Thank you for the video! Its great seeing more technical information regarding the Supra. The Supra forums appear to be more dedicated to body kits, etc.
When you have to start playing around with the factory placement of sensors and are only left with mm gaps between the tyre and the wheel arch, you’ve chosen the wrong wheel/tyre/suspension setup. You shouldn’t have to do all that to get the right stance if you choose the right spec setup.
Looks great one of my favorite set ups I’ve seen on a Supra…I love the TE37 look but seems like every single Supra owner goes with the TE37s getting tired of it. Nice!
If that tie breaks over time and the box catches on the tire? You are going to have a while mess to deal with. Especially if it catches and the zip tie is still strapped. Plus, it's going to rub when the wheel bounces. 😅
Bronze looks great. So glad you didn't go w/black wheels (or out of place white wheels). Black wheels have no personality; much like plain black dress socks. A gunmetal or dark silver would look great too. With the amount of driving that you do, how long do you expect these tires will last?
So glad I went with te37 ultra m spec. I lose 5 lbs per wheel, still running a wider but not stupid wide 305 I the rear and 295 in the front. No rub, no "mod" needed. 5lbs in unsprung weight is a massive loss per wheel. I would never spend money to add weight to my wheels.
@@sffautoworks3116 the wheels do look amazing! How's the traction? Noticeably different? I feel like I can notice a small difference on the 305s. I was considering getting the bc forged mle81s. Their quality looks amazing in person so I hope you really enjoy those!
So the rear rub but the front do not is what I am to understand? Are they rubbing on the inside of the fender well, or on the fender itself? Is the car lowered? What do they look like from the rear? Ie; how flush to the fenders are they?
The car is lowered and the front does not rub. The rear rubbed 4 times on me in the past year but that was driving into steep entryways and I hit a large hole in the road one time. The rubbing in the rear is on the inside fender liner and when I pulled the wheel and checked recently I cannot see any rub marks anywhere. Tires look massive from the rear on such a small car. Tire is almost flush with fender. Sticks out about 2mm which is hardly noticeably. One thing to note is that the offset of the wheel is for these specific tires. If you run different tires then you might have to change offset of wheel to clear fender and that info is from BC Forged.
@@sffautoworks3116 Thank you very much for taking the time to reply! One follow-up question…. With 2mm of “poke” on the rear, what prevents the tire from making contact with the fender if, for example, you hit a speed bump, or go into hard cornering? What is stopping the tire from contacting the fender? How much is it lowered, and on what springs, etc? -break- I’m asking because I have been negotiating a wheel build with a company and we have been going on, and on, and on about the offset specs. At $4k PER WHEEL, you can imagine that I want to get it right the first time. I like the idea of running the 315’s in the back, but I have heard that even 305’s are rubbing on the track.
@@RoadRage55 As the suspension compresses it swings inward which will make the rear tire clear the fender. I’m running 325’s on the rear which is great for street but I’m sure they are going to rub under extreme track use. I’m running H&R springs with 1” drop in front with .75” rear drop.
Front 19x9.5 positive 22 offset Michelin 4S tire. 275/30/19. Rear 19x11 positive 38 offset Michelin 4s tire. 325/30/19. The offset of wheels is for these specific tires. If different tires are used offset may have to be changed for clearance. Hope this info helps you out.