Hi Ellis, just looking at video & thank you for taking the time to make it. I use a metal coat hanger and bend it around the spring & make a handle with it, and that makes it a whole lot easier to remove. I also remove all fluids (oil & fuel) and lift the mower onto the right hand side. Use timber blocks to keep it level, That makes it a whole lot easier to access the bottom of the mower & to remove the transaxle. The right hand wheel will still be on the ground and remove the left wheel that is in the air, that makes it easier for access and to remove the transaxle. Hope this helps & thanks again for the video. Happy Mowing. 👍
Thanks for all the tips on making this job a little easier! I think I did something similar to this on a Craftsman RE2000 I had at some point after this one.
I appreciate your videos and the quality is amazing. Thank you for your efforts, you probably don’t get enough pat on the back for all the work you do. You’ve probably solved at least a dozen of my problems. Thank you again!
Do you have a video that shows how to fix brakes that are not working on this type of mower with rear engine? I have an old Craftsman and after watching your video I was able to change the drive belt. Very difficult but finally got it done. Now brakes don't do much. Thanks
Brakes should be much easier. You should see a caliper bolted on to the right side of the transmission (follow the brake lever rod). 2 bolts and a center nut. The center nut is the brake pad. Tighten it up a little to see if you get brakes back.
I have the same issue... to the point where the shifter handle will bend if I force it too much. I bought my Murray 8/30 from a friend who almost had it sold before me. He said the shifter was stuck after sitting all winter, but he lubed it somehow to drive it around. I don't recall why the other person didn't buy it, but I have it now. I've disassembled 90% of it and degreased most of it. Carb cleaned, new fuel lines, filters, etc. Added a 4" oil drain pipe to avoid the oil change mess around the engine base. I put in 4 new inner tubes. Going to tackle the shifter issue next, and will let you know what I find. Have you fixed yours yet??
@@EllisMowersandmore Can you help me with a Mower It is a Montgomery Ward's Gilson Garden tractor model number Gil - 33048 a. The Indian is a Briton Stratton 14 horsepower model number 320424 type number 0122-01 code 70227. I am restoring it completely for a gentleman. If you know of any parts that you may know where to get or can you lead me in a right direction. Thank you Dean
Hi I have one of these old murray sentinel 100/76 does anyone know how to change the transmission fluid I have the axle off but I dont see any drain plugs or filling plugs
Just finished installing both idler pulleys on a Crafsman (the same exact machine) Had to use a piece of wire and a ratchet strap to remove the mower belt tension spring. Under the seat there is a small gap between the frame and engine and a thin 9/16" wrench will fit being very careful not to move the nut out of position. I think the engineer that designed this mower should be banned for life of ever designing another mower! Good Luck!
I didn't have to find parts for mine. Murray parts are getting hard to find but your best bet is to find the owners manual online and use it to find the part numbers you need and then see if anybody on Amazon or EBay has it available.
My dad also had this same mower.... pretty sure it was my first experience with a mower of any kind as a kid. So when a 8/30 Murray showed up in my local online ad for $195, I had to have it, even though I didn't really need another rider. Got her all cleaned up and running swell. Just have to lube the stiff shifter linkage. It'll be parked with my vintage Cub Cadet 124, and Ingersoll 220 Hydriv. I also have my dad's 'Pennsylvania Exeter' powered reel mower.
Man, looked up videos because I'm fixing to change the drive belt on one of these. After watching this one and a couple of others, I'm gonna have to go on a journey to find some motivation beforehand. RER's are cool in their own way but this will be the first one I've worked on. 🤮
For how little these sell for, it is quite a chore to take on the drive belts. Good if you want to learn though. They're bad about slop in the main pulley from how hard the trans engages over time.
Welded pulley because you didn't want to replace a $.25 keyway that is at any auto parts store. Have fun trying to ever fix anything else on that trans. To everyone else, DONT DO THAT
The keyway wasn't the issue. The pulley had wallowed out. Before I went and spent $50 on a main drive pulley I wanted to experiment since the mower itself is not worth all that much.
@@EllisMowersandmore Unfortunately - It appears you welded the pulley on upside down. That is why the alignment was off to the tensioner pulley. I watched your other videos and you can see the transaxle pulley is attached in this video - upside down. I made this same mistake based on this video and the alignment is off on my Murry by about a 1/2 inch or so to the tensioner pulley. I am going to put it on the other way and that should line everything up.
These mowers are bad about the exhaust valve expanding causing low compression. Taking out and grinding down the valve solves the issue this mower had. Learned that after working on this one.
