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04:44 Henry Poole 08:15 (History of Sexton, Morgan, Nutters, etc) 09:50 Edward Sexton 15:10 Chittleborough & Morgan 19:24 Michael Browne 22:50 Davide Taub (Gieves & Hawkes) 26:23 Thom Sweeney
Sad news, Gieves and Hawkes have been caught up in the ongoing crashing Chinese economy (Chinese owners via investment houses) and may, if a buyer can't be found, go into administration ☹️
I agree. Brimming with friendly, inclusive enthusiasm. This is the way to share your passions, inspire curiosity, invite others to join you on your journey. Bravo!
Because of Hugo i decided to have my first bespoke suit, and when i found a tailor, turned out that he also knows Hugo and watching Sartorial Talks. So, we are waiting bespoke suit with wool 120s, full canvas, charcoal grey! Hugo unites people :)
you probably dont care at all but does anybody know of a way to get back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly lost my account password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me
@Bruno Nicolas thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and im in the hacking process now. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I used to divide the Savile Row Houses into 4 different categories, if you are going on a horse ride, you pick Huntsman or Richard Anderson because of their equestrian background; if you are going on a military parade, you pick Dege or Gieves for their military heritage; if you are going to the ballroom, the freedom of movement from the Anderson & Sheppard drape cut will provide the maximum elegance, and for you Mr Jacomet, I guess you like to make a s̶t̶a̶t̶e̶m̶e̶n̶t̶ scene, by English standard of cause, in your Armors from the Nutters. the blazer looks great by the way
The fact that English is not your native language actually is very cool, because it makes your videos to be more easily understood for those who do not speak English natively as well :)
Ha ! Thank you Maxim, that's encouraging ! (by the way my grand-father, who was a cobbler, mas names Maxime and it's my third given name...). Yours, Hugo
Huntsman was my first bespoke suit before I moved on to Neapolitan, however, I'd like to go full circle and try Michael Brown one day. I've seen his amazing work on other blogs and sites and really like his "Matrix" influence. I want to be like Neo :-)
10:30 Started to work with...Terminator?! Well, I guess if you can bespoke dress a Terminator, you well deserve being called a legend 💪🙏 Jokes aside, fantastic video as always, Hugo. And very beautiful loation! 😍
My 6 Favorite Savile Row Tailors 1) Henry Poole 2) Edward Sexton 3) Joe Morgan (Chittleborough & Morgan) 4) Michael Browne 5) Davide Taub (Gieves & Hawkes) 6) Thom Sweeney
Great picks, Hugo! Would have bet half of my tie collection, that you picked at least one tailor of the sexton pedigree. ;) If I could choose one bespoke piece to be made for me on savile row, it would certainly be an overcoat by Mr Morgan, preferably double-breasted. His garments are beyond dashing! Greetings from Germany!
I'm always look forward to Sartorial Talks; I'm a closet (ahem no pun intended) and avid watcher of ST. I can't, yet, see a time when my wallet will be large or accommodating enough to be fitted for a bespoke suit, but I really enjoy the idea of wearing the best clothes I can afford. Your channel is never snooty of dismissive - it's a pleasure to watch. Love your DB jacket btw Tony
Many thanks Tony for your kind words, and remember all this is mainly for inspiration. The size of one's wallet has frankly little to do with building one's own style. Cheers my friend, Hugo
Hugo; I know you say ; ones wallet should not determine one's style but I keep thinking bespoke is what I want one day ; I had a made to measure with Canali ; nice but not a home run ; I not no suits at the time
Where can I join in this movement of women wearing tailored clothes? How it works? I have to show up on social media wearing in certain way or it is what it is: wearing and meeting with people? In Poland we have big movement of ladies in dresses, sometimes modest, sometimes retro, sometimes parisian chic. They have in many cases partners involved in classic male tailoring movement. But in my relationship I am the one involved in classic wear linked often with masculinity. I'm not so sure there is my place. If only I would find girls like me - it would be great!
Hi MP, You might have noticed many women in Hollywood are now wearing suits (this will likely drive the general population of women to try the same). Also, there is a trend of men's suit makers now making for women, e.g., Suitsupply and others. So...women wearing suits is alive and well--and growing at the moment. Cheers! ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thanks! In Poland we have women suit now and then, but I think it was always like that. I can sew one for me and I will do it to find out if other girls will follow me. Lead by example - it is the only way. Like Seth Godin would say: "people like us do things like this".
