door from the outside. I’m trying to get the WA (Wife Approval) and need to get everything thought out before moving on! Thanks for all the inspiration and videos!
Great video I also have a QC fan but I need to have the physical buttons cause my wife is automation challenged. Do you have a way to push a button to turn on the fan?
no, I don't have a physical button. but you could use pretty much any switch/button that is connected to HA. Even something like a long-press on a Tasmotized light switch could send the message to HA to turn on/off the fan. Or an RF button with the RF bridge, or one of these Xiaomi zigbee battery buttons. Or an HA switchplate if you have those. Basically, you can take a physical button and tell it to control the fan through HA. That'll work!
I just show my wife the electricity bill, not the Amazon/AliExpress bill :) I'll have to do a calculation and show how much it costs to run a wifi device. I'd think it's less to run one of those for a month than to run the AC for an hour. It'll be good to calculate it out though and know for sure!
Hi @drzzs, I tried to work with the L298N board, but for some reason, after a while, it makes my 200v breaker trip :/ I have no idea what's wrong, I'm using a 12v power supply with 3A max. Any thoughts? maybe I'm missing something in the code? , maybe it draws too many amps after a period of time? Thanks!
Hey Dr! Great video, very inspiring. I just bought a house with a Quiet Cool fan but the previous owners opted for the WiFi controller. I believe there is a method of controlling via sniffing the packets (CoAP?) and then reproducing them somehow. Have you heard of this?
I've heard of sniffing packets, but I don't know how it's done. Mine "came with" the RF controller. I wish I would have known how easy it would be to control it with the sonoff 4ch I could have saved $150.
Hey Doc, I'm contemplating building a headboard for our bed, with two adjustable headrests, so that you can easyli sit up and read, or adjust it to your comfort. Will I be able to use the motor controller to control two actuators independently? Currently I'm in the mechaninc part of it, trying to get the best solution for a headrest, so that when it gets angled, it doesn't lift up from the surface of the bed.
yes! that motor controller can independently run 2 dc motors. Max current is 3amps. I don't know how much force it'll take to adjust your bed. When you pick your motor just keep that current rating in mind so you don't go over it. Sounds like a great project! Let me know how it goes! Good luck with it!
I was working on an electric adjustable headrest too until I shelved it in favour of a ready made bed (with manual headrests). I did get a prototype of the mechanical part mostly sorted out though (including keeping it level with the surface of the bed), using a modified bed lift bracket coupled with the same linear actuator in this video. Let me know if you get stuck and I'll try to help.
@@ianellul9805 If you have a mechanical idea, don't hesitate to share it :-) As our bed is a waterbed, I need to have it attached to the wall, and have the motion going from the wall. I'm currently contemplating grabbing some of our smallest childs Lego, and build a "thought" in that to see what I can do.
Hi DrZzs, I'm getting an error message when trying to upload the yaml configuration: src/main.cpp: In lambda function: src/main.cpp:268:21: warning: 'esphome::cover::Cover::::state' is deprecated (declared at src/esphome/components/cover/cover.h:120): .state is deprecated, please use .position instead [-Wdeprecated-declarations] if (win_open->state == cover::COVER_OPEN) { ^ src/main.cpp:268:21: warning: 'esphome::cover::Cover::::state' is deprecated (declared at src/esphome/components/cover/cover.h:120): .state is deprecated, please use .position instead [-Wdeprecated-declarations] I'm not really familiar with the usage of "cover" do I have to use this feature? Thanks!
so far I'd say you'll notice a change in temperature within about 30 min. The rest depends on what temperature it is outside and how cool you want it inside. I started running ours for an hour at a time, but lately (since it's been warmer outside) I need to run it longer to get it nice and cool in the house. I'm running on LOW most of the time just because Med and especially High are much louder. I guess the best answer would be, Low is the best speed for us based on sound, and I've been running it for 2-3 hrs at a time in the morning then again in the evening, but usually shutting it off from about 11am to 6pm and about 11pm to 7am. Hope that helps!
