My Ferrari is still causing me problems... Buy or Sell a Watch: prideandpinion.com Instagram: nicoleonard... Twitter: nicoleonardvdh?la... Reddit: / prideandpinionhimf
Nico, I'm thinking theres a parasitic voltage drain happening with the car, something is sapping the power at times and setting off all the various (apparent) errors and by that I mean, even though it's saying error this and error that (start stop for instance is a classic - if there is a voltage drop the car will disable that system in case the battery doesn't have enough to crank the starter motor again..) So, you see what I mean...it's not the actual start/stop system that is at fault, it's just lighting up... and that goes for the other error messages too, all 'phantom' errors that are not actually anything wrong with the car. I am going to suggest this mate - check the connections on every one of the parking sensors front (there's 4) and rear (not sure how many on yours) and the main module (Node ECU). If it is possible to unplug and re-seat each one, do it - it could be something as simple as a dodgy connection, not a failed sensor....See if that improves. Did your bumpers have to come off during any of the mods, was anything disturbed possibly? I don't know..I'm just brainstorming, but either way, I honestly believe the problem lies within the parking sensor system as that's the first error you are seeing. If just one sensor has failed or is not connected properly it will be draining power and the car will report an error causing the 'christmas tree' lights to appear on the dash as each module responds to the apparent voltage drop and the car goes into self preservation mode. It's unbelievable to think 'just a parking sensor' can set off the 'Manettino Failure' dash errors in the car, but I've even heard of 'Manettino Failure' being thrown from a faulty rear number plate bulb! and less obviously a dud TPMS sensor...all stupid little stuff which flies under the radar when scanned for codes - ie - you see a fault message but doesn't always pin point the exact component at fault. I'm almost certain I'm right Nico.
I had similar issue but it was due to the tension regulator from my alternator that was not working and not due to parasitic voltage drain but the symptomes are very alike
I had a brand new GTS and battery failed after 6 months, I have had a Lusso V12 and F12 and same problems, the problem is the battery sits above a huge exhaust manifold, which cooks and kills batteries, expect to change the battery at least every 2 years….thats the first thing I am sure Ferrari did this, make sure there is lots of heat isolation around the battery. The crank to start the V12 is huge and only a battery with 90% condition will do this, so any drain will leave you stranded, does look like your not getting enough amps during drive too, and they can get heat soak in the cables from alternator and start motor restricting current, (my F12 had this and they upgraded the cable), the biggest thing though maybe your Vodafone tracker, especially if your car is out of signal to a Vodafone reception, Vodafone send a signal down to the car, to upload data which causes a drain on the battery and can be 5.0 amp/hr which is more than the battery conditioners, and I have had this fail my Pista too. Ask Vodafone to switch off the tracker for a month and see if that fixes it….could be a result of all, because once a battery is drained it’s likely broken….if Vodafone think the car is been stolen, because you have driven out of the garage without the correct ping to their system, they can drain the battery by allowing and an earth to kill the car. This is a good thing if the car is being stolen but bad if you just trying to drive the car….could be a combo of all, the V8’s don’t tend to have a problem as the battery is under the footwell and away from heat soak, the V12’s are nightmares for killing batteries, I sold mine and bought a 992 turbos S, it just works….miss my GTS but I needed daily that didn’t stress me, been there brother…feel your pain….PS the battery conditioners can kill the batteries too, so don’t think leaving that on once the battery is fully charged is a good thing, it’s like leaving your finger held down on the kettle once it’s boiled….switch that off once charged….someone needs to design a kit to put the battery on the boot of Ferrari V12’s…..
Crazy right? My ff had constant battery issues, faults then new GTC lusso the dealer gave me too with 100 miles on the car Ferrari is just the worst with battery/ voltage issues I like you went German and couldn’t be happier even tho the v12 uncorked is missed , not having to worry and having nicer interior is relaxing
Ahh had none of these issues with my Dacia Sandero mate😂....how many bloody cars you got? Also you have great knowledge on ferrari problems, they must have given you hell for you to learn all that. I ve never had the guts to go for such cars as they scare me...a merce63 is as deep as I got.
I did battle with the electrics in a 360 for years. Actually started in a similar way, upgraded to a tubi exhaust and removed the cats. After that it always had electrical gremlins, twenty years, never really got to the bottom of it. My issues weren’t so bad, it would drop into limp home mode but a restart would normally fix it. Best advice would be to return everything to stock and go from there, if you haven’t already. Italian electronics………
Dealt with one myself as a tech. Reverted to stock, reset the modules, re-taught the transmission and TC modules and it fixed it. Installed a muffler for the guy just because he wanted a deeper exhaust note but left the cats alone and the car never had an issue again.
