I absolutely love your videos I wish I could support you in Patreon but I’m just a kid. I love that they are so family friendly. I’ve learned so much from your amazing videos.
Looking into these cars for me and my son , but the price point is kind of a no go . He already has a raptor , so I was thinking of buying one for myself in the next few months . Love the videos !
I did this same modification myself yesterday with mine which still has the stock steering blocks. In my case, one broke near where the wheelshaft is and I superglued it back together. One issue I had was it couldn't freely slide on the steering shaft. So I decided to take matters into my own hands and flip the steering shaft as shown in this video. Granted I could get aluminum steering blocks or drilled the shaft hole in the block, but this mod makes it so much easier, and not just for ease of suspension travel.
Love the mini z content! You got me interested in mini zs......my first mini z is arriving this Saturday. Someday I hope to come visit lonestar hobbies and race on the track!
I started with the ready to run kit lol now I just bought a brush one and my new noble radio is coming. It’s not cheap if you want to go faster and be competitive. My set up cost about 500.
Your mod converts the Mini-Z front suspension to the layout similar to that Radio Shack on the early version of their XMods cars. Their lower A-Arm is stationary and served as a guide for the pivot/suspension screw that attached to the upper A-Arm. It extended below the suspension with the screw head acting as the stop for the suspension travel. May be why Kyosho elected to reverse their installation.
@Wout Chauvaux size doesn't equate to pricing. Go compare HO, N or Z scale trains and the precision involved with each one. You can drop way more money on 1/8 scale, too. My point is that size doesn’t equate to pricing in every case. Race quality servo for these are $55, easily double this in 1/10. If you get a readyset McLaren Senna edition at the same price point. The level of paint, decals, scale details for the body alone would cost well over $100 in 1/10. Scale speed gets ridiculously fast with these too, 600 kph stock to 2800 and higher fully modified brushless. These are precision made, not bashers. People try to compare basher and toy pricing to hobby grade precision; it just isn't the case. An exploded diagram if the assembly parts will show just how much is going on here. All the way down to pinuon and gear choices, just like larger scales.
Hey mark, so we did this today at lone star for my p1 gtr MM wide mini z and it caused my turning to go from actually doing well to now it has tons of understeer. I turned dual rate on steering up and that’s still the problem. Any advice?
I saw the hobby shop and noticed it's only 30 min from me...looked it up and noticed it's permanently closed 😭 anywhere else to race and drift mini z in DFW??
So, Dunno how come ya just didn't say that the LM MINI's are LeMan race cars... 🤔🤨😕 Had me waiting and waiting to see what they looked like, and then Ahhh, is that all... 😮🙄😔
@@tonythehitman1 Bodies don't cost that much. I can get an e-revo body for $30 from traxxas that just needs paint and the clipless system installed onto it. No way those bodies cost them more than $10-15 to make. Not to mention they sell a brushless, bodyless, wheelless, transmitterless, and receiverless mini z for $200... By the time it's finished you can buy a new senton 3s instead, or build a gen 8 crawler. Associated sells a $55 28th scale. Traxxas sells an 18th scale $110 4wd car with fully independent suspension.
@@KTMcaptain yea I know. I'm in the same boat you are in. I just bought a 1/10 erevo body so I know exactly what you mean lol. But Gl and kyosho pretty much have that on lockdown. Xmods didn't stay around to long. Its all a monopoly
Cool vids iam recent new subscriber and to nitros have revo and tmaxx 3.3 no holes cut in body front windshield yet noticed you haven't cut holes either is it necessary for better cooling or just leave it stock no holes?
Im.new to the MIni-Z platform, more of a Arrma and Vaterra collector from 1/5th scale to 1/16th. What/Where can I get tires, and wheels for these vehicles. Just bought a ZR1, and want aftermarket wheels, and see that the offset to those are way different than the rest "usually +1.5 all around. Any guidance would be helpful. Watching your videos the past 3 days has helped a lot.... Only bad part is that I've bought 6 cars already, and maybe 4 extra bodies. Last but not least, is the Sports 2 cars worth getting over the other new RWD platform? Where are you guys located? Would love to find a group with myself and the kids. Thanks!
Your making me wanna buy a new Mini Z 🙄 I’ve got an original one with the Am 27mhz radio and the old Overland version which is a 2wd off road chassis with an SUV or F150 body you can lock the diff for off-road traction (mine has tiny damped shocks but std is friction shocks) otherwise it’s a basic Mini Z. I’m still waiting for a 4x4 one I’ve found the one I want but it’s always in the wrong color I know you know how that is 😂
Itty bitty screws are a massive PIA. I’ve upgraded a humber of things on my SCX24 CRC Jeep and those little buggers can simply vanish....then later, my wife with perfect vision, will walk thru and see one on the other side of our kitchen from where I was working ...