I meant that your home automation should predict and suggest desired usage. As the day gets hotter it might suggest an increase in fan speed or switch to AC. And your phone popup might authorize the recommendation or let you choose something else.
OK question, Arduino with Tasmota install ( which i know how to do) and then configure OR ESPHome ? mind you it will be on a NodeMCU.... got my parts and ready to build, Switching over the chicken coop setup to this way
I'm pretty happy with ESPhome lately. I'll still use Tasmota on some devices that don't have an established template on ESPhome (like the 3-gang T1 switches), but for dang near everything, I'm using ESPhome these days. So, for something like this on your chicken coop, I'd say use ESPhome.
I have a setup working for a crank window. I just need some time to edit up the video. The tricky part is 3d printing a coupling that will fit the shaft of the geared motor and the crank gear on the window. I've been using PLA for that, but I've stripped several of the couplings if the resistance from the window getting too high. And Mike also has a good point. You could just re-arrange the actuator to push or pull the window up or out.
I don't understand why window manufacturers don't have these installed inside the frame, so it's hidden. It would be nice to have the window open and close based on indoor vs outdoor temperature and PCT chance of rain. I hate opening the window at cool night because the AC won't turn on. Then closing it when it gets hot in the morning.
DrZzs Sweet! I’m looking to turn my whole house fan smart, but I still need to climb into the attic and see what kind of power my fan draws. Right now it’s controlled with a timer knob and a separate switch to turn the fan to high. I was thinking a Shelly 2 but I’m not sure if the fan will draw too much power.
Next - installing IR led sender/receiver to detect object in path when closing, like a garage door. (Could perhaps use one of the garage door sender/receiver pairs if you don't want to design your own?). It could be on the edge of the window frame opening - anything which might get crushed has to get pushed up against that edge first. The other option would be to have something elastic in the mechanics, so that the max closing force would be set by that elasticity rather than the power of the linear actuator - enough to close the window but not enough to crush a finger. Perhaps have an alert if the security sensor doesn't detect closed within a reasonable time.
@@DrZzs sorry for the delay, i dont see any documentation about this, but you can try add to home like a rtsp camera, the camera have a qr code not? or code to link , that is try to tell you about, my ezviz camara not have rtsp but i can use like rtsp ocasionally have a 5 key digits for password. example: - platform: ffmpeg name: Camera azotea input: -rtsp_transport tcp -i rtsp://admin:QR_SPECIAL_CODE@YOU_IP:554
ha! ya, they hate me. My last 3 bills have been $30, $27, and $20! Prior to this year we never had one less than $100, and the average over the year has been over $300 a month.
Please be careful you don't crush any of the kid's fingers in the windows (you can't see if there is anything in the way while it's closing)! Maybe the motor has a built in safety, but just in case think of adding a pir/ultrasonic sensor to it. I'm gutted I can't use this on my windows (top opening skylights...)
good point. Maybe I should get a hotdog or something and test it to see if it stops when there's resistance. Skylights are nice. Do you ever open them?
@@DrZzs I've heard if you lightly boil/steam a carrot (not long enough to cook it, but enough to take the crunch out) it's a good analogue for a finger? Less messy than a hotdog! Sorry, lost in translation, in the UK the majority of our windows are fixed in position. Only the top third opens by pivoting out from the top. and because they are made from PVC there's no way to mount an actuator to it (as the mount will need to pivot as the window opens). I would love a proper skylight in our utility room but the wife is dead against me cutting holes in our roof!
