Mustang Ram Air 

Great tip!

Awesome info! Mine had the flat wounds too. But we wanted to feature the new ones that have been unavailable until now. I will look at the hood scoops for interference, though I did test them before I installed it. Sometimes installing will change positions. I wonder if the cost was a "you might feel a slight pressure" level.

Us too. I failed to mention that it was the first vehicle to be worked on in the new shop!

There was a duplicate of this car I saw in Steamboat Springs Colorado, sold at the dealer across town from this one (in Denver) guy was the original owner.

Glad you enjoyed it. I found it freeing, cause I wanted Ram Air back in the day but trapped myself in the Concours Resto mold.

Not a bad idea!

Thanks Paul!

These were REALLY tight.

Glad to have you here!

More to come!

Yep, used that before too. I think this method works really well.

Hey Gilbert. I have a 71 351C Mustang with C6, 3.50 gears, and my engine guy built a 10:1 compression engine that has run well but the RPM problem is very bothersome for highway driving. I need more gears! Did you find the AOD rather heavy or any issues with it? How much was it? What torque converter did you go with? I would like to lower highway RPM via 3.25 gears perhaps or an AOD or Tremec t-5 manual swap. Money is im short supply lately but I can dream right?

@@jamesmedina2062 Hi! I definitely get how the engine RPM can get to you at highway speeds with a 3.5:1 ratio rear axle gear set. Just try to imagine how it is like with 3.91:111 or 4.11:1 gears, or even lower ratios for balls out drag racing. The AOD swap went well, but I had throughly researched the process,a nd needed parts, pretty deeply before tackling it. At that, I do not have the equipment needed to really do it easily (transmission jack), so I had a local shop do it for/with me. When I say "with me" I asked the shop owner if he wouls let me video record the process for RU-vid, and to work with his tech providing guidance, as they had never done a swap with AOD replacing a C4/FMX/C6 before. The tech was cool with my request, in the end. He confessed to me later that he had his reservations about a customer being there as he was doing the work, but as it turned out he appreciated having someone to talk him through the new steps, and who actually knew what he was doing (I am a forner auto tech, from the 70s and 80s). If it had been for the original C4 tranny needing to be rebuilt (slipping badly in the 1-2 upshift at wide open throttle) I would have more likely installed a Gear Vendor OverDrive unit. But, the C4 was a little light duty with the Street/Strip build the 351w has (a modest 360HP, but it has lots of torque). Hence, the reason for doing an AOD, but with an optional firmer shift (Monster Transmission), and I also purchased a 1900 - 2300 RPM torque convertor with the AOD purchase. I could have gone with a steeper gear ratio in the rear, like 3.0:1, and I know that would have brought the engine RPM at highway speeds down to a nice level. I know this because we have a 1969 Shelby GT500 with factory required 3.0:1 rear axle gears, due to it having a 428 CJ engine with factory A/C. I felt I would lose more low end performance with a taller rear axle ratio, and I liked how the 3.5:1 performed around town. The AOD 4th gear (OD) provides a 0.667:1 output shaft ratio, which effectively turns our 3.5:1 rear axle TractionLok gear ratio into the equivalent of a 2.33:1 rear axle ratio were I to have a non-OD tranny (3.5 * 0.667). That is about as steep as I would have wanted. But, the cool things are that I was able to keep the lower ratio TractionLok rear axle gears for lower speed performance, and our built 351 has the power to overcome the high wind resistance at triple digit speeds. So, I kept the low end performance, while bumping the top end - and have a nice engine RPM at 65 MPH, even at 70 MPH (or higher). That said, were I to do it again I would before likely to swap in a 4R70W AOD, as it is computer controlled for shift speeds, firmness, etc., electronically. Sure, I would have had to buy an aftermarket electronic controller (there are several folks who make those). But it would have been far easier to adjust the tranny pressures, as opposed to having to set the Throttle Valve (TV) Pressure manually, a few times as I kept increasing its base PSI in order to get my 11-2, 2-3, and 3-4 upshifts to occur at higher road speeds than the standard TV PSI level provided. Setting the TV pressure properly is critical to keep from frying the tranny. It is nott hard to do, just tedious, especially by the time was doing it for the 3rd time in my quest fr\or higher speed upshifts to occur. The AOD does weight a little more than the C4, but the tranny jack helped make that easy to handle. I kept the oem auto tranny shifter, and it