Super short video to illustrate how the tiniest of details can make the biggest differences to your build. Here we cover the Wheelskin wheel cover and updated data plates.
390 HP is that dyno proven or calculations or wishful thinking? And you have a slight lean to the drivers side in the front by about 3/4 of an inch. Other than that, it’s looking sweet! Nice job, and I agree on what you did with the Vega wheel, looks good, I’m sure it feels even better.
Hi Ed! Thank you! So, the engine is Dyno’d at 394 at the crank, not to the wheels. I know, I know. But the way I drive, I’ll probably not use 2/3s of the HP it makes. Not that I’m a grandpa, I’m just a chill driver. Great catch on the lean. Those photos inside the opening garage were all taken before I replaced the A arm bushings, ball joints, sway bar bushings and links, and rear strut rods. Springs could still be a but soft on one side but going to ride it out for a while and see. I’ll change springs if I have to, but a but worried about ride height when I do. I don’t want to mess it up. Thanks again!
You can try adding body mount shims, the catch is you need to do all 4 on the drivers side. They all lean toward the drivers side, steering column, brake booster, battery, and the driver. The joke is “get a fat wife girlfriend” to balance her out! And take your HP number and subtract 20% for a good guesstimate for rear wheel power. If you have at least 270 out the rear, it’s more than enough to have fun. Keep the rubber side down and enjoy!
One more thing on chassis ride height vs. body height. The chassis with the stock tires should be 8 inches exactly right at the base rear of the frame in front of the rear wheels, if the chassis is the same, on both sides. you have a body mount issue. But that is not an easy job.
