@@NightShiftScaleModels I have really hard water. So hard in fact that you get limestone rims on anything that the water sits on. So distilled water works a treat for mixing paint. Much better than tap water.
Captain_badland it looks like mainly mr cement s with superglue for small and non plastic parts and also ca glue for non plastic parts. He sometimes will use many others from Tamiya and more brands
I love when when you upload, even though I'm not going to be painting my models anytime soon, it's nice to watch and learn how to paint them, it's also really interesting to watch, keep it up! :)
I have never seen a military crate (and I was in the US Army fro many years) without extensive stenciled printing, describing the contents of the box. I use dry transfers. It's a great detail and adds a lot to the look.
Very true. I wanted to try adding a few inscriptions with black paint and a paintbrush, but the results would probably be... variable to say the least. Any recommendations for a good dry transfer set?
Who says that they are definitely military crates though..? OK, military issue crates do have more data stamps on them than a pizza box - YES, BUT if the crew 'liberated' a blue oil can from a farm or garage, maybe they liberated some boxes of tempting civilian 'stuff' also..?
@@NightShiftScaleModels Verlinden used to offersets of dry-transfer stencils for US Vehicles. The text is so small that it's unreadable, but it looks good; so it works for any Latin-based language. On vehicles or boxes. They can still be found on eBay. I built up a stash... Archer has some, too.
Correct. Some places actually add things like floride, minimal amounts of chlorine and calcium. Chlorine if the amount is great enough will discolor paint even when the paint is dry. Just like chlorine in the water is the reason you are supposed to use distilled water to top up lead acid batteries and radiators because it also pitts metals.
so regular tap water can be perfectly fine or pretty much useless depending on where you live. similar to how I advised to add liquid soap if you want to dilute Tamiya paints with tap water, and many people told me they never experienced the same problems I did.
Chemist here: Besides being free from minerals that also means it is neutral in polarity, which means that pigments wont cling to one another due to static charge. That's what the pros say too. That said, I've never been able to tell the diffrence.
Watched the channel to pick up weathering techniques for gunpla and found the channel itself and the techniques so interesting that it's forced me to buy a tank model to try them on lol
I think all such modellers make a very serious mistake in weathering. These tanks are brand new! They are months old. Yet they get covered in decades worth of rust. Completely unrealistic. I think because they have lost perspective, these vehicles are brand new!
Looking NOICE! One thing I love when painting wood, is to get all the shading and washes down over the base colour and then - right at the end - paint some tiny fresh scratches with pure Iraqi Sand, as if some 'ape' has dragged and bashed and bumped the boxes when loading them. Not only does the contrast really make the previous stages pop, but it gives a bit more back-story to the boxes... as if they got dirty, worn and then were handled and chipped, cracked or dented more recently as well.
Why are historical model painters so uptight? It feels like you're stressed about their comments, seeing you constantly excuse yourself whenever you might take some artistic licenses. Man, you enjoy your modelling, the results are awesome, and let those bastards cry about it. No wonder tanks and planes modelling is fading out, and other parts of the hobby like gunpla are exploding in popularity.
It's simply because I like to study historical photos to accompany my builds, and even though a ton of stuff is well documented, a few things can remain sort of in the dark. In that case it can be any option - in this case painted or unpainted tools, and I always like to mention and possibly create a discussion around that specific subject.
@@NightShiftScaleModels Your model, no need to justify techniques. This hobby is interpreted many different ways and you will never be able to please everyone! 😁
@@NightShiftScaleModels I know, and it's cool that you're getting so deep into it. Don't get me wrong, i appreciate it. But i see a lot of stressing over accuracy in the historical builders community, and it's not the fun kind. Feels like everyone is walking on egg shells cause one of the German scarfs forgotten on some bench in the back of a plane, had 3 tinny stripes instead of 4.
The cooling grid on the engine bay may look a bit flat, even with the dark tones you used to paint on it. I thought of cutting small groves in the grid "holes" with hobby blade, and filling them with a darker tone might give the illusion of some space under it. It might not be possible with the paint coat already on, but just to now if feasible. And great vid or course ! Eager to see the finished tank !
