I like the Fang www.thingiverse.com/thing:2748641 seems to give more even cooling (doesn't need more air) Might need to remix it a touch for your hot end.
You might like my version of the Bowden clips; they provide a way to clip in an additional wire, like for example the cable on an EZABL bed leveling sensor. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3153183
Hey! You're welcome! You can check out the links in the video description for Amazon pricing. The capricorn tubing is around $15, I think. The extruder is about $35. The peopoly build surface is $8. The hotend is just under $65. Again, you might want to check out the links in the description for the latest pricing. Best, Anthony
I tried different build surfaces and only one was flawless - a sheet of PEI with the 3M adhesive thermal tape. Threw a high voltage mosfet (its huge) and changed the cabling out to the heat bed (requires soldering) with high current subwoofer cable - getting a lot higher current now to the bed. 115c is possible now. Using marlin 1.1.8 and holding off on 1.1.9 for a while. I got the micro swiss all metal and its a DREAM. The microswiss nozzle though, is, I hate to say s__t. I was getting between .45 & .5 extrusion form it. The cheap brass ones on amazon were much closer to.4 (got like 10 nozzles for $10). Vibration dampners are a MUST! Dampners on the feet also are a huge benefit - print these in PETG and your set. All aluminum extruder upgrade parts kit (amazon) was a huge benefit ($20). Its not the teeth on the extruder thats your problem, its the weak spring that was supplied which SHOULD have been adjustable and had a tighter grip. I got some extruder brass ends and the teeth were all the same, the tensioner on the spring was the key. The spool holder is an absolute joke on the CR-10S, ive had the computer fall over so many times with heavy filament. Yet the cables to the printer from the computer were so short I had a hard time flipping the spool holder around without the spool hitting the printer (they were short). Thought about gutting the computer box and having a custom layout for it. I also upgraded the fans in the box (not buying stupid noctuas) I had a box of cooler master berring fans and their working. Although I did cave and put a noctua on the hot-end cooling fan since it was freaking LOUD with the stock fan. A hot end internal DUCT is a must so you dont have it blowing air down on your print when not needed (eg. ABS! Nylon!) use PETG for this... One part that dosent exist that I feel would be nice is a teflon tube for the spool holder. or a sleeve to put over the existing one. After going through about 20 rolls of filament the holders tube is getting a bit worn down and has a lot more drag - maybe silicone spray but thats a mess... I wanna cram a 32 bit board like a smoothie into this box... That would be sweet. EDIT: Almost forgot - I over-volted the PSU. Running about 13.6v - this stabilized the motors (less harmonic vibrations) and gave the bed a nice boost. 0-60c in no time now. DO NOT EXCEED 14v though, the main board wasent rated for anything higher. The PSU (when bed, motors and nozzle were on) had some VDROOP and it started dipping into the 10v range which caused some shuddering from the motors after running for hours.
NICE! You've given that machine some TLC. I'm about to put a bltouch on mine but might look into snagging/printing some of the vibration dampeners you mentioned. Thanks for sharing!
Sorry but for seemecnc extruder do you change steps per mm ? Because they said that " Remember to modify steps per mm if you are using this in a non-seemecnc 3D printer!"
I just got my first ever 3d printer and I chose the cr10s and loved it so much I bought another one and want to try some of your upgrades as soon as I have the time. Great video and I'm looking forward to seeing more and learning more. Thanks for sharing and as always Keep Building👍
Hello, I have a Creality CR-10S Printer that I can't get to print. The z Axis goes up and down when homing but won't When Printing. It just stays on the first layer. Is this a printer problem or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?
Hey there! It's possible that it could be the current running to the stepper motor or something in Cura is misconfigured. I found this issue on a forum that seems to be similar to what you're experiencing. Maybe there's something in here that could help! reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,649535
Haha. I'll say thank you and sorry at the same time. It was my first "handheld" video and was largely a test to see how it compared to a tripod setup. You're not the only person who has made that comment so I've definitely learned my lesson :)
I have a new CR10 v2, and card reader is horrible. If i Press the card hard enough and hold it pressed, it will read the card, and if i let the pressure off, the card is not readable! bad first time experience.
you were saying you wanted to put the spool holder on top. I took the extra tnuts that came with my cr 10 and used it to attach it to the top rail. I had to drill the holes on the bracket slightly to get the screws to work but i love having it on the top.
I think the spring tension is more of an issue than the drive gear teeth on these Creality extruders... Assuming that they're the same style that I tested, they do grip fairly well. www.instructables.com/id/Extruder-Drive-Gear-Shootout/
Either I'm lucky as hell (which I highly doubt) or me keeping my original CR10 95% mod free is living proof that sometimes leaving well enough alone works best. I say that because I belong to a few 3D print chat groups on FaceBook and I see posts all the time how people changed this on their printer and now they're having problems. They changed that on their printers and now they're having problems. Meanwhile, here I've been printing problem free for almost a year with my CR10. The only mods I have done is upgrading the bowden tube to a Capricorn tube, aluminum extruder and I installed some vertical braces on the front to make sure my Z axis is perfectly square. Other than that, my printer is 100% stock and its been working perfectly. I think sometimes people do more harm than good by attempting to make their printers better but in turn they're actually making things worse by not leaving well enough alone. Just my opinion...