Dear Hugo, I love your blazer! Please, if possible, do a video with sonja about her style. My wife and myself love her clothes and would like to know more about it. Kind regards Thomas
As a woman I love Sonja’s tailored clothes also love the shoes she wears. I have a large foot a size 12 US. I have been looking for a pair of ladies spectator shoes. Hugo you and Sonja do a wonderful job with sharing your knowledge about clothing and enjoy watching your videos
Everyday's a schoolday with Monsieur Jacomet. Such a pleasure to see the love and dedication he devotes to the subject and it is infectious. I enjoy all his programmes very much. Thank you, sir. And Sonia always looks fantastic!
Hugo can you recommend a bespoke Tailor in NYC that creates mens suits that are in keeping with the style of Michael Brown in London? I enjoy the look and style of his suits. Thank you! I am not sure if Hugo responds to random questions so if someone would like to make a recommendation please feel free. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks...
Where can we go to suggest subjects for this series? I would very much appreciate a show on the great mills of the world and the fabrics, new and old they are known for. You mention Zenga in passing, but I'd really like to know the difference in mills by Region. It will help us evaluate tailors that are more local to those of us who don't travel extensively. Next a show on American tailors and shoe makers. Anyone doing anything interesting in the US that can compare to Europe? Thank you
Good Evening Hugo...I'm new to your channel....I'm from London but live here in Atlanta GA!!!!....upon my return visit to London. I will definitely check out those tailors on Saville Row...I love all of em...keep up the good work...its about time we Men get back into Custom tailoring!!!!
Thank you Stephen. You probably know my wife is from GA and we have all the family in Buckhead, Sandy Spring, Cumming and in the mountains of north GA. Cheers, Hugo
SAVILE ROW BEST BESPOKE TAILORS MY LIST. 1. HENRY POOLE 2. RICHARD ANDERSON 3. HENRY HUNTSMAN 4. EDE & RAWENSCORT 5. DAVIES & SON 6. DEGE & SKINNER 7. KILGOUR 8. STEVEN HITCHCOCK 9. ANDERSON & SHEPPARD 10.NORTHON & SON MY BEST BESPOKE SHOES LIST 1. G.J. CLEWERLY 2. JOHN LOOB
Hugely entertaining and informative video , I am and have been for many decades , absolutely fascinated by the art of tailoring, Hugo obviously is not only fascinated but also extremely well informed and has a huge knowledge of the subject . I can no longer afford bespoke but i have several suits made for me in the sixties and seventies all of which are still in excellent condition and , remarkably still fit me , spurred on by Hugo I am of a mind to have one last bespoke garment made , I shall scrape the cash together and maybe visit one of the tailors he endorses.
I did lift weights, but a decade ago (today I prefer to lift glasses of Bourgogne wines :-)). These Cifonelli shoulders are indeed very flattering for the deltoids. Cheers, Hugo
Brilliant run down thank you Hugo. Watching you, browsing Instagram, enriching knowledge about this subject with a good coffee... perfect lazy afternoon!
You're king Nikki. By the way I saw you asked about an episode on waistcoats. It's here : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qQ4QzMy-4Ck.html Cheers, Hugo
Couldn't agree with more. A jacket proper length I down to the bottom of the fly in other words covers the top third of the trousers. Anything shorter is ludicrous!
Love the video, thanks Hugo for the inspiration and information! Edward Sexton is the dream tailor for my wedding suit someday. Such a pity (british) bespoke suits are so expensive. ;-)
Don't hesitate to drop us a note before (hugo@parisiangentleman.fr) so that we can open a few doors for you if needed. Thank you for your kind words of encouragement. Hugo
That Burnt Orange pocketsquare!!!!! I'm on the hunt for one, and no one will know about my secret sartorial weapon.... Just kidding, I'd shout about SARTORIAL TALKS from the rooftops, if gentlemanly conduct allowed for it.
