Mr Bozo Comments on Zombie Chuck Restoration 

Great job on the tear down and rebuild Tom! You proved me wrong. Next up, we’ll send you the Graveyard find 20N.

My grandpa used to put grooves on his like this one, he told me that its a way to distribute oil on the shaft of the arbor for easy way to take it apart. He's right here watching it with me at 101 and still tinkers in his shop every day. Amazing man he is. Loves his drill presses, lathes & a his tools for working on airplanes.

The dental tool is called an "Akers Knife". Used to clean the imperfections from plaster casts of the mouth. I make orthodontic appliances. Just found your channel and really enjoy it.

Pro tip: put some inert objects like glass jars filled with sand in the container to take up all the wasted volume and you need a lot less rust remover.

Obviously the helix groove is a channel for the rust remover to soak into.

The way you turned over the tub to dump some minuet particles out before placing the rusted chuck in was priceless. And I think I would have hit it with a soft solid brass wire brush if for no other reason than to keep the rust remover as pristine as possible.

Tom, a pile of steaming chips and no sign of chuck slip, i'd call that job done. I love your methodical approach to your work, in complete contrast to John Mills but equally enjoyable. As John says ''I am mechanic pissing about in my workshop'. Nevertheless, I have total respect for the man. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland. Joe.

I got a BB16 ROHM drill chuck at a garage sale with a bunch of drill bits for $20 and I knew all the drill bits were USA made and I could sharpen them and now I'm going to take it apart and rebuild this chuck as well thanks to this video so one of the best buys ever for me. Thank you for the knowledge.

Pressing it back together, you asked 'how far do you go?'. You can adjust the mesh of the chuck key with the pinion depending on how far you go. If you have a chuck with a tight key, push the sleeve on a little further. Similarly, if the key is loose, push the sleeve off a little.

I turned on the old youtube to find a review on a 10kw duel fuel generator and 2 hours later im watching an great video on rehabbing an old chuck. Nice work.

Wow!!! See, I love taking tools that look trashed and restore them to working order. Nicely done!

This "Bearing Fracturing" method is used to make 2 piece, 2 bolt connecting rods with NEEDLE BEARING big ends [crankpin end] for small 2-Stroke powerplants with ONE PIECE crankshafts. A very ingenious American way to make needle bearing crankshafts without a multipiece pressed together assembly. This method was used on an all Yellow American Chainsaw years ago, whose manufacturer I don't recall. Mac or Mc Cullah or similar name Although I have seen this method used on a German Experimental lightweight air cooled Diesel powerplant's auxiliary starting engine [Pony motor], that was designed in the late 1920's. Nevertheless a very ingenious design whatever Country came up with this novel idea. Great Video as always, Tom. Thank You.

Hi Tom, I loved the video. Amazingly calming to watch. Nice to see stuff re-worked and put back into service. I do agree though, if this was your number 1 Jacobs, a kit would be in order. Maybe. Looks like it works pretty well! I'm a T and D maker up here in Canada and our busy job shop is pretty messy with a few of these just lying about. we should get the apprentices going on these i think, lol... Great job and i LOVE the evil clown, good stuff. Cheers.

Very interesting. I’m a retired Caterpillar engine mechanic. In all my years I have never disassembled a Jacobs chuck. Thank you.

Good work, enjoyasble, entertaining and nice to see you in action on video again. Now about that printing press ... :P

Looks like most of my tooling when I get it. I purchased several hundred pounds of reamers, drill bits, taps, and end mills that had been out in the weather for 2 years. Almost all of it was restorable. Tom, keep up with the great content. Thank you

The pitted shank on the Morris taper is no dif. than a scraped surface. You have the ground surface, and a random lower surface that will never make contact with the internal surface of the arbor.

Not boring at all Tom, in fact very interesting to see the inner workings of a chuck and how to dis-assemble and re-assemble. Great attention to detail Tom and always a pleasure to watch and learn from/with you.

I do believe that your "Favorite little scraper" is not for dental work, but rather for ceramic work. we used those all the time for carving and such in high school! Look up "clay sculpting tools" It wont take long to fulfill your wildest scraping dreams.

Nice restore ! It breaks my heart to see a good tool destroyed through neglect. Bringing it back to usefulness eases the pain some. Thanks

Very nice! BTW, Whoever Arthur Irving Jacobs was, he was a freakin genius!

Great restoration Tom, always awesome to breathe life back into the dead and kick start them again, turned out great. Loved some of the suggestions below for the use of bags, glass marbles etc to save on the fluid, sensible viewers watching your channel, great tp see

Great job Tom. Man I wish I'd seen a drill chuck like that for $2. I had a lovely old chuck that I wanted to restore I gave it to a friend so he could pop the sleeve off. With his press. He totally ended up ruining it. I was furious. As it was a quality swedish made chuck. Went straight in the bin. Gutted.

