Damn the fact that you not only climbed 9b but also did three outfit changes on the route is super impressive. Maybe you have a record for most outfit changes on a 9b now.
This is perfect timing for my current project, which is similar in length, steepness and complexity, but much easier (mid-8 instead of mid-9). Pushing my body and mind to the limits at age 65, the hardest technical challenge of my long climbing career. Thank you for the inspiration!
Great commentary in this super hard climb. Thanks a lot. After i liked this video, a miracle has happened: I was able to get up from my couch within 30 seconds, normaly i need a minute...
Impressive as always. However slipping off that knee-bar during the rope change would be an extremely painful experience, given all that slack of the static sling 🤕
Holly crap, This was really mesmerizing to watch .And looking at the length of the video, this put the level of the route to perspective. i mean, i, an average climber, am exausted when i spend more than 2-3 min on a route. in a competition the routes are graded 8a to 8c with a time limit of 6 min. here the ascend takes more than 20 min with the fast forward on the rests. Even with good rests, the endurance you need to keep climbing for that long is insane! Ah and the narration was really nice as well :p
Amazing climbing and amazing video! Let me make a note thoe. Isn't it a bad idea to be clipped just to a sling that isn't fully tense? In case you fell from the kneebar during the "rope change", you would fall on a sling that doesn't have the capacity to dissipate the fall dynamically, as a rope does, and there's a chance that it would break. If I were you (and I'm clearly not, I'm not a 9b+ -potentially 9c- climber, but a 6c climber, so what the hell do I know), I would tie a one-handed clove hitch to the closest quickdraw. That way, you would have redundant security with a dynamic element. Really, I'm boring myself just writing it. You're clearly more experienced than me, and I understand that you were not expecting to fall from a good kneebar rest, but I just want to let this comment here in case someone finds it useful or whatever.
He had less then 4 inches of slack and he would fall in an arc the sling would not break would not be the most comfortable fall but not dangerous for the distance/type of climbing
Easy fix is to make the runner from a dynamic rope section. I do this for working my roof climbs. Falling on static, even with rope backup, is hard on the body.
I hit the like button at the beginning of the video, but then paused it. I went climbing and I was somehow two grades stronger, but didn't know why. I watched the rest of the video later and then he told us we would climb harder if we hit the like button, so thanks for sharing some of your power.
Great ascent Stefano ! When you do the rope "change" though, is it that safe to have for only back up just a piece of sling? I mean, you seem to hold on the knee bar pretty well, but if you fall at this point, you'll shock load the sling by 50-100cm maybe ? without being on belay. I just know that slings do not like very much shock loads... Correct me if I'm wrong. Bravo again for the climb
you are right. you should not risk shock loading a static system. your belay loop will break before the sling. the thing to note is that he is way below the anchor so he would probably be ok. i wouldn't test it on myself though
A factor 2 fall on a dynema sling can break it with an 80kg weight under test conditions. Stefano is probably safe in terms of not falling to the ground but with no dynamism in the system the fall into the harness would be extremely hard and very, very painful possibly causing damage to internal organs. So it’s not exactly “safe”….
man from professional climber to professional youtuber, what a ride, so when are the raid shadow legends ads coming in? or is it raycons? no no no, nord vpn to keep the nordic theme, right?
How does this route compare to Move in terms of difficulty? The name seems a bit misleading because 'Hard' originally comes from the fact that it joined with 'Project Hard', not that it is necessarily a harder version of Move.
is clipping to a long, what looks like, dyneema sling for when you are off belay really safe? like, of course a climber of your calibre isnt gonna fall on a rest and maybe its a head game thing but surely a screamer or some kind of energy absorber should be used instead as the shock load on a dyneema sling can create extremely high forces enough to even snap the sling
He's appears below the bolt it's clipped to and off to the side, so I think a fall would likely just result a jolt and swing, but nothing crazy harsh and really no chance of it breaking (assuming good condition, 20+kn sling)
The rope change is kinda dangerous, if the sling has so mach slag. If you would fall, you would get an strong non-dynamic impact and it could break the loop of your harness. Hard is Easy made a great video about this. So either reduce the slag in de sling or even better have a dynamic kinda sling/rope which would absorb the impact.
This was amazing. Congrats on becoming a professional youtuber! Does it mean you are retiring as a professional climber? You just went to rockmaster... o.O Anyway, hit the bell, so now I want to climb 7c 🤣🤣🤣 Sei un mito!
I can't believe it, yesterday I subscribed to this channel and liked this video. For some reason today I was climbing 2 grades above what I usually do. It's like magic...
You are awesome. Next time also change a shirt and shoes in the middle of the route 😂 Those must have been the longest 20 minutes. Very nice video, even for a professional RU-vidr 😁
Thanks Stefano . Congrats for the ascent and thanks again for the video. Maybe Adam should call the route "Move into Silence" now that "Project Hard" has become "Silence". Om
at 7:15 during the ropechange, if you fell into that loose hanging static sling, wouldnt it cut the ring of the harness? falling just a little into static slings is very dangerous.
You would need at least 15 kN of force to break a belay loop. No way this is happening here. Falling on that sling would be unpleasent, that's pretty much it.
that carabier in a harness thing will prevent you falling to the ground, but a fall with a static 'rope' like dynema will break your back. Maybe using a piece of rope?
Guys there was barely any slack he would not of fell straight down he was climbing an overhang some force would of applied to the side and down it would of break the fall do you know what those slings are rated for?
@@gabplayspoker the point is not the overall rating in Kn, is the lack of any elasticity, he would go from falling to still in 0.0001 seconds that can really fuck your back up, we need the dynamicity of ropes to handle our falls. And even tho it is 22kn+ rated, in a drop tower with a 80kg weight and a factor 2+ fall it can actually snap (citation needed, watched a video of this once), its not how they were designed to use
Seeing you loose on your safety sling was so nerve inducing having always been taught to never be loose on your pas on multi pitch unless it’s dynamic. Could you not have clipped to something dynamic, or has a screamer there, or clove hitched in loosely with the rope. I understand it’s a bomber knee bar and you need it to be obvious you aren’t resting on the sling but still it seems maybe slightly sketchy? Obviously you know more than me so I’m curious about your thoughts here?