I love this and you bring up a really great point. I'll admit that each time something was added to the printer that impacted the filament "path", there was a fair amount of fine-tuning and tweaking that had to be done (estep calibration, slicer tweaking, etc). There are definitely some simple mods that I encourage people to print (bed adjustment knobs, bowden clips, etc). Any time you modify a 3D printer, you're using that printer in a way that the manufacturer didn't design it to be used, so there's definitely some headache that can come along with it.
You mention a 0.6mm nozzle, but the Amazon link is to a 0.4mm nozzle hotend. Is there something I'm missing? Do I need to buy a 0.6mm nozzle separately?
Oh geez. You're absolutely right and that was my mistake. I just ran down and checked the packaging and it looks like it was purchased separately. I corrected my video description. Here is the link to the nozzle I have. Sorry about that! amzn.to/3euKd6s
Can't get mine to do a consistent print the bed leveling is a major issue one tweak on one corner throws the whole build plate off but definitely gonna try these upgrades to try and see if it works better
Tnk u . Tnk s for mods . I manage to do almost perfect prints with my cr 10 s in 2 days . U right. Bed is not perfect flat ... I taped under glass 2 layers of paper and is ok now . I m proud is a nice 3d printer , my first one . And to make perfect prints after only 2 days ...bltw i will make this a upgrades with time . Tnk s again . P.s . For prints to stick ... first layer guys : temp of bed 90 , pla 220, first layer low speed and 0.1 mm , and in place of glass , I use IKEA mirror, 4 piece 7 euro (30x30) . With mirrors, u can use first layer bed at 60 , and 0.15 , 0 2 works perfect to.
Great video! I was wondering if you experienced any issues with the capricorn tubing? I installed one on my cr10s and immediately experienced some underextrusion. Did you have to adjust your retraction settings? And if so, how? Thanks :)
Thanks! I have cap tubes on 2 of my printers and haven't had any issues. One thing you might want to double check is the cut angle on the tube. Bowden tubes need to be cut as close to a right angle as possible to ensure a proper fit against the heat break. You could also check to see if there is a clog that is preventing the tubing from going in all the way. That would cause under-extrusion. I had an issue with my CR10s when I first got it that took forever to figure out. The pneumatic coupling that the tube slips into had worn out and was letting the tube back out during retractions. I had a big ball of plastic that was preventing the bowden tube from seating properly. I'd take a peak into the hotend to check for that. It's a known problem with those creality hot ends. My Ender 2 has the same issue periodically.
@@AnthonyTackett i did notice the fittings letting the tube move a bit. I ordered and installed new ones from captubes with hopes of resolving the issue. Though now i'm having thermal runaway issues so a new thermistor will be installed today. Hopefully most of my issues will be resolved this week.
Hey Karl. No it is not. It is single drive. The tensioning on this is pretty unique and much more powerful than the stock extruder. I don’t think you can go wrong with a Bondtech, though.
I purchased the extruder on your list for my Cr-10s, but the gripper that came with it is a bit too small to fit on the motor shaft. Did you have issues with that, and did you just have to use the original filament gripper?
Ah I forgot to bring this up in the video. I’m using the gear that came with the extruder but do remember having to muscle it onto the shaft. I tapped it on with a block of wood, if I recall correctly.
Good question. I lent the printer to a buddy that is printing PPE for doctors. I had a BL Touch that I was going to install to get auto mesh bed leveling. He has installed and loves that. He put a dampener on the x-axis stepper motor and said that really cut down on noise. The only other thing he's done is print a bullseye fan duct to get more even part cooling. It seems to be doing well for him! He sends me photos and videos of it pretty regularly.
Oh no! That's supposed to be a BuildTak-esque material. Hmm... Have you cleaned it really well with isopropyl alcohol? You also made the right call with Magigoo. That stuff is incredible.
@@AnthonyTackett Yeah, it's advertised as the miracle build plate, things should just stick (and pop off when it cools), you shouldn't even have to clean it that well. Well, for me it sure doesn't work like that, I have to use the Magigoo or similar. Yes, I've cleaned it with IPA which almost seems to make things worse. I have no clue why it isn't working for me.
Don't hold the camera and do extreme close ups. Nobody wants to be involuntarily inside your "bubble" throughout a video. I liked the content but, man, was I way too close to your face for comfort.
Nice. I had a piece of borosilicate on another printer for the longest time. It shattered into a million pieces when I tried to man handle it while swapping out a print service. What a mess.
