these r refrigeration compressors which need lubrication oil filling and the same is circulated and some comes out with gas but goes back with return gas in closed refrigeration systm.Running it for air and that too either without oil or spraying oil on plant roots both wont be acceptable.U can siply use car inflating compressor which is oil free.Any way it will not run contineously.
I would try to get the check valve done as soon as you can as it seems you dont have an unloader btween the compressors and the tank. Although you are probably using HST/HBP compressors, the internal reed valves can and will eventually fail if you dont unload the line each time (dont ask me how i know this lol). The other problems that you`ll run into are the type of oil to use, most folks use normal compressor oil which isnt a good idea. I`d recommend using Shell Tellus 68 or an equivalent, its a mineral based. non foaming hydraulic oil. To maximise the life of the compressor dont allow the cil to exceed 100C or exceed a 50% duty cycle. Oil consumption is the tricky one because theres no oil sightglass in these compressors. You`d have to be brave to fit one even if you knew where to put it. I fitted an hours run counter and tracked the oil consumption over a 6 month period to get an idea. It was prretty tedious but showed me i was safe with 10ml for every 40 hours of running time. I just replace the oil in the compressors annually and reset the hours run counter to zero. if memory serves my compressors take about 550ml each. Crankcase vent breathers/ filters are ideal for the intakes, i went for shiny chrome with red.pleated filters, just push them onto the pipe and tighten the included hose clamp. They should be easy to find, they look similar to this www.amazon.co.uk/BQLZR-Intake-Crankcase-Breather-Filter/dp/B00RUQNYIM
Atomizer! hahaha you need to email me lol. Yes, you are right the reed valves won't hold the pressure but, that white check valve is rated 150 psi and it's holding very well at the moment. The valve I was going to go with is this www.amazon.com/New-tank-Check-valve-compressor/dp/B003H7ITEW?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3 Do you think I can plumb the side port as a inlet line, which is typically used for the over pressure bleed valve to trip the pressure switch and shut it down? Also, I was thinking about running 2 individual check valves on the outlets of the compressors just as redundancy. Also, IF one decides to fail prematurely then I can disconnect without having the unit leak. Initially, I was considering to run the compressors in series but, I'm not trying to super heat the air or achieve a higher peak pressure so, I just set it up as a parallel configuration. Nothing so far is static or in it's "Final Configuration"... let me know what suggestions you got for me. I also, was considering to get another one of those compressors from supplyhouse.com. that thing is a monster! and it really fills up quickly! Running 2 in a parallel set up would cut my fill time down to 1 minute lol. Cheers!
@@aeromah1062 The side port is the one to use, it has a check valve (plastic plug and a spring) and a port to connect tubing to the unloader which is usually built into the pressure switch. The pressure in the lines between the compressor heads and the pvc check valve will be held at 90psi when the compressors shut down, it really should be fully unloaded (0psi) to protect the reed valves.I dont know why you`d need to run the compressors in series, they are capable of 850psi so be sure your pressure relief valve (pop off valve) is in good shape and routinely check it operates correctly. I installed 2 on mine for the extra peace of mind. When you start running more than 2 compressors you have to install a dedicated circuit to handle the combined inrush current which can be very high or use sequential starting so each compressor fires up in turn, not all of them at once.
Not quite sure what you are asking.... meaning... if you are referring to the freon aspect of it then... My answer is no... if you are referring to the lubrication of the cylinder/piston portion... then my answer would be ...technically all compressors do... Any of the compressors which don't utilize rings around the piston and utilize reed valves are bound to have blow by.... but, having a separator/catch can/filter will catch most if not all depending on the capacity of the holding tank itself as well. Here is an example of what I mean. If you have a 1 gal tank.... its more likely that residues or contaminant will have a higher probability of getting into the outlet line vs a 25 gal tank. As the feed portion/inlet feed that fills the tanks and pass through a check valve. usually feed in a downward fashion. The outlet line is completely drawing from a different location/port. Taking the size into account... the larger the tank the higher off the bottom where most of the contaminant will accumulate. I hope that helps give you a visual of what I mean. As for my set up personally....having a large tank, and a catch can filter and distance from the compressor. I don't think even if the oil were to enter my tank it would be able to reach my root chamber.... My feed line is approximately 35'-45' away from the solenoid. I will keep an eye out for it in the nutes when I change our the res. So, far to date I would have to say nothing as shown... I'll keep my fingers crossed though lol ;) Cheers!
Honestly, I don't keep as good of track of it as I should. There are things you can do more so on a budget... meaning using craigslist for like old refrigerators.... I picked one up for about $50 grabbed the compressor out of it and started with that... also, had one of those old water coolers laying around and used the compressor out of that as well... Originally, it probably cost me less than $100 to assemble the compressor... the fittings is something you can't get around... about $2.50 each... catch can filter was $12, if you shop at harbor freight they have coupons for 20% off almost every friday.... I spend more on things like the extension cord... I think it was a 50' ft one because I know I will use it in many projects that I do. Again, you can do this on a budget if needed. As for my compressor that is super old and it would still run had I re-did the plumbing... but, I didn't want a loud compressor and I've been looking at silent compressors for probably 6 years or so lol. This project just gave me the excuse to make one. Most of my stuff I've been sitting on for years collecting dust and I'm just putting it to good use now. to give you a ball park on what I probably spent ... I would say $500 or less minus the new compressors I picked up. Hope that helps you out! Cheers!
@@aeromah1062 If you have the make and model of the compressor, look at the spec sheet for the displacement, its usually given in cc`s or cubic inches. Multiply the displacemt by 2900 and convert the result to cubic feet. This is the theoretical output (in cfm) of the compressor, typically the real world output will be around 25% less.