I've always wanted to do this but never have because of the concern of crushing fingers. With grandchildren around you never know what they are getting up to so, for me, some kind of sensor to stop or reverse the window would be mandatory - kind of like my garage door which has a sensor beam. If the beam is broken the door will reverse and stay open.
should be possible. I assume you already have google home integrated into Home Assistant. They make a lot of different actuators that are made for different weights/speeds. Make sure you get one that can lift whatever you've got planned.
haha! I'm actually an alien-robot hybrid from the future. I would tell you the next powerball winning numbers, but all that money would ruin your life. ;p
I think this code would work better for your application. Only problem I see with it is rapid cycling because of a < or > set point. local Target = 65 local Buffer = 5 local Equalib = 10 if inside_temp > target+buffer then heater.state = false if inside_temp > outside_temp-Equalib then fan.state = true windows.state = true ac.state = false else fan.state = false windows.state = false ac.state = true end elseif inside_temp < target-buffer then ac.state = false if inside_temp < outside_temp + Equalib then fan.state = true windows.state = true heater.state = false else fan.state = false windows.state = false heater.state = true end else fan.state = false windows.state = false heater.state = false ac.state = false end
This was great! - i'd love to see this translated into Node-Red if you're still using that. thanks for all your work. russ from coral springs, florida, usa
@@DrZzs I think NodeRed is much more powerful than Yaml, especially if you want to build repetitive automations for several devices. You should really get into it (and teach the community!)
if it aint broke dont fix it... ok i repeated after you........ another way to have done the triggering is to create a quietcool group, then just have the group as a trigger. you should also add a condition to the automation that checks if your alarm is on, so if your not home then dont bother sending a notification, 1 day you might turn it on for some reason then your window will open and trigger your alarm..
Unfortunately, the linear actuator in this project would have binding issues on a double-hung window (vertical orientation). Also, my wife would never smile at the site of such a contraption in the window.
There are comments in that file that tell you which parts to put in which places in your configuration. If you aren't sure where the configuration.yaml, or automations.yaml or esphome yaml files are located then you should start with a good basic Home Assistant setup video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qnCRcGTznXs.html
"In my never ending quest to save money on electricity, " .. the best way is a thermal coat on exterior walls and roof: you can save like 50% of your energy bill like that
@@DrZzs thermal coat is how Google translates it from Italian. This what I am talking about, hope the link works duckduckgo.com/?q=cappotto+termico&iax=images&ia=images
Compiling sliding_window_opener.yaml I got compile error - esphome sliding_window_opener.yaml compile INFO Reading configuration... ERROR Error while reading config: Invalid YAML syntax. Please see YAML syntax reference or use an online YAML syntax validator: while parsing a block mapping in "sliding_window_opener.yaml", line 2, column 1: esphome: ^ expected , but found '-' in "sliding_window_opener.yaml", line 128, column 1: - alias: window open when quietc ... ^ I made copy and paste from Raw file in github. Please advise whats made wrong for compiling ?
he has replaced the original supplied control box i think, because the fan has 3 110v inputs on it, low, med, high, so the switch just chooses what input to use
Shane is right. Sorry I didn't go into detail on that. I've got to do another vid really soon about the crank window opener. I'll include the wiring for the fan in that one. Basically, the stock fan controller has line-in, neutral-in, and 3 speed wires, one for each speed. So I just ran the L/N to the sonoff, and connected each speed wire to a different relay.
@@DrZzs I have Weather underground check several things to automate. The humidity for this project is one of those I use. If the humidity outside is greater than inside, I have a Sonoff Latching board activate a relay that inhibits (sorry for the backward logic) my attic fan to keep it from pulling the humidity into the house. It has a built in humdistat that, unless I inhibit it, will turn the fan on. I do the same if raining, etc. I do some manipulations around sunrise (+2hrs) and sunset (+15 min) also. I barely run my AC anymore. I plan eventually to move it to respond to an ESP server.
Hi there. I'm wondering if something similar could be put together for a lock I have installed on my garage. Looks like this amzn.to/2rxlqw9 . I need to be able to remotely (un)lock it, say from a remote fob in the car, or via Home Assistant. I already have a a RPi in the garage for automated garage door open/closing. I suspect though I can't directly wire anything to it since the moving of the garage door would be a problem for the wires, so what remote (wireless) options do you think are available, and that can also control the motor. I wouldn't need something as large as the one you used....the lock latch only moves about 3-4inches.
ya, I saw that after I filmed it. doh! Having the flash on the camera made it look even worse. ;p I should have shown all the leaves I had to clean out of the window well outside that window! It hadn't been cleaned for years!