Hi Nico, I had the same problem, you need to replace the battery and alternator at the same time, the car uses a Can bus system that is very very sensitive to voltage, you notice the problem in traffic because with lower revs the alternator set up is under more pressure to keep the voltage regulated correctly
Damn should have purchased a posh Porsche Niko 😂 And the after market wiring done to the Ferrari can always be a pain in the but. The kinks of tech always amaze me.
Hello Nico, first of all thank you very much for your very entertaining watch videos! I had a similar problem with my GTC4Lusso. At first there was only a tyre sensor message. But the tyre was full. I ignored this and drove on. At some point, a veritable Christmas tree of messages arrived. I switched the Motir off and on again and only the engine indicator light stayed on. It drove normally again. Ferrari couldn't find a fault at first. As I also found it unpleasant to drive around with a potential source of error, I continued to search. Finally they found a fault with the wheel sensor / control unit of the same. Since then it has been quiet. As the error only occurs when you are driving slowly and at a standstill, I suspect that it is related to the parking sensor, as this is the only time it is activated. And when the system then tries to synchronise with the other systems, at some point it starts to skid and throws the mass messages. I would almost bet that it's just the parking sensor or the associated control unit. Good luck and don't buy another car - you won't get the sound of our V12 anywhere else!
As it only happens at low speed or in traffic, it might be the battery is not being charged correctly by the alternator. At cruising speed it's not an issue as the alternator is producing more power than needed.
Nico, it was great to see you at the new DDE HQ if only for a few minutes. Hopefully there is more content coming with you and Damon at the DDE HQ. Call Mike Essa at DDE and ask him about your Ferrari problems, he will probably tell you to get a Porsche.
I have notice when u start the car,u didnt let the car electrical system run through before turning on the car which u should have done. just press the start button first to wake up the car then wait for the electrical system to turn on which u can hear if the cabin is quiet, then wait for about 30sec then u can repress the button to start the car. I previously owned 3 812s and never had a problem like yours unless i leave the car uncharged and the battary drains. Usually everything works right after i charge my battery and clear all the faults code. Its very important to have the electricity to run through to make sure everything wakes up and functions properly before u turn on the car. again im not so sure about ur problem but its just one tiny thing i noticed. hope it helps and love ur video!
I know nothing! BUT Matt Armstrong and I had very similar issues with our Audi's. It ended up being a loose ground in his case, and I needed a whole new battery cable. Hope this helps! Find yourself a mechanic who actually finds issues! Not one just looking for a paycheck by throwing parts at your car to see what fixes it.
I once had a lot of warning lights all come on at once in my brand new car and it was the alternator not providing enough power. When the sensors did not get enough power they by default send an error code. It was up and running normally after the replacement alternator was installed. Also, did you switch the exhaust back to factory and see if that helps?
I'd say its heat soak into some cables increasing their resistance and catching out the sensitive can bus. Move the sensor wires of the most common fault to a cooler location or increase the thickness of the wires.
Nico Leonard Uncut Great Video I'm glad you drove your Absolutely Gorgeous 812 GTS despite all the issues and I think you should have the Battery and Alternator check because you might have fried em when you did those donuts and I think you should get a 458 Speciale or Speciale Aperta
What would kick in when you drive slow ? Diff would lock , could be the trigger to load the circuit. Could be other stuff that start monitoring, like the parking sensor that loads . Best regards
On my (sadly stolen) AMG, the multitude of (400+) errors I was seeing was caused by a short to ground on a wire from the ECU to the aux water pump. Others have seen the same issue due to various signals shorted to ground on other AMG's (at a guess, shorting a section of the CAN bus). My suspicion is the harder ride of these cars is tougher on the sheathing of the loom and, where there's inadequate protection, it gets worn away by the chassis.
I feel for you nico, that is your DREAM car & it just refuses to play ball, I recon if you stir enough at ferrari dealership, maybe throw the old exhaust back on & become enough of a problem child, they may try help you fix it!
May I recommend a 992 GT3? Sounds great, handles incredible and works. Got mine a year ago. Done 13k kms in it. (We had a coffee in ground in puerto banus a couple of years ago, hope you’re well)
Ask your garage to check the alternator output - especially when the engine is hot. The symptoms your car is showing have all the hallmarks of a voltage drop. Sometimes alternator output cables can breakdown under high temps, the same can go for earth cables on the cars electrical systems. At my garage we often see electrical gremlins like this due to voltage drops, the cars electrical system only has to drop half a volt and the ECU will think everything is knackered. A diagnostic scan will show what error codes have been stored in the cars ECU and body control module, I bet that there will be numerous voltage drop faults shown. Hope this helps, ps keep up the great video content 👍
Have your alternator checked out, you may have damaged the voltage regulator when you were bouncing it off the rev limiter. Mind you it would come up with an overcharge code, may have spiked and damaged something...