I have to tell you that I was getting a little twitchy at how monochrome the tank was- even given the tonal variations between the various surfaces it looked like it had been carved out of sand at a beach (by very dedicated, very talented kids). ;>) You sure fixed that this time around. The relatively bright blue oil can is a perfect touch.
I believe that in many areas 'tap water' includes various impurities, calcium, iron, etc. Especially if you're water comes directly from a well. All of those particles could effect you paint...
Just thought id drop in a reason for why weld beads dont corode, (they do just differently) the reason lies in the type of weld, all these welds were done with a stick welder, which uses a rod coated in a material that, when heated up in the welding process, forms something that is effectively glass, this is done to protect the weld from oxygen as it cools to prevent porosity (the weld being shitty), this glass is then broken off with a hammer and scrapped away, however, a very thin layer remains on the surface of the weld, and this protects it from oxygen and water, so it corodes slower over all, there are other reasons, most to do with the type of metal used in welding filaments, both then and today, but thats the rough spark notes and what I was taught when I was younger, hope that helps, or was at least interesting. keep up the great work Martin. ~Jay
I love watching these for the cool looking techniques and painting style. Personally I paint Warhammer 40k models but I prefer doing them in this more "realistic" look, probably never gonna happen but I'd love to see Uncle Night Shift do something like a Death Guard Plagueburst Crawler but treating it like it was a REAL tank! He'd be able to have fun showing off all the weathering, rusting, grime and all those other fun mucky techniques of his with something like that! :D
Uncle nighshift, you can make a wet pallet very easily by getting a flat container. put some paper towel on the bottom and wet it. next get some parchment paper and lay it over top of the wet paper towel. it works great!!!! keeps my acrylics going for a very long time.
I had a ghetto wet palette like that in the past :) Unfortunately it wasn't very practical, too big and thus I didn't use it very often. The one I mentioned in this video already arrived and it's very neat! It's sitting right on top of the metal palette right now, always at hand.
hey, uncle night shift! I need your help on weathering my Jagdtiger H. can you tell me a good method to weather spare track on the superstructure? I really need your help.
Hey Night Shift. I'm loving your content and I wonder if you'll do a video for getting into model building and painting? Just outlining where to begin, what materials you think are necessary, what models are good to start with and where to expand from?
It looks really good! Just one suggestion for improvement in the future: stowage needs to be tied down. Those tarps should have ropes or straps over the top to hold them down.
Stowage does a lot to make a model look unique. I'm glad to see you are finally dabbling in a little stowage action. Great video as usual, looking forward to the next!
He keeps calling this Olive Drab and it might be the lighting, but this tank looks tan... Like modern desert tan. I think he went too far diluting down the green.
Well my intent was to create a faded and light colored Olive Drab, but I most likely went too far this time. It was pointed out in the previous video as well, so I'll be more careful next time. On the other hand, at least in my book, a model that's too bright is still more presentable than a very dark one.
@@NightShiftScaleModels I actually regretted posting that because I realized you hadn't done the weathering yet and maybe that might darken or green it up a bit more, making it look more olive.
Tap water is fine for diluting paint you're currently using but may have microscopic particles but some people like to pre dilute their paint in the bottle. If you do that you should use distilled water because tap water has a habit of making your paint reek over long periods of time.
They're much easier to use for sure, and I used them on the T-90 and KV-220 to quickly add lights and shadows on tarps and sandbags, however I found it very hard to paint small details with them. Diluted acrylics seem better in this regard, but at the end of the day both mediums have their pros and cons.
I always enjoy your video. The concrete texture is very nice. I also think storage painting looks like figure painting, especially using highlight and shadow.
You would want to use distilled water to make sure there's no other minerals or chemicals in your water. Like if you have hard water, or chlorine added to the tap water. It maaaaay effect your paints, though I don't think it would be all that likely to have an effect. But, if you want the peace of mind, not using tap water rules that out when something doesn't cure or blend as you would expect it to.