Might be interesting to do a world view of tailors. Sure British French Italian tailor's are the pinnacle but what are others doing .. German..south American.. Scandinavian country's.. Japan.. Hong Kong i had a few clothes made for me in Hong Kong fabulous fit durable materials. Shipped them home never saw them again. Now to compare to the well established houses may not be fair but I'm sure there are great tailors in most areas. Thank you for the videos you have opened my eyes to the true value of quality clothing . Happy new Year
Dear Scott, we've been visiting tailors around the world, and in the now famous "tailors dinner" we organised in December in Rome, 14 countries were represented. We wrote many articles on tailors outside the famous trilogy England/Italy/France on our blog Parisian Gentleman (which will soon be relaunched in a new and redesigned version). Cheers my friend, Hugo
women would be better off wearing tailored clothing in general because most women's clothing has useless pockets and horrific zippers, not to mention terrible stitching. even off-the-rack fast fashion can be altered by a seamstress to fit better and have functional pockets at the very least.
If there is one thing that anyone should take to heart from your videos, it is your relentless dedication! Choosing one thing and learning all you can, you stay up until 2am and wake up at 6am because you can’t get enough you love it so much. Burning the midnight oil as some call it. Some may think it’s toil but to you it’s where your heart is.
Dear Hugo, could you ask Sonya if she’s willing to talk about sartorial style for women? Great brands, where to go, her experience and preferences. I can’t be the only woman watching :D I’m a student so price range is also a factor that i’m interested in. Currently looking for a high quality navy wool coat. Love your talks!
You're far from being the only woman watching believe me. We are preparing a project for women. But you can start taking a look at our friends at Walker Slater here : www.walkerslater.com/ladieswear Cheers, Hugo
Very cool to see you highlight some of your preferred tailors. One day I will be able to afford an Edward Sexton, Joe Morgan (probably my favorite style), or Michael Brown suit...I feel their suits provide a good classic English style with just enough flair. On the subject of countries you can look at, perhaps it may be worth thinking about "The Spanish Gentleman". Having a Camiseria Burgos shirt (and another on the way), and the privilege to meet Ramon Cuberta, there may be something there. They seem to take be somewhere between the English and the Italian (at least to my eye). Regardless, I know anything you decide to write next will be worth reading.
Mr. Jacomet, I really appreciate this garment with the mix of colours. Is it a suit or a blazer? (because of the metal button). Beautiful and thank you again
Excellent question Sahnoun. It was actually a bespoke suit by Cifonelli (I commissioned this one in 2008!!). Then I made the mistake not to make two pairs of trousers. So my trousers lasted "only" ten years and as I adored this jacket, I transformed it into a blazer by changing the buttons in 2019. Cheers my friend, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you and sorry for asking the question twice, it’s the caprice of technology. Without being too prying, I would like to know the color of the trousers on this video. I would have worn blue identical to that of the tie. This could have been a sartorial subject: what color trousers H. J. wears on this video? Cheers PS: I go back to your video "Ma garde-robe (partie 1) and fine that you choose a white trousers in the photo.
If I may suggest a topic for a future Sartorial talks video: Ties, and more specifically their construction, and even how they are described. For example googling seven fold ties, you will find several different constructions are given that description. Some are constructed so there are seven folds or creases, others so there seven layers of fabric. Some are tipped, some lined, some are folded so the inner layers come to the middle of the tie, others so the inner layers go all the way to the opposite side, and on and on. All of this of course makes them behave differently. How they drape, how they tie, some giving fairly large knots with a four in hand, others almost begging for more elaborate knots. Some background and history would also appeal to this nerd, and hopefully others.
Vous auriez pu faire un effort pour le nœud de cravate Mister JACOMET, c'est dommage de porter de si belles pièces et de les dévaloriser par un noeud fait ainsi ! 😔
Hey Hugo, I know he is not British BUT what do you think of Tom Ford? I understand he has a much less storied background as all the others you have mentioned, but he is very influenced by the tradition and elegance of Savile Row even though his suits are made by Ermenegildo Zegna. Would love to hear your take on it. Cheers!
Nice review as always. I think it would be difficult to go wrong with any of the top houses on Savile Row or Mayfair in general. I prefer the look of Huntsman and chose them for my first bespoke garments. I hope I will be able to travel to London for delivery in a few months.
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hugo just out of curiosity how did Huntsman not make the list? I think a lot of people would place Huntsman in the top 6 on the row… thoughts Hugo?
