I needed a multi position carriage stop for my 10" Logan lathe. In this video we make the main body and clamp of the carriage stop. Part 2 will be making the pivots and the adjustable stops.
Thank you for your efforts --- You can get the matching angle by either working a wooden model or using wax to make a model is very easy and you can sculpt it with your hand then the machine is blending on the same angle to work the desired mod
Too bad you didn't make a extra dozen and offer them for resale to us other untalented Logan owners. I'm going to have to try to duplicate this someday. Don't forget to put your maker's mark on it so that a hundred years from now. . . Keep up the great work!
Thanks! Some sort of import brand. Didn't have any badges on it when I found it on Craigslist. Just your standard column mill drill. Approx 10" x 30" of table travel. 2HP motor. Power downfeed. Can't take as heavy of cuts as you could with a Bridgeport but its not bad for hobby use. What kind of Logan do you have? I love my lathe.
Build Fix Create I have a Logan 825. Supposedly it's a tool room lathe. When I got it, it was used as a boat anchor and rusted shut. I still don't have power feed and threading on it as I have to replace a gear.
Not how I would phrase it. The first operation was slotting with a roughing end mill, and then you removed the outer section. Slotting is really hard on end mills, because the chips don't have a good exit path and you end up re-cutting your swarf. Excess wear on the end mill and worse surface finish (which obviously didn't matter here since you cleaned it up after). Cutting from the outside and then moving to your line would have been a more traditional and arguably more advisable approach. All that said, as a Logan owner I appreciate this video and project, and my feedback is meant to be helpful, not critical. Looking forward to more!
One other consideration is that end mills usually a wear out fastest on the very tips of the flutes, so any time you can optimize your cutting approach to minimize the work done by those flutes, the longer your tool will last, if that's a priority for you. For most home shop guys that is a priority. (For industrial production speed is worth far more than the tool, so that's not necessarily relevant.) So cutting at gill depth and moving across the part in, say, 3 passes, would have meant more cutting by the edges of your rougher and less by the very end, making that beautiful tool last longer.
Thanks for the explanation, makes sense. I will give it another try next time I use the mill. My experience (on my small - not very rigid mill) is that it doesn't like making deeper side cuts as compared to shallow full width cuts. If that makes any sense. It vibrates and I cant take a very heavy cut from the side. I get much less of that when advancing the cut downwards. But again, your explanation on tool wear makes perfect sense. I am just a hobbyist so I will happily take feedback when its explained like this. Thanks! Glad you like the videos!
