I enjoyed this video a lot even though you didn't show port replacement. Suggestion: put a link to parts in the notes. One of those deals where you get a small percentage of the sales. Or you could sell them yourself. Just ideas to make a few bucks from ppl all over the world who can't go to your shop.
My Asus laptop f17 gaming has a bunch of small points in the charging point so i want to connect a powerbank to its charging port but i cant connect because one side i have + and - while in the laptop charging port it got some 3-4 points
Hey do teardowns of the old jacks and try repairing them. I mean, they're 20 cents or so in hundreds without reseller hijinks, but if the leaf contacts and springs inside aren't oxidized much and you're saving 6 days wait...
i subscribed because not only was it informative like crazy , like it showe the places where to measure an showed the metre everything , loved it , please do keyboard if u get a chance for same laptop or gf75 thin series msi thanx a bunch
You can search "msi gf65 dc port" and you will find the part. And to be 100% sure that you get the right part, you may have to open the laptop and check the DC port before ordering it.
I already knew the problem with laptop, but without even replacing the power brick for the laptop. I measured the continuity of the positive of the jack to the one on the board. I got the part myself
can u tell me if i bought right dc port for my ms1 gf75 thin gaming laptop --Zahara 5PCS DC Power Jack Charging Port Replacement for MSI GF75 Thin 8RC 8RD 9SC 9SD Gaming Laptop -
Hah, if you wanted a reliable connection you could clean in an ultrasound tank you'd solder a LEMO connector or the like on...but ofc it would wag out from where the jack was and you get to change out the charger connector likewise. Have fun! [Plugs 18 kW Tesla charger into cooling/tilting bit under laptop.]
Fwiw, i tried soldering but it didn’t work so well as the solder was brittle and the port needed some malleability due to the inherent force when we plug the charger in.
Not for power, you want to maintain 800°C to tin the legs of the socket that are inserted into biggish vias in the PCB (but which carry no current) plus beefy via connections farther into the case which do, plus the sense wire connection. You wouldn't treat a USB-C wiring connection like that even if it wrangled 230 W.
If you want to see if there is a fault on the motherboard, then take out laptop main battery, plug laptop back in if it starts and runs without battery, motherboard is ok, if not, motherboard has a problem.
Hey, thanks for the vid but question. What are the two legs on the side of the port closest to the edge of the Mobo? Are those additional negative terminals? I assume you alternatively used the silver metal case of the component as a negative terminal? Thanks.
@@danfromtechnesia Thanks any tips you can give me for desolvering the DC port. It won't desolder. Tried adding flux and using a desoldering wick. Desolder wont liquify. Using a new iron at 480C. What temp did you use? Is that temp enough?
800° for that chungus. (Plus use flux, preferably a hot air rework thing.,) 800°C for the wings of your USB-C that need replacement too but down at 460°C for the leads, just enough that solder flows for ya, you're not soaking heat through a powerplane you see.
If you want to factory reset take out CMOS battery rebuild plugin but don't boot up leave plugged in for 10 20 mins, unplug replace CMOS battery rebuild reboot remember to reset time and date in bios reboot again
Hello nice video! I have one question. My mag 15 (thongfang chassis) laptop has the same problem. i have found the original charging port but really long shipping times. can i use same looking port with the same ac adaptor input of 2.5 mm inside/5.5 mm outside? Or does it have to be "original" otherwise i would just install a charging port from a different brand but with same characteristics. Thanks