I’m fixin to recover a neglected something something “33” Jacobs and this video inspired me. Second time through and definitely filled with GEMS of useful knowledge!

I use Evaporust in an ultrasonic parts cleaner. 24 hours is reduced to an hour or less.

Ford actually does this fracture technique with the rods on their modular engines. They machine the whole rod and cap all in one piece then they fracture it on the separating line so they become a matched pair. I was told by an engineer that this makes them stronger and obviously the machined surfaces are pretty much guaranteed to stay true to their original planes. Pretty cool technique.

$2.00 bucks for a tool that would have cost around $500.00 brand new, well worth the rebuild. Interesting video.

Love turning "rusted junk" into usable tools - on the cheap, too. Another great way to remove the rust is with Electrolysis... a battery charger, some sacrificial ferrous material (old brake rotors, re-bar, etc.), water and Arm & Hammer washing soda.. does a great job.

That dental tool is used for the finer sculpting in making impressions, and anything else...

The technique of breaking the part to make a matched fit was done on large cast iron pulleys before the turn of the century (pre 1900). The method is used in both the plain and ball bearing Jacobs chucks. I've saved old Jacobs chucks that the nose was heavily battered causing the jaws to missalign by machining off a short distance until the jaw seats were straight. Chucks that the arbor is too tight to remove by normal methods can have the body drilled from the jaw side into the arbor space and then a punch used to drive out the arbor. A few Jacobs models have repair kits. I bought a kit for one of my ball bearing chucks and it did not include all the wearing parts. If the bearings are not brinelled the balls can be replaced if standard ones if they are rusted or damaged.

I clicked on this because it looked so much like an Ave video.

Amazing. Credit to the makers for build quality and materials. Great video. I thought that joke with the shrunken chuck was inspired by ToT. I looked at myself in the mirror after watching this and reminded myself that all the internal workings are okay but I could do with some rust removal. You could have run a poll before hand on whether this is serviceable.

G’day Tom, from garden art to a working tool, Super. Cheers Peter

The helical groove was put on the tapered shaft to facilitate removal of air from a blind bore. As you know you can compress air but when pressing is done it will push back out somewhat. I am not aware if the hole is blind or through on the chuck. If through the helix does not matter as it would if blind. Keep up the great work and peace too. Victory First.

Nice save, well worth the effort to have a backup chuck.

Idk if any one answered you on the dental scraper but it's called a Discoid/Cleoid. You can buy them in sets with all different ends and angles from any medical tool manufacturer. It's for the toolbox top drawer micro tools section. I use my set more than you can imagine. I love the tool breakdown videos. I do the exact same thing. Love knowing how things work and are put together. AvE recommended you and I've been watching ever since. Keep it up. Even if it is just a drill chuck, it's worth watcging.

18N is my favorite chuck. But how does the run out check?

The looks of that chuck once apart is it's kinda like an old friend with acne. Looks rough on the outside but with a heart of gold!

Mr Bozo forgot to say "Proudly sponsored by WD-40"...

Hello Tom, Thank you for passing along your expertise. I think the dental instrument you have there is a waxing instrument . It could possibly be a periosteal elevator but the pointed end would be fairly destructive way to separate the gum from the bone. In any case a waxing instrument will be 10x less money than a periosteal elevator and you can get them as a set on Amazon . Sincerely harry

12:40 .. that arbor press is badass!

The tool is for wax build up of crowns and bridges for investment casting, it is heated with the alcohol or bunson burner then used on the wax to form it and add detail.

you need to soak it in white vinegar for 24 hours and it will look like new again. i use it on all kinds of rusty parts even saw blades . and its real cheap just $ 2.50 a gallon

Really beautiful job! I repair computers now but got started working as a machinist apprentice in a little job shop and your restoration brought back a lot of great memories Thanks

You have some species of periosteal elevator there. I'm not familiar with the spade shaped end but I have a few used ones from work that I haven't found a use for which are the same style as the curved end. I can check a catalog if you want to know the names. PM me if you are interested and I can send you a few.

Well done. I feel inspired and empowered to clean up my own chucks. Thanks sir.

May not be a "Queen of the Dance", but will sure work well enough to justify spending two Bucks on. Nice resto. Tom - you might think about making some more resto. vid's! :)

It's great to give new life to discarded tools. I went to a car boot sale this morning and picked up 2 pairs of rusty Bernard pliers and a 0-1" micrometer that is seized solid! They are now all enjoying a nice soak in Evaporust, I find it usually works wonders.

