My Jeep WJ Walkaround | The Right Way to Build a WJ 

They really are. The 2.7 diesel crd engine is nuke proof!!!

www.youtube.com/@Jeepfeenz

97 zj here. I'm mid-manual-swap and i agree. The project is almost as fun as the ride.

Hey really cool can you give me some advice I have 2002 limited with your same setup and I want to make it look half as cool as yours my Jesus Jeep and I have a lot of work to do and I think your jeep is really cool

Question I'm thinking of doing a 4" lift on my 1999 jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo it has the quad track 2 and I have heard that it's not a good idea to lift that specific system any ideas?

Keep your notifications on. I have something coming you'll probably wanna see before buying!

The second half of the video explains the details of the suspension. This is a 3 link so there is only 1 upper link. Works the same as a 4 link but packaging constraints doesn't allow room for a 4th without further modification.

If you look behind the grille, there is a trans cooler back there. Have never rebuilt it. And thanks!

Unfortunately only specific tires come in the right load ranges. A majority of these are LT tires. I’ve ran a couple different LT tires over the years and had pretty good luck with some of them. It just means a lower psi to get the proper sidewall flex. These also resist sidewall punctures a lot better.

@@engineeringoverland I get that you need WAY lower psi to get the same flexion but not only is the 'quality' of the flex not as good but by the time you're that low the chance of losing your bead goes way up. I think you'd be fine with P tires.

Definitely would not recommended going down to a standard passenger tire. Those are not going to be built with the proper reinforcement for off-road at all. You will be asking for punctures. I personally wouldn’t go lower than a D rated tire on this Jeep. Some lighter Jeeps may be able to do C, but your sidewalls will continue to get thinner and thinner. I have never once lost a bead, even running down to single digits.

Thank you! Bumper is from D Till Fabworks

@Rust-Oleum hammered black

-6

Once I get around to swapping them, reach out to me.

Thanks! Pretty cool lights, regardless. Either way, big upgrade compared to my old OEM's.

Russian market is an ass

To order a set of shock absorbers you need a sprung mass of 1 ton. when there is a lift for one ton, then 500 kg will work with a good safety margin. my jeep weighs 2550 kg and my sprung weight is 500 front and 500 rear with a safari differential y 61

Sorry I missed this! Tried to make sure I covered everything, but there was a lot I wanted to go over and ended up forgetting some things here and there. I suggest checking out some of my other videos. For starters, I know for a fact I show it in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_AJ9rpj7ndw.html

Nope, neither one.

You're right, there is no right way to build a WJ... But it got you to comment on the video ;) To clarify your other claims, my money only went to the important stuff, it's not, and thats okay (don't need to explain the drivetrain again)

@brandonmorris3483 have you personally seen a varilock get toasted because of bigger tires? I'm just wondering because that seems to be the internet consensus but how much of it is true?

@@MyBacktrail yes. It’s too much weight to turn. It starts slipping and it toasts the clutch packs. It’ll work for awhile. It’s just a matter of time before it stops working. It’s not serviceable either. So, it’s wasted.

@@brandonmorris3483 When it goes, there's the option of putting in a TrueTrac with non-Varilock axles. I have this setup on 33s in my WJ Overland. I'm curious to know if a TrueTrac would handle 35s better than the stock Varilock.

@@Jckerwin not sure. You had to change your carrier as well, correct?

Okay Devin. Not sure how you came to this conclusion lol.

You would be surprised what these can do. There are a few small details I did not get to in the video, like extending and/or relocating breather hoses, but there is a simple solution to a lot of these things that don't always require buying more parts. Not everyone will have the same experiences as me, depending on condition of your parts/jeep initially, but this at least shows you how I made it work and I think my videos prove it works quite well. And everyone has their own preferences, but in my opinion, I will always make other adjustments before hacking up the body. Stretching the wheel base is often overlooked and what I will always recommend first. My whole drivetrain still works super well. I am happy to be a guinea pig to push this setup and see what it can do and keep showing you guys there's more than one way to build your jeep.

Unfortunately, I don't remember the exact total length of the control arms. I set my wheelbase back when installing the lift, then later on did an additional 1" of stretch to clear the 35's.

Gracias

I've already trimmed the stock rear bumper to fit the 35's. I will continue pushing the axles out as I go bigger and will make more room at that time. For now, the hitch provides my recovery point and some protection. Will likely make something in the future.

Stretching can hurt turning though and in tight offroad courses like we have up here in the northeast especially it can kill capability don't get me wrong you definitely have to stretch these jeeps to fit big tires but if you trim too you won't lose as much capability

You're definitely right that increasing the wheelbase will slightly increase the turning radius, but personally don't think you're going to see that much of a difference and that is the least of my worries. The improved approach and departure angles outweigh the slight loss of turning radius in my opinion. But if your trails are so tight that this little bit matters, then I completely understand you gotta do what you can.

@@engineeringoverlandI saw that but I'm talking about the metal... just never looks right, one exception might be the notch fender flares on a ZJ... those stock rear bumpers don't do much...

Agreed

This is what we call an "instagram build"

Thanks!!

Thank you!

Yeah its an aftermarket hitch. It was installed before I bought it. Not sure why it didn't come with the factory hitch but it is what it is. I've grown to like it as it acts like a skid plate in the back. Yup, simply adjusting all of the control arms an equal amount will move your axle without changing your pinion angle or anything. If you do this, just make sure to double check things like driveshaft engagement and steering clearances.

Thanks! Some exciting stuff in the works as we speak.

Glad this video could be helpful! My setup has worked extremely well

My only personal experience for WJ kits is IRO since that is what I’m running. Ultimately it’s hard to answer this question without asking yourself what your end goal is with the Jeep. There’s a lot of factors to consider when deciding where to put your money on a build.

This kit is a bit over $3000. But, that being said, you can do it cheaper.

I considered all of the different options. Quality, performance, and cost were what I considered. I did not want a radius arm setup, so that already ruled out a couple. I've seen people beat on the IRO kit with rigs much bigger than mine. Ultimately, the cost for what you get is why I chose IRO. The front 3 link has been great for me.

Just realized it said dickens. That was a typo. AWESOME*

I’m sorry I missed this detail! You’re not the first one to want to see this. I may end up doing a follow up on this video and discussing more details I left out before.

@@engineeringoverland Sounds good man that'd be great. Locking forward to it

03-04. Trim kind of depends on what you want to do with it long term. Overland made the most sense for me.

Look for a 99-01 V8 with the selec-trac. Quadradrive is full time 4wd. Selec-trac is 2wd and you out it into 4wd. It’s what I have and it’s a unicorn.

Stock. Shouldn't ever use a dropped pitman arm.

@@engineeringoverlandcan you explain why that is?

Dropped pitman arms are almost always weaker and more prone to breaking. Correcting steering angles is better accomplished by changing the mounting point on the opposite end (at the knuckle). Also keep in mind, any change in angle with the drag link must have an equal change with the track bar.

Anzo USA

Swap the tcase with a select trac

Dude why does IRO cost so damn much

@@matthew7972 Because they have quality stuff and awesome customer service staff that are there when you need them. They sell you everything you need for the build, no need to buy more stuff to make a mod work, if you buy the complete kits.

@@matthew7972 Because you get what you pay for.

Think I'll paint the rest of the Jeep chrome to match

Check out my more recent videos

Why would he need a winch for pavement and a gravel road from time to time? Definitely doesn't take it anywhere it might need one.