nobody will see this but this did work well, used super fine steel wool and some magic erasers, about 8 of the long guns were sitting half way underwater for about 6 days :(
Dumb question, how do I know if there is a clear coat or lacquer I inherited ww1 shotgun that was in closet for 50+ years, I put tung oil but kinda looks patchy now. I don't want to completely refinish just make sure wood is OK. Thanks
Mark from Anvil gunsmithing will actually use very fine steel wool and soapy water to remove the grime from stocks. He claims it won't take off any finish that's not actually dirt. For a full refurbishment, he uses a solvents like acetone or brakleen in lieu of water to remove all oils from the wood fibers. Then he heavily coats a red and dark stain mix finished off with a couple coats of generic Danish oil.
Good ol' soap and water is hard to beat. I think it just depends on the type of soap, some that are more like detergents can strip the oil out of the wood.
Thanks for the tip! My ex-wife left the Box of those sponges under my kitchen sink. I'll be trying them out on some of my soiled stocks. Thanks again. Great show!
Good stuff. Great idea. Will be giving it a go real soon - cabin fever + internet auctions = many new additions to the collection!! Maybe too many 🤔 When it comes to the conservation of these old specimen, less is always preferred. Slow and minimal is my approach. Gotta sneak up on it. These pads are definitely “sneaky”. Thanks again. Stay strong
I think this stuff is basically an abrasive impregnated into a disintegrating foam. If you look at tests of it done on car paint, good high quality photos show scratches just like sandpaper would leave. Scrub too hard on a mark on your wall at home and your paint goes bye bye, especially if you wet it. It kinds of melts your paint and blends the stain. I think 0000 steel wool and mild soapy water would be a good thing to always try first, and if that can't do it then maybe work your way to this. That's just me, not dissing anyone or telling them what to do.
Water is one of the most useful solvents out there. This product works well. It will take off the oxidized oil finish. Next to none of which is original now days. Clean em up apply another layer of oil and save them for the next generation.
Try 0000 Steelwool dip in hot soapy water and rub. Do not apply pressure, you do not want the wool to cut. As long as you do not press the finish should remain in tact. Recently used this method on 7.65arg.
Man do you use brichwood gunstock tru-oil ive got a bottle from us i used it on my bayonet grips and it was magic awsome shiny after few layers-u can use much less Plz comment
P.S. im a bit jealous of your guns! lol i only have two milsurps and am already kind of old to catch up to you guys? hehehe plus my wife dosnt like my hobby! LOL So i gotta stash my allowence each week! LOL Or get in a tiff with her to just get the cash out of the bank! LOL not!!
I feel like others ,its a great idea but i am strill wondring if while rubbing it with that some what abrasive pad with water? Will that wood soak up any of that water and could it cause a slow decline in the wood? I was thinking to do the same thing with some kind of ,yes gun oil? Some kind of really lite clear oil that will also preserve the wood without any color change? And if not oil, maybe something else besides water? But i have two mil-surps, one a family heirloom and the other a Caracno 91/24 i just got in less then a week ago. Its got a couple of bad areas around the hand holds where the stock is actually blackened. The rest of the stock has a nice look to it and great stripes. I purchased one of the rifles stored in Europe rather then Ethiopia, hehe Not that theres anything wrong with those, if you pay for a hand select. But RTI's hand select prices are outrageous! Classic's is 30bucks and other places are all 50bucks or less and in some cases less then 30bucks! So you have to pay the extra at RTI or roll the dice as there are plenty of good and bad reviews! LOL great video and idea bro! Thanks!
I've always used 0000 steel wool and a little bit of mineral oil or motor oil. Takes off paint, gunk, dirt, grease, etc. also leaves the wood looking "healthy". Just don't use too much and wipe it down with a rag afterwards to remove any excess oil. You don't want it to saturate the wood too much.
Mark Novak uses a piece of metal that is sort of flattened on both sides that he uses to scrape gunk off. Not really abrasive but a mild one is ok. I use scotch bright and ballistol
I worry about built up oil on the inside of my milsurp rifle near the trigger assembly, the part were there's no finish whatsoever, do you know if this method would damage the wood in any way?🤔
Awesome, I'll use this method on my next mil surp purchase, I generally I do a pretty deep cleaning if its so dirty it looks like its been buried in the mud with a dead body for decades, but on good condition rifles I'll use this to do a light cleaning.
That’s so sweet... good info!!! Like you said in my mind I thought you needed either a special cleaner or something harsh acetone, oven cleaner, Etc... I’ve got a few dozen mil surp rifles I can try it on. Wait a minute! On second thought ! ur a jerk. Now I don’t have an excuse not to clean all those rifles. Lol. Damn it. Ha!
I've bought rifles where the stock was black with grease and oil. Some dings and dents. I steamed the oil and grease out and the dings and dents swelled up and disappeared. Dried it out, light sanding and oiled it. Looked like new
Why would you ruin a piece of history that saw both sides of a world wide conflict? That same mentality is why Russian captures have gone from 400 to now 1k all day. Cleaning is one thing but completely restoring a gun that doesn’t need restored is blasphemy. That’s fine though keep cleaning them up and please by all means continue to sand of all the shellac. Mine will continue to climb in value.
@@MilsurpWorld I bought a carcano from Axis that is pretty dirty and you can tell a big difference where I used the magic eraser. Thanks for the tip and love the show.
Love this channel. I am using boiled linseed oil on my stock as a finish but it takes a long long time to dry. Is there something else that I can use? Please make a video on finishes to use.
On a similar note I have been putting Old English brand “Lemon Oil” on my M48 about twice a year and am not sure if it does anything long term or protective. I’m not sure how dark boiled linseed oil would make the stock as it is a nice light brown color. I have never used boiled linseed oil before.
Go to Stumpy Nubs woodworking videos. Look at his playlist on varnish(es). He states raw linseed oil dries faster than boiled linseed oil. I just watched a video of a guy finishing a model 1903 Lee Enfield using it. I'll backtrack and find it for you. Someone there mentioned this channel! Found it: Tudenom Channel, "Recondition the oil finish on your milsurp rifle." He's not an expert but he advises checking with experts as he goes along. It's a good place to start for ideas anyway.
use just linseed oil to really soak into the stock , not boiled linseed oil . in the olden days they used to heat the oil to 140f and soak the stock in it for 15 mins . if you cut that wood in half you'd see just how deep it penetrates it's the best Ive ever seen . I use boiled on my m91/30 mosin and sks . it's still a nice oil to use . or tung oil . but as soon as you shoot it enough it sweats something fierce and I gotta wipe it down . its probably more cosmoline leaking out than anything because it's darker than the BLO I put on it
Someone told me to use lighter fluid on a q-tip to remove paint transfer on a stock where it maybe scraped up against a wall. Haven't tried it yet so...
What kind of oil do you use on your stock after you clean them with the magic eraser? I have a Romanian dong set I'd like to clean up and re apply something to protect it if necessary
