Hey! Now I have face with all the Carveco Maker videos I've been watching. Thanks so much for all your videos... you've been very helpful and informative. You make working with Carveco Maker so much easier!
YAAAS Weyland-Yutani! I have Weyland-Yutani and Weyland Corp logos all over my stuff, and create plaques as well. I haven't done a multicolor resin pour for it yet though, and it looks great! Good job.
Just a tip you may like to try to stop the epoxy chipping when machining. Machine the face from outside to inside in a clockwise direction and you will do a climb milling operation instead of conventional milling. This may help!
Are you a software developer? I am BD in EE and have been working on software in big PE for last 28 years so designing electronics, programming MPCs and making machines is my hobby and relaxation from boring work. BTW Carveco is similar with Artcam 2011, almost the same.
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation: 00:00 📹 *In this tutorial, the goal is to create a four-pour epoxy inlay for a well-known movie logo, involving multiple layers of epoxy pours.* 01:03 🎨 *To start the project, obtain an image of the logo you want to create and import it into Carveco Maker for tracing and vector creation.* 03:08 🖼️ *Adjust vector settings to achieve the desired angular and curved features for the logo and text in the design.* 07:05 ✒️ *Find a suitable font for the text in the logo and install it in the software for accurate representation.* 12:00 🎨 *Organize the design into separate layers for different epoxy pours, making it easier to manage and machine each color separately.* 15:22 🛠️ *Set up toolpaths for machining each color using V-Bit carving and, if needed, roughing tools for faster material removal.* 26:16 🚫 *Ensure the workpiece is securely fixed to avoid movement during machining to prevent errors.* 30:04 🌬️ *Overfill the epoxy pours to ensure the surface is level and then use a blowtorch to remove bubbles, repeating the process every 15 minutes for an hour or more.* 31:23 🗂️ *After the epoxy has dried, remove tape, reestablish the origin point, and set the Z zero on the actual board surface if the epoxy layer is higher.* 31:55 🛠️ *When setting up your CNC project with multiple epoxy pours, ensure that you consistently place your zero point for each pour.* 33:36 🌈 *Yellow epoxy may require a significant amount of pigment to achieve an opaque effect due to its translucency.* 35:09 ⚠️ *As you add more epoxy layers, be cautious of the increased thickness and adjust plunge depth accordingly to avoid cutting into previous layers.* 36:19 ✂️ *Use a Whiteside surfacing bit for leveling the epoxy layers, and do it in multiple passes to prevent chipping the epoxy.* 39:01 📏 *When cutting the final part out, set your lead in and lead out points at the corners where the start point is to facilitate part removal.* 41:24 🧊 *In the next video, the creator will tackle a larger epoxy project with around 14 or 15 pours, demonstrating more advanced techniques.* Made with HARPA AI
Hi. 36:15 . Can you tell me the parameters of the cutter? I want to process epoxy for the first time, I need to know the parameters of the cutter that levels the plane
Well you dropped this video at the perfect time! Followed along to do my first epoxy inlay. While your carves look clean, mine left a lot of "fuzzies" that need to be cleaned out. I used a Cadence 60V bit and copied the speeds and feeds from the video. Only difference was the epoxy. Any idea how to alleviate that in the future?
Hey Frank, fuzzies could be caused by a few different things. Hardwoods are generally going to give you less problems than more 'fibrous' (.... I think that's a word?!) softwoods like Pine etc. We used Meranti in this example. And if you're finding the fuzzies on Profile and Area Clearance cuts, look into getting some 'downcut' endmills. Experiment with different feeds and speeds as these will need to change for different materials. Finally - check that your bits are sharp! Fuzzies sometimes are just unavoidable and most times we have to go over the cuts with a wire brush if that's any consolation. Hope that helps!
@@Carveco It wasn't in the wood (I'm used to those). I cut out my "base layer", poured epoxy, cured a few days, and carved the design into the epoxy. That's when i got fuzzies. I was able to clean it out with a brass bristle brush. And the bit has only had a few carves under its belt. Your carve in the epoxy came out super clean, and it just made me jealous.
First, very informative. Second, and this is meant as construct criticism which will hopefully be useful feedback, not meant to be an attack in any way: I had to watch this at 2x speed. The overall pace is just WAY too slow for an informational video. Even at 2x speed there were times where it felt the pace was on the slow side still. I feel that the information in the video was good, and that it was the right amount of information (didn't give super deep into minute details) but the amount of information would suit a video in the 10-15 minute range. Again, please take this as constructive feedback and not the average internet keyboard warrior trashing everything. I would not have watched the whole thing if I didn't think there was value here.
Thanks Tim. We also felt the pace could be sped up, especially in the software section, but it is hard to give all of that information in such a short space of time. We could skip over things but then you have the flip side. I guess we need to find the right balance of giving enough information whilst making it shorter.
