I used to think wasting flux was a bad approach, but replacing IC’s with their specifics on a motherboard probably rakes in a lot of money, where that amount of flux used is nothing, price-wise
@@Kabivelrat i understand that, and that is the problem for me, as i plan my life around d what ifs so i am not surprised by something i cant handle. As that lacquer will also prevent the solder beads from sticking to it well, and that part looks like something that is designed to be mobile, the chances of one of those beads getting loose and causing other problems is a chance i would be rather irritated about.
The USB trick is neat but do not ever use paste like this. This creates tiny beads of solder balls underneath BTCs like these and adjacent components that can cause shorts if they were to ever come loose or even on initial start up. I have plenty of x-ray images of assembled boards that failed as a result of improper cleaning of solder paste on a failed print. Though the cause is slightly different, the result is the same. When using solder paste for BTCs of any kind, apply the paste to the individual pads and do not add additional flux as it's completely unnecessary and can cause the mix to activate improperly. When using hot air, it's quite easy to get the flux in the paste to become quite "runny" also potentially causing the same issue. It's best to heat paste slowly to prevent this. You may have done hundreds or even thousands of repairs like this, but it only takes 1 to ruin someone's day or worse.
@@dannefan_senshi perhaps a couple times. Lol. I work in a facility programming machines that do this kind of work automatically. But I also do rework and minimal electrical designs myself as well. Helps to know all sides of the trade.
@@robertheintz8017 Surface tension keeps it in place unless you lift it or accidently bump it. It's always best to practice over and over again with junk boards and hot air to get use to lifting, moving and resoldering until you get the hang of it. Also flux is your friend, the more the better...
@robertheintz8017 for the most part, they do, however each individual component is REALLY light, and liquid solder has some surface tension to it that the component's metal pads stick to. You can actually see this when the new component is soldered back down, as soon as the solder paste melts, the component melts, the component shifts slightly to align its pads to the boards pads. If you use the correct amount of paste (which the guy in the video almost rarely ever does) then the chip will almost perfectly align itself (granted it started close enough aligned already)
This is *not* the way to do SMD rework. Using solder paste in this situation, without a stwncil, AND THEN going in with a soldering iron is possibly the worst way to go about this. Just leaving the original solder in place wouldve been better than this. Wicking and adding more solder using solder wire would have been best.
@@ok-lg1ng ru-vid.com/group/PLt1Wl2sFbiRhg3Y6EyFTr5wA8_g5zyFWJ&si=D0It4OWgKRdgfbcf Hi, I've scraped my YT Playlists to provide you with some vids from known Electronic Repair-Specialists. Containing clips about the soldering basics and techniques. as well as Tools, Fluxes, Solder with lead or not. Micro-Soldering Tutorials and finally a pro level PS5 - APU/BGA Reballing Video, which I found very interesting . 🍻 Cheers ... /f
honestly you should just get a soldering iron for the re-tinning. just throw flux on the board, dab a bit of solder to the iron and drag it acrost the pins. works waay more easy them using the paste. ive been doing board repair for the past 4 years as my primary job and i have never touched solder paste other then reballing a chip once.
@@f1lab535Unless you are working on giant pads or you have a really crappy iron, it really doesn't make that big of a difference...I always just dab solder wire to my iron tip, it works just as good and it's way less messy...
@@hacktheplanet. That's not true in almost any situation. If something needs to be explained for you to understand it, it's almost always fine to ask about it.
I watched the video several times in magnification, especially the part during and after attaching the chip. Because when I first saw the video I thought that there must be extra solder all around. Yes, the circuit board and the tracks on the circuit board are protected. But of course the SMD pads are not. Otherwise it would be difficult to solder anything on. And despite the fact that they are working with hot air, which doesn't seem to be particularly precise, I didn't see anything that would indicate any additional solder on the pads. I'm really fascinated! Yes, air is a good conductor, which is why the side winds (I'll just call them that) of the air flow cool down quickly and don't reach the necessary heat for the solder to connect somewhere other than where it should. I'm really "blown away" by it! Soldering is really cool! Good job by the way! 👍
I build electric guitars and im meticulous about solder and precision joints and this just blows my mind lol i would think a circuit board would be much more fragile
Ive been soldering various piping systems for 23 years and i know nothing about circuitry so using copper wire as a sponge for molten solder may be a typical technique, but to me its friggin magical
Solder wick is braided and made specifically to remove solder. I have always marveled at how well it works...the more flux the better. Not sure about using those solder beads, seems extreme...I'd just add a little solder to the pads and solder it down
The motherboard is now turning on and displaying all ok, i spent another hour tweaking the bios settings and it stopped displaying again haha, after another reflash now it working fine again.
You Right I thought the same thing... Why u use this small balls it's going everywhere and under all over the components. A normal flux much better for this situations
Понимаю что автор специально льет много флюса, чтобы вытащить знатоков на написание комментариев. Иначе как добиться нужных реакций на видео - Сделать не правильно )))
Честно говоря, это был метод, который я усвоил, когда только начинал. После 10 лет опыта я значительно улучшил свой рабочий процесс, но после того, как я запустил RU-vid, я пытался делать профессиональные видео, но никто не задумывался о том, насколько это профессионально, я начал работать со своим старые методы и люди смотрят и им нравятся, пожалуйста, брат, скажи мне, что бы ты сделал, если бы ты был на моем месте? Учитывая, что я бедный парень, живущий в сумасшедших условиях.🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Но вы должны поверить мне, когда я говорю вам, что если вы нанесете такое количество флюса (максимум 3-5 мл), вы снизите вероятность повреждения следов на плате и защитите плату от прямого нагрева, а флюс поможет. лучше распределяете тепло, и у вас больше преимуществ, и все это с несколькими дополнительными каплями флюса❤
@@djskylex есть такое понятие - рациональность и себестоимость. Хороший флюс - стоит огромных денег и его нерациональное использование, мягко говоря, приводит к перерасходу материалов и денег. Да - можно перекладывать сие на плечи клиентов, но если есть конкуренты - рано или поздно они уйдут от такого мастера или оный станет банкротом.
