The suction thing is a myth. I am a hunter in Germany and the grooves make no difference to me. They are more to lighten and stiffen the blade (think of steel I beams). Although this groove is so small it is probably only decorative. By the way I have this knife together with the Sarrio and Viper for winter use.
had a muela sometime ago. excellent knife but parted with it because it was larger than i normally use. unfortuntely dont see much muela cutlery in my part of canada.
i've drawn the line for surviving on the side that excludes using weapons, since our situation is temporary anyway still, i have no argument for those who include using weapons, for defense i really enjoy your reviews on weapons your familiarity and training w/ weapons comes through, in the clarity and naturalness of your presentation, so understandable you have been presenting an excellent example of the right attitude, for those who choose to include weapons in their survival strategy it is just one more thing to thank you for, amigo i love your channel it is the fresh air of sanity, in the face of the degraded, sleeping, mad matrix our little world has become muchas gracias, hermano
Hola Fernando, sigo tu canal en español, y justo estaba buscando sobre este cuchillo, la verdad le tengo muchas ganas, ya que no tengo ninguno de este estilo, saludos
Thanks for the education. I never knew what a Remate knife was (or more specifically what it was used for). I agree that Spain has very nice knife manufacturers. I have 2 actual Spanish Navajas. One I picked up at a Spanish truck stop on the outskirts of Barcelona when I was doing a consultant job there, and one I had to order once I was back in the United States. I also have a cheaper copy of Ailtor's Oso Negro. i picked that one up here in the States mainly for my personal protection due to my clients site and the Hotel I was staying in being in a not so nice part of town. Now one of the things that you have wrong is about the "Blood Groove" From the Wikipedia article on Fullers "A fuller is a rounded or beveled groove or slot in the flat side of a blade (e.g. a sword, knife, or bayonet) that are made using a blacksmithing tool of the same name (fuller). These grooves are often called "blood grooves" or "blood gutters" as well as fullers, although their purpose has nothing to do with blood. A fuller is often used to lighten the blade, much the way that the shape of an I-beam allows a given amount of strength to be achieved with less material. When combined with proper distal tapers, heat treatment and blade tempering, a fullered blade can be 20% to 35% lighter than a non-fullered blade without any sacrifice of strength or blade integrity. This effect lessens as the blade is reduced in length. A blade is said to be "fullered" after introduction of the groove." Still it is a very nice blade and it can be very usefull for the purposes that you mentioned.
winkleried Yes, the fuller is often (key word often) used to lighten the blade. This is especially true in swords and larger knives. sometimes it has the dual purpose of lightening the blade and avoiding the mentioned stuck blade problem. The "blood groove" is sometimes just a "blood groove" you'll see these as rather narrow lines along the blade which don't do much regarding weight reduction. I've seen some pretty narrow and deep grooves in older weapons. These are solely for avoiding the blade from getting stuck. As I said on the video, I had this happen to me once and was very much surprised by how the blade suck and how hard is was to pull out, requiring a lot of twisting to let air in and get the blade unstuck. In this specific knife, a blood grove it is. Notice how narrow it is and the location of the groove, just for the kind of problem you'd have when sticking a pig. Now for a bayonet, you'd generally have a larger, deeper fuller. this a) makes the blade lighter b) allows and avoids the blade from getting stuck c) makes for a blade that bends easier without breaking yet its more likely to go back to its origina straightl form like a spring, thanks to the "l" beam geometry. ;)
They started as we know them in 1952 I read elsewhere. By the way I have a question about these, I know it comes in a few basic models, some shorter and ones with a black coating both for rust prevention and less glint. Anyway I know the false edge is blunt, probably for legal reasons, but how well does it sharpen and if so, would it still be fully sturdy if done correctly? Also a funny one, when did the first Scorpion's get released, I've read an old review of other models implying they stick too good proven designs for sometime. In New Zealand and elsewhere they are called "pig stickers", I don't do it myself, but basically in dense bush firearms are often impractical and the dogs are holding it, so you dive in!