Also if you don’t want to flip. Throw that c-clip away and but both washers at the bottom that will drop the front .5mm which helps. Then you can drop the rear too if you want to get a new motor pod
Nice to see 1/28 content.. they are a crescent and insanely cool. If you have a chance, take a look into atomic 1/28 kits (tons of fun building it) and mini-z buggy.
Hey! WARNING! This mod can cause the problem with blocking the wheel during cornering by touching the body. I was pretty amazed how suspension started to move freely after I made this mode. But it was the clear for me that there some reason to limit the movement of suspension. After mod sometimes on the high speed cornering car is rapidly spin because outer wheel touches the body. So I fixed this by following manner: I put long screws(8 mm) instead of short ones, which are hold the body plate. Thus you limit the arm way a lot. But there still 2-3 mil play. Then I made fine adjustment by placing 2 shims (included to the kit) on top of wheel hub. So now I have very smooth suspension but with limit to prevent wheel blocking.
Sweet! Nice tip thanks for the tutorial! Just wondering I've recent ordered a mini z, what batteries you recommend to race with? If you have a link also that would be great. Cheers
@@MarkSantaMaria I got my cen suzuki jimny and mini t 2.0 brushless an want to start RU-vid video what do u recommend?there's no video yet on these RC's so that's how I want to start...THANK U STAY SAFE AND THE KIDS ✌
@@memfault go tell someone who cares . This person clearly doesn't know the hobby or can afford it .. that's why the ignorant comment , What you and him do not realize is that these are highly collectable and only go up in value as they age . So yeah 200 is a great price .
@@speedteamhpi I totally disagree. I have feeling that you make feel yourself better, because "you can afford" and disregard (and projects that's a fact) that anybody criticizing it, are those "who can't afford it". The fact is that you don't even know if he (or me) can afford it or not. About buying mini-z being sure investment, it's not a true. There are some limited runs that can be investment put on the shelve, but not every(or even most of them, especially used ones, with scratches, etc), because they are relatively popular and mass produced hardware from years, with bright future (because it's popular, and people buying them, will not be alone). But even many owners and fans of them, criticize them for their prize. I would prefer some open ecosystem/standard. Beside that if I had many friends driving mini-z's I would probably buy at least few of them. But mini-z are big, so need big track. Wife even hates small 3m^2 1:43 track I've reduced it to and kids really love it. When talking about some collectibles from Kyosho, buy discontinued Dnanos, not mini-z's. They are skyrocketing in prices currently. I would like to buy few of them, because already got 1:43 track(from Siku Racing. Cars are very nice die cast metals. But subpar to drive and nightmare for maintenance. But I still like them and playing with them. Recently bought used robitronic lap counting systems[tried to buy new, but even official store doesn't know when they will be back). I also like collecting some stuff. Got hundreds of cartridges for NES and SNES systems including some rare hardware. Got also some vintage Tomy electromechanical games. It would be real investement if I ever would like to sell it. I really could buy mini-z if I would like too. But I hope that 1:43 will be resurrected by many manufacturers in few years, with even much more robust hardware then mini-z(you must upgrade it with metal parts to be reliable). So I'm not a person that hates it or can not afford(maybe not whole shelve of it, like some guys ;-). I even think that 90% of people in EU could afford them, if they would. $200-$500 is not such prohibitive price. Evan people buying some cheaper options, are spending more by buying multiple rc cars or something. People are spending more annually on their iPhones, etc. But even many of them are not happy with Apple practices(not only inital price, but lack of spare parts, etc) I think that you are taking mini-z's too much seriously and emotionally. It's only stupid rc-cars, that are popular, but not anything amazing or special(detailed, but cheap plastic bodies(and most of the mechanics). Because of long history, good availability of spare parts, good quality control(on factory) and popularity there is hype for them. It's simply sure bet for potential buyers that whole thing will not collapse in two years(like with anything new, or entering market). So people know it's overpriced(for what it is), but whole ecosystem(supply chains of parts and new cars, dedicated tracks and tournaments are keeping mini-z alive). Siku Racing cars were also initally sold for $50-80 per car or *20-$30 per few track tiles. Then went Lidl with their Playtive(utilizing some Siku parts, like motors with differentials, batteries. Probably licensed, because both Lidl and Siku are big brands). While cars were a bit subpar(plastic), the whole set(2 cars + big track + lap counting system) sold for $50. Even those who disliked cars from Lidl, driven Siku Racing or Kyosho Dnano on them. When Siku Racing and Kyosho Dnano collapsed whole ecosystem collapsed (replaced by mini-z mostly). I think that many people want good out-of-the-box experience. So if Kyosho want to survive, they must make two lines: - one cheap(dump prices for current offering) - premium line, with mostly metal mechanics. Otherwise somebody will enter the market with better product(out-of-the-box) with initial price-dumping and will eat the cake.