Dang, takes me back to working on our fully-rusted-solid Colchester!

Some times people put a mark in the arbor to try different spindle/arbor/chuck positions until they find one that minimizes runoff. Just a swag :)

How does the WD40 compare price-wise to Evapo Rust? Looks like it works well.

I believe the grooves is for the oil to sit in to keep the arbor lubricated and as you said to make it easier to take out later on. I have seen the same concept for bushings so maybe who ever had them put in had the same idea.

The black handled double ended instrument is a dental wax carver used when a dentist or lab tech is making dental castings. I have several in my waxing kit.

Another success in the can, have missed your videos Mr.Lipton, hoping for more to come. have now watched every video you have published on you-tube.In addition to Abom79 and Mr.Pete222,Mr. Fenner,Mr. Rucker, Mr. Richards and have garnered many inspiring tidbits&tadbites of knowledge with a heaping dose of humor would that I'd had this when I was school aged but Retirement has given me All of your excellent companionship

My guess is the grooves help the air escape from the blind hole.

Very Impressive, kind of make you think of all those rusty tools I passed by at boot sales. Will be more attentive in future.. Great restoration and thank you for putting it up there.

"HONEY I SHRUNK THE CHUCK"

Hurricane took on my little home shop years ago, finely built a new one most of the machines were to heavy to blow away. Bought a new chuck but will work on the old one now.

Thanks for making this video Tom. I enjoyed it. Nothing wrong with that chuck now. Just a few scars.

Those grooves/lines, as you suggested, look like lubrication slots to me to provide just enough so you can remove the shank. Great restoration. I'll be giving that WD-40 rust remover a try!

Well, ya just de-rust it, take it all apart and clean it up, lube it and put it back together. You know the drill

Great restoration video. You've got a good old chuck there. As of about 7 or 8 years ago...Jacobs moved all their manufacturing to China. So you've got a good American chuck.....needless to say a much better quality tool than anything made overseas. Putting it in a lathe however is not any kind of a test for a drill chuck. You need to put it in a mill and check the run-out. Especially since you removed the arbor which I would never do. (Unless you're only ever gonna use it in a lathe) Nice job tho Brutha! You saved a valuable tool destined for the scrap yard. Well done!

This video brought to you by WD-40. Seriously though, I need to get some of that rust remover. That stuff worked great!

A friend of mine from Tasmania was given a box of junk bits that had once been a fairly crappy Chinese lathe. By a turner called Metal Mike. He expected it to go for scrap. One week later, Mike went to visit Taz again; and Taz was using the lathe to make 316 Stainless parts. Since then I have seen Taz save or repair many things that others left for scrap. He now has about 12 major tools including a Bridgeport Mill, a Cincinnati cutter Grinder, a Snow surface grinder, a big Do-All Band saw and many more including THREE good lathes. All of this fills two large workshops in Sheffield. Each bigger than Aboms home shop. There is NO SUCH THING as a hopeless case.

Do I need a life, cos I just loved watching this vid ... haha, im 60 and did an engineering apprenticeship back in the day, cheers.

Really enjoying your videos. Thank you for doing them. On the dental theme, I use old tooth brushes for cleaning things & they are especially useful for cleaning & oiling or greasing threads. Best wishes.

9:42 it’s knows as the oil circulation! The oil flows through that lines 😊

After it's been hardened it's cooled with liquid nitrogen, put in a jig and then snapped with a sudden lateral force. BMW used to do this with rods and end caps in some of their performance engines. I'm sure others have done it as well... just don't mix up what rod goes with which end cap.

Rust is a deceiver, hiding the good (or bad) that is there. You just don't know what you have until you take the time to clean it off. Coastal areas, especially. 1/1000 depth rusted can expand an incredible amount and make the object look like it was absolutely ruined.

Rust tip: decide before starting between oils and rust remover/converter. Oils will block the rust removers which are mostly water born acids. You should have some sort of a solvent step to deal with any existing oils for best results preferably a semi-polar solvent like MEK or acetone so the solvent stuck in the inner parts doesn't just act like oil. Also rust removers tend to leave the metal 100% bare so flash rust is common even while the rust remover(or rinse water if residue matters) finishes evaporating.

Pfft. I reckon if the Big Fella had found it for 2 bucks it wouldn't be garden art.

And I was depressed with the small amount of rust I found on mine. TY for sharing. I feel better now. lol

Can you check the chuck for runout and compare it to one of your other chucks?