Me how mostly paints warhammer and other wargaming models: Uncle nigthsift: you cant blend with acryllic paints Me who does his blends only with acryllics: the fuck?????
The reason for distilled water is that some people have trouble with "hard" water. Or, in other words, water that has excess minerals etc. in it. That type of water can cause clouding or worse; can change the hue of the paint. If you don't have that issue, tap water is fine. If you are a purist, distilled water isn't all that expensive. Good job on the tools.
Looking great! But the brush, the horrible brush :-D And some wargamers use thinner instead of water couse water changes paint properties... or such... :-)
Hey Uncle! Love your videos. Really useful. I am 40k wargamer but always try to paint my minis in more "realistic" way. One thing that would be super useful if you could tackle one day: painting black vehicle (tank especially) with some chipping and weathering. I know there is not many exaples of that out there in the nature, but I would love to see how military scale modeller approaches that topic.
Martin... Wet palette: get a shallow lidded box like a candy box. Plastic or such. A layer of kitchen towel paper or a kitchen sponge. Wet it. Add pergamin paper. Wet palette. Also add a copper or brass rod to keep the mold away. Also with acrylic paints check out wet blending. Miniac, Squidmar and Trovarion have great vids on wet blends. :) love this tank of yours. I'd love to see you try your hand on an M60 Patton or the newest Abrams :)
Love your videos. (You're the only person I hit like on every video) I would love to see your take on a Bandai AT-ST. Sure it's not a tank, but it technically is armor. Could be a nice change/challenge up for you. Just a thought. Plus I'd like to see where your creativeness would take it.
A satisfying watch... though the lack of bloopers is much lamented :-( . Detailing remains an area that I've got miles to go on, thus this was especially useful :-) .
Actually you can do your tools both ways. Factory fresh the pioneer tools would have been in their natural colors. When you see them in OD it is usually from a field repaint, at which time the crew or maintenance personnel just sprayed the entire works
Hey Martin, looks great. A dark purple is a good shadow color, But I have done acrylic paint on canvas, where you learn how mix colors. Watch some painters how-to's That how I mix paints, I guess what I am saying is try using more , basic colors, on your wet pallet. Jesus Saves Dave
Wargame painter, here, common order of operations when painting (well, much of anything but especially) cloth and other drape-y materials- - Darkest color as an undercoat, your deepest shadows and darkest desires tend to show through multiple layers of acrylic, even if it's subtle. - slowly build up layers, lightening things and covering a little less surface each time, to make your gradients. Dry-brushing isn't required, but damn does it help. - your second-to-final color is usually a very thin dry-brush of what will probably be what prints as the tarp/cape/flag's color in people's minds, because it simulates where the light is hitting the most: flat spots, major raised areas, and so on. - last but not least, something significantly brighter than that, on edges, any sharp corners, and sometimes (if you want it to look satin-y or the like) in streaks to simulate added, intense reflections of the light. Most of us are typically going for something with a sort of comic-book look for our miniatures, looking less like a photograph and more like we could imagine Judge Dredd punching a dude next to the model and it not looking too terribly out of place.
I've never seen tap water be a problem when painting with acrylics, but then I've only been using them for about 40 years. 8-) The biggest thing to watch out for with acrylics is adding too much water, because that can interfere with the polymerization of the acrylic monomers. If you need lots of thinning, consider using an acrylic fluid medium (matte or gloss, depending on your other preferences) or airbrush medium instead of some of the water. Also, while commercial wet palettes are convenient, they don't work all that much better than a plate with paper towels and some baking parchment.
Hi Night Shift. I’m applying the graphite technique and wondered if you clear coat afterwards to fix it. It seems to go dull after a while. I want to keep the shine so don’t want to Matt coat it. Thanks for your inspirational videos. Big fan! Ps after watching you cut insulation foam with a circular saw I now know you’re human. Bless
Just got back off holiday to find a load of RU-vid videos from my favorite subscriptions waiting for me to watch. I left the best til last and have just watched uncle Night Shift tarting up this Sherman in such a realistic way. Great videos as always! Luvit!
