I have a Craftsman with a Hydrostatic transmission and it uses 80/90 gear oil. Walmart sells it for around $15 per gallon. Changing the fluid is a good idea.
I've owned the lawn chief, white, yard man, ranch king, huskee, yard machine version of this tractor...all of them make the hi pitch trans noise,...as far as the issue of it not moving when hot I did have a similar situation that I drained the trans put fresh fluid in and I also adjusted the pressure swich on it aswell
On the craftsman mower the lever that goes down into the transmission begins to bind up getting dry then the lever flexes like a fishing rod not engaging the gear. I found bearing grease in the transmission, no oils. Just sharing the problem I had.
My Husqvarna after 3 years started acting the same. Was told the hydro was shot. We changed oil and it didn't help. While doing that I saw belt was fairly tight but rubber was hard and belt looked worn thin. Got a cheap belt at auto parts store that fit in pulley's much tighter. Problem solved. I think the old belt wore down so far and got hard it was slipping. I didn't think that would matter with a hydro. I cut a couple decent size hills so I think when the hydro has to pump harder it takes a toll on the belt ?
Check the fluid level under the seat. Also check the belt that drives the pulley on top of the trans. The drain plug is on the side of the case near the bottom. Sounds like it's low on fluid
I have a 2011 mtd gold hydro 42-inch. I was mowing just fine, then it just stopped moving. No reverse either. I haven't changed the drive belt because it is still on. It seems frayed though. Should I just put on a new belt? Thanks.
What are you doing with all those pallets? And i guess id start with just checking the fluid if you even can... i would think if its low it would act goofy like a auto trans in a car would
I rebuilt one once, split case apart, the old 'fluid' was dried up. I cleaned it up and went to local lawn tractor dealer and he sold me some clay based grease, I filled per his instructions, put back together and she pulled like new. I ended up selling that mower, got for free, fixed for $20, got $350 for it so using a model identical to this one.. It started groaning going up hills this season, and now it will not go up hills and half speed on flats so time to take this one apart. Thought see a vid on taking one apart, and the name for this clay based grease used as I do not live near that location any longer. So if I do not find one, will show people how it was done...
Mine backfires too, think that indicates time to pull head off and decarbon the piston, fuel soaks that carbon and ignites when shut down due to heat soak...
Pull that pin on the back of the transmission out, start the engine and move the shifter to drive for 5 seconds. You will not move. Then put it into reverse for 5 seconds. Again you won't move. Then put the shifter into neutral. Shut off the engine and push the pin in. Repeat the process with the that pin on the back of the transmission in. The only difference is that you will move. I had a similar problem with my riding mower. I tried this and it worked. If this doesn't help, try adding belt dressing or replacing the belt.
Did you get it fixed. Sounds like it's low on fluid and possibly the filter inside the transaxle needs replacing. I would also check into getting those leaks fixed.
i used to work at a small engine shop and had tons of those transaxles fail. try a fluid change first of course but if you have another trans be prepared to swap it. the pumps are what fail in those and that's what the whining noise is.
The whining doesn’t always mean it’s inside the transmission.. a lot have been known to be the drive pulley splines get wore out and just spins on the shaft which causes the whining noise and no go.. check that 1st
check all the seals for leaks I noticed that the shifter seal go's bad because the shaft gets rusted an tears the seal up it will suck air an leak if the transmission wet with anywhere then it's probably a rubber seal if so the transmission will not work good
Sounds like either the belt is wore, or fluid is low. There's also an adjustment on alot of the petal style hydrostatic mowers. Yours being the lever shift may have round disc rather than a belt for the drive. If so, check the disc for wear on the rubber circumference. Maybe replace that. Good luck
Have you checked the condition of the front drive belt - could be just slipping. Also, there is a read drive belt. They can be replaced for about $8 each on the net.
you could always try.. what are you out 8 bucks and a couple of hours.. if it works great.. if not then you know, but if its leaking make sure to keep some extra on hand so you can top off as needed
There's one video on RU-vid for your unit which happens to be the same as the one in my cub cadet. It's pretty bullet proof as you would see from the video not much that can go bad besides a leak. In the video the guy found a valve that came loose inside a very simple fix.
My poulan was slipping after getting hot; I changed the fluid, belts and it did great for a couple of cuts (2 acres), then it locked in gear. Hasn't cut a blade since...
Chang the fluid it’s by cub Cadet buy it at tractor supply under the fan it’s s rubber plug remove what happens is the fluid gets thin flus it also put some yellow bottles trans x in it. It will work
Our 1994 Agway (Yard Machine) 16hp has never been apart and works great. It is getting tired thought. Till this day, regular engine oil changes and such, but never touched tranny except for belt changes. Who knows how many hours are on it!