Nico,i think you have problem with alternator or a crappy battery which they installed in your car.Check voltage while car is working and when its turned off.Try to install another battery also.Warning lights come out because of low voltage in the system.
It definately looks like a low voltage issue. it can be caused by a multitude of things, bad ground or wiring, alternator or power drain. Even a low battery could have the same effect. You need someone to go through the harness and identify where this is coming from.
Summat has to be pestering the body control module to bring all that on. Is there wiring for exhaust flaps that close them at low speed. There's crossed can lines somewhere to bring all that but posi to grd somewhere
Feel your pain Nico and well done for persevering with the car. Check whether Ferrari will re-instate your warranty if you return it to std spec, if so, get the original exhaust on & get them to fix it and then you will know if it is a Ferrari issue or a Novitec one ? Novitec really should help you more !
It’s still the same battery related issue, on the Giulia is was the battery control module and some crap software for yours it could be a phantom power draw or the BCM possibly even worst case the alternator but I doubt that last one otherwise it would be failing to start. If you can keep it on a trickle charger, even after it’s all fixed just to keep that battery in good health
I have an Audi with similar issues and I suspect that during Covid, many car manufacturers used alternative microchips to their normal ones to keep production running. I suspect that it’s a software issue that a different chip is being used to the standard and for this reason, random errors that come and go. Can you push to swap out the ECU?? Source: I work in the industry.
I can't be sure but it's possible the alternator is having issues when hot & at low rpm, as you say it only happens in stop start traffic (heat soak will be at it's worst & rpm at it's lowest) . It seems to be a Ferrari low voltage condition triggering all the warnings except the parking sensor warning (that one I believe is a real fault). The alternator may have been tested but if not checked when the faults is evident it could test o.k & slip under the radar.
Definitely be checking for a bad connection or failure in the parking sensors, being the only constant fault, do any of the parking sensors actually work? If yes walk close around it and see if one doesnt set off the proximity alert
May need to remove the exhaust you installed and go back to the factory. At low km/hr your system is not burning off the excess fuel and its hitting the sensors. Once your driving faster it consumes the gasses in the system.. good luck and be safe
Get a new altinator let it check for some voltage drain. Seems like the voltage drops slightly too low for the many ECU's comfort and throws all kinds of faults. When driving on the motorway the revs stay high and it will charge enough. When longer in traffic ... low revs, less charging. Less charging and sh#t battery = problems,
It’s refreshing to know I’m not the only one that races the sat a Nav and also says a prayer to my mechatronichs unit before I set off the Christmas dashboard disco. Every bing usually =2k
Hi Nico, I think the issue is the location of battery. I am led to believe that the battery is located near the exhaust manifold on the 812 super fast. I think the issue you are having is that the battery itself is getting too hot.. possibly more so due to the novitec. The first battery probably fried inside and this battery malfunctions when it's getting hot ? Thoughts? I think this is your problem! Maybe try using a heat prevention sheet around the battery ?
Since it goes crazy when you're stuck in traffic, do you have the Start & Stop system turned off? The Start & Stop system can be unnecessarily more demanding on the battery. Then it's nothing uncommon for all the electronics to go mental when the battery isn't happy.
See if you can measure the voltage at the battery while driving and note the voltage when the gremlins start. If not try a new alternator and the battery again (Without the Hors on it this time).
Niko look into the lemon law. I know for cars here in Canada and US if the car has so many issues and it can't be fixed, the manufacturer needs to either refund your purchase or give you a new vehicle.
That's true but he can return it to stock and if the problem persists it shows it's actually the manufacturer's responsibility not the modifications. From what I know all it was a exhaust pipe down to it.
If I ever get rich bud, You're guaranteed my business for a watch, you got DDE to thank for that, But most of all your addictive and eclectic attitude and epic ride along reactions, lmao. Much love brother, glad to see you doing good. Congrats on quitting smoking for a month, don't give up!.
