I want to thank you again for taking the time to show this setup, It took me some time to get most of it figured out . I'm not using the rpm based system I'm using a map sensor only to tune mine because I'm using a turbo. Seems to work well so far.
@@TorqHubhaving an issue at the moment I'm building a twi nturbo sbf 347. I'm running a crank trigger, msd 6al-2 box, AND an msd timing boost master, I'm trying to run the engine in the floor before setting in the car to make sure all is up to par first, however I've got both red wires and the red hot from the timing master to the battery hot, all grounds are on the battery, coil hooked up, etc. However on my 6al2 instead of light being lit solid red it flashed with the spark, yet I'm not getting any spark whatsoever. You ever seen this?
Any reason why you're running a 6AL-2 and a boost timing master? Considering you can pull timing by boost with the 6AL-2, maybe get rid of the boost timing master and eliminate one point of complexity/failure
@TorqHub the 6al-2 that I have is the ealier version its not the programmable one like you have, it's just the 6al-2 multi spark with with 2-step. According to the directions from the boost master, it HAS to be ran with some sort of secondary msd box.
Great video yet again, always been wanting to know a bit more about the 6AL2 boxes, good insight so thanks for that! maybe heading down for the Bunbury car museum show in the morning
Thanks BAD Q Garage, glad you got something out of it. Hope it's a good turnout down there, would have liked to have a peek ourselves, but we're both on nightshift this weekend 👎 Enjoy mate, and thanks for watching 😁
Nice video, I was wondering how the timing changes work. Can you set base timing say 38° total then start timing table off idle at 25° then pull a few degrees more as rpm rises then start adding more timing back? I have issues right now where I can only run 15° initial and 28°total, but has a stumble off idle, if I set timing at 25° initial it works great except has valve rattle on hard acceleration. Thanks
Absolutely you can Jeff. These programmable ignition boxes are perfect for that kind of thing. Can really tailor your ignition curve right across the range with the only limitation being your rotor phase.
Good question! I'll be honest mate I haven't tried to hook up to the box with the battery disconnected. But I'm pretty sure the ignition switch/box can be powered off and still communicate with the computer as it still has a constant 12v power source
The XY is run on E85. This was a fairly conservative base table to get the car rolling and wasn't a true reflection on the final tune after it was done on the dyno.
@Torq Hub Media thanks , unfortunately I'm trying to tune for 93 octane. If e85 was easier to get I would probably just do the conversion, but also use as a daily driver.
We ended up putting alot more timing in this combo by the time it was done, if you set at 24° base with a 14° crank rpm retard and the same boost retard, I'm confident it would work fine as a starting point . But of course you should read your plugs/use a dyno for confirmation.
@Torq Hub Media I'm currently at 38° across the curve with a 10° crank retard and pulling 2 1/2 degrees per pound of boost, only running 6psi. For some reason this engine likes a lot more initial timing than any small block ford I've ever built.
Absolutely mate, it works the same as a normal MSD box. If you have no boost or nitrous yet then you just don't need to set up a MAP sensor or a boost/nitrous timing curve which pulls timing for the application
Soldering is the lowest loss connection you can make on two wires period. There is no connection that will work better. More convenient as in easier to disconnect yes. Better? No.