turns out it works perfectly with the AOD, although the shifter gear indicator is a little goofy with the D, 2, 1 shifter positions. I cover how the shifter behaves in one of several RU-vid videos I did on the entire process. I also have some files that contain some good into, as well as provide the parts list and vendors I used for our project. The files I have are on my Google Drive at the link provided below. It is a lot to read through, but I think in the end you will be glad you read the documents I put together, as well as watching the RU-vid videos I put together. Below is a listing of theRU-vid video web addresses, as well as for my relevant files for the parts and vendors I used, and much more. Have fun! No regrets with us, we love the AOD. Documents on my Google Drive: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1cXXDj9mEs_1ANCFhD5pYBqLre05iseOk?usp=drive_link RU-vid videos: This is a link showing the impact on engine RPM at 60 MPH with the AOD in 3rd/Drive gear, and then in 4th/OverDrive gear. In the AOD, 3rd gear is a 1:1 ratio, just like 3rd gear in a C4. FMX, or C6 automatic transmission. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zfYe--Gsjdk.html Following is a list of relevant RU-vid video links contained in this document’s prior paragraphs, and from RU-vid listings: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jrdKCcPKv_Y.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MZwXbJKdDKo.html The following link is for the Neutral Safety/Backup Light Switch splicing: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zzDmFjFfT-A.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yHWY903N4bs.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XZ7CkcY1vFQ.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vdR-z3KV0UE.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YCBBgd-olQ0.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NcYr68atRjM.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iFNXTGXNNcQ.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2tTwnbcZZkY.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8QncIKQTvNo.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-b4lnPReGWuM.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zfYe--Gsjdk.html Setting up Throttle Valve Pressure from the carburetor cabling, and how the original auto tranny floor shifter behaves with the AOD when shifting manually: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KYIAqqYUKNo.html More below This video shows there is a difference between TV pressures in Neutral vs Park: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6hZJEnGCPvY.html Another Throttle Valve Pressure Adjustment “outside” video is : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fqkfoNBsJWg.html From a Facebook post (NOT MINE, but seems useful) on 1/26/2022: done a 4r70w in my 69 fairlane. Just bought 68 cougar it will get one too. Do your research and you'll know what I'm talking about when I say: J-mod to the valve body, US shift trans controller, IMPORTANT-Provide your builder with: www.jegs.com/.../Lokar-Ford.../1231928/10002/-1 Your life will be easier when hooking up shifter, if your running a rearend gear lower than 3.55, like a 3.70-4.11 etc. U will definitely want to direct your builder to install a 7 tooth speedo spline output shaft. To get speedo to work with 8 tooth u have to use a 23 splined speed cable gear which will last about a week! Be sure to get a 1998-2003 4r70w. 5.0 Explorer preferred has 5 clutch hub, 3.8 v6 4r70w have 4. If using stock gear drive speedo, make sure the trans u bought has the hole for the speedo cable AND the speedo splines on the output shaft. Swapping out the 4r70w tailshaft housing to an AOD allows use of an AOD trans mount and a c-4 driveshaft yoke. If u do the tail shaft swap u will MUST do the tailshaft rear lube mod. Your c4 Driveshaft will need shortened as well. I bought a broken empty 4r70 case which was helpful for mock up being the 4r70w is. HEAVY! Most headers will not clear the shifter linkage side of trans-had to modify drivers side hooker super comp headers. In hindsight I'd used shorty headers. This guy built mine- Darrin Burch bcatransmissions.com. Also there's a series on youtube which was technically helpful. I'd suggest watching/subscribing ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I4-fKGzFPXI.html

Oh but they do. The Aussies have made hay with this engine and were the first to offer a stroked 351C (I think).

I'm not sure you can trim it and have it look decent. I might go with closed cell foam, use some Playdough to know what depth you need and glue that down to the air cleaner with weatherstrip adhesive.

Thank you!

HAHAHAHAHA, gonna use that.

True.

ME TOO!

Welcome!

Right on! Glad you found us!

Awesome!

Ohhhh the waiting...

Definitely doing that.

Glad to hear it!