I know this is an old video, but for other people searching. Most common things for these transmissions is the drive belt could be worn too much, or doesn't have enough tension due to being stretched too much. Or the tensioner might just need adjusted, or the tensioner spring too weak, ect... if any of these issues are the problem, then its a cheap fix. The next most common issue is that the fluid is too low, and/or its probably really bad/dirty as people never really change it. You would have to find a service manual to find the fill and drain locations. Which if its whining, its likely low on fluid. Which if the fluid is low, and you keep overheating it, then it will damage and/or destroy the transmission. You can try flushing and refill, see what happens. If it fixes it, another cheap fix. If it doesn't... probably have to swap it.
@@simonwatt8846 on a lot of mowers you can, you have to weld the spider gear in order to make it a "locked differential". There are a lot of people who turn old lawn mowers into "mud mowers" or a "off road mower" for use on farm ect, who perform this mod. There are videos on youtube about it.
First. Check the cooling Ventilator on the Gear and clean the Gearbox from Dirt to get better Cooling. Seems to overheat. The also change the Fluid by sucking it off and refill with fresh stuff. Mostly i thing its overheating maybee by broken coolingfanwings
I would think it's got to be worth trying flushing the transmission and putting new fluid in it, maybe with some automatic transmission stop leak to make the seals swell up and stop the dribble of fluid. It sounds much the same as an auto transmission slipping when it gets hot because the fluid is breaking down. If it has only recently started playing up you should be in time to save the transmission as it seems these transmissions generally fail when people continue running them with the problems. If nothing else, flushing the transmission and changing the oil will prove whether or not the transmission is savable or whether it is shot...
I've worked on many MtDs and I've owned a bunch of them. Your best bet really is to buy another transmission. They aren't too hard to replace, (I've done a couple myself) and it's probably your least expensive method. Changing the fluid could be sketchy and may not last. Like a few of the other commenters, I have also fixed Tuff Torq transmissions in Husquvarnas and John Deere's. But in your case, this is pretty much an MtD trans. They are fairly common. I would check for a rear and see what happens. Craftsmans have decent hydros, but at the same time if its an older one, it is built differently and really wouldn't fit too well. It definitely is worth fixing that motor is great. Just find a trans for it and you'll be ok.
Old video, but I am guessing fluid may be low? Check the seals and see if any are leaking. There is a plug on top that you can check to see if it requires fluid. It looks like a hydrogear 326-0510, which requires roughly 2.5 qts of fluid at full. You can dip a short screw driver in there and see if you have any fluid, should be relatively close to the top, maybe 3 inches on the screw driver.
First check out RU-vid user, Bah53 He had a similar issue with I believe a Craftsman or an MTD he was able to put a drain plug in the bottom of the transmission and refill it through the top factory fill hole, it did work and it did take care of the whining sound.
Mine had loose internal cap bolts, it is very common. Looks like a techumsah model. There are actually two chambers for gearoil and hydro fluid. Worked perfectly afterward. I took out 20 screws and split the case. It is pain to RTV and put back.
That cover you removed from the shifter prevents internal seal damage by keeping the pressure at an acceptable level. Too much pressure over time prolly destroyed the seals.
The center section on inside is worn and made out of aluminum when worn after it heats up the exspansion rate between it and the cylinder block inside change in temperature you loose pressure because it can’t mate as good against the surface the options you had was get a new trans or rebuild this one or have a shop make you a shim and jb weld shim to center section here your best answer
Yes, the rear hydrostatic transmission takes 20/50 motor oil. I have one that had water in the transmission. Sucked out the old milky oil and replaced with new oil. Working like a charm.
Old thread but this may help new viewers. If you have a hydrostatic transmission it uses fluid. If you have the variable drive transmission it uses grease. The confusion comes in when the manufacturer calls the transaxle an “automatic”. The variable drive has two belts and spins a pulley with a variable pitch increasing or decreasing the speed of the transaxle. A hydrostatic uses fluid pressure and pumps to drive the transaxle. Most of the later model hydrostatic drives found in the entry level mowers are sealed and the manufacturers state they can’t be serviced. The two main makers are Hydrogear and Tuff Torq. Both recommend using a 15W50 or 20W50 fully synthetic motor oil if you elect to change the fluid. Hydrogear specifically recommends Mobil fully synthetic V-Twin 15W50 motorcycle oil because it has a detergent package and anti shear additives that protects motorcycle combined engine and transmission with a common oil sump. On both model hydros it’s best to remove the transaxle to change the fluid. It’s easier than you would think. Typically one belt, four to six bolts holding the transmission and rear axle to the mower and two or three linkages that need to be disconnected. Jack the rear of the mower up with a floor jack supporting the frame not the transmission. Once the bolts and linkages are disconnected slide the entire transmission/axle and rear tires out from under the mower in one entire unit. Recommend spraying the unit down with a degreaser and rinsing with fresh water to remove grime and old debris. Hydrogear uses a breather port that can be unscrewed from the top or the transaxle housing. Tuff Torq has an actual drain/fill plug. On either model remove the fill plug or breather vent and rotate the transmission upside down over a large drain pan. Let it drain overnight. The Tuff Torq has a magnet at the mouth of the fill port, remove it with your fingers and clean off the metal debris with a rag. Keep the magnet safe till ready to refill. Fill either unit with the 50 weight oil via the breather port or the fill port. The Hydrogear take fluid till the fluid level is 1 1/2 inches from the top of the breather vent case opening. The Tuff Torq takes fluid till it covers the magnet you previously removed but not above the side cutout in the case internals next to the magnet. It’s easier to understand once you see the setup than it is to explain it by words. Replace the breather valve on the Hydrogear or reinstall the fill plug on the Tuff Torq. Reinstall the transaxle into the mower and run the transmissions through the purge procedure that can be found on their respective manufacturer websites or from an online video. A fluid change doesn’t always “fix” a failing hydrostatic but many times it resolves power loss issues from worn out fluid. It’s a much cheaper fix than a new transmission.