Hmm... I think there could be several things at play. If it were my machine, I'd check to make sure everything is plugged in properly and also that the cables at the back of the bed aren't broken. If it is a CR-10 and not the S model, it might not have proper strain relief at the back of the bed. There should be a plastic piece that the cables run through at the back of the bed. If there is a short in the wiring, you'll need to replace or repair them.
Oh and also make sure your machine is properly configured in your slicer. I believe you have to tell the slicer that your machine has a heated bed in the configuration.
Great video and the vlog style worked well. I liked and subscribed. I have a CR10s also for a few months now. Curious as to why you went with the larger diameter hot end. Any issues with staying with standard size?
Thanks for the kind words and the sub! I have two smaller printers and thought it would be nice to bring larger, more rigid parts on this so that’s the main reason for the larger hot end. I had some under extrusion issues prior but I think that was caused by the stock gear slipping. I’m tempted to go even larger, honestly. I kind of like the wider extrusion and the gain I can get in printing times by printing thicker lines.
Thanks for the quick reply. Overall with some minor tweaks (leveling knobs) and some patience leveling my print bed my printer has been printing quite well. Although I am sure plenty of room for improvement and will most likely follow suit with your upgrades. I am curious to see how a larger hot end would work for me to as you have some great points. Pretty straight forward swap out? Was it easy to calibrate your extruded after the change? Thanks again.
Changing out for the Micro Swiss hot end is as easy as unscrewing the old one and screwing the new one on in its place. Any time you mess with the “resistance” of the filament flow, you should calibrate your e-steps just to be safe. There are great videos out there on how to do that. I always reference Joe Terranella’s videos on stuff like that. He’s a dear friend and is very knowledgeable on stuff like this.
No problem! I got my firmware files from Printed Solid. I'm currently running Marlin 1.1.6 but plan to update to 1.1.9 soon. Here is a link for that, since it's newer. www.printedsolid.com/blogs/news/installing-marlin-1-1-9-on-your-cr-10s-with-mesh-bed-leveling-thermal-protection-better-menu-layout-and-finally-power-resume
I do have a few. I don't have any "pre" upgrade prints handy right now, though. I'm going to be installing a auto bed leveling sensor soon and will film that. I can showcase a few prints then. Good idea!
I put a bondtech extruder, bought a e3dv6, with capricorn tubing and bltouch. Going to also add buildtak flex plate system and e3d x nozzle when that comes out. I also added vibration dampeners.
Niiice! I have a BLTouch for it now but haven't installed it. I think I'm going to try and film that process when I do. A flex plate system sounds incredible, too. I'll look into those vibration dampeners. Thanks!
@@michaelfuentes2171 Ah you're exactly right. I guess I have two types on there. Here is a link to the one on the extruder. I'll update the description with this one as well. www.thingiverse.com/thing:936611
@@AnthonyTackett lets me ask you something (even with my poor english) ....there is any manual or list describing the differences between the upgrades? I bought a CR-10S a 3, 4 months ago but i dont know the real improve to upgrade the firmware in this kind of machine...
I've had mine for just over a year. I'm getting awesome prints and I haven't upgraded anything. I like the bigger wheels for leveling but I rarely even level. It stays level 95% of the time. Don't even remember the last time I leveled it. Should I just for soemthing to break? Lol not sure I even want to try the bowden. I don't want a small change to cause another issue. Suprised you needed all that. I use tape on my bed. Used to use glue on the glass but tape works fine. Do you put anything on the poly?
Hey. I wouldn't mess with anything if you're happy with it! Sounds like its working out well for you. I have another prusa-style machine that I had already upgraded the tubing on (and saw improvements) so that was a logical upgrade here. The peopoly build surface works great and is extremely durable. I DO add a glaze of Magigoo or glue stick for prints with a larger footprint. They will tend to lift up a bit if I don't. My other printer has a GeckoTek build surface on it and it's absolutely incredible. I plan to swap out the sheet on the CR10s for one of those at some point. Thanks for the comment!
Hey there. It SHOULD work just fine, as I believe the extruder is mostly the same on both models. This mounts directly to she stepper motor so you should be able to unbolt the old and then put on the new without issue. You’ll probably need to recalibrate your e-steps since I believe the gear is a different diameter so it will feed at a different rate.
Horrible printer. Not worth the money. I've been printing with this device over 2 months. Always a problem. Screws gets loosen during long prints. Heating bed problems. You need to adjust this before the prints and after. One project Ive printed 4 days of non stop print, nozzle part (bottom wheel screw) readjusted due to vibration and damaged the project. there's many other problems. So those guys who say such nice thing about this is because they get free parts and even printers from the company.
Wow. That's quite an assumption you're making. None of this was provided to me by any company. Creality hasn't even shown interest in supporting my channel in this way. I AM sorry about your bad luck with the printer, but you can't expect everyone to have the same issues you've had. I also can't expect everyone to have the same positive experience I've had. Quality control is a known issue with Creality machines.