Какой флюс? ТьІ думай про вторую работу, чтобьІ репарации мне платить, а не про флюсьІ. Забирай своего ивана с моего дома и устраивайся на вторую работу, ибо на одну зп не проживешь.
@@crypt8902 Thanks! I just meant the process. I understand the terms with soldier, desolder, wicking and all that but I'm not quite sure about this actually takes place overall. It's something that meant to look up for a few years but you know life lol. Thank you for your information and answer, I appreciate it!
@@misury it's more about tools than info , it's easy process to do with chips like 8 pims , actually you can just repeat like what he did on video, and get a great result ! but it's getting really hard long job if you working on phones or cpu sockets 😬 some times it goes like it's about what's your luck that day 😂
That solder paste deployment was mids. Doing it like this with skill will work, but applying with a smaller syringe will save you problems later. There's no reason to have those solder spheres rolling around in the case you missed them on cleanup. Most people watching don't realize the skill lever for even this chip replacement.
This flux will stay under the chip and corrode the connection. No good! Dont soak it in flux like that! Better to just ramp up and cool down the rework temperature to melt the solder properly with minimal flux use.
That's a lotta paste and flux, but also looks like there's conformal coating, so might be fine. But get a needle dispenser for both and you can cut that out.
I never repaired electronics like that. You just don’t need that much flux and you don’t let the solder just flow all over the board. Now you’re going to spend time figuring out where it’s shorted elsewhere. And replacing additional components. If you keep doing this laziness you’ll never actually fix the problem. Is using a soldering iron really that difficult??
My god I hate that solder wick braid stuff it always takes me about an hour to get all the solder off. The last time I needed to solder a wire to a PCB as the negative battery cable had pulled. I spent ages trying to get enough solder wicked off the pcb so I could stick a new wire thru the hole, and this is a tiny pcb probably about 1" square. In the end I had the genius idea of just using a really fine drill bit to clean the hole up, which worked a treat.
You didn't actually need to remove the flash. You can upload UEFI firmware by connecting an external programmer to the connector on the side of the flash, which you covered with a metal piece. If there is no fault in the flash chip, there is no need to bother removing it.
Can you link the solder and flux you’re using here, and the air and iron temps you used? It all seemed to run exceptionally well and turned out better than my last few repairs 😅
헐.납 패드가 저렇게 넓은데 굳이 저렇게 가성비 안 나오게 할 필요 있나?저러면 사장님 망해요. 그냥 열풍기로 열 가해서 ic제거하고 납 한번 묻여주고 솔더윅한다음 tc로 세척해준다음 다시 얇게 재납해주고 플럭스 발라준다음 열풍기로 붙이면 됩니다. 아니면 솔더윅 하고나서 TC로 세척한다음 플럭스 살짝 발라주고 크림솔더로 살짝 도포해준다음 열 가하면 되죠. 지금 영상의 3배는 빨리 작업할수있고 기계가 한것 처럼 이쁘게 됨.
I see alot of people using this solder paste...I hate using that stuff, it makes such an unnecessary mess most of the time...I guess as long as you clean really well it doesn't make a difference, but I have never had issues just using a roll of solder wire to put a bit of solder on my iron tip
Congratulations!! if you know how to do this stuff. When I try I burn and things don't look pretty. 99% of it I don't understand. Normally replace circuit board and not worry about it
Do people in factories for every board made put all the hardware onto the boards like this? I would imagine high tech machines do it to meet production deadlines.
Too extra on this. Too much heat vs time and the thermal shock of the alcohol on the surrounding hot SMD parts like that ttransistor and regulators. Reducing chip life. Clean the pads and use wire solder instead of solder paste. Too much of a mess to clean up after. I cant spend a lot of time on a repair like that. I have too much work to do anything that slows me down. If you hear hissing when alcohol is applied or it boils off, its too hot. Yes it may work fine but reduced chip life
I will never understand why you guys use solder paste. I mean, it gets the job done but I could do it much faster with a lot less clean up with 63/37 leaded solder. And the biggest part about it is you don't have to worry about a solder ball getting between two tiny components and creating a short.
What a terrible way to use solder paste. Pieces of solder are everywhere now. Use it with a stencil when reballing a chip, cleaning up the excess away from the board you're working on.
The copper mesh is supposed to stay on the spool, you cut off what is used and bad AFTER USING IT because keeping it on there removes almost nothing, as you have to wait till you grab another tool to take it off, where I just saw so much nasty shit just go right back in… not sending you my shit
what is that glittering thing that seems to be used to clean and weld in the same time. Same for that gel...used before and after.. You heat it, it come out, you heat it again, it stick... wtf...
Makes it look easy doesn't he folks. Remember not to burn a land, or loosen those resistors right next door. Oh yeah, by the way, he's working under a microscope.