u can adjust the pressure on it.. my sears was doin that after it got warm... i used to work on lawn mowers did it for 23 years. i live in spartanburg ya need help it me up
Sounds like low fluid to me. Take the covers off of the mower so you can have a good look at that trans---I'm sure there are drain/refill bolts. I would not reuse any of the old fluid, it's been overheated---I would drain/refill.
Did you ever get the answer you were looking for? I'm learning how to do the work myself and I'm in the same boat with not getting the answers I'm looking for. Anyways I have the notion that you would just need to rebuild transmission
The reason it backfires is because you are dropping your revs as part of the shut-down. Mine did this a few times and scared the crap out of me - now I leave the throttle in the run position I have whilst mowing/driving then turn the ignition off. When the engine comes to a stop I close the throttle.
Iv fixed mtd hydro trans buy just putting new fluid in take the back fenders off and there is a black hose with a red cap take the cap off and you fill it there
I've had similar issues and I've flushed and refilled with success but it is not guaranteed to work it's simply trying to save swapping over trans. Don't top up drain fully and refill with all new oil
mine makes the same noise gets slower every year i take the top off regreese it... dosnt take fluid... works fine after that . backfires has plastic float that warps
my brand new jonsered lt 2313 a (now 4 months old and only has ~15 hours of work time) has a whining sound since i got it and it makes me feel like somethink is terribly wrong it has a bit of a hard time going up abit sharper hills (not talking about the reverse, it barely will)
My husqvarna 20 hp. dies going up hill after it gets hot, out still runs fine just won't go up hills. Mechanic told me the rear end is far apart and the fluid can't fill it (its full when cold) he said he'd have to put a new rear end in it.
Speaking of failure to follow up. Just check out sixtyfiveford here on youtube. Among many great videos, he does a 4 part rebuild of a Hydrostatic transmission (they're all the same), and it's simple. And if nothing else, it shows you how to add fluid, which is most likely you issue.... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lo5UILc52pE.html
The rear axel seal was leaking fluid. Once it leaked low enough the transmission would no longer pull. Replaced the axel seal, And refilled with oil and it worked fine again.
@@MXguy95 how did you refill it and where? I'm guessing you didn't make a video of it or I would have found it? Well, I'm glad it is possible but I don't think I'm going to invest that much time into my neighbor's mower. I was just going to do a simple sharpen the blades and oil change.
I just tried that, to no avail. It's had an axle replaced, so I'm guessing the wrong weight of oil was put back in it(owner thinks they used 15w40 Rotella). Gonna drain it completely and go with 20w50 syn. and hope for the best. You'd think that whoever the engineer was would have at least thought to put a damn drain plug on them. I bet they would in a hurry if they ever had to wrench on one much.
Been fixing atvs/utvs/mowers, usually i say if it still moves under its own power for sometime then its 90% of times just low on fluid(low on fluid makes cooling much worse, so it overheats and doesnt pull anymore, it cools down it alright again). But if it doesnt want to move at all you need new trans.
Your fluid is probably turning to sludge like mine. Says no need to service for life....no such thing. Consistency of watery cement...no metal chunks...but opaque black contaminated oil that was thick. Been flushing out the old for a good part of the day using a siphon pump since no drain plug. Took 2 gallons of new oil flush before the transmission would run a lap without making the oil instantly black. Working great again, silky smooth, quiet and oil is mostly clean after running for a while. You really need to change the oil in these transmissions each season for them to last the life of the tractor. Not a big deal actually if the asshat loser of an engineer put a drain plug in it. Company that makes these transmissions should be sued for a "sealed" design which was intended to fail prematurely. You will go through 10 of these in the lifetime of a mower if serviced according to the factory. Only 200 hours and my transmission was supposedly SHOT because the fluid had become sludge. Working now, but all that contamination must have done harm. Will know in the long run.
