Third test of the MY1020 motor to gather some comparison data. This is a "Hold on to your Hat" test, the motor is wired direct (no speed controller) just the battery pack, a beefy switch & the motor.
Excellent DIY information. First thought that came to me was...nice warp drive for "fight or flight" situation. Its one thing to read about higher amps....but to actually see it...outside of welding something...whew!
99 AMPS wow, how much faster did it feel vs 30? 3x harder acceleration or was a lot of this heat? Makes me terrified at how many amps some of the scary switch only motors I play with must pull.
I need a bldc motor to run between 30 to 3000 rpm with a load of 40 kgs for 30 min on low and 15 min on high rpm! can I use these types of bike motors without gear reduction? Do I need to use a dual motor for my needs?
Hey there i have a super turbo electric scooter 1000w 48v n wanted to swap to a 1600w motor but not sure the size difference I want to fit on my scooter
Just get a higher wattage controller and watch motor temps but should be fine if both are rated at same voltage. I run a 1500watt controller on a 1000 watt motor and get 29mph and not had any heat issues yet but summer is almost here lll
Start-up torque is higher and he had it against the wall which provided constant resistance therefore the motor kept drawing more current to deal with that resistance. Once he was moving on the road the current draw starts high but drops as he accelerates thats becuase the motor is under minimal resistance at its max rpm therefore the motor draws sufficient power to maintain that rpm. If he was to encounter a steep hill even at top speed the increased resistance will force the motor to add more torque to get up the hill thus drawing more current.
Probably not. Most electronic throttles are powered by 5V, which is provided by the speed controller & then, it sends a 0V - 5V signal back to the SC (as per the throttle position) that tells it what you want the motor to do.
The batteries are 12V 12AH SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) from Mighty Max Batteries (~$25.00 each) www.ebay.com/itm/Mighty-Max-12V-12AH-SLA-Battery-Replacement-for-Altronix-AL1012ULACM-2-Pack/192856363918?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D40719%26meid%3Da2668f7bb4e941a69ca0cf19e71d811f%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D382838652284%26itm%3D192856363918%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
if your gonna do it like that you should get a dpdt switch and start off with 24v then when you get going use switch to change to 48 volts. It won't be so hard on the motor, gears, or the chain.
@@blackz06 yeah I know it won't be quite as fun but atleast it will last a little longer, maybe after replacing a couple chains and sprokets then do it, should be old by then.
This is the type of meter that I used. It can handle/monitor up to 300V & 500Awww.ebay.com/itm/New-DC-300V-10A-500A-Dual-LED-Digital-Volt-Amp-Voltage-Power-Meter-/264106729212?var=&hash=item3d7dfcdefcHere is more info on this meter: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WMmLiqFFuUg.html
@@williamhopkins145 The circuit breaker (or fuse) is to be safer, as a short circuit can literally blow off the batteries, melt cables and do other nasty stuff. The motor draws a insane current at start-up, because the car have a lot of inertia and the motor itself, a simple solution to that (instead using a PWM controler), is to press the switch multiples times at the start until the car gets some speed, this act like a manual PWM. Using this technique, you'll get a lower current draw in start, less stress on the batteries and more milleage. I know this because i'm building a bike with an 12V starter motor, the motor itself is a beast! but can draw 300A at start-up, which is to much for any ordinary cable to handle, and even the motor can melt very easily!
@@williamhopkins145 Electroboom have a very good video about this topic, the problems involved and the solutions. The simplest solution to reduce the inrush current still turning the motor on and off as fast as you can at start-up! LOL ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yO9xIVv8ryc.html
Great video, I want to run a similar setup but with 72v 15Ah. I know my battery setup is ridiculous only pushing 1,080 watts. I Will be using a 4 speed gearbox to compensate for low amps and high volts. Therefore I should maximize the range of this little battery. I was wondering if I could get something like a 72v 35 amp variable resistor that'll go from the battery pack to the resistor then to the motor. Therefore giving me control on amp draw and voltage draw and eliminating the need for a expensive speed controller Thanks mate
Controllers are actually cheaper than motors and with that high of voltage your better off just getting a controller. Alfawheels on ebay has them pretty cheap, especially if u go brushed
@@Todd_G_FPV uhm I live in south africa bro controllers shipped from the US are almost 1000 dollars with cheap crap ones being 500 dollars so nope no controller for me. I found a alternative tho and it's a pwm rated at 60v 30 amps so I'll rearrange my battery setup for 60v 30 amps and that's an output of 1800w which should be okay considering it's to boost my 440cc engine. My bike should do about 150 mph then
@@str8xrippin if its a brushed motor just skip the pwm controller and run the battery how it is now just turn it on when your up to speed but ill be honest I don't think a 60v motor will get u going to 150 even with a internal combustion engine with it but if it does id like to see it!
@@Todd_G_FPV well now I'm looking at brushless bldc so that will definitely need a controller becuase of hall sensors. Idk man I'll see. Well I calculated the possible speed with the power to weight ratio of my setup and it gave me 150 mph. I know that's absurdly high speed but after working on aerodynamics and gear ratios it's surprisingly possible. So I want the electric motor to launch me really hard to 40 mph in a few seconds while I hear the internal combustion at a higher gear ratio so that it takes over after the electric motor is exhausted. I have built a few projects before and hit 60 plus mph with ease so I'm fairly confident. Well with everything said it is just some calculations on paper, in reality it might be a very different story. Thanks for the help mate
@@str8xrippin sounds like a fun plan! Not sure how its going to turn out but the build isn't in my head so I know nothing about it lol I am however curious as to why u want the electric to boost u to 40 then engine take over when you could just change up the engine a little bit gain some more acceleration. You would need a pretty high voltage setup to launch hard off the line or a low voltage and really high amp output but you also have to fine room for a big battery for it too