Revert to stock, get an aftermarket muffler if you want a louder exhaust and leave it alone. Some cars just don't like mods. Even if other peoples same model car has the same mods, occasionally theres always one car out of the bunch that will never take to being modified. Leave the catalytic converter, engine tune and original components alone. You do that and the car will be fine. Wheels and cosmetics are fine. But some cars just can't handle engine and excessive exhaust modifications without serious problems. Saw it all the time. Had to revert the cars to normal, scan and read the module errors, reset them all and re-teach most of them to get the faults out of the system. It's more than likely that one of the mods is interfering with the CAN bus communication between the modules and it's messing with the car. (Adding: seen some people mention battery voltage affecting the CAN bus. Maybe but the integrated voltage regulation system can usually pick up small fluctuations and will throw a code when the tech looks at it with a scanner. Not saying it's not but it's probably just part of the problem being caused by one of the mods.)
We had the same problem with our gtc4 lusso, it turned out to be a short in the backseat usb phone charger. 1 smal electrical problem fucks up the whole car.😅
Yep! GT3 and save the fancy for the watches. GT3 Bulletproof - hammer them on the track, still drive home in comfort. A friend has an 812….regular charging issues …beautiful cars mind..
Could always, wait for christmas lights, then put a voltmeter to battery to make sure you see 14volts. A Tarpped wire or bad earthing, making battery drop in voltage which then produces flashing lights lol. ?
Wouldn’t be surprised if it has dodgy earth/negative strap. Battery connection, or earth strap to body is loose. Only way I can understand all the randomness
Hopefully the issues with the car turn out to be minor and have thus far been overlooked and they get sorted soon. Though in the long run I suspect that the sentimentality you have for the car will be what costs you the most because you aren't seeing the forest for the trees.
Battery again surely!! My bicycle light went dim, changed the baterries, (3 x aa for those wondering), my light is brighter than your christmas tree dashboard now. I feel so fortunate, dare i even say, blessed!! I love my life.
Personally I would do what I can to get rid of that car and start a fresh with a car that’s not a bag of problems your content is amazing mate all the best 🏴👍
Nico you're missing the reference 5020 in the history of the perpetual calendar chronographs - the cushion TV shape reference which is arguably the rarest of them all.
You need to security door on that shop. It's for the taking off the street, hidden in a hotel open door , the watches all out, Mulple exits and fire doors. Take it from someone who knows these people well.
Not the same league obvs, but I have a Skoda Enyaq VRs which has now twice had a systems failure on me meaning that none of the feature, including the headlights, worked. I can no longer trust this car and am trading it in which is a shame as I have enjoyed driving it. But you need a car you can rely on
Nico, why not an Aston Martin? Vantage is a great choice, you could do an awesome build and thats different from other channels, also a great Gumball car for sure, people always go for Huracan, Mclarens, Modern Ferraris like 488 etc etc, personal opinion only 😅 Love from Portugal mate!
mhhhh could it be a bad temp or oil presure sensor OR IS A 02 sensor leaving the building as trac is related on toyota to a bad 02 sensor but a 02 failing on a car this young is very rare on normal cars
Those van where great for stopping with the gears 4 gear down to 2 gear Back wheel used to lock up And slow you down pretty fast. I wonder how many military van clutch plates I reduce the life of back in 1988. 😊
Hahaha I loved mine! True that, lock them up and they just took it. Sliding door open in the three days of Summer. Got mine from a Post Office auction when they sold a load off. Proper reliable thing. Had many a good time in that old van!! ♥
After viewing your videos related to your beautiful Ferrari 812. I have a question which I hope I believe is the answer. When you drove it before doing the exhaust and tune you never had an issue. Am o correct to believe this. If your issues started after modifying the car I am leading to what may be a simple fix. The problem is finding it. I believe your have a loose ground wire somewhere in the engine bay. The wore is not disconnected it is not completely tight which when you care at low speeds the car bumps amd twists allowing this one ground wire to ever slight loose contact to the ground post attaches to the car. Hope this can point you in the them direction for your team to trace the problem. From experience with my own vehicle one ground wire which is not fully tight can cause many different trouble codes. Best of luck. From Canada
Nice video, and very honest. I wish you had a more appropriate customer service approach from the brand. Ferrari will never fix the issues with your car sorry for the harsh truth. Production errors have been made on you car that translate in software warnings and issues. All the warnings you get are linked to different hardware components of the car wish are all electronically linked. Replacing and or resetting/ programming software components will not fix all the issues for a long period of ownership. Finding and fixing those production errors will cost as much as a new car. Ferrari should at least install free of charges a digital blood pressure monitor 🙂
Nico violated the warranty with aftermarket parts and now Ferrari won't uave anything to do with it, they did agree if he removed all he aftermarket parts they would reinstate the warranty, but he's stubborn