I did 9 years of dentistry, but can honestly say I've never come across anything like the triangular piece. The opposite end could well be a "spoon excavator" but in my time 60's to 70's I only came across a double ended spoon excavator, not one with a triangular piece on one end. Plus they were somewhat smaller. They were used to remove decayed matter inside a cavity. I recall dropping one and ass I bent down to retrieve it, the darned thing stood upright during it's bounce and I put one end clean through my hand, bloody painful and rather scary after it had been used inside a cavity inside someone's mouth. After quickly pulling it back out plus a tetanus shot I had no infection. Love the way the chuck came out after it's bath. I've done similar derusting by electrolysis, it also works well.

Tom is back! We've missed you!

Aloha Tom thanks for posting this. Here on Maui if something stays out for a week it needs restoration. ;) the sea air if rich with salt in fact it differentially rusts steel inside from the top to the bottom

If I'm wrong on this I'll say "I'm sorry" but, I'm ok with product placement, etc - It's nice to hear of stuff and how it work - It's also nice to be up front about said placement. Ok I've said it, now - Excellent restoration on that chuck, those are just too expensive to toss in the bin!

Well, I for one am glad that you have nothing better to do. This was a blast, and you've totally inspired me to take a stab at some of the old rusty tools that I've found over the years and stuck up on a shelf as I tell my self I'm gonna fix it some day. Great fun. Great video. Well done!!

Garden art is my new favourite insult!

You can avoid all that mess by using wood bleach and water. mix per directions and let it sit for two days and all rust is dissolved. been using it on my vintage snowmobiles for years, when finished you can just throw down the drain. hope this helps

Oh wow. The Famco 3 1/2 R. That's awesome.

When you're finished with the WD rust remover, put the tub on a mag chuck table energised. It pulls lots of the iron out of suspension. Then decant back into the jug.

Wax carver is the tool you're looking for.

Definitely do clean your other chucks. I just disassembled and cleaned a few super chucks I have. I found the newer ones have a plastic ball cage and a simple hardened washer instead of the raceway. It is easier to work with, but is a bit less smooth. The oldest one has a number stamped on each jaw/finger so you can't mix them up. The N11 uses 5/32 balls as I found out when I dropped and lost a few. Those things sure do bounce on a smooth concrete floor. Luckily a local hardware stocks bearing balls so I was able to recover from that Bozo mistake quickly.

"decant the smooge" haha. I have a drawer full of rusty stuff- i need to try this!

I fix stuff like this all the time. I pay next to nothing at garage sales, but more than original cost on Ebay. There is Evapo Rust and there is washing soda electrolysis. Lately I have been doing 24 Volts overnight. I could do that restoration, but lack Tom's great video making ability. Great photography and storytelling.

Instead of "zombie", why not "Lazarus" ……….back from the dead! Your package is on the way!

I love the way you cleaned the container before you placed the beautiful chuck in it.

Oh hell yes! I like restoring things. I've also been pretty good at fixing things are considered to be unfixable, hence my nickname 'wizard;. No I'm not a real wizard, I'm just self taught in many things.

The instrument is a #7 wax spatula. Dental labs use the "lost wax" casting process. The spatula is used for adding and carving away wax. Yours has a fancier handle than most I've seen.

I'm at 6:15 and saying to myself "I hope he presses it apart and cleans up the inside parts individually"...

After soaking for 24 hours I would have put the chuck key in and cranked it maybe a quarter of a turn and then dropped it back in the juice. One thing I use for really rusted stuff is a dilute solution of hydrochloric acid in water and use a battery charger and a piece of rebar and do electrolytic soak. Anytime you're working with threads it's better to just break them free and let the rest remover soak in and the electricity helps electrolytically break the rust loose from the metal. I don't remember offhand which polarity I use but it should be easy enough to figure out.

The dental tool is either a wax carver or a periosteal elevator

I never knew these chucks were rebuildable, I have 4 that came from My uncles shop sitting, Hope they turn out this nice, Thanks.

A $2 find, and $50 worth of rust remover. Is it worth $52?

I think they cut the spiral grooves in the chuck end taper to lock the chuck to the taper. Not saying that is right to do, but maybe it slightly raised the edges where the groove is cut and then when pressed in it locked to the chuck. Just my guess.

Monday evening of what month? Wow! It cleans up better than I do. I always thought Mr.Bozo was just a goof ball that screwed up stuff but yours has a mouth AND an attitude !

I got 5 tailstock chucks that were in that condition when I bought my recent lathe project. Managed to rescue 4 of them. (without the aid of any WD40 product).

That dental tool looks more like something used in ceramic/clay modelling.

I love watching other people work... nice job. Thanks for the heads up on the WD rust eater.