LOL might be. I think what happened is the Feds wanted EACH example. Meaning the Torino (which also had a Ram Air option in 1972) with the 351 2V and 4V as well as two 429s. Ford just didn't want to play. By then they had chucked the factory support of most of the racing stuff and gone back to the mundane.

I really wish someone would reproduce the correct 4V sticker. My car too is a June build date , actually our dates on the cars are pretty close! My car had a serial number established on June 14th which is also my birthday.

Yes I have done that before, but these are new and REALLY stiff.

In 1978 I traded my 1978 Mazda GLC that my parents had bought me about 6 months earlier for a used 1972 Mustang Mach 1 with the 351-2V Ram Air. It had been repainted in its original Dark Green / Argent colors and had been modified with a Mallory dual point ignition, snubber traction bars and the exhaust terminated just underneath the front seats with mufflers that were attached with coat hangers or bailing wire. I traded even for this Mach 1 and thought it was good deal. Needless to say my parents were not amused and didn’t share my thoughts of a good deal. Immediately, it had to have a complete exhaust redo. The competition clutch had to be replaced with a standard Ford unit( thank God). My left leg is still stronger than my right leg thanks to that clutch and I’m 60 years old now. Why they put a competition clutch, dual point ignition, and left the anemic 2-V carb and heads is baffling to me. Maybe they ran out of money ? My Dad put a new heater core in it ( after the winter was over) and didn’t speak to me for about a month. It was a great looking car with a new paint job but not very reliable. I had forgotten about my Mach 1 until I earn across this video. Good to finally know why the Ram Air was only available on the 351-2V which never made any sense to me.

They did. Early cars had them installed, later cars had them in the trunk.

@@AutoRestoMod also 72 montego gts with the cyclone package

Normally that works, but those NASA hoods are heave and add the extra beef for the ram air and oofda they are a handfull.

Those are wicked tight springs. There was a LOT of grunt applied to get them on.

Send me a picture. I plan on doing an ID video on the Ford small blocks vs. Cleveland. jford@autorestomod.com

It is the crap lights in Studio A Those will work great in a not video situation, they suck for film. We're going to dump them and get the Metalux like in Studio B, where we shot the hood removal (we shoulda got the mMetalux to start with).

@@AutoRestoMod Yup I know how the lights go. Have had issues with commercial lighting too. Lots of cheap lights use a switchmode power supply which makes the light flicker faster than you can see. The better lights use constant current power supplies that basically feed full DC to the lights all the time instead of chopped up dc. usually you can change the shutter speed and eliminate it vs replacing lights.

I was always amazed how fast these sold in 1980 when I was trying to buy one , I ended up buying a 68 cougar for $250 and had to replace all of the wiring in the Engine bay to get it running . Still 42 years later always looking for a blue with silver stripes 71 to 73 Mach 1.

I love it. I've owned it since 1994.

@@AutoRestoMod that’s cool.

Like it!

In 1972 Ford had a striped package available for the coupes and the convertibles that was the same stripe as the Mach 1 without the Mach 1 name. Sadly It kind of took a lot of the jazz from the Mach. Of course the71-73 Mach 1 was available with the 302 as a base engine so…. dot

It looks like a V6 Hipo air cleaner lid is the closest to the original lid stamping.

Maybe.

The bolts go away. It uses the self tappers.

I believe you're right, though they were actually 4V heads with 2V valves Making them the worst of both possible worlds.

@@AutoRestoMod Bob Glidden seemed really happy after he massaged it really nice all the way to the very top of Pro Stock

Sadly yes. Lazarus fell on hard times for a good while. And some of the things we did (like dipping) did a major disservice to it.

@@AutoRestoMod I loved and still love to this day, the ginger interior in Lazarus! The magazine articles helped me fall in love with this car. Did you ever find the interior door pieces you were hunting for it? Good times in the late 90’s early 2000’s…. Took my wife and newborn daughter to a Pony Trail in Seattle in 2001. Fond memories! Thanks, Jeff!

I use the flat and the Philips screwdriver trick too...on springs that are not as hefty as these. I tried that first in fact.

The old springs were not bad. The new springs were tough!

The funny thing is I usually don't have to force them lol.

@@AutoRestoMod that's a good thing. Indoctrination success!

Word.

That depends on the Spring. If your car isn't a Mach 1 with the ram air originally the springs are not heavy enough. The flat-wound springs are required for the Mach 1.

LOL!