History and Characteristics：
The roots of Murayama-Oshima Tsumugi (textured silk pongee) can be traced back to stripe-pattern woven cotton textiles produced in the Genroku Era (1688-1704) of Edo Japan. During the Bunka Era (1804-1818), Murayama Kasuri*2 textiles were established. It is said that originally both stripe and splash patterns came to Japan due to western trade; such being designs found in southern-style cotton textiles. "Stripes" are patterns comprised of threads in two or more colors, with varied striation appearing in both warp and weft. "Splashes" occur irregularly in the weave and appear as blurred areas in the textiles.
Such techniques were cultivated and refined during the Edo Period by both townspeople and farmers.
Concerning the evolution in Murayama manufacturing areas from striped cotton textiles to Murayama Kasuri, along with cotton-weaving technology development, it might be said that a flowering of culture among Edo townspeople also played a part.
However, from the middle of the Meiji Era (1868-1912) onward, it became possible to produce cheaply-priced cotton textiles of a striped design in other manufacturing areas. Moreover, after the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905), a time of change was visited upon Murayama Tsumugi production due to the increasing demand for silks. This development ended the triumphs the textile had enjoyed over the previous 100 years.
From around the middle of the Meiji Era, in Murayama manufacturing areas, the production of coarse woven silks, black silk pongee, and striped meisen*3 silk, etc., was carried out. Based on these silk weaving techniques and advanced production technologies acquired over many years, development of a new type of meisen silk was conducted.
Following this, it became possible to introduce technologies such as itajime dyeing, the production of engraved plates for dyeing, and tie-dyeing techniques, etc., from Isesaki, which was an advanced production area for such technologies in Gunma Prefecture. This development represented a major change in the woven textiles from cotton kasuri to Oshima Tsumugi in the Murayama manufacturing areas.
The net result of these developments was the establishment of the basis of today's Murayama-Oshima Tsumugi textiles.
*2 "Murayama Kasuri": This is the dyeing of indigo silk textiles. It involves the use of an unheated, naturally-fermented indigo solution.
*3 "Meisen Silk": This is a woven flat silk textile in which the warp and weft threads are alternated. In meisen silks, by deliberately staggering the colors of the threads used in the warp and weft, a soft appearance is created that seems to blur color boundaries. This effect is known as kasuri (literally "to blur"). Commencing in the Taisho Era (1912-1926) and continuing into the Showa Era (1926-1989), meisen silks were adopted throughout Japan both for everyday kimono worn by women, and also for stylish garments.
6 окт 2024