@@jasonarday4014 Dear Jason, I used to be a Huntsman fan (with iconic cutters like Colin Hammick and fantastic alumni like Richard Anderson or Pat Morgan) but more recently I believe the company lost its way (and part of its soul) with Roubi L'Roubi as an "artistic director" (I have nothing against him but he was a women's gowns designer, not a tailor). And when the fantastic black gentleman who was for me the face of Huntsman (at the front desk) was fired, I was done. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Dear Hugo, I hope you are well my friend. Thank you so much for your reply. This is really interesting. I have always been a Huntsman fan and did not have the privilege of meeting the tailors you have listed, but there are some very exceptional ones there now. On another note, I just want to say I think you and Sonya are exceptional and your content is brilliant. As someone that is obsessed with tailoring, listening to both you and Sonya is always an absolute education. Keep up the amazing work, sharp lines and fantastic lapels :) 👌🏾 Jason
Very interesting tour my dear Hugo with the British tailors, plus i loved your outstanding outfit , the double breasted blazer makes you look slimmer )))) or maybe you lost weight)))), love to you and dear Sonya from Cairo.
Cher Monsieur Giacomet, ce blazer blue foncé vous flatte vraiment. Vous êtes une vraie source d’inspiration et vous montrez en pratique qu’il ne s’agit pas de mode, ni tendences mais de classe intemporelle. Merci beaucoup! Cordialement, Hendrik (Anvers)
Hello Hugo. I love your channel. Very informative and you display a obvious passion for gentlemen style. Every well dressing man should watch these videos. Intelligent and comprehensive. Well done.
This was just a brilliant video to watch. Also, without the longish hair, Mr. Jacomet looks like a billionaire with that suit and tie and shirt and the discreet jewellery.
SARTORIAL TALKS I visited Michael Browne’s website and Instagram page and was really intrigued by his offerings. I’ll likely stop by his atelier and commission a piece when I am in London. Thanks for the recommendation, Hugo!
A lot of the row comes here! Gievez & Hawkes. Harry Poole and Anderson & Shepherd The money you save by not making that flight you can use as a deposit on that suit!
Dear Hugo, thank you for the video, great as usual. Since you are talking about the Row, why don't you make a video explaining the concept of "soft tailoring", which is very vague in a lot of people's minds?
Dear Lupin, expelling soft tailoring (or more precisely the "Drape Cut") would require a full Sartorial Talks episode. But here is a resource on our blog which may be a good introduction to the subject : parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/the-scholte-drape-cut-you-like-it-or-you-dont/ Cheers, Hugo
This lapel pin is a detail of a Toulouse-Lautrec painting, painted by hand on enamel by a Russian artist. We did 3 episodes on accessories on our Patreon page here (but you'll have to subscribe) : www.patreon.com/sartorialtalks Cheers, Hugo
Mr Hugo, what a fantastic video, you are such an inspiration for a young man developing his style, and great jacket by the way, fits you very well and surely boost you confidence, like you say, it must feel like an armour!
Would be interesting to see a vid on different cloth, explaining differences between them e.g. super 120,150's etc and where they are made and how that affects the cost as well.
Good company, decent products but not crafted in England (I believe they own a factory in China). So it's not exactly the same league. Hence the prices. Cheers, Hugo
Mr. Jacomet, surely you can do "The British Gentleman" as your books contain many aspects of lifestyle, style, shoes, behaviour, history and accessories. Savile Row by Mr. James Sherwood, definitely a masterpiece, covers the tailoring aspect only. You can also cover a unique aspect of nightwear and dressing gowns in British men's style as well. Please do not deprive us of your work. You will not be competing with other books but you will be bring your flavour to the subject. I possess two of your books and on the waiting list for the third. I hope to see a fourth cover that you just mentioned. Wishing you and your family the very best.
You are very kind with me Taimur. I don't want to deprive anybody from our work (I say "our" because Sonya and my team are behind every project) but we given the time and the money required to publish books in 2020 we have to make choices. All my best ! Hugo
Bless you Mr. Jacomet. I trust your judgment, this is your field and we are all learning so much from you and Soya. Wish you great success in every project and would love to keep learning from you and your team.