Another great educational video! I knew as soon as you mentioned the metal detector where it was gonna wind up! I love the shout-out to Nathan, he is such a great guy! I think you handled losing a new blade to those nails a lot better than I will. You know how desperately I am looking forward to the drying information, can't wait! Say hey to Chip and Martha for me, and thanks again!
You crack me up - love watching your videos. I use that exact same troubleshooting method, and my wife just shakes her head lol. I don't do a lot of work for other folks (paying customers), but when I do agree to do a job, i always ask where the tree was on the property - best if I can go look at it myself. The customer is always annoyed when I see evidence that there was a fence in line with the tree (or if the tree was anywhere near a house) and either refuse to mill it or tell them there will be an extra $XX charge for every non-wood item I encounter. It just ceases to be fun when you hit a nail. And I'm way too old to not have fun milling. Great advice re toe board. I use a scissor jack and tape measure. It works, but hydraulics would be so nice. Sigh.
Again, thank you greatly. You highlighted a universal spit and cuss issue with no seeming solution - unknown metal eager to eat blades. I've been trying to convince myself to get one not knowing if they're worth it. Watching you wrestle with the issue kinda makes me feel there is no help. The only wiggle room I have is I rarely resaw old lumber and a detector might actually work, maybe? Anyway. Love watching and listening to your experiences with wood species issues. I doubt that any of your teachings are written down somewhere. My gratitude, Professor.
Metal detectors are designed to work through dirt, so when you start checking logs, all the settings and stuff are way off. Then, they will only work about 6" in the wood, so if metal's deeper than that, you'll still hit it. I've tried quite a few, from top of the line to cheap garbage, and they all about work the same...poorly. There is no metal detector than a saw blade!
I loved that specialized fork-lift takedown method on that "POS" Metal Detector. This allowed for ease of full exposure of all the important components, which facilitated a rapid diagnosis of said problem(s) and repair of said problem(s). All this is great verbiage for the Insurance Company's claim report. But we all know that you just throw that "POS" in the trash. Greetings from Mobile, AL.
I thought charcuterie was made up to until I got stationed up here is Canada. In the French grocery stores there is a a high sign over the deli counter “Charcuterie” haha
I saw a fair amount of recycled timber & am paranoid about pulling every single nail. I use cheap chisels rather than screwdrivers. Wish we had the timber resources here in the UK you have in the US, as hardwood's insanely expensive here. Last time I 'troubleshot' something electronic, it was a high end Epson printer. Started with a meat cleaver & finished with 1¼oz of #6 from around three feet. 😁
Cheap metal detectors. I saw that coming. I like you repair technique. Cleavor! I knew I should have been an engineer because thats usually my repair technique.
Robert, I would like to know the approximate diameter and length of that walnut log and about how much you paid. Reason for asking is: I’m about to pay to have 2 yard walnut trees cut down and delivered. The home owner wants to get rid of them and both are 32 inches diameter with about an 8 to 9 foot butt log. A number of the branches are usable as well. ( I know, all yard trees have metal…I’ll be careful!). I haven’t got a firm estimate yet, but it should be worthwhile.
I pay Doyle own everything, I pay yard log prices in half to 2/3rds so a $5 per bdft walnut log would be about $2 if I could not see any evidence of metal. The log in the video was probably a $4 per bdft log.
I thought that was going to be the end result . I use a cheap coil type detector , If I think logs may have metal . It does help not to detect near the mill .
It's matter of pride that anyone can do if their mill is tuned up and cutting straight and flat. I initially saw the boards to 1-1/8" thick, then kiln dry and shrink them to 1-1/16" and I only have to take a 1/16" off each face to basically get a fully planed board, both faces, at a final sellable 15/16" thick. I even had a buddy who said it couldn't be done, and before long, he was doing it also. Anyone can do it if they try to get things dialed in. Thats a good topic for a video.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama thanks for the feedback, I was milling at 1 1/16 think i might try 11/8 , thank you for answering questions, and not just posting a video,
Thats a great topic for a video. The short answer is no, we don't, unless they are free and delivered here. Wind shake is a huge problem, and most storm damaged trees have it to one extent to the other. Also, we have had issues with people bringing stuff too short, to hollow, too "well it looked pretty to me." After awhile, I calculated I only had a 20% success rate for making high grade lumber out of storm damaged or wind soaked trees, so we just stopped, for the most part.
