hi everyone this is my mxus3kturbo 72v 28.8ah 80a bms/sabvoton100a controller on riddick rd 900. This thing rips make sure to subscribe to not miss any content
my bike is a shitty old barracuda rock, with a UPP 52V battery, and a 1500w 24ah generic Chinese rear hub motor running on 40amps. a very "amazon bought" ebike, but I love it. I stuck some schwalbe Johnny Watts on, 180mm discs, (mechanical disc system cos I'm not mechanically minded enough for hydraulics😂) and I manufactured a 14"x12" plate for the front to deflect debris from the battery and wind off my nuts. I then put a motorcycle windshield on to keep the winter cold off my top half, and the plate keeps it off my legs. it has rear indicators, and a 12v light rig, but no front indicators. it has a wide seat with it's own suspension, of a fashion, and all in all it serves me well. it tops out at about 40mph on the flat and 25mph up a decent hill, but generally runs around 35mph, but as I've reached 2500 miles it's begun to lose a noticeable amount of torque from a dead start. it used to pull to 30mph within a couple of dozen feet, but now it seems to take a while to wind up. does anyone else get this issue? I know parts wear, and I use it every single day, riding up two significant, steep hills of about 16%, but apart from slowing down some, it seems to be very rugged. I have a full susser which I bought with the intention of swapping the current kit over, lock stock and barrel, but I've become slightly obsessed with getting a 72v battery on it and a drive train which pushes it to 50mph. this mxus turbo looks the bollocks, and that whole rig you've got there is gorgeous. a very tidy build is that. do you guys know of any companies who make plastics and fairings for Ebikes? I looked for someone who sold windshields and wind deflecting fairings for electric bikes but I couldn't find anyone. As any ebike in Europe knows, above sorts 20mph in the winter, those cold winds can be brutal, and I reckon there's a market for this type of product, which you can just bolt onto your front forks and handlebars and have almost complete shelter from the wind and rain.
I know it's been a while but I wanted to mention that typically the unit pack power cells aren't very great and can have a bad internal resistance, or cells that quickly degrade (either because they are built poorly or because they are running too close to their limits) - over time, this degradation increases internal resistance, meaning you will get a larger voltage sag pulling the same amperage, giving you less volts and less power
Looks absolutely insane 🤩 what hub did you choose? Im looking to buy a set, but don't know if I should pick 21x3 3T or 16x4 4T? What are you using? Gonna use a 72v bms and 60A controller from sabvoton. Thanks! :)
In the time that has passed between my comment and now, I've built 3000w mountain bike that can do the same with the blip of the throttle. 60 volts, 24Ah. @@pawelhein9121
Cheers mate! Good stuff and yeah it wheelies for fun mate. Never had mtx with 72v but the mxus is deffo quieter and smoother. Mtx is a clone. Mxus is real so I would say mxus.. But the mtx was a solid rim and still going strong now I believe. The clones are just as good
Stellar video, lovely scenery, entertaining commentary. I like your style Ebikekilla. You are a wild human riding a modified MTB with an electric motor capable of motorway speeds adorned with short pants on and no gloves! I assume that camera is attached to a helmet. I hope it is, my 2 wheeled brother. I have developed a deep appreciation for my MXUS 3K Turbo hub motor that I installed on my 29" hard tail MTB 8 months ago when a second NBPower hub motor performed an unscheduled complete cessation of function. I too , had several weeks to wait for the arrival of the motor and my path through the maze of battery power suppliers led me to that 100 amp bms obstacle. I was not able to get a 100 amp bms in a 72 volt battery either. Current system power comes from a 72 volt , 26 ah, 80a bms L-ion battery pack rated 3000-5000 watts. It is the largest battery that will fit on the bike. I use my bike for recreation as well as a vehicle that helps me operate in the forest, mountains, prairies and wetlands to monitor and collect data as an ecologist. I have found that when I go where there are no humans, the bike is a valuable tool when there are no roads. It also goes pretty far when the trails end. Because of the work and play load I dish out, I have gone through 2 hub motors and 4 controllers in 4 years! 2 NBPower controllers, 1 sabvoton 7280, and 1 fardriver ND72260. The MXUS and the Fardriver ND72260 are my current equipment and is the best performing thus far in terms of total distance traveled per battery charge (avg 22 miles), top speed acheived with full gear & rider 175 lb rider+35 lb gear +106 lb bike (63 MPH). The Fardriver and MXUS are simply able to handle the damaging heat that the controller and motor get exposed to from normal use. I operate in the mid and southern US where summer temps can stay above 95 degree F for prolonged periods. I had to design, fabricate, and build a controller box that would keep out the elements and still flow air to cool the controller. fans powered by a separate battery where necessary. All of my hub motors have been augmented with Statorade from Grin Technologies. I personally attest to its capability to lower the operating temperature of an electric hub motor and it is the most valuable performance upgrade that can be purchased for these machines. Thank you again for sharing your video. may all your rides end upright! Peace & Blessings - The 3RTHS3RVNTXX aka CWParks
You had any trouble with the rear hub staying in the dropout mate? Have 2 torque arms on mine now but when I just had 1 it came out of the dropout only in mode 3 also and it has 5 modes, any solutions? Cheers
Might need to ask a welding shop to add some steel plate onto the outside of the dropouts for you to thicken the width of the axle stay that it sits in. If you google "Custom torque arms for my conversion" on google images its the first one with a blue frame to give you an idea
@@kransurfing Paid my ebike guy to fix the hall sensor from just having 1 torque arm, he rebuilt it and put 2 torque arms, had 1 ride and the next time I went to use it the frame where the dropout is completely snapped off due to the torque when setting off and I just gave up on the bike, this was on a Carrera Vengeance frame but the 2018 version (the slimmer design), Im wondering if you know of a frame that can support this power? With summer round the corner really wanting a bike again, spent like over 2k on this one bike including parts and labour costs don't want it to go to waste. Thanks
Nice machine. I have an yt tues ltd with the 3t and Kelly kls7230 Controller. Before i used the 7218s 200a Version with 12s Multistar Lipo and 40ah but Thea we're shit also. Today i ordered 231 Samsung 21700 35a cells for 2 euro each dir a 3x7s 11 p Pack with 33ah so i can use it as a 7s for normal e Bikes, 14s dir the bbshd Kit and mxus and 21 s on mxus If i need the full bläst. In the Moment my Controller ist set to 100a and this Thing ist a besser. At 150 or 180 at 12s it becomes very very super strong and starts Wheelies at 85 kmh . Its absolute crazy
Thanks dude! That’s quality I bet that’s quick. I’ve only got this set to 80a and she still rips… You sound like you know you’re stuff! I am yet to try the Kelly controllers out: I like how U can fine tune the Sabvotons. I can imagine that’s fun. Thanks for watching and stay tuned for the next one ya hurr🤪🤪
I also got my motor directly from MXUS but at some points where the side cap screws are, the paint is gone around the screw. Bit unfortunate. Did you have the same experience?
Год назад
My almost 3 year old has a lot of flaked paint. The similary aged xf15f I have in the front still looks like new and I ride all weather, all seasons, all terrain. Yep... crappy paint jobby on the case but the insides are alright.
