Okay 4 tips from a former auto mechanic. One spray the bolts liberally with penetrating oil and let sit for 15 minutes and spray again. Two put a size smaller hex bit in there and small with a hammer to shock the tape to break them free. Three heat is your friend. Heat liberally with a torch to expand the housing to release the threads. Four and most important. Before reassembly thoroughly clean the threads on the bolt, and the unthreaded portion of the mounting plate with a wire wheel to remove any debris or rust that may cause the bolts to seize again. Also yes anti-seize is a must especially when dealing with dirty surfaces and torque values that high. When tourqing the bolts back down use a smooth motion until the torque wrench clicks (you may need to put a pipe on the end of the torque wrench for leverage), and once both bolts are on recheck the torque. A jerky motion can cause you to over torque the bolts, and either side being loose before final torque will give you a false click as you're putting sideways strain on the bolts when one side is loose. So always recheck torque after both bolts are tightened. One more thing I noticed you may want to put a 5 foot breaker bar against one carbide or the other with the back end on the floor to keep the head from spinning while you're trying to break the bolts free or torque them down.
A company I have worked with called Stucchi makes those connectors with the ability to connect/disconnect under pressure and they aren’t even that expensive. Very handy part for switching attachments like this 👍👍
Definitely helps to have some way to keep the drum from free spooling. If nothing else, get a wooden block and quick clamp to attach somewhere for an extra hand. Got your monies worth out of the ok’d teeth 👍🏼 Oh and a little antisieze goes a LONG way. Surprised you didn’t look like the tin man from wizard of oz when done lol
an oil can with some brake fluid in it, heat the tooth then put a drop of brake fluid on it. Brake fluid works when hot. Just do not get it on anything painted. it will blister paint. once around with the torch and brake fluid, then tap on each one before turning the bolt loose. This is how I was taught. You might try it. I like your videos. George.
I guess it's early and I need more coffee but it took me a while to figure out that you meant "complications" instead of "compilations" lol Thanks for the video though, really good to see what's involved in changing out these teeth!
Good Video. You should include more of the like. My Husband says to soak the teeth fasteners in penetrating oil for twenty-four hours prior to working. He says that Kroil oil is common. He said that before you apply thread lubricant, be sure to chase all fasteners with a die and then either run them through a wire wheel on a bench grinder or wire brush them real good. He said McMaster-Carr carries bulk brushes with stainless steel wire. He said to check how the coefficient of friction changes the torque value between either aluminum based or copper based thread lubricant. Good job on using thread lubricant he says.
Might have been helpful to make a lasso with ratchet strap to keep the drum from turning. A short extension wouldn’t have adversely affected the torque settings. It’s not like your building a motor.
Just a suggestion, but when torquing bolts, never do it in a jerky motion. You want a nice even smooth pull. When you jerk on them, you will not get accurate torgue, and when you are near 200 pounds, a 1/16 of a turn might be another 20-30 lbs/ft. Jerking to torque can easly go a 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn past.
Swearing wouldn't get the job done any faster but resting the drum on a stand so that it can't rotate would help considerably. Secondly, never work on an unsupported attachment. You need some heavy-duty axle stands or workhorses to support the cutting head. It is a lot safer that way.
Man, those were in there pretty darn good! Looks like an investment in an impact gun with a bit more oofta might be a good call! Got 'er done in the end, though! Be interesting to see how much better it cuts with the new teeth!
Nice video. A lot of times you have to manually break the bolts loose. This is due to the torquing at a higher level than the impact will reach. And the setting from vibration and dirt or rust. Also, jamming a piece of wood above the head will help with keeping it from rotating on you. On the ones you had to install before others, you should have put a little spray of paint on them for next time.
My tractor third function will let off pressure the quick connections if I rock the switch both directions with the ignition switch in the on position. You definitely don’t want to get pressured hydraulic fluid injected into your hand. I still try to wear gloves disconnecting the lines.
Heh Gavin. What a pain when you need a bit of a hand & there is restricted space for tools?☹️😩🤯 Maybe try a low profile/stubby hex bit (good quality for use with the torque wrench), it should give you that bit of breathing room to work. You got really good use out of those original teeth, such a difference with the new & old though😊 Take care & cheers🐨🦘🥰
One reason I carry a long piece of cheater pipe in my trailer. And get a high torque cordless impact they have more torque than the corded ones. And use a impacted rated allen
torque each bolt as you go and you will know you haven't missed any.You could also quite easily fabricate a locking mechanism to prevent the drum rotating while you work on it.
You seem to be mechanically inclined. Get a short piece of pipe that you put on the breaker handle. The further away you can to apply the force to break the bolts loose, the better and faster it'll go. Just a piece of advice.
these knives are very good but they don't last many hours I prefer to use hammers they make many more hours and the work stays the same.good work strength
That impact is probably 125 - maybe 200, for that torque specs you need a 750- 900 impact and wouldn't hurt to invest in a good set of knuckles for those hard to reach places
by operation of controls (without) the motor running it will send oil back to tank? The switch has to be on to work coils on values. Put teeth on like you read one line at a time also use a extension on wrench.
Love the maintenance videos. By the way, I couldn’t help but noticing the MTL brush cutter missing its motor. Any update on that attachment? Glad the John Deere 329E is back in action as well.
You are learning. What does the instruction book say about sequence of installation to avoid spacing problems for your torque wrench? Your local dealer service department could probably give you some helpful hints.
I wonder if an air powered impact wrench would've worked better. You could've maybe sprayed all of the bolts with penetrating spray which may have helped. I was looking at the black cover where the works are. I wonder if you could make a heavy duty type of cover to put on that mulcher so when you are mulching stuff and something falls or you need to move something so that you could still use the thumb to grab things even with the mulching head on. It might save you lots of work so you don't have to change to the bucket to move a log of to pull some brush out to mulch it.
I was wondering when someone would come up with the wright answer. Good job Kevin. I have an air impact gun that would ring the dang bolt into or strip out the head . I have had people come to my shop and show me there new impact guns they were electric saying how strong they were and every time I put them to shame when compared to an air gun of good quality.
You need to watch the torque test channel to find out what kind of impact to use. The electric ones are not like they used to be. Also you should have ran through a few of these off-camera so you didn't get frustrated when the impact didn't work you could have set yourself up till look more mechanically inclined. Then you look trying to do it after you got frustrated just a tip. I used to train a lot of people and teach high-low training. I would run through the course myself beforehand so I knew what I was doing. So if I had to jump on the high low and show people nothing like getting embarrassed in front of 30 people if you don't know what you're doing and there's a whole lot more than 30 people probably watching you right now Good luck.
I hate to tell you this, but you need some better “mechanic” skills. First make a wooden wedge to hold the drum. Second clean out the Allen screws PRIOR to trying to installing the tool. Third my guess is that they were “lock tighten” with a blue formula.
I spray them down those1/2 worn might be good for light Brush work you need to use the breaker bar Don't Hit. A Allen head with a Hammer 🔨 your damage it Next why not Replace the worn blade with a new one I was Concerned they weren't Left hand threads and you need to stop 🛑 that Barrel from moving the blades are Gone but there sharp metal to cut 🩹
for me it's a shame the company dont make a little discount if you return the old one teeth for recycle or stuff like that,you to save money make this job by youself and time but need a lot of patience to make,
It's not too bad, you just have to put the teeth on in a way where the tooth you just put on doesn't get in the way of one you are about to put on. I've been super happy with this mulcher.
