3:13 Instead of throwing away the graphite powder, I keep it in a small jar. It's perfect to make really smooth and even values with coton or paper stumps on a graphite drawing. I love doing this since I've discovered Dallas Rayburn's artwork. Try this technique if you haven't already, I find it as relaxing as drawing with dip pens.
Hi, I really enjoy your video. I watched two for now and intend to watch them all. I am doing arts since years with color and I always said "no way I'll go to Black and ink"... ah ah well here I am now into it so much. Thank you I will learn a lot from you I am sure.
I would love to learn more about your portable adjustable drawing board and what you have learned about ergonomics for best heights for sitting and standing drawing.
Hi! I'm still experimenting with best angles. But generally keep the angel upright for pencil drawing, and nearly flat for inking. I do change the desk height from sit to stand throughout the day. You can browse through my tools and other articles on my blog: longstrideillustration.com/tools/
They're known as clutch pencils here in the UK, and leadholders in North America, I think. My dad was an engineering draughtsman from the clutch pencil and ruling pen era, and he had nothing but disdain for the technical pens and thin lead mechanical pencils which supplanted them because they took the finesse out of getting the right line width. Standard drawing office practice was to shape the lead to a chisel point on sandpaper away from the drawing board to avoid contamination.
I actually have come to appreciate BluTack instead of the standard rubber kneaded eraser. If you're not familiar with it, it's meant to be used as a removable adhesive for attaching paper to walls, etc. It does a better job of lifting areas of graphite than a kneaded eraser; at least, that's been my experience. I used them side by side for a while, and then one day I realized I was reaching for the Blu Tack instead of the kneaded eraser almost exclusively. I enjoy your videos, and although I have worked with pen and ink in the past, I moved over to graphite drawing. But your videos have me thinking seriously of picking up a pen again. Thanks for your excellent help!
Thanks for sharing that tip about the BluTack... does it work well on Bristol paper? No sticky residue? I'll have to try it! Glad that you're enjoying the videos Kathleen, and thinking about picking up a pen again 🙂
@@GodzillaGoesGaga I've never had a problem with it, and I've been using it almost that long. But I never leave it on the paper for more time than it takes to erase. Possibly some types of paper are more prone to these issues. Always test everything on scrap paper before using on an actual drawing you want to keep. And there are lots of copycat products, too. I always use the genuine Blu Tack, but others may react differently. But we all have our personal preferences. Whatever works, right?
Hey, Chloe! Researching tools & supplies for Inktober, since I'm unfamiliar. You just made me a Steadtler fan. Thank you especially for the many previously unknown useful details all over these tools. Wow! 🎨
it's funny because some of these same staedtler tools, I bought them over 20 years ago and I never understood how to use them (even the sharpener)... I also bought light blue lead because I was told a scanner won't pick it up after inking... but the lead was SO HARD it was uncomfortable to draw with. I also started studying graphic design at the time, so I ended up focusing on learning digital tools like using a wacom tablet, then an iPad.. maybe I just never got the hang of it, but I never felt satisfied by it. It's nice to pull the lead holder out of my drawer and give it another go. I always preferred 2B lead though 🤔 I got to order some
BTW, please ask Speedball for a nib holder that has a screw clamp style. This could be some form of fitting that would clamp the nib over the 4 inner prongs for example. Think of an Exacto knife but for nibs! Also, you just wasted a load of graphite powder in the garbage can. Save it for toning etc. ;-).
Great idea about the screw clamp - I'll pass it on. As for the graphite powder - it's not something that I would use for my art however good to know and thanks for sharing your tips!
It's good to see another Staedtler fan like myself. Too bad I can't find their ink where I live anymore. Kudos on your Speedball partnership, by the way
Can you recommend a graphite sharpener that will fit larger lead/clutch holders? I have the Staedtler Mars Rotary sharpener and love it. But I have other clutch holders that I use for softer graphite and have been using the small cap sharpeners for them because they won't fit in the Staedtler.
WARNING: The stick erasers from Staedtler have ink printed on the sides of the eraser and it comes off on the page. Solution: Remove the eraser and clean it off with sandpaper or alcohol. I use sandpaper to make damn sure!! Staedtler: If you’re reading this, please solve this issue. Just print on the top end of the eraser! To be specific this is on the Staedtler Mars Plastic 528 eraser. Not sure if the replacement sticks have the same issue but the default erasers have the ink on. Pentel stick erasers don't have this issue.
Good to know, thanks for sharing. I checked and the replacement erasers also have the ink printed on them - though I've yet to have an issue with it rubbing onto my art.
I get into paper reviews in my dip pen course and a bit in this blog post: longstrideillustration.com/a-beginners-guide-to-dip-pens-for-drawing/. I'll do a more in-depth paper review in a future post. Also check out JetPen's blog
Hi! I've been watching your videos for a while now and everytime I learn so much! I do not consider myself as a beginner artist so this surprises me in a really good way! I feel I can see my tools in a different light thanks to your very analytic reviews and how-to videos. Thank you!
You are so welcome! Funny that you say "analytic" as that sums up my approach to most things in life. I ran a poll on Instagram recently asking: "Your creativity comes from A) the head, or B) the heart?" And it came out to 78% heart and 22% head. I'm in the 22%. 😄
I see! Well, my heart must be tired of fuelling creativity, because now I thrive under specific constraints. Also, my head feels lighter as I know where I am going. Your explanations definitely have a calming effect on any future steps I may take. 😁 Continue the good work!
the prong pen holders, theres a right way and wrong way to use them. ... trouble is i forget which is which because its one of my least used. speedball maker another holder, very similar in size to the cylinder type, that holds the just as tiny mapping slips like a william mitchell 0565. i believe vintage holders will also prefer to hold these european pens, i have run across a few that were too big for the zebra holder. for the 102 type some look like knitting needles. i am unsure if the bend in them is natural or a result of the previous owners strangle grip.
I use Speedball Super Black India Ink for drawing with dip pens on bristol smooth paper. If you're thinking of using ink for writing or using mixed media on various types of paper (I've not tested music paper so I can't really advise), then have a read at this article: www.jetpens.com/blog/The-Best-Drawing-Inks/pt/784
good video. 1) I'm not a fan of those staedtler long skinny erasers. the form factor is fine but the quality of the eraser itself is bottom tier. Highly recommend finding better erasers if you spend a lot of time on graphite - for me the Factis Soft Oval OV-12 is 1000x better eraser for large areas and is super affordable - you can even cut them into smaller pieces if you need more precise work, and for very precise work I choose the tombow mono zero eraser which is more money but very precise. 2) Just getting started with ink nibs - is something like a tachikawa T-40 ok? seems better designed for the hand but maybe not compatible with all nibs? 3) I can't get good sharpening out of my drum eraser for 2mm leads. I find it breaks leads more often than not. I like the Mitsubishi DPS6001P 2mm sharpener in terms of its ability to sharpen without damaging lead, but its lid doesn't stay on very well so empty it often. You say you use bristol smooth for your finished work - what do you use for practice?
1) I agree, the quality of the eraser could be improved, though is acceptable for penciling with hard leads - which is my preference for ink application using dip pens. 2) The T-40 holder is compatible with Japanese nibs and most Western-style nibs except for the 102 crowquill. 3) I sharpen often, like, after 10 strokes with the lead because I like a sharp point. 4) for practice I use either a bristol vellum (because it's good with a brush and mix-media), a moleskine art sketchbook, or whatever sketchpad I have on hand. It depends whether I'm using liquid ink or just fineliner pens. The Moleskine has the best quality overall, delightful results regardless of the medium used and is handy for travel.
